mystoopidstuff

These are the latest version (v 2.0) of my lidded Gridfiniy bins, with several improvements over the 1st version. These include the following improvements and new elements:<ul><li>Fully redesigned bins with a more efficient use of material</li><li>Slightly larger opening for the doors</li><li>New tab option for the sliding latches</li><li>New grid option to allow stacking 1x1 bins on the larger 2x and 3x bin models.</li><li>No supports needed (same as the v1.0 models)</li><li>Additional bin sizes added</li></ul>Included here are 2 sizes of Gridfinity bins with latching lids (in 3 heights):&nbsp;6U Bins:<ul><li>4x4 6U</li><li>4x5 6U</li></ul>9U Bins:<ul><li>4x4 9U</li><li>4x5 9U</li></ul>12U Bins:<ul><li>4x4 12U</li><li>4x5 12U</li></ul>&nbsp;There are 2 options for the lids, one is a plain lid, and the other has a grid, which allows proper stacking for 1x1 bins on top of these bins.Additionally, there are two latch designs included. One is a plain latch top, and the other has a flip up tab, which can help with opening the bins (see pics).<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000443705/design/2024-04-26_bpgw6wq0gjzq.jpg"></figure>This design requires the following hardware:&nbsp;(2) M3x6mm Button Head Cap Screws (BHCS) - or any M3x6 button head screws.&nbsp;If using the lids with the Grid pattern, the following additional hardware is needed:&nbsp;(4-6) M3x6 Flat Head Screws - M3x6 Button Head Cap Screws will also work.<h4>Printing tips:</h4>You can use the included 3MF which has all the models set up on 13 plates, with one multi-color option for the tabbed latches. If you set the files up in your chosen slicer, then I suggest using the following settings:<ul><li>Arachne wall generator</li><li>15% gyroid infill.</li><li>PLA for the bases and PETG for the LID, since it has an integrated spring.</li><li>I used a textured PEI plate, but if you plan to use P-Touch labels, a smooth plate may work better.</li></ul>&nbsp;If you print the lids with the grids (to allow stacking 1x1 bins), use the models which have “LID_GRID” in the names. For example, these are the models needed for the 3x3 bins:&nbsp;LIDDED_BINS-3F_4X5_LID_GRID_A.STLLIDDED_BINS-3F_4X5_LID_GRID_B.STL&nbsp;The lids with the grid patterns require the additional M3x6 flat head screws. A couple drops of superglue is also a good idea to bond the grids to the lids.&nbsp;If you print the tabbed latch tops, I recommend using PLA. You can use the following files:Single Color:&nbsp;LIDDED_BINS-3E_LATCH_TOP_BOTH.STL&nbsp;Multicolor (load both files together in the slicer to maintain their relationship and answer “yes” to load them as a single object):&nbsp;LIDDED_BINS-3E_LATCH_TOP_A.STLLIDDED_BINS-3E_LATCH_TOP_B.STL&nbsp;<h4>Assembly:</h4>Assembly tips can be found in “Step 6” at the link below:&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://www.mystoopidstuff.com/bambu-spares-box-build-guide.html" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.mystoopidstuff.com/bambu-spares-box-build-guide.html</a>&nbsp;The doors and hinges are designed so they will be easier to install if the hinges are pushed into place with the door almost closed.&nbsp;&nbsp;Update 5/10/2024: I noticed that the 4x5 Grid was offset by 0.55mm, so updated the following files for the lids (the lids are the only part that required an updated):&nbsp;LIDDED_BINS-4B_4X5_LID_GRID_A.stlLIDDED_BINS-4B_4X5_LID_REG.stl&nbsp;The 3MF was also updated with this change.&nbsp;Other stuff:&nbsp;If you need some bins for small parts, the following bins with covers are a good option to use with the Box For Stuff <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/710154-gridfinity-box-for-stuff-bfs-20-bin-version-20" rel="nofollow noopener">20 bin </a>and <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/719788-gridfinity-25-bin-box-for-stuff-version-20-unteste" rel="nofollow noopener">25 bin </a>cases (or other 6U tall cases):<ol><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/237116#profileId-253187" rel="nofollow noopener">1 compartment 2x1 (3U, 6U, 9U) bin with a magnet pickup tool</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/416342" rel="nofollow noopener">1x1, 1x2 (3 Compartment) and 1x4 (6Compartment) bins with lids (6U) - version 2.1</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/405008" rel="nofollow noopener">1x2, 1x3, 1x4 (6U, 9U and 12U) Lidded Bin for Stuff with Latch Version 2.0</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/405004" rel="nofollow noopener">2x2, 2x3, 2x4 (6U, 9U and 12U) Lidded Bin for Stuff with Latch Version 2.0</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/405013" rel="nofollow noopener">3x3, 3x4 (6U, 9U  and 12U) Lidded Bin for Stuff with Latch Version 2.0</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/443705" rel="nofollow noopener">4x4, 4x5 (6U, 9U and 12U) Lidded Bin for Stuff with Latch Version 2.0</a></li></ol>If you want to check out my other Gridfinity cases, you can find them at the links below:<ol><li>Gridfinity Box For Stuff <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/159840#profileId-266789" rel="nofollow noopener">20 bin (6U)</a></li><li>Gridfinity Box For Stuff <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/719788-gridfinity-25-bin-box-for-stuff-version-20-unteste" rel="nofollow noopener">25 bin (6U)</a> (max size for a Bambu X1C/P1S)</li><li>Gridfinity Box For Stuff <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/386034#profileId-286398" rel="nofollow noopener">16 bin (6U)</a> (Ender 3 size)</li><li>Gridfinity Box For Stuff <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/386041#profileId-286401" rel="nofollow noopener">16 bin - 12U deep version</a> (Ender 3 size)</li><li>Gridfinity Box For Stuff <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/389651" rel="nofollow noopener">2 bin (6U)</a> (small test version)</li></ol>&nbsp;If you find these models useful, please post a like or a comment with some pics of your prints.You can find the other things I&#39;m working on at my blog <a target="_blank" href="https://www.mystoopidstuff.com/blog" rel="nofollow noopener">here</a>. You can also follow me <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/@mystoopidstuff" rel="nofollow noopener">here </a>or on Printables to see what new stuff I post. If you would like to support my work, you can Buy Me A Coffee using this link:&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/mystoopidstuff" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.buymeacoffee.com/mystoopidstuff</a>&nbsp;Thanks for looking!&nbsp;&nbsp;

