Mustafa

CraftyFox3D

<img class="image_resized" style="width: 76.86%" src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000487648/design/2024-06-07_a6fb5d17f07e9.png">Introducing our customizable D&amp;D tabletop condition marker set! This set includes files for rings designed to easily encircle the base of your miniatures, keeping track of their current conditions with ease.&nbsp;Each ring feature labels showcasing various status conditions commonly encountered in Dungeons &amp; Dragons adventures. Whether your creature is poisoned, paralyzed, or grappled, our condition tracker rings ensure that vital information is clearly displayed for all players to see.&nbsp;With the added convenience of customization through OpenSCAD, you have the power to tailor each ring to your specific needs. &nbsp;Adjust the text, font and size of the ring effortlessly, ensuring seamless integration with your gaming setup.&nbsp;But that&#39;s not all! These rings are not only invaluable for tracking conditions but are also handy at organizing initiative order during combat. Streamline your gameplay and keep the action flowing smoothly with our D&amp;D tabletop condition marker set.&nbsp;Included are condition rings for:<ol><li>Blinded</li><li>Charmed</li><li>Deafened</li><li>Frightened</li><li>Grappled</li><li>Incapacitated</li><li>Invisible</li><li>Paralyzed</li><li>Petrified</li><li>Poisoned</li><li>Prone</li><li>Restrained</li><li>Stunned</li><li>Unconscious</li><li>Exhaustion</li><li>Diseased</li><li>Cursed</li><li>Concentrating</li></ol>Also included, rings for Initiative Tracking:<ol><li>Monster 1</li><li>Monster 2</li><li>Monster 3</li><li>Monster 4</li><li>Monster 5</li><li>NPC 1</li><li>NPC 2</li></ol>Simple color change at layer height to reduce waste!Just change the color for the last two layers in the Preview tab to further customize these markers with whatever color scheme you want.<img class="image_resized" style="width: 38.17%" src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000487648/design/2024-06-07_0456472e582ef.png">

