michaelkburns

Troysterr

<h2>Summary</h2>This is a slightly modified version of <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/3129580120" rel="nofollow noopener">reddadsteve&#39;s</a> brilliant model of Wile E. Coyote that has been resized to fit the dimensions of a pinewood derby car. I&#39;ve taken a few stabs at this and failed every time…and I can&#39;t say that I can recommend that anyone actually print and build this model. Not because there is anything wrong with the original model, but because, by sizing it down to 56% of the original size, I made it extremely difficult to put together, especially the tiny parts like the blacks of the eyes and the toenails.&nbsp;But, hey, I managed to build it myself, so I proved it can be done. If you&#39;re up for a challenge, you want a pinewood derby car that is truly unique, and you don&#39;t mind losing the race (no way will this thing go fast enough to win), go for it!&nbsp;I&#39;ve included reddadsteve&#39;s original instructions in the Documentation.<h3>What is a &#34;pinewood derby car shell&#34;?</h3>The <a target="_blank" href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pinewood_derby" rel="nofollow noopener">pinewood derby</a> is an event created by the Boy Scouts many years ago. Each scout is given a pinewood derby kit typically consisting of a block of wood with slots for axles, 4 wheels, and 4 nails to be used as axles. The scout (and his dad, usually) will then carve the block of wood into the shape of a car, paint it and apply stickers, install the wheels on the axles, and then race it at the &#34;derby&#34;, which involves a sloped track with a timekeeping apparatus.&nbsp;An official scout derby will usually require that the parts in the kit be used for cars entered in the derby. Other organizations (including workplaces) often hold derbies, too, and some of them require the use of the parts in the box, including the block of wood.&nbsp;These &#34;pinewood derby car shells&#34; are intended to be used with an official derby wood block, cut down to size, along with the axles and wheels included in the kit. A printable model of the shaped wood block is provided. You can either use the printed model or use it to accurately cut an official wood block down to size.<h2>Print Settings</h2>Notes:<ul><li>The parts in the .3mf file are all resized to 56%. All of the original .stl files (the ones created by reddadsteve) are 100%, while the ones I modified/created (cart_leg x2.stl, cart_top.stl, platform.stl) are 56%. So if you plan to print the parts from the .stl files and not the .3mf, be sure to resize the original parts to 56%.</li><li>The instructions provided in Documentation may be helpful.</li></ul><h2>Post-Printing</h2>Just super glue all the parts together.<h3>Weights</h3>You can add tungsten weights to the holes in the back of the base to end up right at 5 oz. Playing with different infills and weights can get you close to the ideal front/rear balance.

Wile E. Coyote (Pinewood Derby Car Shell)

awesome stuff

HpInvent

Here is a super cute easter Bowl for you to print ;) Who can't fall in love with this bunny holding a egg bowl to put in your sweets :D Unfortunately I had no sweets laying around so I had to use some filament poop for the picture :P  I put a modifier for the base in the print profile to give it a little more weight to stabelize the model.Can be printed without supportPerfect for coloring with the children for Easter ;)&nbsp;IN THE LINK BELOW YOU CAN ALSO FIND THE CUTE MODELS OF THE CONTEST BANNER!! I have a bunch more cute easter decoration in my profile that is not part of this contest!!!! So don't forget to print his cute little friends and my other models: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/3624704578" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/u/3624704578</a> <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/3624704578" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/676244/2024-03-08_a8a626fc04c78.png"></a> <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/194458" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/676244/2024-02-23_539193d8507ba.png"></a><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/210984" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/676244/2024-02-28_8818bd98777e4.png"></a><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/3624704578" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/676244/2024-02-27_c1e7b8a459e5d.jpg"></a><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/232706" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/676244/2024-03-06_ea517b7dbe741.png"></a>Happy printing!

