mrdobbs

ATTV85

Dragon spacecraft is capable of carrying up to 7 passengers to and from Earth orbit, and beyond.

SpaceX Dragon capsule

DIY - Vehicles

Ryschweitzer

A book nook inspired by the Hogwarts Express. I&#39;ve cut the model into pieces for easy printing. I used super glue, hot glue, and some fairy lights to make it stand out. I&#39;ve attached an assembly guide below to help you put the book nook together.&nbsp;*ADDITION*I&#39;ve uploaded a remixed version of the Hogwarts Castle from @Usefulprint to work as a window box.&nbsp;Window Box Hogwarts Castle Extension: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/405431#profileId-307284" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/405431#profileId-307284</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;

Hogwarts Express Book Nook

Decor

EVERYTHINGPLUSULTRA

BEST BEARINGS ON MAKERWORLD - ALL SIZES - 608/6902/6000/6001/6002/6004 - NO SUPPORTS *** ADD OIL /LUBRICANT / WD-40 to SPIN BETTER

Awesome bearings ALL Sizes

Tools - Other

dekrug

Made a few changes to original rack by making the gap smaller so when it's sliding back and forth it has less give. There's 2 versions along with the orignal rack so you can pick which tolorence works best for you. Also made the nub bigger so that it sits in the square hole better. Need to work on the home button some more, plan to put in a spring so it works nicer. &nbsp;What you need:608 bearing, 22mm diameter, 7mm thick, 8mm center. Skateboard bearing1.6mm diameter metal rod X2 [butterfly paper clip/14 gauge finishing nail/wire] I used a m2x20Superglue<h3>Post-Printing</h3>Break off the support piece&nbsp;Attach the pivot to the rack:Method 1: Screw m2x20 into the top of the rack and it will sit freely in the pivot.&nbsp;Method 2:Cut down a 14 gauge finishing nail to a length of 20 mm. Pass the nail up through the pivot and into the rack. The pivot should spin free on the nail with minimal play. Put a drop of superglue in the slotted part of the rack. A piece of paperclip [wire] works but it's tricky to get a tight bend on the end.Method 2:Kids, don't play with fire...Take a straight piece of 1.75mm diameter filament and heat the end with a lighter for just over a second. Mash the end so it looks like a nail head. Pass the filament up through the pivot and into the rack. The pivot should spin free with minimal play. Trim the filament so 3mm sticks out of the rack. Heat with a lighter and mash flat.Snap the rack onto the frameAttach the assembly to the controller. Start by sliding the pivot on to the left stick. Clip the back of the frame on, then the front.Glue a 22mm length of metal rod into the "nub". Pass this down through the bearing and frame. There is a step in the nub, have this on the left side.Press the wheel into the bearing and glue the horn on the rod.Crank up the in game sensitivity and enjoy<figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/157076/rich_content/254a4121-ac70-418d-a943-07f5bc9c39a4/thumbs/cover/800x533/jpg/ps5_manual_01.webp"></figure>

Playstation 5 Controller Mini Wheel

Tools - Gadgets

t.schafer

A model of the queen elizibeth tower that i have created in sketchup. Model should not require any supports but use your own judgement regarding brims dependant upon your setup.

BIG BEN (Queen Elizibeth Tower)