Tabletop Gaming Condition Rings

Leon Fisher-Skipper

<h2>This Feature got implemented for P1 and X1 in <a target="_blank" href="https://github.com/bambulab/BambuStudio/releases/tag/v01.09.00.60" rel="nofollow noopener">BambuStudio Beta 1.9</a>. Please use this, as you can easily adapt the retraction length and turn the feature on and off as you please. A1 and A1 mini still have to use the download here.  </h2><h2>Description:</h2>TLDR: This mod allows you to use a lower flush multiplier without the color bleed that it would have with the default profile. &nbsp;Great <a target="_blank" href="https://youtu.be/suFbfer1WhI?si=7mcjxLNhubW9WR1a" rel="nofollow noopener">video</a> by butter pocket prints explaining this change.&nbsp;<h2>How to use it:</h2><ol><li>Open the 3mf file and save the Nozzle Profiles of your Printer to your User Presets. It will tell you that the G-Code was changed, confirm with OK, as this is exactly how the profile works. The profile name has to be changed to save it.  </li><li>Now you need to adjust your purge settings! I would just set the multiplier to 0.5 on P1 and X1 and 0.65 on A1 and A1 mini. The values may now show red in the purge settings, but they will still work. </li></ol>!Dont use with Silk PLA!  !Confirm that you are running the newest Version of Bambu Slicer. Orca Slicer may work but is not tested!&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Original Post from 14.09.2023 on Printables with the title “bambulab profile for up to 60% purge reduction” which has sadly since been deleted by prusa:&nbsp;&nbsp;<h2>Orginal Description:</h2>The biggest issue with The Bambulab printers is that during multicolor printing ridiculous amounts of purge (dubbed poop by some) are generated, when switching colors.(Example: <a target="_blank" href="https://reddit.com/r/BambuLab/s/iMiT0Bis6i" rel="nofollow noopener">https://reddit.com/r/BambuLab/s/iMiT0Bis6i</a> or <a target="_blank" href="https://reddit.com/r/BambuLab/s/wDpB3A3N6k" rel="nofollow noopener">https://reddit.com/r/BambuLab/s/wDpB3A3N6k</a>)This has to be done to clear the Printhead of the old color and replace it with the new color.The Print head has a internal volume bellow the cutter of 110 mm3, meaning that at least 110 mm3 of filament has to be flushed and an additional amount to account for the transition when the old color mixes into the new color.Of these 110 mm3 in the hot end, only half get melted, as the rest stays in the cold part around the heat sink.Here comes a neat trick I found: Before cutting, the unmelted part can get pulled up so that it can be fed back into the AMS. When the new filament is feed into the hotend, it gets pushed in an additional 20mm.This means that for every filament change 50mm3 of filament is saved.As a result much less purge volume is required.When the print ends, the filament also gets pushed out 20 mm, to also save filament here.The filament gets pushed out another 20mm during purging when starting the print too, to account for the push-back when the print ends.   The saving results can be seen in the first picture.I used this model (<a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/536401-bambu-lab-ams-purging-strips-p1p/files" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.printables.com/model/536401-bambu-lab-ams-purging-strips-p1p/files </a>) by Joey_466945 and printed it once with the „Save filament Profile“ and once with the normal on. The flush Volumes have to be set to 0 for this test! Each line on the strips corresponds to 100 mm3. It’s clearly visible that each transition is shifted by 50mm3.For advantageous color combinations like blue and red these 50mm3 savings correspond to a very high saving percentage. Combinations which have a lot of color bleed like white to black need a lot of purging still, so the percentage saved is much less.I printed two benchies for comparison (the left one is the saving Profil) and the quality stayed the same, despite the flush volumes being reduced by 50mm3. The benchy with my profile generated 60% less purge.Both prints used a prime tower though which stayed the same size.  The Profile only changes 8 lines of code in the G-Code.I tested thousands of filament changes and had no issues. Tests have been done on X1C, P1P, P1S and A1 mini. Edit: Silk PLA and Bambu support material should not be used with this profile. Tests by Bambulab indicate problems.   &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;—————————————————————————————————————————————————UPDATE 01.02.2024: I made a mistake with the A1 and A1 mini profiles. Retraction was now lowered and should improve reliability. Max. savings with A1 and A1 mini is now 33% and the net savings per filament change is 36 mm3. P1 and X1 still have a max saving of 45% and a net saving of 50 mm3. This is due to the changed geometry of the hotend, because the hot zone is a bit longer. This reduction is more on the conservative side, it is probably possible to get away with more savings, but I can’t test it yet as I don’t have a A1 or mini. &nbsp;UPDATE 25.01.2024: Bambulab updated the A1 and A1 mini print profiles, so I also updated them to the current version.I have also heard back from Bambulab and they are testing the feature. They have run into problems with Silk PLA though, so it seems it works not with all filaments perfectly. <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/1929892454" rel="nofollow noopener">@EyemJoe</a> also mentioned problems with Support filament. If you use these two filaments be careful. &nbsp;UPDATE 11.01.2024: I changed the start G-Code as on some printers the Load Line was incomplete on some printers.Thanks to <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@Cosquilla_523214" rel="nofollow noopener">@Cosquilla_523214</a> for pointing me to the issues and suggesting a fix. I also changed the title, as the calculated maximum saving is 45% for this method and not 60% as the title stated before. The 60% was what I observed on my testprint, but this was with a small quality reduction. 45% is without a quality reduction. &nbsp;I have also found out that Bill from 3D chameleon also was using retractions to reduce waste on the Bambu Printers a couple of months before me. I independently came up with this, but his hardware based solution is also very interesting. The big difference is, that my profile doesn’t require any hardware changes. If you are interested in multi color printing, his Chameleon is very interesting and was one of the smartest and best solutions before the Bambu AMS. It also makes Multi-color printing possible on any printer. If you are interested visit his <a target="_blank" href="https://www.3dchameleon.com/" rel="nofollow noopener">Website</a>, where he will also soon launch the MK4 version. &nbsp;UPDATE 18.12.2023: Now Profiles for all Bambu Printers and all Nozzles including A1, A1 mini and X1E.Thanks for @rc2k7_1528233, @Sven and @AustinWolt_1104655 for testing the A1 mini Profile.@AustinWolt_1104655 also made a <a target="_blank" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VLgqqTbFd3k" rel="nofollow noopener">Video</a> explaining how to use the Profiles.&nbsp;UPDATE 12.12.2023: I added profiles for all nozzle sizes and Printers including the P1P, P1S, X1C and one experimental profile for the A1 mini.All the profiles are saved in the same file. Save those you need to your User Presets.I also slightly updated the documentation in the code to make it more clear.&nbsp;UPDATE 20.09.2023: G-Code was modified so that the calculated amounts of waste from Bambu Studio are accurate. Before there was a small discrepancy.I also wrote the G-Code down below with instructions how to use the settings without the download.—————————————————————————————————————————————————  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;To use the changes without the download do the following:To use these changes go into Printer Profil and select one of the Profiles you want to change. If you dont use any custom profiles, just use the standard, in my case “Bambu Lab X1 Carbon 0.4 Nozzle” for the 0.4 Nozzle. <img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/582382/rich_content/e29a19a0-b85b-4006-869e-9fe5754d62ca/thumbs/cover/800x460/jpg/bambulabchangeprofil.webp">Then go into “Machine G-Code” and edit the G-Code in 3 of the text fields like described below. Save the changes afterwards.<img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/582382/rich_content/3ecd6635-2875-4137-a41c-7cb7eac954d2/thumbs/cover/800x459/jpg/bambulabchangeprofil2.webp">&nbsp;Changes to the g-code are marked bold in the PDF documentation.

Reduce purge by up to 45%.

