natewalck

luckyluc.64

11-17-23 Updated information.Here, the old guy's solution to level the bed “Tramming”.  I jammed the table with an object under it and had it out of alignment.  The printer was still printing, but I could see the table going up and down as the head printed from the front to the back (Bed compensation). My old "See Me CNC" (old 3D printer) did have a cool G-code (M420) to map the table and see the result on the screen with a Z-offset.  I didn't figure out how to do the same on this printer, so I pulled out a 1" dial indicator (.001" resolution) and designed this thing.&nbsp;Here is where you can get a dial indicator (or information about it. Amazon have it under 15$ [WEN #10703 ASIN B0BFFW2335]<a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/WEN-10703-Precision-Indicator-Resolution/dp/B0BFFW2335/ref=sr_1_20?crid=313LWDGBOT500&keywords=dial%2Bindicator%2Bmetric%2B25mm&qid=1700221195&sprefix=dial%2Bindicator%2B25mm%2Caps%2C72&sr=8-20&th=1" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/WEN-10703-Precision-Indicator-Resolution/dp/B0BFFW2335/ref=sr_1_20?crid=313LWDGBOT500&keywords=dial%2Bindicator%2Bmetric%2B25mm&qid=1700221195&sprefix=dial%2Bindicator%2B25mm%2Caps%2C72&sr=8-20&th=1</a>I wish it to be metric, but you are looking to be zero side to side and front to back (in the middle), and Zero is the same with any unit. So you know .001" is 0.0254mm, a fine hair split in 4…It isn't pleasant looking, but it works.&nbsp;Operations:-“Home the Printer” First. (Press home on the screen). The nuzzle should be 10mm above the table.-With the "arrow", move the head to the center in the front of the table.-Install that rig, and you need to go “Z” up a few mm until you have a reading on the dial, one mm at a time.The dial and the rig should only be in contact with the rails, nothing else.-Turn the printer power off.-Proceeded to “Read” the middle in front and make the two sides the same +/-.0005" with the adjustment screws under the table. Move the head slowly and gently. Ensure not to “Hit” anything and keep a light down pressure on the rig to keep good contact with the rails.Mesure twice or 3 times before adjusting anything. Take your time. It's precision work.-Moved to the mid back and adjusted it to match the two other front corners. The same thing applies. Go back and forward 10 times before you adjust anything. Don't go more than .004"[0.10mm] at the time.-remove the rig, and power the printer.-A calibration of the printer is required.&nbsp;Voila, all under .001" [ 0.025mm]. Now everything is flat and square like new or better.Take your time and go point to point 10 times, adjusting no more than .004"[0.10mm] at the time. It should be less than half of a turn away. It could be more if you mess up your table badly like I did.&nbsp;I printed it in ABS and made it stiffer than it needed. The dial bore is 9.5mm (3/8"). I didn't use inserts or nuts. I tap it. The clamp screws are (2) M5 x 16, and the probe is M4 x 10. The screws are not necessary. The fit size to size is sufficient, but hey, that makes it more extraordinary looking. LOL&nbsp;PS:  I'm working on a Euro model but missing information about the available sizes.&nbsp;Enjoy…

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