Miniatures - Architecture 

GekoPrime

I tried another spool winder but found it finicky and delicate.I designed this winder from scratch to be simple and robust, using the same self reversing leadscrew mechanism found on industrial cable windersWhy pick this model:<ul><li>Prints on a single build plate</li><li>Doesn't require heat set inserts or exotic hardware</li><li>Fusion and STEP files are available, remixes welcomed</li><li>Generous clearances, simple mechanisms</li><li>Designed to be a tool, not a project</li></ul>Print time:<ul><li>~500 grams of filament</li><li>~22 hours on Bambu Lab X1</li><li>~5 minute assembly</li><li>~2 minute spool transfer</li></ul>Hardware requirements:<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/s?k=608+bearings" rel="nofollow noopener">14x 608 skate bearings</a></li><li>A scrap of PTFE tubing</li><li>An electric screwdriver or drill with <a target="_blank" href="https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-MAXFIT-3-5-in-2-Philips-Bit-DWA3PH2MF/309474882" rel="nofollow noopener">a bit cut from ¼ inch hex stock</a> (most <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/ITP1201-SCRWDRVNG-2IN-1-IMPAC/dp/B01LZZ7AOS/" rel="nofollow noopener">cheap quick change Philips bits</a> in the US fit this requirement)</li></ul>Print settings:<ul><li>Any. I used "0.16mm Optimal" in BambuSlicer with 5% adaptive cubic infill </li><li>Use 100% concentric infill for spindle_male_driven</li><li>Try the STLs if you have a problem with the 3mf files. I’ve added (xN) to each file name so you know how many to print</li></ul>Materials:<ul><li>Any. I used Polyterra and iiidmax PLA+</li><li>Use TPU for tpu_consumable_wiper_blade. I used Priline 98a. The wiper blades aren’t 100% required but they help keep the windings nice and tight</li></ul>Assembly and usage:<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://youtu.be/DxgkYDrRK-U" rel="nofollow noopener">Demo video</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://youtu.be/-Hy69YwRLBw" rel="nofollow noopener">Assembly video</a></li><li>The side that says “Pastamatic" needs to face outwards, away from the spool</li><li>The filament needs to come in under the target spool, like this: O____O<ul><li>[not like this: O‾”‾”‾”O]</li></ul></li><li>The drill/driver needs to run clockwise, as though you're screwing something in</li><li>Accelerate slowly until the winder gets started</li></ul>Change log<ul><li>2023-05-28<ul><li>Initial release</li></ul></li><li>2023-05-29<ul><li>Fix a minor export glitch in "leadscrew_tooth"</li><li>Increase the number of “pin_short” instances in the 3mf from 6x to 8x</li></ul></li><li>2023-05-30<ul><li>Add a second prearranged 3mf with two plates to avoid overlap warnings</li><li>Disable autogenerated brims for the single plate 3mf </li><li>Add STLs for people who have trouble with the 3mf</li></ul></li><li>2023-06-03<ul><li>Add a ring to passive_target_cradle to prevent the far end of the target spool lifting if a user lets the the drill hang loose</li><li>Add a pin to driven_target_cradle prevent the leadscrew popping out</li><li>Fix a minor clearance issue where a dovetail didn't fit quite right</li></ul></li><li>2023-09-30<ul><li>Reduce chamfer on the crossbars to prevent them falling over when bed adhesion is poor</li><li>Add some holes to the crossbars to make them easier to screw down</li><li>Add some popular acessories to the all-in-one .3mf</li><li>Add a printable spool to the all-in-one .3mf</li></ul></li></ul>How to contribute:<ul><li>Post your make, it keeps me motivated to improve the model when I see people using it!</li><li>Post your feedback, idea or remix in the comments!</li><li>There are a few improvements and accessories in development as remixes, check those out if you‘re up for the alpha/beta tester experience<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/498743-pastamatic-37-mm-motor-mount" rel="nofollow noopener">Adapter for 37mm gear motor</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/556405-pastamatic-filament-spool-winder-modifications-bra" rel="nofollow noopener">Source spool holder for 5 KG spools</a></li></ul></li></ul>Credits:<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@MiklosKiszely_486882" rel="nofollow noopener">@MiklosKiszely_486882</a> for the original idea</li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@PsychoShaft_33891" rel="nofollow noopener">@Psycho Shaft</a> for the drag/tensioner concept</li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://www.youtube.com/@thang010146" rel="nofollow noopener">thang010146</a> for YouTube videos of mechanical mechanisms, particularly the self reversing leadscrew for a level cable winder</li></ul>&nbsp;

Pastamatic  Filament Spool Winder for Bambu X1C/P1P AMS (level winder with self reversing leadscrew)

