mc_death_666

Creative Electronics

I designed this modular phone/camera arm which you can clamp on every surface!&nbsp;&nbsp;I included 3 different sized for the clamp (Pt1_)(30 mm/1,18 inch - 40 mm/1,57 inch - 50 mm/1,97 inch).<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 100%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000427730/design/2024-04-14_2d5fc0c5a3742.png"></figure>Clamping mechanism for phones (65mm-90mm) and tablets (140mm-240mm), TPU insert for using phones and tablets (9mm thick) without a case.<blockquote>Pt1_Phone_Holder, Pt2_Phone_holder, TPU insert = Pt3_Phone_Holder:</blockquote><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 100%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000427730/design/2024-04-14_f105c7157fed4.png"></figure><blockquote>Pt1_Tablet_Holder, Pt2_Tablet_holder, TPU insert = Pt3_Phone_Holder:</blockquote><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000427730/design/2024-05-11_238edf61be6ec.png"></figure>For full modularity I made different lengths for the arm (Pt3_) (50-100-150-200-250-300mm)<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000427730/design/2024-04-14_2ef13e9078089.png"></figure>&nbsp;This camera tripod is not only made for smartphones but also for cameras and video lamps, using M6 or 1/4in thread you can screw them on. (Camera_Holder_Tripod)I also made a cold shoe adapter (Cold_Shoe_Tripod) and different new knobs for the ¼ bolts and nuts (Pt6-1-4in_Tripod)<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000427730/design/2024-05-11_9bbefaa593563.png"></figure>&nbsp;To join all the parts together I used DIN933 M8 bolts and DIN934M8 nuts, the bolts are mostly 30 mm long. For the camera holder I used DIN933 M6 bolts and DIN934 nuts.For easy acces to the bolts I made some knobs in 4 sizes (see .3mf file).&nbsp;Down here you can see some UPDATES for the camera arm (dd/mm/yyyy):<ul><li>08/05/2024: Wider knobs so it&#39;s easier to adjust (Pt6.4_M8_Tripod , Pt6.4_M6_Tripod , Pt6.4_1-4in_Tripod)</li><li>11/05/2024: Tablet clamp (140mm-240mm)                        ¼ Thread camera holder and knobs</li></ul>

Modular Clamping Camera/Phone Arm

Vanlive

M4st3r

Ich habe mir diesen Kabelhalter erstellt um unter einer Kommode ein Verlängerungskabel zu fixieren und wollte es aber nicht anschrauben. Es wird einfach mit einem Doppelseitigen Klebeband befestigt und die Kommode damit nicht zerstört.

Cable Clip

Stefan Heer

Use the Vornoi eggs and egg cups as Easter decorations or for everyday morning meals. Hopefully they will put a smile on your face too. I hand painted the supports (tree structure). It actually only needs supports below the egg between the legs.Have fun with them! 😊

Egg cup with friends

Haushalt

DesignCraft

Version 2 is now available! Please use the v2 Left-hand side and v2 Right-hand side print profiles and read the instructions below!&nbsp;DISCLAIMER: Print profiles NOT created by DesignCraft may contain outdated model versions or suboptimal slicer settings. Use at your own risk! I have no control to moderate or remove these third party print profiles.&nbsp;Description:&nbsp;The AMS Lid Riser allows you to keep your AMS lid closed while providing additional clearance for larger filament spools.&nbsp;Need even more spool clearance? The <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/244691" rel="nofollow noopener">AMS Lid Riser XL</a> is now available!&nbsp;Version 2 Instructions:<ul><li>Print both sides of the AMS Lid Riser v2 along with the tongues for each side.</li><li>Insert the tongues into the bottom of each side. Press each side firmly down on a flat surface (such as a table) to make sure the tongue is fully inserted and even. While glue is not required I did apply CA glue to the tongues before assembly. Please make sure you&#39;re applying glue to the correct side as it only fits in one way.</li><li>Wait for the glue to dry before installing the AMS Lid Riser v2.</li><li>To install the AMS Lid Riser v2 open the AMS lid, insert one riser piece at a time and firmly press the tongue into the rubber gasket, and close the AMS lid as pictured.</li></ul>Version 1 Instructions:<ul><li>Print both sides of the AMS Lid Riser v1</li><li>It&#39;s recommended that you print this model with a brim on a cool, smooth surface build plate.</li><li>Once printing is complete, open the AMS lid, insert one riser piece at a time, and close the AMS lid as pictured.</li><li>The AMS Lid Riser has a tongue on the bottom that fits into the AMS lid groove. The AMS lid tongue closes into the top groove of the AMS Lid Riser.</li></ul>Notes:<ul><li>Do not enable Flow Dynamics Calibration when printing or the part may overlap the lines.</li><li>It is not recommend to re-orient the position of the parts on the build plate unless you&#39;re an advanced user. They&#39;re positioned in this fashion to avoid warping that can be caused by close proximity to the fan.</li><li>Shown as printed in standard PLA</li></ul>