Gridfinity 4x (6U,9U &12U) Lidded Bins version 2.0

Gridfinity Stuff

DavidsGotWood

<h4>Updates</h4>23-03-04<ul><li>Radius measurement was incorrect due to incorrect application of the ‘decorative’ edge. Resulting in a 0.7mm radius measurement error. This has now been corrected.</li><li>Increased the size of text slightly on the joining ledge to enhance visibility.</li></ul><h4>About</h4>A compact (expanded) "coaster-sized” measurement gauge to determine the inner radius/diameter of a circle/corner/curve in millimetres, ranging from 22-40mm.Built to be fully compatible/connectable with the <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/324084-fillet-diameter-radius-gauge-workshop-coaster" rel="nofollow noopener">original fillet gauges</a> from <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/social/205548" rel="nofollow noopener">AMT</a>. As well as providing a larger radius size, the larger version also sports an improved connection method using ‘crush ribs’, more commonly used in injecting moulding to create perfect press-fit parts (this also reduces the likelihood of parts not fitting due to tolerance differences.For easier connecting, this model also indicates the joining ridge on how to fit the “embracing gauge” inside it.Stylistically, this part is based on the original “central gauge version 3” and “embracing gauge version 2” design.<h4>Printing</h4>Follow the instructions for the original design when printing this piece. For those with a printer with automatic colour changing and a slicer with “filament painting” available, it's very straightforward to paint the different filament colours for the recessed numbers/edges using a fill tool.<h4>Remixing</h4>This model can be remixed using the provided Onshape link or via your own tools using the provided Step file. <a target="_blank" href="https://cad.onshape.com/documents/22b3c0e77935b7e59fcd3174/w/c1e158bde0a676c86edd2a48/e/561213bc186375eb18f5395a?renderMode=0&uiState=6400f6414bd26030c58327e6" rel="nofollow noopener">Customize in Onshape</a><figure class="table"><table style="background-color:#40C8E818;border-color:#40C8E8;border-style:solid;"><tbody><tr><td style="border-color:#40C8E8;border-style:solid;">Note for Open Sourcing 3D Printed models:If providing 3D models under an Open licence, please be genuinely #OpenSource, release your source files with your STLs and make it easier for others to collaborate.</td></tr></tbody></table></figure>

Fillet diameter radius gauge | 22-40mm edition

Tools and Hardware

jponky

This is version 2 of the A1 Mini Accessories Toolbox Tray. It now holds space for 4 nozzles! I learnt how to use Fusion360 a little bit more and now the alignment for the nozzles should fit properly. I've had to get rid of the Bambu Lab logo but I think that's a good trade off. Just wanna say what a great printer the A1 Mini is, the speed and quality is so good that I've more time to spend on designing and printing things. This would've taken me a lot longer on my old printer. &nbsp;The changes include: <ul><li>Holds 4 nozzles instead of 3</li><li>Space for nozzle cleaner/unclogging tool</li><li>Space for spare cutters, nozzle wiper and a PTFE remover (which can be downloaded here <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/79328#profileId-83766" rel="nofollow noopener">PTFE Tube Remover V2.1 for the A1 Mini Remixed by R3DPanda - MakerWorld</a> - made my R3DPanda) </li><li>More finger space to pick up tools as some things were a little hard to remove.</li></ul>If uploading STL files, you need to select both files and load them as a single file. &nbsp;Thanks for the feedback everyone! Hope you like this version!&nbsp;Link for the Toolbox used in the photos:<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/65527#profileId-68895" rel="nofollow noopener">A1 Mini Tool Box - Multi Color by hfoster52 - MakerWorld</a> &nbsp;

V2 Accessories Tray for A1 Mini - 4 Nozzles

New Project Ideas

<h3>Bigger Halloween Bat (with STEP file)</h3>&nbsp;This is a quick remix of my Bat Bead (<a target="_blank" href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3188098" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3188098</a>), but scaled up 2x (so it's about 130mm across). I've included a version with a hole (1mm in diameter) so it can be hung from a string, and another version without the hole.The insert can be printed in a contrasting color to give the eyes and mouth some color.I have not tested this, so I will leave this as a work in progress, but it is pretty simple so I don't expect to to have problems. The insert is designed to be loose since the idea was to glue it in place (has 0.3mm clearance all around). I think it can be printed without supports, or at least with minimal supports.The STEP file is included for easy remixing.&nbsp;(imported from Printables)&nbsp;If you find these models useful, please post a like or a comment with some pics of your prints. You can find the other things I'm working on at my blog <a target="_blank" href="https://www.mystoopidstuff.com/blog" rel="nofollow noopener">here</a>.  You can also follow me <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/@mystoopidstuff" rel="nofollow noopener">here</a> or on <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@MyStoopidStuff" rel="nofollow noopener">Printables</a>, to see what new stuff I post.  If you would like to support my work, you can Buy Me A Coffee using this link:&nbsp;<h3><a target="_blank" href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/mystoopidstuff" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.buymeacoffee.com/mystoopidstuff</a></h3>Thanks for looking!