Printer QOL

Zurlingo-3D

Articulated Shark Fidget Toy V2.0&nbsp;*A new version of a previously featured shark model*&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/379935/2023-12-30_fbbb38ba10332.gif"></figure>Features:<ul><li>Fully articulated body</li><li>Opening mouth with sharp teeth</li><li>Strong design</li><li>Pre painted print profiles included</li></ul>&nbsp;Updates In Version 2.0:<ul><li>The teeth have now been completely re designed to ensure a quality print.</li><li>The shark can now be scaled down - (The pictured prints are at 60% scale and flawless)</li><li>Faster print time than V1.0 - The new teeth save a lot of retractions over the old design.</li><li>The shark has been completely re painted for optimal speed and quality.</li><li>Less waste than V1.0</li><li>Slightly tighter tolerances on the jaw hinge. This allows the mouth to stay open or closed under its own friction.</li></ul>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;This shark prints super easily with no support required.&nbsp;A great piece to show off what a 3D printer can do!&nbsp;Extra Info:The mouth is designed to print shut with the top set of teeth acting as support for the upper jaw and head.&nbsp;Post Print:In order for the mouth to open, you simply need to snip where the teeth meet with a pair of side cutters (or similar). The lower jaw should then move with a little encouragement. This joint on the jaw gets quite stiff at 60% scale and does require a bit of force to break free the first time.&nbsp;You must cut the teeth manually. Please don't try and force the mouth open as you will most likely break multiple teeth in the process. It usually only takes 1 or 2 cuts and then the rest of the teeth then snap in exactly the right place on their own.&nbsp;The mouth can stay closed if you want, so skip this step if that's your preference.&nbsp;This version will completely alleviate any issues faced with printing V1.0 - If you had an unsuccessful attempt at that one, then please try this new version! I'm sure you'll be pleasantly surprised :P&nbsp;Thanks for looking!&nbsp;-Please rate the print profiles and share pictures of your makes :) - I'd love to see them!&nbsp;&nbsp;Follow me to stay updated with my latest models!&nbsp;&nbsp;Here's a sneak peek at my next design….&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/379935/2023-12-30_8d0dfb043936d.png">(Print in place fidget Crossbow)

*NEW* Articulated Shark Fidget Toy V2.0

Toys

Hart 3D Prints

Very Helpful and if you use a good color filament makes your desk look way better. You can print the drawers all as one or separate.You don’t need supports onInfill any higher than 15&nbsp;If you want to have a monkey pen holder next to it <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/249433?from=search" rel="nofollow noopener">click here</a><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000249384/design/2024-03-13_233f8de7761b9.webp">

