Boger

floriandac

j'aime beaucoup la bobine de @chameko小廢物電波塔 le seul soucis était qu'il n'y avait pas suffisamment de trou pour bloquer le filament , du coup j'en et rajouter plusieurs incliner a 45 degrés pour glisse le filament sans trop le plier je conseille d'imprimer en PETG ou ABS pour éviter le déformation los de passage au déshydrateurLes nom de filament sont a télécharger dans le modèle originale

Bambu Lab Reusable Spool Name Remix (hole)

BambuLabs

3DMN

If you appreciate my work, give it a like, and if you love it, consider buying me a coffee to show your support! <a target="_blank" href="https://www.paypal.com/donate?hosted_button_id=BC7SWTMZG92TG" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.paypal.com/donate?hosted_button_id=BC7SWTMZG92TG</a> &nbsp;Step into the enchanting world of Westeros with our meticulously crafted 3D-printed Winterfell from Game of Thrones. Immerse yourself in the intricate details of this iconic castle, meticulously replicated with precision. The Z 214 Y206 Z51 model captures Winterfell's grandeur.&nbsp;This Winterfell model is a true testament to the fusion of art and technology. Display it proudly as a centerpiece in your home or office, and let the spirit of the North resonate through its walls. Whether you're a devoted Game of Thrones fan or an aficionado of intricate craftsmanship, this 3D-printed Winterfell is a must-have collectible.&nbsp;Embrace the magic of Westeros and bring Winterfell to life in your own space. Claim your piece of the Seven Kingdoms!"

Game of Thrones Winterfell Castle

GameOfThrones

DjangoCashflow

Matching Millennium Falcon Kit Card can be found <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/398440#profileId-299959" rel="nofollow noopener">here</a> Elevate your Millennium Falcon display with the meticulously designed Landing Gear Kit Card, a perfect complement to the iconic starship model. Designed with the discerning hobbyist in mind, each piece interlocks with grace and ease, requiring no tools or adhesive, just like the main Kit Card model.  &nbsp;Features:Ingenious Fit: Created with precision and care, the landing struts are designed to integrate seamlessly into the main body, mirroring the Falcon’s own seamless construction.Enhanced Realism: Each strut is crafted to match the Falcon&#39;s aesthetic, from its rugged durability to the distinct lines that have captivated fans for generations.Optimized for Your Printer: Like the Millennium Falcon Kit Card, the landing gear is tailored for a 0.4mm nozzle.Simple Assembly: Continuing the tradition of the Kit Card series, the landing gear assembles with satisfying simplicity, clicking into place with the kind of precision that would make a droid envious.Display with Pride: The Landing Gear Kit Card not only adds a touch of authenticity to your model but also provides a sturdy base, transforming your Millennium Falcon into an imposing display piece.  &nbsp;Finalize your masterpiece with this Landing Gear Kit Card, and let your Millennium Falcon take its rightful place, poised in readiness for its next thrilling adventure in a galaxy far, far away.

Millennium Falcon Kit Card Landing Gear

KitKard

Creatività in 3D

<h2>Dragon Head - High definition 0.2 nozzle</h2><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 19.69%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000432714/design/2024-04-17_6766ad464fa35.jpg"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 50.59%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000432714/design/2024-04-17_76f4ee07729b9.png"></figure>&nbsp;High definition Dragon Head perfect for 0.2 nozzle. Copper colored filament: <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.eu/d/51GlVEF" rel="nofollow noopener">https://amzn.eu/d/51GlVEF</a>Removing Supports: To remove the supports, I recommend using a small flat watch screwdriver. To remove the supports in the mouth and not ruin the teeth, I recommend first cutting the opening of the mouth with a cutter and the supports will come off easily by sliding downwards.&nbsp;***See the MAXI version*** <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/509478" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/509478</a> &nbsp;Enjoy