Bigger Halloween Bat (with STEP file)

Holidays and Stuff

This is an organizer for diabetes testing supplies, with removable bins for the consumables.  I have made efforts to make sure this model works well, and the family member who I gave it to, still uses it every day.  However, since this model is designed to hold diabetes testing supplies, I have to add that if you make or use this design, it is at your own risk.  &nbsp;It includes the following design elements:&nbsp;<ul><li>The front left compartment is designed to hold swabs (54x25mm). </li><li>The large compartment is intended for a meter (53x22mm) and the one in front (left) is for a box of testing strips (20x40mm). </li><li>There is also a long compartment which can be used for anything else (83x27mm). </li><li>All the compartments are approx 37mm deep. </li><li>Additionally there are three places for pens which are 21mm in diameter. </li><li>The pen holes can be customized using some inserts, and there are 3 different diameters provided to fit different pen sizes (16.6, 18.0 and 19.7mm). The pen inserts and box lids could also be used for color coding.</li><li>The boxes are designed to be removable so they can easily be refilled, dumped out, cleaned or replaced.</li></ul>&nbsp;I only had a couple meters, pens and other items to check dimensions on, so hopefully the compartments will be large enough for multiple types of equipment. &nbsp;The STEP file is also available here for easy remixing.&nbsp;The model is 206 x 94mm so it will fit on an X1C or P1P/P1S.&nbsp;To assemble the boxes you will need the following:<ul><li>4x M3 Brass inserts which are 4mm in diameter and 3mm long (upto 5mm may work, but will stick out a bit). -Now Optional - see note below</li><li>4x M3 x 20mm round head screws (this is a suggestion, you can use any size longer than 10mm) </li></ul>&nbsp;Note: There is now an untested insert box model (Diabetes_Testing_Caddy10C-BOX-NO-INSERTS.stl) which does not require the M3 brass inserts. It will still require the M3 screws, and maybe add some glue to keep them from working their way out. If you use the model without the inserts, please provide feedback on how it works for you. The screws will be a tight fit, but you can also heat them a bit and they may go in a bit easier.&nbsp;If you use the boxes with the inserts, there should not be any heat or glue needed to install them (though you can heat set them if you want), just use one M3 screw and set them first (the inserts go in from the inside of the box). Once the inserts are seated, you can remove the screw used to set them, put the lid in place and then install the M3x20mm screws (two per box). These screws will form the hinge of the lid. The boxes can then just drop into the holes in the base.  You can color code the lids if that helps to identify what is in the boxes.&nbsp;The parts are not oriented for printing but should require minimal supports. To print the lids, I suggest standing them on their thin end and using a brim to minimize the supports.&nbsp;I printed it in PETG for chemical resistance since it will be wiped down with alcohol on occasion.&nbsp;If you find these models useful, please post a like or a comment with some pics of your prints.You can find the other things I'm working on at my blog <a target="_blank" href="https://www.mystoopidstuff.com/blog" rel="nofollow noopener">here</a>. You can also <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@MyStoopidStuff" rel="nofollow noopener">follow me</a> here on Printables, to see what new stuff I post. If you would like to support my work, you can Buy Me A Coffee using this link:<a target="_blank" href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/mystoopidstuff" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.buymeacoffee.com/mystoopidstuff</a>Thanks for looking!&nbsp;Updates:10/24/2020 I changed the front left side hole to be the same depth as the rest of the holes in the caddy. This should make it a bit more universal. The updated base is now named Diabetes_Testing_Caddy11-DEEP-BASE.stl. I also updated the STP and added a README.TXT which contains this description.&nbsp;

Diabetes Testing Supply Organizer (with STEP file)

My Home Designs

<h3>1M Cable Reel for the Pinecil Red USB-C Cable (New and Improved Version)</h3>&nbsp;This is an update to an earlier model which was posted on Printables, but there was some positive feedback on Reddit to improve the model. I took the helpful feedback (thanks arne_mh), and this is the result.&nbsp;This is specifically designed for the <a target="_blank" href="https://pine64.com/product/usb-type-c-to-usb-type-c-silicone-power-charging-cable-1-meter-length/" rel="nofollow noopener">Pine64 (red) 1 meter USB-C silicone cable</a>, which I use with my Pinecil Soldering iron. The total length including USB connectors is ~1040mm. This spool may or may not fit other USB-C cables, but it definitely will not fit a USB-A cable. If you print this for use with a different cable, it may not fit.&nbsp;<h3>There are there versions of this model:</h3><ol><li>The standard version (V9F), which uses M3x10, M3x20 and two M3 locknuts</li><li>An “insert” verison (V9J), which uses M3x10, M3x20 and two <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/knurled-Threaded-Embedment-Printer-Automotive/dp/B0BW1YP5VQ" rel="nofollow noopener">M3 Brass Inserts (5x4mm)</a>.</li><li>A “GLUE ONLY” version (V9J) which does not require any hardware.</li></ol>I have only test printed the first version, but the others are only slight modifications so they should be OK, but let me know if you run into a problem with them.&nbsp;This uses no supports, but you will need to orient the models (see the pics).&nbsp;I used some <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082XGL21J" rel="nofollow noopener">Gorilla Superglue Gel</a> in addition to the screws to hold it together (the screws are there to help with alignment and keep it clamped while the glue dries.&nbsp;If you use a textured PEI build plate like I do, it may help to lightly hit the textured side with some sandpaper to smooth it out a bit, so the halves will fit together cleaner.&nbsp;I got some inspiration and dimensions from Schaxel's “<a target="_blank" href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5021909" rel="nofollow noopener">1m USB Cable Reel</a>” on Thingiverse, but due to the requirements of my project, the model here was designed from scratch.&nbsp;(imported from Printables)&nbsp;If you find these models useful, please post a like or a comment with some pics of your prints. You can find the other things I'm working on at my blog <a target="_blank" href="https://www.mystoopidstuff.com/blog" rel="nofollow noopener">here</a>.  You can also follow me <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/@mystoopidstuff" rel="nofollow noopener">here</a> or on <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@MyStoopidStuff" rel="nofollow noopener">Printables</a>, to see what new stuff I post.  If you would like to support my work, you can Buy Me A Coffee using this link:&nbsp;<h3><a target="_blank" href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/mystoopidstuff" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.buymeacoffee.com/mystoopidstuff</a></h3>Thanks for looking!&nbsp;