AMS Lid Riser for Bambu Lab AMS

3Deen-Druck

Hello folks,&nbsp;you got a new printer and spent all your money on it, but where to put it? Don't get an ikea lack table they said, it's too unstable they said. &nbsp;Bullshit!&nbsp;You're getting actually a fine stable table, which is a lot stronger than you thought, for your bucks. Just a few modifications, and soon you can jump on it without a problem. (Disclaimer: Please don't try this at home, this stunt should be only performed by trained professionals.)&nbsp;Well, here you get a set of everything you need, actually a tad stronger than it was already.&nbsp;Screws needed: 88x 4,5x20mm&nbsp;And after you got more metal than wood, you can put your stuff on it and be happy.&nbsp;Example:I got one reinforced lack table, ontop a 15kg concrete plate and the p1p printer, stacked another ikea lack on it with a full filled ams (4x 1kg), stacked a second ikea lack on it to store my other filament (15x1kg). So you get a sense of whats holding up.&nbsp;-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Please don't forget to LIKE👍, Comment ✍ and RATE ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ - it would be awesome! Thanks❣

Ikea Lack Table ReReReinforced - Tankbuild

Tools

Bambu Lab

<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000014267/design/2023-09-19_1c59e405d0a79.png"></figure>This is a V-twin engine model that consists of various parts like a crankshaft, connecting rods, camshafts, gears, and a throttle valve, among others. It can replicate the functioning of a real engine. The engine model has magnetic decorative covers and hollowed-out structures that make it easy to observe the internal parts. It can be rotated using either a manual crank or an electric motor. In manual mode, the engine runs at a slow pace, allowing for a better observation of each movement. With the motor drive mode, the engine can run continuously by using the motor to rotate the crankshaft.&nbsp;Recommended filaments: Bambu PLA series, PLA Basic is recomended especially in moving parts<a target="_blank" href="https://store.bambulab.com/products/pla-basic-filament?variant=40820833517683" rel="nofollow noopener">https://store.bambulab.com/products/pla-basic-filament</a>Hardware Kit: Engine Model Components Kit-005<a target="_blank" href="http://store.bambulab.com/products/engine-model-components-kit-005" rel="nofollow noopener">http://store.bambulab.com/products/engine-model-components-kit-005</a>&nbsp;Please make sure you clean the build plate before printing and/or applying glue to prevent print failures.&nbsp;Follow the video tutorial step by step to print and assemble your build. <figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://youtu.be/wv3qnfMbuko"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/wv3qnfMbuko" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure>

Engine Model 005

Dekoration

dedan83

The lowest compartment fits atomizers with a diameter of 36mm and a height of 59mm. The middle compartment has a height of 46mm and the top compartment is 55mm high and 34mm wide. &nbsp;

