max.maker

Vissidus

Disclaimer: the <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/4065967614" rel="nofollow noopener">Author</a> assumes no responsibility or liability for any misuse and damage caused by the contents of this publication. The model and individual parts contained in this publication are not intended to be used to perpetrate any illegal activity. Under no circumstances shall the <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/4065967614" rel="nofollow noopener">Author</a> of this model and publication be liable for any alterations made to the contents of this publication by any party aimed to construct a firearm. The tool shown in this video is a 3D printed, non-functional toy pistol with no ability to propel any projectiles in it's initial configuration by default, by design. About: The PP9 is a toy handgun mockup, consisting a total of 30 parts (assembly required, not including springs). Everything you expect from a pistol is completely functional: chambering, ejection, trigger pull, slide stop on ammo runout, etc.. There is no striker and trigger lever intended in this design, thus the trigger pull is for show only. Note: PP9 stands for Printed Pistol 9 millimetre The magazine holds up to 13-15 rounds (9mm nominal) with an appropriate steel spring (or up to 4 rounds with the included printed spring). Slide racking, extractor, magazine lever and trigger pull require appropriate springs (not included in the assembly). Note: printed dimensions may differ, therefore some sanding may be required to achieve proper tolerance. Note: some parts required for full functionality (recoil spring, magazine spring, magazine catch spring, extractor spring) are not included in the assembly. Also, If you found this model to your liking and wish to support the author you can donate <a target="_blank" href="https://paypal.me/vissidus" rel="nofollow noopener">here</a> Accessories: This model features a short-barreled rifle (SBR) conversion kit, with a few of it's own accesories, such as a semi-adjustable stock, a vertical grip, non-flip iron sights and is capable of carrying any other accessory that can be attached to a standard picatinny rail. Note: the kit is currently undergoing testing (and as is, a semi-final prototype) To download the kit follow the link: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/81074#profileId-86227" rel="nofollow noopener">SP PP9 - SBR Conversion Kit</a> – Recommendations: For the most appealing receiver appearance a carbon fibre/matte filament is recommended: PLA-CF/PETG-CF. Pins and levers are best made of carbon steel. For the slide/magazine a matte/metal finish filament is recommended (ex.: Bambu Lab PLA Metal, Bambu Lap Charcoal Matte PLA). Note: PLA is sufficient enough to withstand wear and tear. For extreme durability, printing critical parts (i.e. slide locking block, slide stop lever, etc.) with PC is highly recommended. Machined stainless steel (304L, 316L)/carbon steel (1040, 1045) alternatives are superb. -- Receiver Assembly Steps: <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/228112/2023-11-23_5a2c5818fe086.png"> 1. Insert the ‘Slide Stop Lever’ (2) into the slot, aligned with a thru hole on the 'Control Unit Housing' (3), and push the ‘Slide Stop Lever Pin’ (1) until flush with the housing, locking the lever in place. 2. Insert the ‘Trigger Pin’ (6) into the 'Trigger' (13) until the pin protrudes (approximately) symmetrically from the trigger on both sides 3. Attach the trigger spring (not depicted in the drawing) to the trigger, and insert it into the housing unit until the trigger pin is confronted with two legs on each side 4. Align the housing unit with the receiver and push it into the receiver, aligning the rear, the front and the trigger with their respective cutouts. 5. Insert the 'Rear Mounting Rails' (5) into the housing unit as shown until fully seated 6. Insert the ‘Ejector’ (4) into the housing unit on top of the rear mounting reals, as shown, until fully seated 7. Lock the rear side of the housing unit in place by inserting the ‘Rear Mounting Pin’ through the receiver 8. Insert the ‘Magazine Catch Lever’ into the receiver, aligning the spring cutout on the lever with the hole inside the magazine well 9. Insert a magazine catch spring (1.6-1.8mm Music Wire, 20mm Length/Glock magazine catch spring, cut to 20mm length) into the hole and push it into the sot on the magazine catch lever 10. Insert the ‘Front Mounting Rails’ (12) into the cutout at the front of the receiver, locking it in place by inserting two ‘Front Mounting Pin’s from each side of the receiver, until flush with the frame 11. Insert the ‘Slide Locking Block’ (14) into the control unit housing slightly