1M Cable Reel for the Pinecil Red USB-C Cable

My Tools and Stuff

<h2>Update 3/31/2024: This design has been updated to version 2.0, however since folks have made the v1.0 models, and may need spare parts, I am leaving this here.  The version 2.0 models offer improvements to print time and material use, as well as a stackable lid option.  If you want the latest version 2.0 models, you can find them at the links below:</h2><h2>NEW VERSION 2.0 MODELS CAN BE FOUND AT THE LINKS BELOW:</h2><h3><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/405008" rel="nofollow noopener">1x2, 1x3, 1x4 (6U and 12U) Lidded Bin for Stuff with Latch Version 2.0</a></h3><h3><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/405004" rel="nofollow noopener">2x2, 2x3, 2x4 (6U and 12U) Lidded Bin for Stuff with Latch Version 2.0</a></h3><h3><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/405013" rel="nofollow noopener">3x3, 3x4 (6U and 12U) Lidded Bin for Stuff with Latch Version 2.0</a></h3>&nbsp;&nbsp;Original Version 1.0 description:&nbsp;This is a Gridfinity 4x2 (6U) Lidded Bin with Latch.  It can hold whatever stuff will fit in a volume of approx 161x78x30.8mm. &nbsp;Due to the lid design, this will not work well if stacking 1x1 bins, on it, but works fine with 1x2 bins or larger.&nbsp;This design requires the following hardware:<ul><li>(2) M3x6mm Button Head Cap Screws (BHCS) - or any M3x6 button head screws.</li></ul>&nbsp;There is a 3MF included which is sliced using Bambu Studio with a 0.4mm X1 Carbon profile. The profile is for two single color plates (with slot 1 being white and slot 2 being gray if using an AMS). The profile uses Arachne wall generator and 15% gyroid infill. I also used adaptive layers (smooth) for the base.  I suggest using PETG for the lit at least, since it has an integrated spring.  PLA will work too, but PETG should be more durable.&nbsp;Assembly tips can be found in “Step 6” at the link below:<a target="_blank" href="https://www.mystoopidstuff.com/bambu-spares-box-build-guide.html" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.mystoopidstuff.com/bambu-spares-box-build-guide.html</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Other stuff:If you need some bins for small parts, the following bins with covers are a good option to use with the Box For Stuff <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/710154-gridfinity-box-for-stuff-bfs-20-bin-version-20" rel="nofollow noopener">20 bin </a>and <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/719788-gridfinity-25-bin-box-for-stuff-version-20-unteste" rel="nofollow noopener">25 bin </a>cases (or other 6U tall cases):<ol><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/237116#profileId-253187" rel="nofollow noopener">1 compartment 2x1 (6U) bin with a magnet pickup tool</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/416342" rel="nofollow noopener">1x1, 1x2 (3 Compartment) and 1x4 (6Compartment) bins with lids (6U) - version 2.1</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/405008" rel="nofollow noopener">1x2, 1x3, 1x4 (6U and 12U) Lidded Bin for Stuff with Latch Version 2.0</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/405004" rel="nofollow noopener">2x2, 2x3, 2x4 (6U and 12U) Lidded Bin for Stuff with Latch Version 2.0</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/405013" rel="nofollow noopener">3x3, 3x4 (6U and 12U) Lidded Bin for Stuff with Latch Version 2.0</a></li></ol>If you want to check out my other Gridfinity cases, you can find them at the links below:<ol><li>Gridfinity Box For Stuff <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/159840#profileId-266789" rel="nofollow noopener">20 bin (6U)</a></li><li>Gridfinity Box For Stuff <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/719788-gridfinity-25-bin-box-for-stuff-version-20-unteste" rel="nofollow noopener">25 bin (6U)</a> (max size for a Bambu X1C/P1S)</li><li>Gridfinity Box For Stuff <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/386034#profileId-286398" rel="nofollow noopener">16 bin (6U)</a> (Ender 3 size)</li><li>Gridfinity Box For Stuff <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/386041#profileId-286401" rel="nofollow noopener">16 bin - 12U deep version</a> (Ender 3 size)</li><li>Gridfinity Box For Stuff <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/389651" rel="nofollow noopener">2 bin (6U)</a> (small test version)</li></ol>If you want to store some small hardware and need some good labeled bins, <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@Ch3vr0n_247401" rel="nofollow noopener">Ch3vr0n</a> posted some segmented bins for the Gridfinity system here:<a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/732655-gridfinity-boxes-for-gridfinity-box-for-stuff-20-b" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.printables.com/model/732655-gridfinity-boxes-for-gridfinity-box-for-stuff-20-b</a>&nbsp;Update 3/8/2024: I found a minor issue with a gap in the model which was fixed.  The file Lidded_Large_Bin-1R-4x2_BASE.stl was updated with the change.  I did not see a problem with the old file when sliced, but since it was a problem I fixed it anyway.  I also uploaded a STEP model for the latest version (1R).  I have also completed models for a 2x2 and 3x2 version of this lidded box, which will be uploaded soon (once they are tested).&nbsp;If you find these models useful, please post a like or a comment with some pics of your prints.&nbsp;You can find the other things I&#39;m working on at my blog <a target="_blank" href="https://www.mystoopidstuff.com/blog" rel="nofollow noopener">here</a>. You can also follow me<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/2561228817" rel="nofollow noopener"> here </a>or on Printables, to see what new stuff I post. If you would like to support my work, you can Buy Me A Coffee using this link:&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/mystoopidstuff" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.buymeacoffee.com/mystoopidstuff</a>&nbsp;Thanks for looking!

