n3ckarmann

Ciuf_Ciuf

One of the worst and most stressful things about using AMS is the amount of purged filament that gets wasted, without considering the additional time for each print. So, I decided to create this simple file without having to make any modifications to the gcode or anything else.The goal, therefore, is to minimize the amount of filament during each purge. The only necessary tool is a caliper, but you can also use a simple ruler.&nbsp;You start by setting all the purges to 50mm³<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:37.92%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/140491/2023-11-01_4aedbe6bc42f2.png"></figure>&nbsp;Once you've chosen which filament to calibrate, through the slicer, you set the correct sequence of chosen colors. A simple example is the photo below.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:38.77%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/140491/2023-11-01_47d1448e5d29e8.png"></figure>All that's left to do is start the print and wait.What you will see in front of you will be something like this.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:35%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/140491/2023-11-01_5c560b0fe3b9a8.jpg"></figure>At this point, our friend, the caliper or ruler (depending on how precise you want to be), comes into play. What you need to measure is the moment when the color you've chosen stops blending with the previous color and finally takes on its clean color.&nbsp;In this case, to transition from gray to blue, 48mm are needed.Now, using a simple formula, you can calculate the final value to input into the slicer. Each rectangle is exactly 100mm³. So, you need to multiply the measured value by 2 and add it to the 50mm³ set previously. Therefore:&nbsp;Vdef = (Vmeasured x 2) + 50 = (48 x 2) + 50 = 146&nbsp;Now, I will input 146mm³ to make the color change from gray to blue.&nbsp;This process should be performed for all color changes and all possible combinations. In case the first rectangle is not enough, the one below will complete the purge. Just keep in mind that in the formula, in addition to the 50, the value of the first rectangle, which is 100, should also be included.&nbsp;For example, as it happened to me for the change from black to gray, I measured the second rectangle, finding 13mm, and then I applied the formula again, adding the value of the first rectangle.&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:34.24%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/140491/2023-11-01_556a3a54f7ecd.jpg"></figure>So, the calculation would be:&nbsp;Vdef = (Vmeasured x 2) + 50 + 100 = (13 x 2) + 50 + 100 = 176&nbsp;Therefore, I would input 176mm³ to facilitate the color change from black to gray.&nbsp;Using this method allows you to significantly reduce the amount of purged filament without affecting the color you'll load afterward. In the photo below, you can see the amount of filament that has been purged using this technique.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:34.07%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/140491/2023-11-01_e44854969175d8.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;Comparing it with the slicer's automatic calculation, the difference is quite evident. This technique allows you to reduce purging by 30% or even less, depending on how precise your measurements are.&nbsp;BEFORE<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:35%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/140491/2023-11-01_aaffe4a2460af8.png"></figure>AFTER<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:35%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/140491/2023-11-01_45cf9e0401d838.png"></figure>&nbsp;I hope this simple idea can help you, as it helped me, to reduce the amount of filament wasted during color changes.Wishing everyone happy printing and lots of fun!&nbsp;&nbsp;

AMS Purge Calibration

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crua9

I made this model to be extremely easy to print and cheap to make. The plate that has the dog all together is meant for an example, but you can print that. Just note it will cost more to print that and you need to have your flush settings right.&nbsp;I worked very hard on this model because the original was extremely far from user friendly. To the point I made it from scratch.&nbsp;If you print it unassembled, what I did was print it with PLA and then use superglue. The type I used was the brush on type like <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0161S0T2I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0161S0T2I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1</a> What I was able to do is use one of the flames to hold the sign. But if it doesn&#39;t look right, I have made them where you it connects only to the base. It is just a little harder to glue it. Anyways, have fun with this and do whatever you want with this model. As mention I made everything, but this site treats it as a remix so the license has to be the same as what they think it came from.&nbsp;Another thing to note, the eyes are like they are because with a 0.4 nozzle I had problems with the color switching and white dots showing up on the black. At 0.2 this isn&#39;t a problem in my experience.

This is fine dog

Memes

K-Studio.ca

A tool to hold microfiber towel to clean build plates with ease.<ul><li>Print in PLA</li></ul><h4>Filament used in photo:</h4><ul><li>Bambu PLA Metal</li><li>Bambu PLA Matte</li></ul><h4>Updates </h4>March 23, 2024<ul><li>Added an alternative knob for thin cloth or sandpaper.</li><li>Original is designed to bottom out to prevent vertical force to break the print apart.</li></ul><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/754191/2024-03-23_13ab91d9f5c498.jpg"></figure><h4>Instruction</h4><ol><li>Simply take the two blocks align to the microfiber and cut to the same rectangle size.</li><li>Wrap the microfiber around the edge and crimp it down.</li></ol><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/754191/2024-03-23_6dbc3edb91bb7.jpg"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/754191/2024-03-21_757e6c3f7297d8.gif"></figure>