Dragon Head - High definition 0.2 nozzle

Dragons 

linus3d

<h2>Introduction</h2>The <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/13806#profileId-129851" rel="nofollow noopener">3D Printable Jet Engine </a>is great! However, I wanted a turbojet or low bypass turbofan to complement the original. So, I got to work designing the turbojet,<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/477462#profileId-388528" rel="nofollow noopener"> afterburner and variable exhaust nozzle.</a>&nbsp;This conversion uses fewer screws than the original! It adds an additional compressor stage, making the model longer and thinner. The design philosophy matches the original, with hints of the <a target="_blank" href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/General_Electric_J79" rel="nofollow noopener">GE J79</a> visible in the inlet.&nbsp;I designed a <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/477457#profileId-388519" rel="nofollow noopener">stand</a>. Making the jet sit low to the ground. It works great!&nbsp;I made a video and written instructions for assembly. ( Video is more thorough).My print profile uses three colors, but feel free to unleash your creativity.&nbsp;If you don&#39;t yet have the hardware for the Jet Engine, I offer a great kit on <a target="_blank" href="https://linus3d.de/products/jet-engine-components-kit" rel="nofollow noopener">my website</a>. It provides better hardware at a lower cost and greatly supports my work. Thank you.&nbsp;Check out the <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/477462#profileId-388528" rel="nofollow noopener">Afterburner &amp; Variable Nozzle!</a>&nbsp;Happy printing and great success! Message me with any questions!&nbsp;<h3>Tools used for assembly:</h3><ul><li>M2 Screwdriver</li><li>Pliers or anything that can hold nuts</li><li>Plastic Glue</li></ul>&nbsp;<h2>Assembly</h2>&nbsp;<figure class="media"><oembed url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q-FUjxFJqak&amp;list=PL8UJHE2kIJR-gfuExW762FB3cbsvxPOr2&amp;index=1"></oembed></figure>&nbsp;<figure class="table" style="width: 79.7%"><table class="ck-table-resized" style="border: 3px solid hsl(150, 75%, 60%)"><colgroup><col><col></colgroup><tbody><tr><td>Pliers aren&#39;t needed for this step. Drop the nuts into the slots and screw in the bolts.</td><td><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 100%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000477475/design/2024-05-20_a17c81ffcbf94.jpg"></figure></td></tr><tr><td>Use plastic glue. I let the glue dry properly before installing into casing.</td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000477475/design/2024-05-20_497a72db2ac2b.jpg"></figure></td></tr><tr><td>Don&#39;t glue them in place yet! :)</td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000477475/design/2024-05-20_254d558ab4596.jpg"></figure></td></tr><tr><td>Easy…</td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000477475/design/2024-05-20_676037b4e1e44.jpg"></figure></td></tr><tr><td>The bearing will also snap into place.&nbsp;</td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000477475/design/2024-05-20_ce9c5144d1a1b.jpg"></figure></td></tr><tr><td>Easy…</td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000477475/design/2024-05-20_3fa0e4a28d73.jpg"></figure></td></tr><tr><td>Don&#39;t tighten to much. You want even spacing around the inlet.</td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000477475/design/2024-05-20_79e7688b07e24.jpg"></figure></td></tr><tr><td>Easy… (I don&#39;t use glue)</td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000477475/design/2024-05-20_42ea63250832d.jpg"></figure></td></tr><tr><td>Last step… Make sure everything works. Congratulations! Thanks for printing!</td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000477475/design/2024-05-20_a7de2137028fc.jpg"></figure></td></tr><tr><td>Placement of the engine on the stand</td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000477475/design/2024-05-20_481c8f7cac0b1.jpg"></figure></td></tr></tbody></table></figure>&nbsp;Designed by linus3d My website: <a target="_blank" href="https://linus3d.de/" rel="nofollow noopener">https://linus3d.de/</a>

3d Printable Turbojet Engine 

models 

Fletch

Another classic video game that belongs in your game room! Donkey Kong is one of the most recognizable characters and a great game. The frame has a hole in the back for hanging on a wall or you can print out a stand.&nbsp;The platforms, ladders, and fire showed the biggest difference between the 0.2mm nozzle and 0.4mm nozzle.&nbsp;The small pieces can be difficult to print. You really need to have a clean plate and dried filament for those. They press into place on the main model.&nbsp;You can find a stand for displaying on a bookshelf here:<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/456210" rel="nofollow noopener">Frame Display Stand</a>&nbsp;I selected the wrong color for the princess&#39;s hair for my prints. They are orange in the profiles.&nbsp;ColorsBlack - Bambu PLA BlackWhite - Bambu PLA WhiteRed - Bambu PLA RedOrange - Bambu PLA OrangeBlue - Hatchbox PLA BlueTan - Overture PLA Plus BrownDark Brown - Hatchbox PLA BrownPink - Elegoo PLA Pink

