markkuiken

Kroeskoppie

Original Source Material: - Original Creator Blastoise Model: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.thingiverse.com/neb1236/designs" rel="nofollow noopener">neb1236</a> on <a target="_blank" href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5162417" rel="nofollow noopener">Thingiverse.</a>- Original Creator AMS Version Blastoise Eyes: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/3378101082" rel="nofollow noopener">Waikikiprod</a> on <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/13162#profileId-13157" rel="nofollow noopener">Makerworld</a>/<a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/536623-bicolor-blastoises-eyes" rel="nofollow noopener">Printables</a>. Some small notes:  - Please support the original designers, they did the awesome job of making this model.  - For licences/selling the print: please contact the original designers, not me. I did not create this awesome model. - On 16-02-2024 , I created a printable version in Bambu Studio which should work on the A1 Mini. It has the same printing settings as the X1C/P1P/P1S version, but all the parts are divived on more plates, since the build plate on a A1 Mini Printer is quite a bit smaller. Maximum printtime for every plate has been reduced to 4 hours maximum because of this for ease of printing. - I am not able to test the A1 Mini Printing Profile, simply because I do not own this printer and only have a X1C. Use the profile on your own risk.  Description: A remix/share from the awesome Blastoise model. I have scaled all the parts to 150%, as I think a Blastoise should be bigger!This Blastoise is about 20 cm high and weights about 700 grams! I also did the following: - I used a 0.16 settings basefile I like and edited it. - I sorted all the different parts on different plates for easier printing, based on color. - The default eyes are replaced by the AMS version, which makes dual color printing possible. - I adjusted the flowrate in my settings profile so the coloring of the model should be the same overal. - I put ‘Ironing’ off in my settings profiles, since this would give coloring differences, most notable in the brown shell parts. - I fixed some of the more noticable parts that where having Top Layer Spheres by <a target="_blank" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h4SiDX0q0Xs&amp;list=LL&amp;index=1" rel="nofollow noopener">using this guide</a>.&nbsp;If there are more suggestions for better printing settings/profiles, please upload them!  The color sorting in the 3fm-file is based on the following filament that I used for this print: - Black: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.nl/eSUN-Filament-Printer-Maatnauwkeurigheid-Printing/dp/B0BT9F3BCD/?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_w=0HzkR&amp;content-id=amzn1.sym.4c890d23-b470-4346-9711-0b7420ed943c%3Aamzn1.symc.adba8a53-36db-43df-a081-77d28e1b71e6&amp;pf_rd_p=4c890d23-b470-4346-9711-0b7420ed943c&amp;pf_rd_r=NPE0CGVRYZDD97JQ8MTB&amp;pd_rd_wg=V4TwI&amp;pd_rd_r=40b01c60-c887-49a2-a6ab-25625289c9ff&amp;ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mr_hp_atf_m&amp;th=1" rel="nofollow noopener">eSUN PLA+ Black.