mills3dprints

RevHazlett

A friend of mine has commissioned me to make her a few light boxes in trade for some dresses for my daughter. Her niece loves Fortnite so I took a look around at what&#39;s here on MW and didn&#39;t see anything I liked so I made my own up. She told me her neice loves purple, so I used that instead of black (and the face is a little thicker than normal to account for less opaque material).&nbsp;My critera were:<ul><li>A very low density matrix style face</li><li>Independent zone for bias (wall) lighting</li><li>Minimal non-printed hardware</li></ul>What I came up with is a three-piece light box that has a face, a base, and an insert (what I&#39;m calling the “midplate”). There&#39;s a grand total of six color swaps between all three pieces, which print on two separate plates. You&#39;ll need a warm white, opaque (I used purple), and transparent/natural filament (I love <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08BXLYZGD/" rel="nofollow noopener">FilaCube HT-PLA+ Natural</a> for this!).<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000474026/design/2024-05-24_0baa8fee381c9.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;Throw <a target="_blank" href="https://install.wled.me/" rel="nofollow noopener">WLED</a> on your D1 and make sure it boots. I always suggest mocking your installation up before soldering and assembly just to save time troubleshooting later. I used 0.15.0-b3, if you want to use my configurations below.&nbsp;IMPORTANTI draw attention to it in the print profile but I want to mention it here as well: &#34;transparent&#34; filaments print clearer when printed hot and slow. In this I have two filament profiles for my natural filament - one that prints with a 15mm³/s MVS for a fogged-glass effect, and one that prints with a 5mm³/s for a much clearer result. I did not force a slow linear speed on the band object itself and instead chose to rely on a filament profile to force the material to print slower. When you apply your own filament profiles to this print, that may be lost so if you want clearer walls please double-check this! Using a faster filament profile will create a more opaque and diffusing band - which may or may not be desirable!<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000474026/design/2024-05-26_1a61e896d08d3.png"></figure>Despite the high wall speeds, the filament profile slows these lines down for maximum clarity.&nbsp;Print the base and midplate out - in my profile both share a build plate and print by object, incurring only two color swaps. On the midplate, wrap some <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08GSCJPMD/" rel="nofollow noopener">WS2812B LEDs</a> around the outside of the standoff and apply two rows of the LEDs equally spaced out across the top. Using 60/m LEDs that gave me 28 around the sidewall and 26 (two rows of 13) across the face. This is in total just less than 1 meter of LEDs and at peak consumes ~4.2W (or ~840mA), so a 1A phone charger is fine for this light.&nbsp;LED TIPS:<ul><li>Make sure you test-fit the strip before pulling the adhesive backing off of it. Know where you want to line it up and how you want to set it before you ruin the strength of the adhesive strip by having to pull it off and reposition it several times.</li><li>Wiping the print down with an alcohol prep pad before sticking them on will help them last longer (let it dry!).</li><li>For the face I cut my strip at 13 long and soldered two short jumper wires on it so it could easily be continued on the second row while packing in as many LEDs as possible.</li></ul>I ran the data wire for the side walls to GPIO 1 (&#34;TX&#34;) and the data wire for the face through the hole to GPIO 5 (&#34;D1&#34;) on a <a target="_blank" href="https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805831695231.html" rel="nofollow noopener">Wemos D1 Mini v3</a>. By mistake I put my standoffs in upside-down, so the D1 goes in upside down as well - make sure your wires poke out the bottom of the D1! The D1 screws in using two M2.3x5 self-tapping screws. Solder all your 5V+ and GND together, give &#39;em a little heat shrink to prevent shorts.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000474026/design/2024-05-24_df3d83afdd05.jpg"></figure>For power, one of the normal <a target="_blank" href="https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805486758777.html" rel="nofollow noopener">snap-in USB-C</a> connectors fits with a little finesse (I squeeze the prongs in with a pair of needle-nose pliers and gently wiggle it in), and I used a leftover power coupling from some other project just so I could pull the two pieces completely apart (this is optional but convenient).<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000474026/design/2024-05-24_e2fa392acc7b08.jpg"></figure>From there, final assembly is literally a snap. Tuck your wires out of the way and lay the right end of the midplate in between the lip of the clear wall and the retainer notch.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000474026/design/2024-05-24_5a10372b7f8838.jpg"></figure>Then gently push the left end (where the wires are) down until it clicks under it&#39;s retaining notch. You can gently push out on the wall of the base if it helps, but do not push too hard and risk breaking the opaque and transparent walls from each other!<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000474026/design/2024-05-24_19f24cf371824.jpg"></figure>The face plate has four little retainers along it&#39;s cardinal axes, just gently push it in to place and you&#39;re done!<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000474026/design/2024-05-24_2390280bc07b6.gif"></figure>&nbsp;Attached are the config and presets I used, renamed to .txt since I can&#39;t upload .json. Just rename them and remove “.txt” to upload them in to your light. When setting up your patterns, make use of the “mirror” function for the faceplate as it can make left-to-right sweeps instead of circular chasing patterns.