Gridfinity 4x2 (6U) Lidded Bin with Latch ver 1.0

OLD Gridfinity Stuff

<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/183780#profileId-202639" rel="nofollow noopener">Dummy 13</a> needed something to ring in the new year, and so I made it a Martini glass. Unfortunately, things got a bit out of hand, and somehow the <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/527518-at-st-walker-kit-card" rel="nofollow noopener">AT-ST walker</a> droid (which we just got for Christmas!) is now in pieces, and nobody seems to know how it happened. I mean, this is an Imperial AT-ST Walker, it just doesn&#39;t fall apart like that…&nbsp;Really though, this Martini glass was inspired by seeing the sadly empty martini hand of <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/2185604356" rel="nofollow noopener">Mici</a>&#39;s new “<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/190196" rel="nofollow noopener">Gentleman Agent V1.1</a>”, which is the latest in Mici&#39;s Dummy 13 goes to <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/2185604356/collections/561808" rel="nofollow noopener">ComicCon series</a> (which has dozens of cool Dummy 13 remixes).There is also a non-split version of the glass, if you want to try it with Mici&#39;s “<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/174619" rel="nofollow noopener">Universal Grip Hand</a>” for Dummy 13.This will print without supports. The cocktail “insert” will need to be glued in, and is designed to allow a small section of filament to be used as a stir stick.&nbsp;&nbsp;If you find these models useful, please post a like or a comment with some pics of your prints. You can find the other things I&#39;m working on at my blog <a target="_blank" href="https://www.mystoopidstuff.com/blog" rel="nofollow noopener">here</a>. You can also follow me here on Printables to see what new stuff I post. If you would like to support my work, you can Buy Me A Coffee using this link:&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/mystoopidstuff" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.buymeacoffee.com/mystoopidstuff</a>&nbsp;Thanks for looking!&nbsp;&nbsp;Cover photo Credits/Info:<a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/527518-at-st-walker-kit-card" rel="nofollow noopener">AT-ST Walker Kit Card</a> by <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@Nakozen" rel="nofollow noopener">Nakozen</a><a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/668234-dummy13-goes-to-the-moon-astronaut-remix" rel="nofollow noopener">Dummy 13 Goes to the Moon</a> (MMU version) by <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@MyStoopidStuff" rel="nofollow noopener">Me</a><a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/693179-halo-armor-for-dummy-13" rel="nofollow noopener">Dummy 13 Halo Armor Remix</a> by <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@MyStoopidStuff" rel="nofollow noopener">Me</a>

Martini Glass for Dummy 13

Dummy 13

Dkarjadi&#39;s <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/21259#profileId-19505" rel="nofollow noopener">DK Riser</a> is amazing, and exactly what I would have used, however I did not want vents in my enclosure. I&#39;m working on a project to vent the printer using a ducted fan, so I need to minimize holes in the enclosure. Fortunately Dkarjadi provided the STEP files, so remixing his design was an option for me.&nbsp;This version adds some additional features which take advantage of some of the space that is freed up by removing the vents. These include:<ul><li>A switch for the LED&#39;s on the front</li><li>A small label for the front, which can be customized (a blank STL and STEP are included)</li><li>A DC input jack on the back, and an optional fuse</li><li>All wiring is enclosed and covered</li><li>A holder for the <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/382058-bambu-ams-disconnect-tool" rel="nofollow noopener">Bambu AMS Disconnect Tool</a>, which is the most used tool on my printer.</li><li>Taller at 40mm, allows me to let the Bowden tube run free (no Bowden guide needed)</li></ul>The model posted here has some updates which I thought may be beneficial, after assembling and using mine. One of the updates (the TPU top covers) however, are not tested. The TPU top covers included here have an overlap, which should help better isolate light leaks. This version appears to slice fine, and is included in the .3mf. If you prefer to print a tested part, please use the TPU covers included in the<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/21259#profileId-19505" rel="nofollow noopener"> original DK Riser design</a> (which this was remixed from), since those are also compatible (I did not include those here). If you choose to make the untested TPU top covers, please provide feedback on them.&nbsp;A list of suggested parts for this can be found on my site:&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://www.mystoopidstuff.com/blog/dk-riser-remix-is-posted" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.mystoopidstuff.com/blog/dk-riser-remix-is-posted</a>&nbsp;This will require some soldering, and a few tools like screwdrivers, wires cutters, wire strippers, and a heat gun to shrink some heat shrink on the wires. Superglue is also needed to secure the TPU covers, and I also dabbed a bit on the switch and the DC inlet jack to help secure them.&nbsp;Update 2/7/2024 - I removed all labels except for the blank label, in order to comply with the MakerWorld announcement of 2024-01-08 regarding using their logo or name in designs without permission. However the STEP and STL&#39;s are included for a blank label, which can be used as-is (blank), or by adding text within the slicer.&nbsp;&nbsp;The STL&#39;s are not oriented for printing, however if you use the .3mf (which was created in <a target="_blank" href="https://github.com/SoftFever/OrcaSlicer/releases/" rel="nofollow noopener">OrcaSlicer</a>), the parts are set up to print. Note however that I did not test the 3mf (since I printed parts piecemeal to test), but I set them up as I would print them. The .3mf has painted supports (use tree-manual) for the front right, front left, and back right corners. The .3mf is set up to print in PETG using a an engineering plate, however I used the cool plate for the TPU parts (with some of the <a target="_blank" href="https://store.bambulab.com/collections/consumables-for-x1-series/products/liquid-glue-for-build-plate" rel="nofollow noopener">Bambu liquid glue</a> as a release agent), and it worked well. If the TPU parts stick too much, some IPA can be used as they are separated from the plate, which helps to dissolve the glue to remove them.&nbsp;If you find these models useful, please post a like or a comment with some pics of your prints.You can find the other things I&#39;m working on at my blog <a target="_blank" href="https://www.mystoopidstuff.com/blog" rel="nofollow noopener">here</a>. You can also follow me here or on Printables, to see what new stuff I post. If you would like to support my work, you can Buy Me A Coffee using this link:<a target="_blank" href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/mystoopidstuff" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.buymeacoffee.com/mystoopidstuff</a>&nbsp;Thanks for looking!&nbsp;The model posted here is for personal, non-commercial use only, and is being shared (for free) with the 3D printing community to help us better use our Bambu printers. The trademarks used in this model belong to Bambu Lab.