Donkey Kong Level 1

Games

Ian Smalley - hueforge

Filament painted print made using HueForge - Filament swaps ONLY, no mmu/ams required&nbsp;5 Color HueForge model. 'Death Star Clock' filament painting made using Bambu and Sunlu filaments.&nbsp;&nbsp;Print at 100% infill with a layer height of 0.04mm with a base layer of 0.24mm(I recommend the following speed settings for the bambu with 0.04 layers, inner walls, outer walls and gap infill - 200mm/s, sparse infill, internal solid infill and top surface - 150mm/s)&nbsp;Filaments Used: PLA Sunlu PLA+ Black Transmission Distance: 0.6 PLA Bambu PLA Matte Dark Blue Transmission Distance: 1 PLA Sunlu PLA+ Blue Transmission Distance: 3.5 PLA Sunlu PLA+ Sky Blue Transmission Distance: 4 PLA Sunlu PLA+ White Transmission Distance: 6&nbsp;Swap Instructions: Start with Black At layer #11 (0.64mm) swap to Dark Blue At layer #12 (0.68mm) swap to Blue At layer #13 (0.72mm) swap to Sky Blue At layer #19 (0.96mm) swap to WhiteAt layer #29 (1.36mm) swap to Black for the rest (or the colour you would like for the frame)&nbsp;This is a filament blending model, I would recommend trying to match the td as close as possible if not using the exact filaments to get the best resultsUse the exact numbers in your slicer to match up properly.The Model is designed to print with 0.4 nozzle.**If re-scaling model make sure not to alter the Z height of the model**&nbsp;add a negative cylinder to the Centre of the model in slicer to create the correct size hole for your movement or alternatively mark the Centre at the rear and drill the required size hole.Link for the movement that I used is listed below but any standard movement will be fine (be sure to check the size of the hands)<a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0BBLXG55S?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1" rel="nofollow noopener">Clock Mechanism Kit, Silent Quartz Clock Mechanisms Quartz Clock Movement Kit Clock Mechanism Parts wite White Clock Hands,Clock Mechanisms with Hands Battery Powered for DIY Clock or Repair Tool : Amazon.co.uk: Home & Kitchen</a> &nbsp;**ALL Ian Smalley's designs are protected by Copyright Law. Downloading does not give you permission to use the files or physical prints for financial gain. If you want a commercial license to Legally sell prints from my designs, you will need a SELLER subscription.**

Death star clock (Filament Painting)

StarWars

martin.taichl

&nbsp;&nbsp;This is a posable model of the ED-209 from the movie Robocop. It is a kit and all the joints are posable.  Default color of the model is grey. so if there is no color code at the end of the model name, it means it is grey. G - grey B - black R - red Y - yellow  The shaft for the flaps are not printed as I used toothpicks.  For the Assembly I recommend to watch the video.    <figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://youtu.be/lpaITmeEYyE"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/lpaITmeEYyE" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure>

Enforcer Droid ED-209

RoboCop

Turbospeed

This was my favorite A1 bucket and was the first one I printed. After having the A1 for some time, I decided to add the top-mount AMS kit and thus could not use my favorite bucket. So I decided to do a quick remix and allow enough clearance for the Z-axis brace but still have a small wrap-around to prevent any shifting during those fast prints. I hope you enjoy it.&nbsp;&nbsp;