Build Plate Cleaner

Useful 3D-Printer Tools

jonthemiller

Edit 4/3/24: Removed experimental Pi3 sled models. If you need a Pi3 sled, go check out Bald Print&#39;s excellent remix for a tested Pi3 sled: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/411343" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/411343</a>&nbsp;Edit 3/20/24: fixed hole size for threaded insert sleds. Previously it had been 3.7mm, it is now 3.3mm.&nbsp;Edit 2/14/24: uploaded version of files that does not require heatset threaded inserts and uses same screws for top and securing sleds. Should only require socket head M4 screws for frame, and M2.5 to secure the Pis to the sleds.<h2>Raspberry Pi Mini Server Rack</h2>I made a mini server rack where each sled holds a single Raspberry Pi, for a total of 3. There are sleds already made for Pi4B and Pi5 where all front and side I/O is accessible. There is also a &#34;blank&#34; sled with no I/O cutouts, if needed to modify to fit your own needs. The model is parameterized, so if needing to have more or less sleds it can be customized to fit.  There are 2 versions uploaded - one that uses heatset threaded inserts (M4 &amp; M2.5) and one where the screws thread directly into the plastic. The threaded insert version will be more durable and be able to be reassembled more, however.  This is inspired by <a target="_blank" href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5237176" rel="nofollow noopener">this model from Thingiverse</a>. I needed it to support both Pi4 and 5, but the model only had a sled for Pi3 and threaded screws directly into the legs - which broke for me when assembled. So, I decided to make my own from scratch.<h3>Models</h3>There are 2 folders of files - “Heatset Inserts” and “No Heatset Inserts”. All models are named the same between the 2, only difference is the size of screw holes.<ul><li>rack_frame.stl - default frame that can hold up to 3 rpis</li><li>rack_top.stl - attaches to top of frame to stabilize the frame arms</li><li>pi4_sled.stl - sled for holding a rpi 4B</li><li>pi5_sled.stl - sled for holding a rpi 5</li><li>sled_lid.stl - lid that slides into slot on top of sled</li><li>blank_sled.stl - sled with no I/O port holes (included if you want to modify to fit your needs)</li><li>rack_frame_4_sleds.stl - frame that can hold up to 4 rpis</li><li>rack_frame_5_sleds.stl - frame that can hold up to 5 rpis</li><li>pi_mini_rack.step - STEP file if you want to modify and extend the design</li></ul><h3>Bill of Materials</h3>For the rack:<ul><li>(1x) rack_frame.stl</li><li>(1x) rack_top.stl</li><li>(4x) M4 heat set inserts (depending on models used)</li><li>(4x) M4 x 10mm screws</li></ul>For each sled:<ul><li>(1x) sled model of your choice</li><li>(1x) sled_lid.stl</li><li>(4x) M2.5 x 4mm heat set inserts (depending on models used)</li><li>(4x) M2.5 screws</li><li>(2x) M4 heat set inserts (depending on models used)</li><li>(2x) M4 x 10mm screws</li></ul><h3>Assembly</h3>These directions depict the heatset insert version.<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/810549/2024-02-11_92d4420f81c4f.jpg">For the rack, set the M4 inserts into the holes on the top of each leg, making sure they sit just below the top of the legs. The frame is reversible, so decide on which side you want to insert the sleds into and set the inserts into the holes you will use. Use the M4 screws to attach the top to the frame.&nbsp;For each sled, set the M2.5 inserts into the posts for the Pi. Set the Pi into the sled, making sure the USB &amp; ethernet ports are flush with the front of the sled. For the Pi4, I&#39;ve found it easiest to slightly bend the side outward to allow the 3.5mm port to go into the cutout with the USB/ethernet ports aligned. Use M2.5 screws to attach the Pi to the sled. Slide the lid in from the rear (its a dovetail joint and can be tight).<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/810549/2024-02-11_e9fb33a2a91e1.jpg"></figure>Align the slots in the frame with the guides at the bottom of the sled. Slide the sled into the rack and secure to the frame with an M4 screw on each side. Attach the needed I/O and power the sled up.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/810549/2024-02-18_caea7afbfae34.jpg"></figure>

Raspberry Pi 4 & 5 Mini Server Rack Case

DIY Stuff

Reuter_Corp.

<h2>Bambu Lab Edition of my Slide Boxe</h2>   <figure class="image image_resized" style="width:31.92%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/547303/2024-01-24_d874ddb3c8e68.gif"><figcaption> </figcaption></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:32.6%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/547303/2024-01-24_082a756b1a41d.jpg"><figcaption> </figcaption></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:32.58%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/547303/2024-01-24_fa4732955e8bb.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;The Outside parts will be glued together instructions will follow very soon it's very simple. <h4>!!watch out !! put the inlay tray befor glueing the last side, after assembling its no more possible to put the tray!!</h4> <h2>!!! Important befor assembling !!!</h2>  <figure class="image image_resized" style="width:41.94%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/547303/2024-01-24_632ad50697ef6.png"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:42.22%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/547303/2024-01-24_c25181d3bfd05.png"></figure> This is the scraper Tool that fits inside the box : <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/12702#profileId-12703" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/12702#profileId-12703</a><h3>Check out a few more of this Slide Boxes → <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/154335#profileId-168744" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/154335#profileId-168744</a></h3>&nbsp;&nbsp;This is no remix, some people might think i remixed those. No !!! It‘s my own design and got no template to create them. I can proof every single step in fusion360. There are similaryties , yes of course, but thats normal, but the build and the total modell is created diffrently.&nbsp;Thanks &nbsp;

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Art

Memes

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DIY Stuff

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