DK Riser Remix (No Vents), 40mm with Front Switch

Bambu Printer Stuff

This is an alternate base for the <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/62636#profileId-223950" rel="nofollow noopener">Bambu Labs X1C Spare Parts Case (Version 2.1)</a>, which removes the glue bottle holders, and replaces them with a lidded compartment which has a built in latch. This model only includes the alternate bottom shell for the spares case, therefore please grab the rest of the parts (or the 3MF&#39;s for the other parts) from the original model. I recommend that you grab the following profiles from the <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/62636#profileId-223950" rel="nofollow noopener">original model</a>, and remove the parts that you do not need:&nbsp;1. X1C_Bambu_ToolKit-9B_NO_PRIME_TOWER.3mfThis file includes all the parts except for the labels and SD inserts. This includes several 2 color parts, which will need either a color swap or the AMS. This is set up without a prime tower for the reasons explained below.&nbsp;2. X1C_Bambu_ToolKit-9B_LABELS_AND_INSERTS_FOR_AMS.3mfThis file includes all the (new 2 peg) labels and SD card inserts, which require the AMS. The prime tower can be used normally on these. You can change the AMS colors and delete any items which are not going to be used from the build plate, before printing this one. For reference, my AMS was set up with the following colors when I set this file up:&nbsp;This model has not been fully test printed, however I have test printed the elements which are changed from the original, and am confident that it should work without issues. I already have working case, which I am happy with, so printing this alternate bottom shell would be redundant for me. I&#39;ve spent several hours making sure the model should print and work without issues, but feedback is welcome, if you see an issue.&nbsp;Due to the complexity of this print, I have included a 3MF for this which should help with printing. It uses the same settings as the original model. Due to the inlay (which is only a few layers high), the bottom shell is printed in two colors, without a prime tower (there is no room for it). The doors should be printed in PETG if possible, however PLA will also work, but it may not be as durable in the long run due to the integrated spring. The included profile is set up to use PETG for all parts. The settings mentioned are all included in the 3MF profile.&nbsp;The profile uses the following setup in the AMS:<ol><li>White PETG</li><li>Blue PETG</li><li>Orange PETG</li><li>Gray PETG</li></ol><h4>Tips on building it:</h4>I recommend using safety glasses since there are a few parts that must snap in place. You can find a build guide for this on my website here:<a target="_blank" href="https://www.mystoopidstuff.com/bambu-spares-box-build-guide.html" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.mystoopidstuff.com/bambu-spares-box-build-guide.html</a>&nbsp;This only requires the following additional hardware:&nbsp;(2) M3 x 6mm BHCS You can refer to the link above or the description of the the <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/62636#profileId-223950" rel="nofollow noopener">Bambu Labs X1C Spare Parts Case (Version 2.1)</a> for more information on printing tips or assembly info for the case.&nbsp;If you find these models useful, please post a like or a comment with some pics of your prints.&nbsp;You can find the other things I&#39;m working on at my blog <a target="_blank" href="https://www.mystoopidstuff.com/blog" rel="nofollow noopener">here</a>. You can also follow me <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/2561228817" rel="nofollow noopener">here</a> or on <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@MyStoopidStuff/models" rel="nofollow noopener">Printables,</a> to see what new stuff I post. If you would like to support my work, you can Buy Me A Coffee using this link:<a target="_blank" href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/mystoopidstuff" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.buymeacoffee.com/mystoopidstuff</a>Thanks for looking!&nbsp;The model posted here is for personal, non-commercial use only, and is being shared (for free) with the 3D printing community to help us organize our Bambu printer stuff (so we can get it all together, and put in this box…all the stuff…so it&#39;s together). The trademarks used in this model belong to Bambu Lab.

Bambu Labs X1C Spare Parts Case V2.1 Alt base opt

Bambu Spares Box

Jhos Fuentes

he monumental Christ the Redeemer statue in Rio de Janeiro is one of the most recognizable landmarks in the whole world, becoming a symbol of the city and Brazil.