Makine ayarlari

Lucky 13 Toys

<h3>Dummy 13 is now on a CC BY 4.0 license!</h3>This means that you are free to share these files however you like, including selling prints, provided that you give proper attribution. You can give proper attribution by including this notice on your product page:<figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/183780#profileId-202639" rel="nofollow noopener">DUMMY 13 Printable Jointed Figure </a>© 2023 by <a target="_blank" href="https://www.lucky13toys.com/" rel="nofollow noopener">Lucky 13 Toys </a>is licensed under <a target="_blank" href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/?ref=chooser-v1" rel="nofollow noopener">CC BY 4.0 </a></td></tr></tbody></table></figure>Please help me build my identity as a creator by referring to this design by its original name. Don't pass off my work as your own product. Too many people are doing that already!&nbsp;Want to support future projects with a one-time donation? <a target="_blank" href="https://www.paypal.com/donate/?business=65FUQ2SJMYDDS&no_recurring=0&item_name=Thanks+for+supporting+Lucky+13%21&currency_code=USD" rel="nofollow noopener">Make a PayPal donation here!</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@soozafone/activity/4153" rel="nofollow noopener">This is my own work, originally uploaded to Printables.</a>&nbsp;Yes, Dummy 13 is now on MakerWorld.&nbsp;<h3>Please read before printing:</h3>This is a work in progress. It has been collecting virtual dust while I work on other projects, so I've decided to release it now in a “beta” state. I don't have a timeline for when the final version will be finished, but the current files are fairly complete - just lacking some perfectionist polish. Please understand that there is some room for improvement here. I welcome your feedback to help make this design the best it can be.&nbsp;What's finished right now: Design of all parts, except for minor tweaks based on feedback. Basic instructions.&nbsp;What's not finished: Parts on runners for better adhesion without brims. More detailed instructions. Fusion 360 and STEP files for Printables Club members (please note that these will not be available until the design is finalized). Any updates based on feedback.&nbsp;Can I sell it? Yes, Dummy 13 is distributed under a CC BY 4.0 license that does allow commercial use, provided that you provide proper attribution.&nbsp;If you'd like to say thanks and help support future development, you can make a one-time donation <a target="_blank" href="https://www.paypal.com/donate/?business=65FUQ2SJMYDDS&no_recurring=0&item_name=Thanks+for+supporting+Lucky+13%21&currency_code=USD" rel="nofollow noopener">here</a> :)&nbsp;---&nbsp;<h3>Introducing Dummy 13!</h3>(…working title.)This is another variant on <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/148367-lucky-13-printable-jointed-figure" rel="nofollow noopener">Lucky 13</a>, and I actually started designing it before <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/422353-mini-13-printable-jointed-figure" rel="nofollow noopener">Mini 13</a> or <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/555170-easy-13-printable-jointed-figure" rel="nofollow noopener">Easy 13</a>. As you can probably tell, my goal here was to bring some more humanlike proportions to the figure, while also improving the way everything fits together.&nbsp;My hope is that this will be an easier print than the original Lucky 13, though still a step up from Mini and Easy.&nbsp;<h3>Printing</h3>As with the original, Dummy 13 is made up of an inner "frame" with a layer of “armor” over top. You can use the material of your choice for the armor, but you should print the frame with a strong and sturdy material like ABS, ASA, or PETG. I mostly use ASA.&nbsp;PLA is not recommended for the frame. If you print the frame in PLA and complain that it broke or went floppy, I'm going to be like, “yeah dude, I told you not to.”&nbsp;All parts print without supports and you should not need to reorient anything. Bed adhesion is the toughest part of this print. For better adhesion try slowing down your first layer, printing external perimeters first, and adding a brim if needed. Use 0.15mm layers (0.2mm first layer).&nbsp;You can use the included 3MF files with pre-plated parts, or arrange the individual parts yourself. If a part starts with “2x” or “4x,” print that many copies. There are also a couple extra bits (a simple staff accessory and an adapter for the <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/563861-lucky-13-display-base-20" rel="nofollow noopener">display base</a>) that are included separately.&nbsp;Recommended print settings (100% scale, 0.4mm nozzle)<figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td rowspan="2">Material</td><td>Frame parts</td><td>ABS, ASA, or PETG</td></tr><tr><td>Armor parts</td><td>Any</td></tr><tr><td rowspan="2">Layer height</td><td>First layer</td><td>0.2 mm</td></tr><tr><td>Other layers</td><td>0.15 mm</td></tr><tr><td colspan="2">Infill</td><td>20% rectilinear</td></tr><tr><td colspan="2">First layer speed</td><td>25% of default</td></tr><tr><td colspan="2">Elephant foot compensation</td><td>0.15 mm</td></tr><tr><td colspan="2">Supports</td><td>None</td></tr><tr><td colspan="2">Brim</td><td>As needed (depends on bed adhesion)</td></tr><tr><td colspan="2">Additional settings</td><td>☑ Print external perimeters first</td></tr></tbody></table></figure>&nbsp;<h3>Assembly</h3>Follow this video for assembly instructions. Pay attention - some parts look very similar!<figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rwu3UP0cHZw"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Rwu3UP0cHZw" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure>&nbsp;<h3>Customizing</h3>Dummy 13 should be compatible with most handheld accessories made for my other designs. Check out Lucky 13's <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/148367-lucky-13-printable-jointed-figure/remixes" rel="nofollow noopener">remixes page</a> for a good starting point!&nbsp;&nbsp;This design has already been stolen and stripped of attribution a hundred times over. Please don't add to that.

dnd

Makine ayarlari

guzeeeel