Fortnite Light Box with Independent Bias Lighting

fortnight

CuhRazy

My print profile has worked incredibly well for me. Granted every machine is different it should be a good starting point for helping to reduce wisps. Any questions please let me know! Thanks! If you want to request a light box please send me a message!

Baltimore Orioles Light Box

baitmore 

seadoo

R C 3D

PRINT PROFILES: The following are the only print profiles tested and approved by me. They are listed by the name I've given them in the print profile description. I can not guarantee the quality of any print profile posted by anyone other than myself.<ol><li>BLV Remix FR (v2)</li><li>BLV Remix FL (v2)</li><li>BLV Remix RR (v2)</li><li>BLV Remix RL (v2)</li><li>BLV Remix DRAWER</li><li>BLV Remix ACCDRAWER</li><li>BLV Remix Shorty (No Drawers)</li><li>Riser v3</li><li>Gasket</li></ol>&nbsp;SUMMARY: This is a remix of the BLV Riser. The intent was to simplify the assembly, print easier, and with less pieces/material. The original uses close to 2.7kg and this one uses 1.5kg for the primary body, the drawers are between 100-220g, the gasket is 60g of TPU. I will leave the original files in the raw files repository, but will be removing the print profiles that are outdated. The riser maintains the LED light strip sockets, the drawers, the build plate slot, and the high and low shelves for the top glass. I've added a gasket that will work with both the newer and older models. For the older models, you may need to glue it in place because the design intent was to drop it into a small recess, which is only present on v3. &nbsp;&nbsp;Ideally, use PETG or any other filament with a higher temperature resistance. PLA will deform over time. With that said, I use a PLA version on one of my printers which only prints PLA and I have no issues with it so far. I would recommend TPU for the gasket.&nbsp;&nbsp;This riser has a few versions:<ol><li>The first version is the original remix with drawers.</li><li>The second version is the remix without the drawers. Additionally, this version has a sloped inner edge to mount an LED strip at an angle for optimal lighting. I bored out the rear hole slightly so you can terminate the led strip in the rear and run the cable out of the back.</li><li>The third version (v3) is the original remix, but with a slot for a gasket and sloped edges inside for mounting an LED strip at a slight angle.</li></ol>&nbsp;Printing/Assembly:If you decide not to use the print profiles, these are the settings I used.&nbsp;<ul><li>Global Settings:<ul><li>0.2mm Layer Height</li><li>3 Wall Loops</li><li>Enable Supports: Normal (Auto)<ul><li>Snug</li><li>On Build Plate Only</li></ul></li></ul></li></ul>&nbsp;Assembly:The assembly can be done in a matter of seconds. The joints are made with dovetails and a fairly tight fit for a nice press-fit application.&nbsp;<ol><li>Assemble the front two pieces</li><li>Assemble the rear two pieces</li><li>Assemble the front and rear halves together</li></ol>&nbsp;That's all there is to it. Follow my facebook page, RC3D, for giveaways and entry details as well as my latest models.&nbsp;CHANGELOG:&nbsp;UPDATE 12/22/2023:Added v3. This version includes the same sloped edges that the shorty does, as well as a slot for the gasket. I've also included the gasket since the original BLV has nubs that won't work right with this one. The gasket is designed to simply drop into a recess, so it will work on older versions, but you may have to glue it in place.&nbsp;UPDATE 11/25/2023:Added a second version without the drawers. Removed several print profiles and re-organized the files.&nbsp;UPDATE 10/31/2023:I revised the drawer insert and the drawer itself. The new version is very similar, but required just a few changes in order to work probably with the new drawer insert. The insert now fits into the side of the drawer as well, so you'd insert the piece and slide it into the side. This helps avoid issues with alignment and helps position the insert correctly. I also remove the accessories tab from the insert as it made no sense in this application. Instead, the other half of the drawer will just be empty.&nbsp;UPDATE 10/27/2023:Update the insert to fit better, revised the drawer for better printing and fit. The insert and the drawer need to be super glued and held in place for a minute or so (I used clamps) so the bottom sticks to the existing drawer and doesn't snag the edges when the drawer is inserted.&nbsp;UPDATE 10/20/2023:Uploaded an insert to convert the drawers to one similar to the original model. Simply drops in and was intended to just glue in place. I haven't yet tested it, but it's going on the printer tonight so if you'd rather wait I will update this description when mines complete.&nbsp;INITIAL RELEASE 10/15/2023:&nbsp;The design is based on the popular AMS riser by Benlevi. My goal was to reduce the number of pieces, complexity of assembly, and ease of printing. The result is this 4-piece body with dovetail interlocks and 2 drawers. I will be improving on this and am currently printing the latest iteration, but its here for you to try as well. If you find any issues, let me know and I'll make it right.The riser has slots on top for the AMS feet, high and low shelves for the glass Lid, build plate holder, and two drawers.&nbsp;ASSEMBLY:&nbsp;Assemble the front two pieces, then the rear two pieces, then assemble the resulting front and rear halves together. The sequence is important. I glued the pieces for peace of mind, but I'm not sure it's totally necessary. The pieces should only slide together one way.&nbsp;PRINT SETTINGS:&nbsp;• 3 walls• 15% gyroid infill• Supports, snug auto, on build plate only (this is for a small lip at the bottom that will not be visible when installed.)