Cute easter Bunny Bowl holding half egg

Easter

AlFlo3D

Hi folks,&nbsp;I recently found Maker World and wanted to share my recent project as my first upload here.&nbsp;So I present you my version of a pinball enclosure for the nintendo switch console. I took inspiration of the PinSwitch project from SakuraRetroModding you can find here: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/sakuraretromodding/?etsrc=sdt" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.etsy.com/shop/sakuraretromodding/?etsrc=sdt</a>&nbsp;My design doesn't follow the classic look of a pinball table but inherits from it.&nbsp;Setup is pretty simple, but you need a few things (No affiliates):<ul><li>Pro-Micro Arduino Board (That's what I used and fits the mount, not an official one): <a target="_blank" href="https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005003717649243.html" rel="nofollow noopener">https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005003717649243.html</a></li><li>Some wires. Whatever you have, I used 0.32mm² / 22awg</li><li>3x Arcade buttons like those: <a target="_blank" href="https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005005672031620.html" rel="nofollow noopener">https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005005672031620.html</a> (There are many different ones that are the same size and push to fit, they should all work)</li><li>2x M4x6mm screws for the USB bracket (I used hex socket ones DIN912)</li><li>1 flat/slim USB-C to Micro USB cable, to be precise; This one: <a target="_blank" href="https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005004681178075.html" rel="nofollow noopener">https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005004681178075.html</a><ul><li>Choose version “W3R / T2G”! 10cm should be enough, I'd use 15cm for ease of use.</li></ul></li><li>4x Neodym magnets size 4x2 (This is optional for the lid, it does hold on it's own)</li></ul>Additional tools:<ul><li>Soldering Iron for wiring up</li><li>Pliers for cutting and stripping the wires</li><li>Allen key for the m4 screws</li></ul>Software preparations:<ul><li>In order to make it work, I've used this amazing code: <a target="_blank" href="https://github.com/fluffymadness/ATMega32U4-Switch-Fightstick/" rel="nofollow noopener">https://github.com/fluffymadness/ATMega32U4-Switch-Fightstick/</a> </li><li>Simply follow their easy installation guide (Building Instructions) and flash your arduino with the software.</li><li>It basically turns your arduino into a switch pro controller and therefore we can attach it and wire our own buttons to it.</li><li>We use the Left + Right button and the A button. (See wiring diagram)</li><li>On the switch, I've used Pinball FX3. It can run in vertical mode and works perfect. There are other pinball games, but I didn't test them. You can navigate using the touchscreen or simply use your wireless joycons.</li></ul>&nbsp;Build guide:<ol><li>Print all the parts. Remember to use tree supports for the main bodys arduino chamber (See picture provided). Simply use the amazing “Support Painting” function of Bambu Studio</li><li>Mount the Arcade buttons, simply push them in</li><li>Solder ~15cm wires to the - already flashed - arduino board following the wiring diagram (attached images)</li><li>With the wires loosely attached, mount the arduino, simply push it in. USB first into the cutout, then push down on the board.</li><li>Route the wires per wiring diagram, cut to perfect length and solder them to the buttons.</li><li>Route the wires through the 6 provided cutouts above the arduino board and close the chamber by sliding the lid into the slot (See picture)</li><li>Insert the USB-C cable into it's cutout and push it down (You may need to cut some of the shrink tubing for better fit)</li><li>Mount the USB bracket loosely</li><li>You can move the USB-C connector up and down a bit, just be careful not to bend it. Insert the Switch facing up and it's USB-C port facing left. Adjust the USB-C connector until it slides in perfectly.</li><li>Carefully remove the switch again and tighten the bracket.</li><li>Connect the other end of the cable to the arduino.</li><li>You're done.</li></ol>Credits:<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/sakuraretromodding" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.etsy.com/shop/sakuraretromodding</a> for the inspiration</li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://github.com/Palatis" rel="nofollow noopener">https://github.com/Palatis</a> and <a target="_blank" href="https://github.com/fluffymadness" rel="nofollow noopener">https://github.com/fluffymadness</a> without their software this wouldn't be possible</li><li>Nintendo for creating the switch in the first place</li></ul>&nbsp;