Vape atomizer shelf / stand

Vapes

Adam L

This is yet-another-calibration tower, with several tests for overhang/bridge performance, but also other tiny features that I think represent common use cases in detailed 3D printing.One of the things the Bambu X1/X1C/P1P printers cannot do for you is calibrate fan speeds for different filaments auto-magically. Temperature and cooling, along with flow and pressure advance is important to do for good printing performance, particularly for overhangs & bridging performance, as well as stringing.This model tests curved, straight, and thin overhangs in different orientations and by repeatedly printing a model at different heights. I have pre-sliced Fan and Temperature 3MF files for you, but you can “Scan” any printing variable you wish at 10 mm intervals. This model tries the most challenging types of curved overhangs, up to 90%, as well as bridges (100% overhang). It also prints several tiny features to make sure you don't accidentally over-optimize for one area of performance at the cost of another. <h3>Which file should I use?</h3>Bambu/SoftFever Users : (other slicers see below)Note: These files assume you are using an X1C (machine I tested on). If you are using a X1 or P1P or other machine, you will need to copy/paste the custom before-layer-change code into a copy of your machine's profile and save a copy and then slice. See the temperature instructions below for where to find this.<ul><li>Temperature : 5xTempScan.3MF (This file does 5 different temps)</li><li>Fan Speed: 10xFanScan.3MF (This file scans 10 different speeds)</li></ul>If you use another slicer or want different sizes, STEP & STL files are included for 10x,5x,1x and separate base and repeating unit.<h3>Important Instructions:</h3>It is very important to make sure you're scanning the variable you think you are by checking in the slicer preview (temperature or fan speed view). Additionally, my files have a preset for Overture PETG by default setup. Make sure to change it to your filament of choice!<ul><li>For fan-scanning it is very important to change your filament cooling settings temporarily to not conflict with the machine “before-layer-change” overrides that have been setup for you in the 3MF files! Simply change your filament settings to specify no cooling for the first 1000 layers to prevent issues:<img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/366923/rich_content/7c30eb2f-215d-40f5-a9b8-f33c1422ce7d/image.png#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%22a0adba3d-26a2-4ef2-9c0c-58fe0fbb40e9%22%2C%22w%22%3A483%2C%22h%22%3A192%7D"></li></ul>&nbsp;<ul><li>For temperature scanning you will need to go into the machine GCODE settings and set the temperatures you want to scan. Click here to open the dialog, and then find the Before Layer Change G-Code dialog and modify the temperatures you want to scan, along with your starting temperature (see other-slicer instructions):</li></ul><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/366923/rich_content/96879c10-0de8-4dfb-b9a0-68be29a72d75/image.png#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%22bda48a94-9eb2-45df-84a7-5aaaa48435ec%22%2C%22w%22%3A536%2C%22h%22%3A124%7D">Then change the yellow highlighted values:<img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/366923/rich_content/d9a1de9c-6617-4bd0-8b23-46a41434b880/image.png#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%224ab758ee-a8fc-45a6-a2b2-33d527c7fb2d%22%2C%22w%22%3A744%2C%22h%22%3A288%7D">&nbsp;PrusaSlicer / SuperSlicer / Other Users:<ul><li>I've provided the STL & STEP files for you folks. You'll need to configure your slicer to scan the variable you want by adding the appropriate “Before Layer Change G-Code” in your slicer. Here's copy-paste templates for 5x Temperature and 10x Fan towers: </li></ul>Example Temperature code:<code>{if layer_z<2.0}M104 S285 ; Temp Tower starting temp</code> <code>{elsif layer_z<=12.0} M104 S285 ; Temp Tower Temp #1</code> <code>{elsif layer_z<=22.0} M104 S280 ; Temp Tower Temp #2</code> <code>{elsif layer_z<=32.0} M104 S275 ; Temp Tower Temp #3</code> <code>{elsif layer_z<=42.0} M104 S270 ; Temp Tower Temp #4</code> <code>{elsif layer_z<=52.0} M104 S265 ; Temp Tower Temp #5</code> <code>{endif}</code>Example Fan Code:<code>{if layer_z<2.0}M106 S0 ; FanTest floor 1 (no fan)</code> <code>{elsif layer_z<=12.0} M106 S26 ; FanTest floor 2 (10% fan)</code> <code>{elsif layer_z<=22.0} M106 S51 ; FanTest floor 3 (20% fan)</code> <code>{elsif layer_z<=32.0} M106 S77 ; FanTest floor 4 (30% fan)</code> <code>{elsif layer_z<=42.0} M106 S102 ; FanTest floor 5 (40% fan)</code> <code>{elsif layer_z<=52.0} M106 S128 ; FanTest floor 6 (50% fan)</code> <code>{elsif layer_z<=62.0} M106 S153 ; FanTest floor 7 (60% fan)</code> <code>{elsif layer_z<=72.0} M106 S179 ; FanTest floor 8 (70% fan)</code> <code>{elsif layer_z<=82.0} M106 S204 ; FanTest floor 9 (80% fan)</code> <code>{elsif layer_z<=92.0} M106 S230 ; FanTest floor 10 (90% fan)</code> <code>{elsif layer_z<=102.0} M106 S255 ; FanTest floor 11 (100% fan)</code> <code>{endif}</code>&nbsp;Other Printing Details<ul><li>Filament Print Temperature: Any filament will work for temperature scanning. I recommend using default fan settings for that filament type when scanning temperatures to get a good guess at which temperature is ideal.</li><li>Filament Fan Speeds: This test variant is particularly useful on filaments that need to balance strength or warping with detail and quality. Typical examples include PETG, Nylon, ABS, etc. </li><li>Layer height: Typically 0.20 or 0.16 mm. The 3MF files provided are the faster 0.2 mm prints, but are easily changed by adjusting the layer height in the slicer. 0.2 mm is also more challenging and may help accentuate temp/cooling differences. However, you should use whatever layer height you use the most frequently.</li><li>Nozzle size: This test assumes you are using a standard 0.4 mm nozzle, but in theory can work with any nozzle with some adjustments.</li></ul>Why did I make it this way ?I adapted this model from the thingiverse model <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2003594/files" rel="nofollow">here </a>, but made several modifications to really push the printer hard to accentuate differences between different settings. These included adding several new features and adjusting the overhangs to be longer and more aggressive in various different ways.Which printers does this work with ?Any printer! However, the 3MF files contain BambuSlicer settings to make people's lives easier who use that slicer. This was sliced with<a href="https://github.com/SoftFever/BambuStudio-SoftFever" rel="nofollow"> SoftFever's fork </a>(v1.4.2) of the official BambuSlicer, but it is also drop-in compatible with the official slicer. Works fine also with PrusaSlicer, but you'll need to do your own “before layer change” setups for fan/temperature.