Christ the Redeemer - Brazil

Busts and Stuff

KYZ Design

Update 04/03/2024 - License changed from “Standard Digital File License” to “CC-BY-NC-SA”. Multi-body STP file uploaded. Oh yeah, I over-engineered the hell out of this one! I went through more than 12 iterations and I think this is going to be my final version. The main challenge was designing outer walls that print without a million retractions so I didn’t want to just put regular holes and slots around the perimeter. These cheese grater looking holes are opened up both towards the inside and outside in alternating patterns creating quite large vent areas. Each section has a single line of extrusion per layer so it prints fast and isn’t too torturous for all 4 motors.&nbsp;I printed mine in clear polycarbonate and it was super easy because there aren’t any long straight walls that cause warping. ASA would also be a good choice but I chose polycarbonate so I can see the colour of the indicating desiccant without opening the canister.&nbsp;Design Objectives:<ul><li>Large vented surface area, even when installed into a spool, for quick drying of enclosed airspaces</li><li>Multiple cross-flow air paths for quick drying of desiccant without removal of the desiccant beads from the container</li><li>Design primarily for the Bambu reusable spools and sits flush with the sides of the spools. (However, as different manufacturers are converging on a more "standard" spool size thanks to the AMS, these should fit some other spool brands)</li><li>Work as a Bambu reusable spool's "spool shim" to prevent the spool pieces separating</li><li>Fast print, minimise filament retractions when printing vents on vertical walls</li><li>Strong and sturdy to last a long time - no vase mode</li><li>Desiccant cannot fall out when moving the holder between spools</li></ul>&nbsp;Print material:<ul><li>OK to use PLA if you don't plan on drying the desiccant inside the canisters</li><li>PETG recommended as a minimum if you want to dry the desiccant gently without removing them from the canisters</li><li>ASA/ABS/PC recommended</li></ul>Print settings:<ul><li>For Bambu users: print from the app.<ul><li>Feel free to add print profiles here if you changed something and think it may be useful to others.</li></ul></li><li>For those who are getting the STLs and slicing it yourself:<ul><li>Import the “cap” and “cap mesh" together and put them in an assembly to keep them aligned</li><li>Likewise, import the “body" and “body mesh" together and put them in an assembly to keep them aligned</li><li>The mesh parts should have no walls, no top, no bottom and 50-60% triangular infill (or as you see fit)</li><li>Use 3 walls for all parts, 3 layers for the bottom, 4 layers for the top</li><li>Layer height as you see fit (I use 0.20m)</li><li>Even if you have a fast printer, slow down the outer wall speed for part durability and consistency in gloss level (I use 50mm/s)</li><li>ARACHNE WALL GENERATOR MUST BE ON!</li><li>The preview should look something like below:</li><li><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/633232/2024-02-11_f252a48fe100d.png"></li><li><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/633232/2024-02-11_b2309d4cdaeda.png"></li></ul></li></ul>Spool Compatibility<ul><li>These work well with Bambu spools and eSun cardboard spools.</li><li>For eSun plastic spools, you will need to turn the retainer around for a tighter fit (these spools are getting phased out anyways).</li><li>Please check out the comments and makes as they come through - on this page and on Printables - as users post these with their spools - I've seen one already fitted on a Polymaker cardboard spool.</li><li>Sorry these are not compatible with Prusament spools but <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/23470" rel="nofollow noopener">this one</a> works with them.</li></ul>Fitment<ul><li>Overall, it's important to have your pressure advance (k value) tuned so that the seams don't bulge out and make it harder to thread parts together.</li><li>The cap is designed to fit very tightly. If you print from PLA, you might find that it threads in really easy but if you print from PETG (which has higher friction and generally doesn't print as cleanly), it is a bit hard on your fingernails to thread in. This is to ensure the cap doesn't come off and spill all the beans during use. I have included a cap installer/remover to make it a bit easier on your fingers.<ul><li>Unfortunately, even with all the settings and printer dialed in properly, variations in filament batch may create fitment issues. It's not necessarily your fault - don't be disheartened by seeing 99% of users say it's perfect but yours isn't! Measure your filament diameter. Sometimes it can be 1.72mm, sometimes 1.78mm - the latter will make the fit tighter. Either reprint just the cap in a different filament, a different section of the same roll, or scale it down slightly. (Another user has already created print profiles for easier fitting parts!)</li></ul></li><li>The retainer has been designed with a larger clearance than the cap so it should thread in nicely. However, the thread pitch is quite fine because it's designed to fit tightly to the spool so it stays on in the AMS with the constant winding and unwinding. This can, with some spools, make it difficult to remove. User @urzhiataer has made a <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/190462" rel="nofollow noopener">tool to help remove the retainer</a>, check it out!</li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:45.6%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/633232/2024-02-18_246b3e25e48f28.png"><figcaption>Retainer removing tool by @urzhiataer</figcaption></figure>&nbsp;That's all, enjoy!&nbsp;Wait two more things: print this <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/73654" rel="nofollow noopener">canister holder</a> to dry 7 of them at once in your filament dryer:<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:75.93%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/633232/2024-02-14_f3628eb848943.png"><figcaption>Desiccant Dryer Ferris Wheel</figcaption></figure>And if you have lots of little fragments of desiccant because you microwaved them on high, perhaps try out this <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/190762" rel="nofollow noopener">filter scoop</a>:&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:68.31%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/633232/2024-02-18_0f2082378d3f8.jpg"><figcaption>Filter Scoop</figcaption></figure>

KYZ FF2 High Flow Desiccant Holder - For Bambu and Other Spools

Printer Stuff

Marc Elbichon

🐈🐭 There are other variants, checkout <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/3864875302/collections/528929" rel="nofollow noopener">the entire collection</a>!🎅🦹♀️🧛🧝 Other characters in <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/3864875302/collections/594647" rel="nofollow noopener">this collection</a> !&nbsp;Update 2024-02-02: V2 - Redraw from scratch, scale up a little bit Jerry for better details, separate stl files&nbsp;I like the original model but add some issues with it, I rework the stl splitting and painting for better result.&nbsp;Simply print and put at a bottom of a wall, shelf, etc.. with a piece of double sided tape