behind the front mountil rails, until flush with the top surface of the receiver 12. Push the ‘Slide Locking Lever’ (10) until the flat section of the lever is coincident with the right sight of the receiver. Do not push it all the way through. Note: The extractor spring is easily obtained from a lighter (the longer spring) with no length adjustments 13. Insert the magazine catch lever spring into the slot inside the receiver between two curves surfaces such that it latches onto a cutout in the magazine catch lever Note: An alternative assembly is described down below&nbsp;Alternative Magazine Catch Lever Assembly Steps: <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/228112/2023-11-25_829bee564f378.png"> 1. Insert the ‘Magazine Catch Lever’ (2) into the receiver such that the lever is in it's default position (i.e. left side is flush with the grip) 2. Slide the ‘Catch Lever Spring Carrier’ (1) from the top of the receiver into the slot and push thru until flush with the catch lever 3. Slide the ‘Catch Lever Spring’ (3) into the catch lever, aligning it with the square guide extrusion 4. Compress the spring until it is properly seated on the guide extrusion on the carrier Note: Slight preload is applied when the spring is fully and properly seated. See “Spring Specifications” for spring dimensions. The spring is easily obtained from a lighter (fork spring (if with a spark wheel) or igniter spring (if with a push-button igniter)) Recoil Group Assembly Steps: <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/228112/2023-11-23_afe3302aa44a1.png"> 1. Slide the ‘Recoil Spring Spacer’ (2) down the ‘Recoil Guide Rod’ (1) all the way down 2. Slide the ‘Recoil Spring’ (4) all the way down, until flush with the spring spacer 3. Compress the spring slightly and attach both ‘Recoil Spring Clamps’ from boths sides of the guide rod until the ends are coincident Note: The recoil spring is to be bought within the listed specifications or tested at the spot with a fitting off-the-self spring Slide Assembly Steps: <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/228112/2023-11-23_cc860e019a99a.png"> 1. Insert a spring into the rear circular slot in the slide and push the ‘Slide End Cap' (6) up into the slide until fully seated. Note: The slide end cap is not intendet to be disassembled. The spring should be stiff enough to apply sufficient amount of pressure to hold the cap in place. 2. Insert the ‘Sights Contrasts’ (5) into the 'Front Sights' (1) and ‘Rear Sights’ (4) until flush with the surface. Note: It is highly recommended to print the contrast inserts with glow in the dark or stark white filament 3. Insert the extractor spring (not depicted in the drawing) into the appropriate slot on the left side of the slide. 4. Insert the ‘Extractor’ (3) into the slot and lock it in place with the ‘Extractor Pin’ (2) by inserting it through the upper thru hole on the left side of the lost, until the pin is flush with the hole. 5. Tilt the barrel (approximately) 30 degrees, aligning the sides parallel to the slide sides and push it through until you are able to tilt it back flush with the slide. 6. Insert the ‘Recoil Group Assembly’ (8) end cap (solid front end) into the lower hole and push the guide rod thru until the rod can be aligned with a slot in the barrel, then release. Note: The extractor spring is easily obtained from a lighter (the smaller spring) with minial length adjustments Clip/Magazine Assembly Steps:<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/228112/2023-11-23_1f3e2b6765c74.png"> 1. Slide the ‘Follower’ (3) into the magazine (1) from the bottom 2. Insert the included spring (5, not depicted in the drawing) or an appropriate magazine spring 3. Insert 'Magazine Bottom Plate Retainer' (4) and compress the spring by pressing it down into the well 4. Slide the ‘Magazine Bottom Plate’ (2) onto the magazine until flush on all sides and retainer plate is engaged. The spring will apply pressure to hold the plate in place. Note: The recoil spring is to be bought within the listed specifications or tested at the spot with a fitting off-the-self spring Complete Assembly: <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/228112/2023-11-23_b5c07a2c44db2.png"> 1. Place the slide up on the frame top surface aligned with the front mounting rails, with the slide locking block flush with the frame pull the slide to the rear until it is fully seated in the receiver. 2. Push the slide locking lever forward until it is flush with the receiver and rotate clockwise until it is parallel with the cutout. 3. Insert the magazine into the magazine well on the receiver and push up until the magazine catch lever engages the magazine and locks it in place.