</a> - Beige: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.nl/eSUN-Filament-Printer-Maatnauwkeurigheid-Printing/dp/B07FQH6H55/?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_w=0HzkR&amp;content-id=amzn1.sym.4c890d23-b470-4346-9711-0b7420ed943c%3Aamzn1.symc.adba8a53-36db-43df-a081-77d28e1b71e6&amp;pf_rd_p=4c890d23-b470-4346-9711-0b7420ed943c&amp;pf_rd_r=NPE0CGVRYZDD97JQ8MTB&amp;pd_rd_wg=V4TwI&amp;pd_rd_r=40b01c60-c887-49a2-a6ab-25625289c9ff&amp;ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mr_hp_atf_m&amp;th=1" rel="nofollow noopener">eSUN PLA+ Beige</a>. - Blue: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.nl/eSUN-Filament-Printer-Maatnauwkeurigheid-Printing/dp/B07FQJ9H8F/?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_w=0HzkR&amp;content-id=amzn1.sym.4c890d23-b470-4346-9711-0b7420ed943c%3Aamzn1.symc.adba8a53-36db-43df-a081-77d28e1b71e6&amp;pf_rd_p=4c890d23-b470-4346-9711-0b7420ed943c&amp;pf_rd_r=NPE0CGVRYZDD97JQ8MTB&amp;pd_rd_wg=V4TwI&amp;pd_rd_r=40b01c60-c887-49a2-a6ab-25625289c9ff&amp;ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mr_hp_atf_m&amp;th=1" rel="nofollow noopener">eSUN PLA+ Light Blue.</a> - White: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.nl/eSUN-Filament-Printer-Maatnauwkeurigheid-Printing/dp/B07FQ98RNP/?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_w=0HzkR&amp;content-id=amzn1.sym.4c890d23-b470-4346-9711-0b7420ed943c%3Aamzn1.symc.adba8a53-36db-43df-a081-77d28e1b71e6&amp;pf_rd_p=4c890d23-b470-4346-9711-0b7420ed943c&amp;pf_rd_r=NPE0CGVRYZDD97JQ8MTB&amp;pd_rd_wg=V4TwI&amp;pd_rd_r=40b01c60-c887-49a2-a6ab-25625289c9ff&amp;ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mr_hp_atf_m&amp;th=1" rel="nofollow noopener">eSUN PLA+ Cold White.</a> - Brown: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.nl/eSUN-Filament-Printer-Maatnauwkeurigheid-Printing/dp/B07FQ75QG2/?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_w=0HzkR&amp;content-id=amzn1.sym.4c890d23-b470-4346-9711-0b7420ed943c%3Aamzn1.symc.adba8a53-36db-43df-a081-77d28e1b71e6&amp;pf_rd_p=4c890d23-b470-4346-9711-0b7420ed943c&amp;pf_rd_r=NPE0CGVRYZDD97JQ8MTB&amp;pd_rd_wg=V4TwI&amp;pd_rd_r=40b01c60-c887-49a2-a6ab-25625289c9ff&amp;ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mr_hp_atf_m&amp;th=1" rel="nofollow noopener">eSUN PLA+ Brown.</a> - Grey: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.nl/eSUN-Filament-Printer-Maatnauwkeurigheid-Printing/dp/B0BT9G9GMQ/?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_w=0HzkR&amp;content-id=amzn1.sym.4c890d23-b470-4346-9711-0b7420ed943c%3Aamzn1.symc.adba8a53-36db-43df-a081-77d28e1b71e6&amp;pf_rd_p=4c890d23-b470-4346-9711-0b7420ed943c&amp;pf_rd_r=NPE0CGVRYZDD97JQ8MTB&amp;pd_rd_wg=V4TwI&amp;pd_rd_r=40b01c60-c887-49a2-a6ab-25625289c9ff&amp;ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mr_hp_atf_m&amp;th=1" rel="nofollow noopener">eSUN PLA+ Grey.</a> A complete timelapse video from all the plates/parts can be found here:<figure class="media"><oembed url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sRZ0PQ6itUQ"></oembed></figure>