Scan Tower : Calibrate a Filament's Fan & Temperature Settings (Bambu X1/X1C/P1P or any printer)

Test & kalibrieren 

Bastien

<h4>26/11/2023</h4>Added Pushfit to the arm, there are 2 versions:<ul><li>PC4-M6 shared by <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@MichaelZanett_767862" rel="nofollow noopener">Micha</a> (thanks you again)</li><li>PC4-M10 as various users ask it</li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:450.031px;"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/347807/rich_content/6526a42c-7d25-42b4-bdd3-a49aba499424/thumbs/cover/800x626/jpg/capture-decran-2023-09-02-a-182751.webp"></figure><h4> </h4>Printed with @0.12mm, 3 perimeters.&nbsp;----------&nbsp;&nbsp;In this post, you'll find everything you need to equip your X1 or P1P with a side spool support fitted with a PTFE tube to guide the filament easily to the extruder.The spool support can be either the one supplied with the printer (the metal one), or a roller using 2 608 bearings.&nbsp;P1P ARC version is very similar to X1 version with the exception of a few changers needed to adapt to acrylic panels:<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/26122/2023-07-01_0d15b8f1d1389.jpg"><h4>How to print and use:</h4>Make sure the print is strong and rigid, I've printed mine with 4 perimeters, 0.2mm layer height 5 top/down layers, cubic (or gyroid) infill.The filament guide just fits into arms, you can glue it but it's not necessaryPTFE tube is pushed into the hole, tolerance may vary depending on your filament and printer calibration&nbsp;Plate 1 is P1P ARC original supportPate 2 is P1P ARC roller supportPlate 3 is X1 original supportPlate 4 is X1 roller support