SP PP9 - Functional Handgun Toy

Toys

mishkin2

<h2>Summary</h2>Sometimes in the work you have to apply glue or sealant in a certain way and these devices should help to solve the problem.These nozzle spouts are removable and are consumable. You don't need a lot of time and material to print them. But that the glue does not dry in the Neck, close it with a Cap.Nozzle_flat_7mm & guide is provided to apply the adhesive or sealant exactly on the edge, with a certain margin from the edge. The indent can be adjusted by cutting the edge of the guide. However, if you print PLA, keep in mind that this plastic is brittle and a metal file will help you better for cutting.In the video, I tried to show how to apply glue to each of the nozzles.<a target="_blank" href="https://youtu.be/PLhkO27uB4U" rel="nofollow noopener">https://youtu.be/PLhkO27uB4U</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;<h2>Print Settings</h2>Rafts: No Supports: No&nbsp;Resolution: 0,2 Infill: 20&nbsp;

Sealant Gun Nozzles

Tools

EgorNiKO

<h2>Summary</h2><h3>Upgrade - 2024-03-01</h3>Diff Housing.STL - the lever mounting gap has been increased<h3>Upgrade - 2022-02-12</h3>Reinforced load-bearing elements. Wishbone Front for HSP188015.stl Wishbone Rear for HSP188015.stl Turnbuckle Front.stl Turnbuckle Rear.stl Front_C-Hub.stl Rear_C-Hub.stlSolidworks files - <a target="_blank" href="https://grabcad.com/library/openrc-by-niko-1" rel="nofollow noopener">https://grabcad.com/library/openrc-by-niko-1</a><h3>Upgrade - 2019-08-26</h3>Increased clearance to 0.5mm in support for levers. This will improve the support compartment for PET-G: Wishbone Rear for HSP188015_Right.STL Wishbone Rear for HSP188015.STL Wishbone Front for HSP188015.STL Wishbone Front for HSP188015_Right.STL<h3>Upgrade - 2019-06-22</h3>Front_C-Hub.STL - expanded the central cutout (100% Fill PLA) Front_Stearing_Hub_v1.1.STL - increased thickness + design (100% Fill ABS or PETG)<h3>News - 2018-11-20</h3>Added it .STEP file https://www.thingiverse.com/download:5634213This version of the Traggi is designed for those who want a more complex and reliable design. I recommend assembling it after assembling the original version https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:42198OpenRC Truggy by NiKO includes many improvements to increase reliability and durability. Among them:Increased space for &gt;3S 5000mAh and more batteries Battery fasteners with Velcro The central differential uses a combination of metal and plastic parts mod 1. The front and rear differential housings are made of HSP metal. The C-HUB has a more convenient snap-on design The fists are made for cheap steel CVD HSP drives with large and small bearings The original shape of the levers The steering unit has been updated Increased suspension travel Ackerman angles are calculated and a lot of little things.Watch the full assembly of the model in the video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qOXqeuO0pfgComposite nodes:<ul><li>Steering <a href="/thing:3062649" rel="nofollow">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3062649</a></li></ul>Central differential<ul><li>Battery fasteners <a href="/thing:3062813" rel="nofollow">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3062813</a></li></ul><h2>Запчасти</h2><ul><li>Screws M3x12 - 30 pcs (upper and lower deck fasteners)</li><li>Washers DIN 9021 M5 - 4 pcs</li><li>M3 