A1 Death Star Thermal Exhaust Port Bin - Top Mount Compatible Remix

stuff 

Adam L

Change log:<ul><li>9/12/23: Added photos of my make, and uploaded a STEP version.</li><li>9/13/23 (midnight): Added a multi-part version and instructions. Requires glue, but you only need a black sharpie/paint and single-color printing instead of fancy multi-color printing.</li><li>9/13/23 (actual morning): Drastically improved and simplified instructions and model so that one multi-part model should serve everyone's needs. Updated STEP file too. This also will improve multi-color printing ease and final product significantly due to slicer glitches with the earlier model.</li><li>9/19/23: Smaller head version <a href="https://www.printables.com/model/586822-moopsy-the-cuddly-bone-vampire-from-star-trek-smal" rel="nofollow">now available here</a> for people who prefer this look.</li></ul><a href="https://memory-alpha.fandom.com/wiki/Moopsy" rel="nofollow">Moopsy was first seen in the episode “I Have No Bones Yet I Must Flee” of Star Trek: Lower Decks</a>, where it caused havoc in a galactic menagerie. Moopsy is one of the most terrifying aliens ever introduced in Star Trek, despite its cute appearance.I could not help myself by try to replicate this creature. I'm a total novice at Fusion360, but I tried my best to produce a faithful looking replica… with way too much effort. I actually think it looks pretty decent. Requires some supports, as shown.Printed here in 4-color PLA on my X1C to match the picture shown above from the show. You could probably just print it all one color though and paint it.<h5>Flavor text I made for this critter:</h5>Moopsy is a small, furry alien with big eyes and a round body. It looks harmless and adorable, but it has a hidden ability to launch itself at high speed towards its prey and sink its sharp teeth into them. Moopsy drains the bones of its victim, leaving behind a boneless sack of flesh. Moopsy is very hungry and will chase after any food source relentlessly. <h5>How To Print Multi-color (MMU/AMS):</h5><ul><li>Supports are needed. Sit him on the designed-in flat butt area, as shown.<ul><li>I designed it to minimize the amount of support needed. I used snug supports and PETG as an interface layer, but organic supports should work well here.</li></ul></li><li>0.2 mm layer height. At the top I used variable layer height to go down to 0.12 gradually to get a better top finish, but you can do as you like.</li><li>The color objects have been broken out. Here's my recommended coloring:<ul><li> <img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/580287/rich_content/2a01a18d-267a-4cdb-80aa-f56be408373e/image.png#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%22f926ab09-af90-4d2e-b5fc-7cfe6d6b7e62%22%2C%22w%22%3A1601%2C%22h%22%3A619%7D"></li></ul></li><li>If you can do 5 filaments at once, you can do some neat stuff. Here's my setup with in 4x PLA colors + PETG as PLA support interface with snug supports.<ul><li><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/580287/rich_content/8003b796-275f-4b89-a6dd-eeed11ec2936/image.png#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%22b534ca7e-db7d-4374-8d04-68877fe9f4d5%22%2C%22w%22%3A1521%2C%22h%22%3A836%7D"></li></ul></li></ul><h5>How To Print Multi-color (one color at a time):</h5><ul><li>This version makes it easy even if you're bad at using a sharpie/paintbrush to get a good looking result… but you have to print little bits of colored plastic and glue them in place.</li><li>All the parts you need are in the same 3MF file. I suggest printing it so that the eye and mouth parts are part of the main body because the eye and mouth parts would be a little hard to get the fit in perfectly.. but you can try if you like! <ul><li>To accomplish this, delete the little eye bits and tounge from the model so you get a setup that looks like this. </li><li><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/580287/rich_content/aebd9095-dca5-4535-91d0-53f0a92948da/image.png#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%228a9e0577-dd77-4b74-be73-36c3b8b40253%22%2C%22w%22%3A1047%2C%22h%22%3A292%7D"></li></ul></li><li>Print the setup above.<ul><li>Instructions above around orientation, supports and layer heights apply.</li><li>Color in the empty eyes and mouth with a black sharpie or black paint. The result should look like this, more or less:<ul><li><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/580287/rich_content/e0d82a33-df5d-41e1-9ec2-56a74e8f5436/image.png#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%22012731f5-cc20-48e3-abfb-7801c93206ec%22%2C%22w%22%3A798%2C%22h%22%3A515%7D"></li></ul></li></ul></li><li>Now, using the thinnest layer height you can afford print 1x each of these tiny eye/mouth parts individually. They won't fit 100% perfectly to the curvature of the face, but they'll be really close… and if you want you could always warm them up a little with hot water and press them onto the face to get a good fit before gluing. <ul><li>Tounge (suggest in yellow)</li><li>LeftEyeHighlight (suggest in white)</li><li>RightEyeHighlight (suggest in white)</li><li>LeftEyeColor (suggest in blue)</li><li>RightEyeColor (suggest in blue)</li><li>These tiny little parts look like this:<ul><li><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/580287/rich_content/9f5350d5-f07d-4504-bbf3-90334cd93671/image.png#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%220000a5fd-d4c5-449e-b75f-622bc2130c5c%22%2C%22w%22%3A600%2C%22h%22%3A457%7D"></li></ul></li></ul></li><li>Once printed, glue these in place as shown on top of the black-eyed base to end up with the composite product.</li></ul><h5>How To Print (Single Color):</h5><ul><li>This version is ideal for people who are good with a paintbrush and can color in little details with precision.</li><li>Instructions above around supports and layer heights apply.</li><li>Print the combined 3mf file in one color.</li><li>Paint or use sharpies if desired to add color.</li></ul>

Moopsy: The Cuddly Bone-Vampire from Star Trek

Star Trek 

E9-3D

Please consider supporting me with a boost on the new system, would love to have more recourses available to make and share Models!! Made this Headset stand of spiderman. Printet like a boss and now i have a cool place to store my headset slicer says floating object, just ignore this , it will print fine 0.2mm layerhight. No support. lightning infill 15 %. gyriod infill for the buttom part. 3 walls Make sure to check out my other headset stands. * Black Panther - https://makerworld.com/en/models/176323#profileId-193839 **Thanos - https://makerworld.com/en/models/162344#profileId-178199 ***Iron man - https://makerworld.com/en/models/126398#profileId-136594 ****Dead Pool - https://makerworld.com/en/models/140981#profileId-153593 Happy Printing

Spiderman Headset Stand

heroes 

Neggan

Groot Flower Pot. Model size 195 mm.

Groot Flower Pot

steffen.marks

A spool weight for the Geetech plastic spools (1kg) for Bambulabs AMS System. If the spool is getting to light the AMS motor can't roll back the whole spool anymore, so it jamms. &nbsp;I filled the box with silica pearls to give it a good weight…

Geetech Spool AMS Weight

 Necessary 

Codyinbody3

Here&#39;s a Hueforge model I made for the Brothers Of Steel. I always loved this picture so I decided to make it into a Hueforge model, print it, and share it with everyone. Enjoy!&nbsp;Swap Instructions:     Start with Black     At layer #7 (0.64mm) swap to Olive Green     At layer #13 (1.12mm) swap to Silver     At layer #18 (1.52mm) swap to Jade White for the rest.