Tom and Jerry Decorative Wall Hole

Home

Kardes.Design

The Kiyomi Japanese Lamp is a sleek and stylish lighting fixture that embodies the essence of simplicity. Its interchangeable panels that are influenced by Japanese design, create a relaxing and beautiful ambiance, making it the perfect addition to any space.&nbsp;The <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/31480#profileId-33790" rel="nofollow noopener">panel template</a> is available for the community to remix as they wish. I will add more panels in the future as well.&nbsp;<ul><li>Effortless Printing: No support material needed for printing, making it a hassle-free experience.</li><li>Works seamlessly with <a target="_blank" href="https://eu.store.bambulab.com/en-be/products/led-lamp-kit-001" rel="nofollow noopener">Bambu Lab&#39;s LED lamp kit</a> and a generic LED strip.</li><li>Assembly Made Easy: Snap together with ease - no glue or extra hardware required.</li><li>Everything is printable on all Bambu lab printers including the A1 mini</li><li>Print profiles for Non-AMS and AMS users</li><li>Fully compatible with my <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/2706903410/collections/57878" rel="nofollow noopener">mystic lamp panels collection</a>. Dozens of panels available!</li></ul>Print instructions: colored AMS and Non-AMS 3MF Files with perfect print settings are available for all models!Main structureLayer height: 0.2Infill: 10%Bottom/top layers: 4Walls: 2 &nbsp;I uploaded an alternate simple version in case you wanted a more basic look. <figure class="table" style="float:left;width:62.82%;"><table class="ck-table-resized"><colgroup><col><col></colgroup><tbody><tr><td>Default Stylized version</td><td><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:100%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000061878/design/2023-11-11_8cb6067ebbc09.jpg"></figure></td></tr><tr><td>Basic Version (The stylized top fits the basic version)</td><td>&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:100%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000061878/design/2023-11-11_9a6bc6179ffd2.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;</td></tr></tbody></table></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Panels:&nbsp;Non-AMS VersionPrint the NON-AMS version print profile if you do not have the AMS. It has preprogramed Pauses for color changes. I made them only 2 or 3 colors per panel to make it easier. just start with white or another light color and end with black. You can choose the color in between.&nbsp;&nbsp;AMS Version&nbsp;Print directly with from the print profile and easily change colors. I separated each color change to a separate object. You can choose green for example instead of Purple by just changing the second layer object. &nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000061878/design/2023-11-11_d5abd30b602c8.png">You can use 3 colors instead of 4 if you do not have different shades. In the examples below I only used <a target="_blank" href="https://store.bambulab.com/products/pla-basic-filament?variant=40820833517683" rel="nofollow noopener">White</a>/<a target="_blank" href="https://store.bambulab.com/collections/bambu-lab-3d-printer-filament/products/pla-sparkle?variant=40904273133683" rel="nofollow noopener">Purple</a>/<a target="_blank" href="https://store.bambulab.com/products/pla-matte-filament?variant=40743590297715" rel="nofollow noopener">Black</a>. And <a target="_blank" href="https://store.bambulab.com/products/pla-basic-filament?variant=40820833517683" rel="nofollow noopener">White</a>/<a target="_blank" href="https://store.bambulab.com/collections/bambu-lab-3d-printer-filament/products/pla-sparkle?variant=40800505528435" rel="nofollow noopener">Green</a>/<a target="_blank" href="https://store.bambulab.com/products/pla-matte-filament?variant=40743590297715" rel="nofollow noopener">Black</a>.<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000061878/design/2023-11-11_a6d00ec8974f.jpg">&nbsp;Colors used for other panels:<a target="_blank" href="https://store.bambulab.com/collections/bambu-lab-3d-printer-filament/products/pla-sparkle?variant=40904273133683" rel="nofollow noopener">Bambu Lab PLA Sparkle Royal Purple</a><a target="_blank" href="https://store.bambulab.com/products/pla-matte-filament?variant=40743590232179" rel="nofollow noopener">Bambu Lab PLA Matte ivory white</a> (Alternatively <a target="_blank" href="https://store.bambulab.com/products/pla-basic-filament?variant=40820833517683" rel="nofollow noopener">Basic Jade White</a>)<a target="_blank" href="https://store.bambulab.com/products/pla-matte-filament?variant=40904271495283" rel="nofollow noopener">Bambu Lab PLA Matte Sakura Pink</a><a target="_blank" href="https://store.bambulab.com/products/pla-matte-filament?variant=40743590297715" rel="nofollow noopener">Bambu Lab PLA Matte Charcoal </a>( Alternatively <a target="_blank" href="https://store.bambulab.com/products/pla-basic-filament?variant=40820833648755" rel="nofollow noopener">Basic Black</a>)&nbsp;Lighting:&nbsp;All pictures were taken with the <a target="_blank" href="https://store.bambulab.com/products/led-lamp-kit-001" rel="nofollow noopener">Bambu Lab Led lamp kit 001</a>. It is perfect for the lamp and provides more than enough lighting.&nbsp;Print the LED channel if you don&#39;t have the Bambu lab LED kit.&nbsp;The channel can fit around a 2 meters. you do not need to cut the strip if its longer. instructions below.&nbsp;<figure class="table" style="float:left;width:278.968px;"><table class="ck-table-resized" style="border:1px double rgb(179, 179, 179);"><colgroup><col><col></colgroup><tbody><tr><td style="border:1px solid rgb(191, 191, 191);padding:0.4em;"><a target="_blank" href="https://eu.store.bambulab.com/en-be/products/led-lamp-kit-001" rel="nofollow noopener">Bambu Lab LED lamp kit</a></td><td style="border:1px solid rgb(191, 191, 191);padding:0.4em;">&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000061878/design/2023-11-11_6ca67e2e24af1.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000061878/design/2023-11-11_034b388203e19.jpg"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000061878/design/2023-11-11_26d242b5e773a.jpg"></figure></td></tr><tr><td style="border:1px solid rgb(191, 191, 191);padding:0.4em;">Generic LED strip( 2meters)</td><td style="border:1px solid rgb(191, 191, 191);padding:0.4em;"><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000061878/design/2023-10-24_572427393436.gif"></figure></td></tr></tbody></table></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Hi, I&#39;m a student and love creating functional and beautiful designs optimized for 3D printing.if you like my work consider supporting me with these options:<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://www.paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=6VL4LD2NAJJ86" rel="nofollow noopener">Paypal</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/KardesDesign" rel="nofollow noopener">Buymeacoffee</a></li></ul>