nuts - 24 pcs (it is better to take 18 simple and 6 with nylon seals)</li><li>Screws M2.5x10 - 8 pcs (for Front_C-Hub and Rear_C-Hub)</li><li>Screws M2x6 - 4 pcs (for fixing studs M3x60)</li><li>Screws M3x20 - 4pcs (for attaching amortizers to butterflies)</li><li>Screws M3x16 - 4pcs (for attaching shock absorbers to levers)</li><li>Studs M2x32 - 4pcs (I made from nails)</li></ul>&nbsp;Studs M3x60 - 4pcs (I made from nails)Differential drive HSP 02030 (2 pcs) <a target="_blank" href="https://egorniko.ru/r/C" rel="nofollow noopener">https://egorniko.ru/r/C</a>Differential HSP 02024 (3 pcs) one went to the central <a target="_blank" href="https://egorniko.ru/r/D" rel="nofollow noopener">https://egorniko.ru/r/D</a>Bones (2pcs) 89.5mm <a target="_blank" href="https://egorniko.ru/r/B" rel="nofollow noopener">https://egorniko.ru/r/B</a> 89.5ммCups (2 pcs) <a target="_blank" href="https://egorniko.ru/r/E" rel="nofollow noopener">https://egorniko.ru/r/E</a>20kg servo (I really liked it) <a target="_blank" href="https://egorniko.ru/r/F" rel="nofollow noopener">https://egorniko.ru/r/F</a>Ball bearings <a target="_blank" href="https://egorniko.ru/r/Q" rel="nofollow noopener">https://egorniko.ru/r/Q</a>CVD HSP 108015 <a target="_blank" href="https://egorniko.ru/r/G" rel="nofollow noopener">https://egorniko.ru/r/G</a><ul><li>Hex 12mm <a target="_blank" href="https://egorniko.ru/r/H" rel="nofollow noopener">https://egorniko.ru/r/H</a></li></ul>BearingsABEC-3 5x10x4 mm, 8pcs <a target="_blank" href="https://egorniko.ru/r/I" rel="nofollow noopener">https://egorniko.ru/r/I</a> (It is better to take these in reserve, because they are expendable)ABEC-3 6x12x4 mm, 4pcs <a target="_blank" href="https://egorniko.ru/r/J" rel="nofollow noopener">https://egorniko.ru/r/J</a>ABEC-3 10x15x4 mm, 8 pcs <a target="_blank" href="https://egorniko.ru/r/K" rel="nofollow noopener">https://egorniko.ru/r/K</a>Shock absorbers 110mm (took the same size on the front and back) <a target="_blank" href="https://egorniko.ru/r/L" rel="nofollow noopener">https://egorniko.ru/r/L</a> (Traxxas Slash 5807) <a target="_blank" href="https://egorniko.ru/r/M" rel="nofollow noopener">https://egorniko.ru/r/M</a> (HSP 108004)The wheels are about 12 cm in diameter <a target="_blank" href="https://egorniko.ru/r/N" rel="nofollow noopener">https://egorniko.ru/r/N</a>1M pinions (5 mm shaft 11T 12T 13t 14t 15t) Small diameter due to large wheels <a target="_blank" href="https://egorniko.ru/r/O" rel="nofollow noopener">https://egorniko.ru/r/O</a><ul><li>GoolRC S3660 3300-3800KV motor (5mm shaft) + Regulator 3-4S 80 Amps (do not take 2-3S, overheats) <a target="_blank" href="https://egorniko.ru/r/P" rel="nofollow noopener">https://egorniko.ru/r/P</a> I have a 3300KV motor (i.e. with a margin of up to 4S). If you will only drive 3S, then it may be worth taking 3800KV.</li></ul><h2>Print Settings</h2>Printer: DeltaSupports: NoResolution: 0.25mmInfill: 90%  Notes: Everything is printed without support. I recommend printing like mine: red is PLA, white is ABS Wishbone - 0.25 mm Front_Stearing_Hub.STL - 0.25 mm Rear_Hub.STL - 0.25 mm

OpenRC Truggy 1/10 by NiKO

Ryxxi_makes

Clips onto the Cable chain very securely and rigidly. Then snap in the bowden tube. &nbsp;Use pliers to remove the clips by slowly lifting one end from the cable chain.&nbsp;The clips are very sturdy and dont move much.&nbsp;&nbsp;