AMS Riser Remix

Tennessee light box 

ildarcheg

Box: AMMO BOX 9mm AMMUNITION STORAGE 25 ROUNDS AMMO CRATE 9 mm&nbsp;Includes: - base (lower) - lid (upper) - insert - front plate multicolor - front plate single colorMaterials PLA, PETG, ABS, CFMulticolor Vs Single Color If you have a single-color printer like Ender 3 use MONO version (lid and front plate). If you have a multicolor printer like Bambu with AMS use the non-mono version (lid and front plate) and paint in Slicer.&nbsp;<h2>100+ CALIBERS AVAILABLE ON CULTS3D 2 DESIGNS</h2><h2><a target="_blank" href="https://cults3d.com/en/design-collections/ildarcheg/bbox" rel="nofollow noopener">BBOX</a></h2><figure class="image"><a href="https://cults3d.com/en/design-collections/ildarcheg/bbox" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/812779/2024-04-04_2cc9e9200b0068.png"></a></figure>&nbsp;<h2><a target="_blank" href="https://cults3d.com/en/design-collections/ildarcheg/abox" rel="nofollow noopener">ABOX</a></h2><figure class="image"><a href="https://cults3d.com/en/design-collections/ildarcheg/abox" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/812779/2024-04-04_49d3cd51ef544.png"></a></figure>   Following calibers are also available: 9mm 9 mm 40 S&amp;W 40s&amp;w 40sw 45 AUTO 45 ACP 45auto 45acp 6.5 Creedmoor 6.5 CM 243 WIN 243win 5.56 556 NATO 270 WIN 270win 308 WIN 308win 300 BLK 300blk Blackout 8x51R 8x51mm R Lebel 41 REM MAG 41 Mag 6mm ARC 6mm 6.8 REM SPC 6.8spc 224 Valkyrie 224 22-250 REM 22-250rem 450 Bushmaster 450 30-06 SPRG 30-06 Springfield 38 SPECIAL 38 S&amp;W Special 357 MAGNUM 357mag 10mm 10 mm 223 REM 223rem 7.62x51mm NATO 7.62x51 30 Carbine 7.62x33mm FN 5.7x28mm 5.7x28 7.62x39mm 7.62x39 22 LR 22 LR Long Rifle 350 Legend 9x43mm 17 HMR 17hmr 22 WMR 22wmr 44 REM MAG 44 Mag 45 Colt 45colt 6.5 PRC 6.5prc 6mm Creedmoor 6mm 300 WIN MAG 300 win 28 Nosler 28nosler 7MM REM MAG 7mm 6.8 Western 6.8western 380 ACP 380 auto 300 WSM 300wsm 8x57 mm Mauser 8x57mm 8x60 mm 8x60mm 7.5x55mm Swiss 7.5x55 6.5x55mm Swedish 6.5x55 357 SIG 357sig 30-30 WIN 30-30win 9x18 Makarov 9x18mm 7x57mm Mauser 7x57 32 ACP 32 auto 50 AE 50 Action Express Desert Eagle 32 S&amp;W LONG 32 WadCutter 375 H&amp;H Magnum 375 Holland &amp; Holland 9.3x62 mm Mauser 9.3x62mm 300 PRC 300prc 7mm RSAUM 7mm Rem SAUM 500 S&amp;W Magnum  500sw 7.62x54R 7.62x54R Mosin 45-70 GOVT 45-70govt 300 RUM 300RUM 260 REM 260rem 22-243 22-243 Middlestead 44-40 44-40 WCF Winchester 280 REM 280 Remington 458 SOCOM 458socom 303 BRITISH 303british 25-06 REM 25-05rem 280 ACKLEY 280 AI 338 LAPUA 338lapua 338 WIN MAG 338winmag 220 SWIFT 220swift 32 French 7.65×20mm Long 7mm-08 Remington 7mm08 9.3x74R 9.3x74mm 7x64mm 7x64 mm 300 Savage 300savage 444 Marlin 444marlin 35 Whelen 35whelen 460 S&amp;W Magnum 460SW 454 Casull 454casull 6.5 Grendel 65grendel 270 WSM 270wsm 8x68S 8x68 S 26 Nosler 26nosler 300 WBY MAG 300 Weatherby Magnum 256 WIN 256 Winchester Magnum 7mm PRC 7mm PRC 25 ACP 25ACP 222 REM 222rem 300 NORMA MAG 300 NORMA MAGNUM 6mm Dasher 6mm 410 ga 410 ga 22 Hornet 22 hornet 38-55 Win 38-55 WCF 7x33 Sako 7x33 6mm XC 6mmXC 375 Ruger 375Ruger 7mm BR Rem 7mm Benchrest Remington 22 Savage 22savage 250 Savage 250Savage 7mm WSM 7mm 30-40 Krag 30 US Army 50 Beowulf Beowulf 7.62x25 Tokarev 7.62×25mm Tokarev Custom Lids Feel free to reach me if you are interested in custom lids--------- ammo box, ammo crate, ammo storage, ammunition box, ammunition storage, ammunition crate, 3d print, stl, 3d model, 9mm, 9 mm