Desk Organizer

Office

Josh-3D

[Intro]An A1 mini version of the Scifi crated I had previously created! Remodeled from scratch to fit the A1 Mini&#39;s bed size, while still retaining the looks of the original. This one has a full flip top! And includes magnets to help keep the lid closed and the choice of a knob or a key to keep it secure.&nbsp;This crate follows the same ideas and goals as the first one. Aiming to be a model that was bigger than the printers build volume, but didn&#39;t feel like just a chopped up to fit model. Also to make it fun and stylish! While still remaining practical.&nbsp;[Community Spotlight]<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/@mjrdcrker" rel="nofollow noopener">mjrdcrker </a>has made some 3d printable m3 nuts to help reduce the external hardware cost! Check them out <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/459843#profileId-368189" rel="nofollow noopener">HERE</a>. &nbsp;&nbsp;[What you&#39;ll need]&nbsp;Featured Filament: Bambu PLA Matte Lemon Yellow &amp; Bambu PLA Basic Blue Gray Bambu PLA Basic Bronze, Gold &amp; Bambu PLA Matte Charcoal&nbsp;Tools:Hex Driver/Alen Wrench #3Flat head screwdriverFile for cleaning up edges where the brim is used, or whichever tool you&#39;d prefer for the job.Drill bits for clearing out holesSome sort of pointy tool and/or tweezers for clearing out the pockets for the m3 nuts after the holes have been cleared&nbsp;Hardware:Screws1 - M3x6 - Used for the latch14 M3x8 - 2 used for the latch, 12 for the sides12 M3x12-16 - Used to attach the sides to the mid section. 12mm to 16mm screws work.2 M3x16 - Used for the hinges!24 M3 NutsMagnets4 4x6mm magnets Here&#39;s a few sources! <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075PMYRFT" rel="nofollow noopener">Amazon US 1</a>, <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/Hyoocct-Decorative-Magnets-Whiteboard-Refrigerator/dp/B0C99NPBS4/ref=sr_1_3?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.FHDJ0oqOVxvWcW1x95_xHo2MW_YBNVZR7aWRaQYLpE3grQUtv0WGjgnHvXRgNq3rnODupeRRTnaORbJSTkeJhUlnWBUziN9bBpPsSSRaO9WcXrywYt3pVaUMfvKpuUiuCNxuTfH1iH6cxOEkrMbGvs7CbXCdLMFXYt_adOTHK3oK9u_4Lh4A6V7IQrd0RHFdZt6vZzSD5n60Bx1GTPvjDLIIoX1d8WlgDMyeE22j6YA.TMWFX8yKk1vTMb3GPUUZAs5LPzZLguMFGHwrWC67jCI&amp;dib_tag=se&amp;keywords=4x6mm+magnet&amp;qid=1713635375&amp;sr=8-3" rel="nofollow noopener">Amazon US 2</a>, <a target="_blank" href="https://suprememagnets.com/products/neodymium-magnet-4x6mm-disc" rel="nofollow noopener">SuperMagnets</a>, <a target="_blank" href="https://dev.apexmagnets.com/magnets/4mm-x-6mm-cylinders-neodymium-magnet" rel="nofollow noopener">Apex Magnets</a>&nbsp;[Assembly]First we&#39;ll want to prepare the pieces once they&#39;ve been printed. We&#39;ll want to drill out all of the holes. The holes were capped off in key locations to help get a cleaner print.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 47.57%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000375579/design/2024-03-16_1e2a22250a916.png"></figure>In the mid sections, we&#39;ll have 8 holes on each side to drill out. Be careful not to go too far in, as we only want to clear out for the M3 Nut pockets. Once we have the holes drilled out, clear out the pockets and make sure they are as free from debris as you can get them. Insert the M3 Nuts now and make sure they are firmly pressed into place. They can be a little loose, so may fall out if you jiggle the model around too much.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 53.2%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000375579/design/2024-03-16_62ffdf5307b5a.png"></figure>Before we move on to the end sections, we&#39;ll want to install the latch. You can do this at any point, but it&#39;s easiest to do before the main box is assembled. USe a M3x6 screw for the lower section. To screw the latch/knob together, we&#39;ll use two M3x8 screws!<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 54.41%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000375579/design/2024-03-16_fc03d5936c46.png"></figure>On the end sections, drill out the holes as indicated. There will be 9 holes on either side to clear out. While we&#39;re here, we&#39;ll also want to insert the M3 nuts into their seated beds. We can do this later, but it&#39;ll be much easier to do it now before we start assembling everything. Make sure to press them in as much as you can.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 52.78%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000375579/design/2024-03-16_677422314cf9a.png"></figure>Now we&#39;ll start attaching the sides to the mid sections. Use M3x12-16 screws! I mean, you can use from sizes 12 to 16mm long. 12 is the minimum! For the hinges, use M3x16mm screws! We want that little extra length, for sure. Make sure not to over-tighten the screws as it can deform the plastic and cause troubles with the fit!<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 52.07%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000375579/design/2024-03-16_5e88ab0baf27.png"></figure>For the hinge, we&#39;ll want to make sure the screw is in all the way. If it doesn&#39;t feel like it&#39;s all the way in just by pushing it, then screw it in to help guide it past any points of friction that might be holding it up. Along with the screw plugs for the ends, there should have been two little bars which we&#39;ll insert into the holes for the hinge screws, to help keep them firmly secure.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 50.71%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000375579/design/2024-03-16_adc2516606597.png"></figure>We&#39;ll attach the end caps using M3x8 screws! This can be a little fiddly, as the clearances are tight for the depth of the screws. You may need to press the M3 nut in a little more to help it catch the threads of the screw. There will be 6 screws on either side.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 55.38%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000375579/design/2024-03-16_08297f81c7a8e.png"></figure>Use a flat headed screw driver to install the screw plugs. Careful not to over tighten them!<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 54.28%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000375579/design/2024-03-16_2b6946d6f537f.png"></figure>Lastly, we&#39;ll install the magnets! I&#39;ve adjusted the clearence on this model so should be easier than previous models I&#39;ve done that use these magnets. Press them in on one side, using like a screw driver to help guide them. Then just put the magnets for the other side ontop of the ones you just inserted and press the lid down to press everything into place!<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 52.13%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000375579/design/2024-03-16_82972264a633.png"></figure>That&#39;s it! Enjoy!&nbsp;-------If you like my work, consider showing your love by <a target="_blank" href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/josh3d" rel="nofollow noopener">Buying me a coffee</a>. Additionally, if you&#39;re looking to sell prints of my design, please check out my <a target="_blank" href="https://www.patreon.com/josh3d/" rel="nofollow noopener">Patreon</a> page for more information.