Ammo Box 9mm 25 rounds Ammunition Storage Ammo

spiderman night light 

toothletmetoday

Get ready for Christmas with this simple Christmas tree fairy light holder. Easy to print. You can use what filament you want. Perfect fit with a cheap 2m/20led fairy light. You can hide the cables and the houseing of the flat battery in the base of the modell. &nbsp;I used this lights from amazon but you can find on aliexpress too. &nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Waterproof-Decorations-Christmas-Weddings-Barbecues/dp/B0BKT562RQ/ref=pd_ci_mcx_mh_mcx_views_0?pd_rd_w=lxeOG&content-id=amzn1.sym.f81e69b0-8d25-4d0a-a0ba-d47e95a31f14%3Aamzn1.symc.ca948091-a64d-450e-86d7-c161ca33337b&pf_rd_p=f81e69b0-8d25-4d0a-a0ba-d47e95a31f14&pf_rd_r=X3T94G9298PNNKHRN3K6&pd_rd_wg=6uAvl&pd_rd_r=e5f120d1-c75a-4aa9-b927-d1b287b68e6c&pd_rd_i=B0BKT562RQ" rel="nofollow noopener">Amazon</a><a target="_blank" href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005284339594.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.107.15521948KKWWJE&algo_pvid=95e5371c-674f-4829-8a4b-004fb06b3b69&algo_exp_id=95e5371c-674f-4829-8a4b-004fb06b3b69-53&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21USD%211.32%210.81%21%21%211.32%21%21%402101ea8c16982238877861349e3844%2112000032487576233%21sea%21HU%21172681489%21&curPageLogUid=5uesu0qD7LdR" rel="nofollow noopener">Aliexpress</a>&nbsp;If you want to print this modell, you can use my 3mf file. It has the correct orientation and position for the max size. I'll appriciate you if you use the bambu handy for starting your print.&nbsp;As a request, I made a star shape holder too. Maybe if you interested in, you can check it on the link. <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/hu/models/53070#profileId-54897" rel="nofollow noopener">link</a>&nbsp;--------------------------&nbsp;2023.11.01 edit…&nbsp;Some people requesting that, so I made a version with a bigger base where you can hide 2*AA or 3*AA battery boxes and the unnecessary wire of the light. I have a battery box wich has the switch on the top of the box not on the side, so i made a clearance for this type of boxes too. I made the hook a slightly bigger, so you can mount easily that rope type lights (what you can see on the picture) or you can use a longer light (3m long works very well too) becouse you have more space on the hook to mount the wires. The 3mf file contain the correct and i think the only orientation what you can use to printig in the biggest possible size on a bambulab printer. &nbsp;--------------------------&nbsp;2023.11.03&nbsp;For request i added for the 3*AA battery box the wire channel to the base front and i adjusted the orientation the modell because the X1 users can have issue with the starting routine goes into the modell's first layer.&nbsp;Thanks!

Christmas tree with fairy light

christmas tree

dangles_

VERSION 2Changes made to the main design and have been confirmed to be sturdier and easier to get the blade in. Old versions have been removed and print profiles for main model and shorter model have been added. Version 2 also includes a “push stick” in the profile to help safely install the blade. &nbsp;About the ModelCuter that makes cutting those annoying sheets of Christmas gift paper rolls smoother and cleaner. &nbsp;PartsDesign is based around a #11 Hobby Blade. Packs of a lot of these can be found on amazon for very cheap. &nbsp;AssemblyOnce printed and blades have been acquired, you can *carefully* slide a blade into the slot. Using the printed “push stick” to push the blade further in. The lower hole is designed to allow you to use a small screwdriver to pull the blade down into place (as well as take it out).