Blastoise 150% Multipart Color (20 cm height)

Pokemon stuff

TechX03

Glass Top Riser with adjustable vents to suit Bambulab X1 and P1 Series Printers. The Frame is designed to be able to stick up to 10mm wide COB LED Strip around the inside edge. The TPU Light Shield on top of the frame gives the glass a soft surface to sit on as well as prevents the light from the LED strip from shining into your eyes when looking down and around the printer. I've linked videos below of before and after from the printer camera. For the material of the frame, I would recommend PETG or another filament that withstands higher temps if you plan on using high-temperature materials on the printer. The entire frame is around 420g of filament and about 50g for the Light Shields.The frame is printed in 4 parts along with the TPU Light Shield as well.Recommended Frame Settings for PETG (Overture):<ul><li>0.2mm Layer Height</li><li>Nozzle Temp 250°C</li><li>3 Wall Loops</li><li>4 Top and Bottom Shell Layers</li><li>15% Gyroid Infill</li><li>Outer Wall Speed - 70mm/s</li><li>Inner Wall Speed - 100mm/s</li><li>Sparse Infill Speed - 90mm/s</li><li>Internal Solid Infill Speed - 85mm/s</li><li>Top Surface - 70mm/s</li><li>Bridge - 20mm/s</li></ul>After Printing there are ~6 interior supports on the bottom of the sliders. To break them fee gently apply pressure with a screwdriver, preferably from the inside along the bottom. You'll hear a few pops as they break free. For the LED Strip I used the below from Aliexpress as it comes with tape on the back. If you have a P1 series the USB dimmer version works great and can be plugged into the USB port on the printer. <a target="_blank" href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005014791592.html" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005014791592.html</a> Tip for if you ever try to stick something to PET plastics. They have a low surface energy and glues will not stick well to them. To give them a high energy surface grab a butane torch preferably or lighter and run the inner cone (bright little tip inside a flame) along the surface. Don't let it melt or brown. If using a P1S you may also want to use these seals I made so the frame sits flat. <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/17505" rel="nofollow noopener">P1S Seals</a> Before LED Strip Installed:<figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://youtu.be/c9mjRslO1rk"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/c9mjRslO1rk" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure>After LED Strip Installed:<figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://youtu.be/8zzZHhDzQJc"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/8zzZHhDzQJc" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure>

Bambu P1 and X1 Sliding Vents Glass Top LED Enclosure / Riser

P1S Mods

Catsmgee

Hellpod's are now primed and ready for deployment.&nbsp;The model is split into two halves for printing, the desent stabilizer fins are a bit touchy, so I recommend a sharp knife and/or support interface material for the supports.&nbsp;Model comes with an optional rock base to set the hellpod in.The base is modified from Simon Bombardier's<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/76209#profileId-84104" rel="nofollow noopener"> Rocky base</a> model here on makerworld, used under the creative commons attribution with proper credit given.

Helldivers 2 Hellpod (with optional base)

Helldivers 2

YelTrik Designs - Click FOLLOW

ARC DESIGN! This arc design is a simple model and simple install and is a very effective in helping to reduce the likihood filament feed and pullback errors. This is not an overly complicated solution for the AMS internal hub! It doesn't require screwing something into place that could potentially damage your very expensive AMS! No screws required! It's critical the AMS internal PTFE hub function as designed without interference. This solution attaches only to the PTFE tubes improving and maintaining proper alignment of the PTFE tubes, at a consistent and specific distance from the hub, for smooth filament feeding and pull back! Simple design, print, and results.&nbsp;Check Out User Reivews and Feedback&nbsp;Simple To Print And Install:Simple to print and install. Don't be fearful of the install if you haven't yet dissembled your AMS. BL has an excellent and simple Wiki on this process. See Installation Procedure below.&nbsp;&nbsp;SEE INSTALLATION PROCEDURE BELOW <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/1072890529" rel="nofollow noopener">CLICK HERE TO CHECK OUT THESE OTHER PTFE ACCESSORIES</a>&nbsp;INSTALLATION PROCEDURE <a target="_blank" href="https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/maintenance/replace-filament-hub" rel="nofollow noopener">https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/maintenance/replace-filament-hub</a> NOTE: You do not have to remove the AMS Internal Hub. You only need to separate the AMS enclosure from the Spool Roller Assembly.&nbsp;Once you have the AMS disassembled it will look like this: <figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/388682/2023-10-28_16513408f15088.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;The next step is to remove the PTFE tubes from the AMS Internal Hub:&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/388682/2023-10-28_a3bae2917401e8.jpg"></figure>Once the PTFE tubes have been removed from the Hub, install the AMS Filament Pull Back Guide on each tube. Move it up higher than needed initially<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/388682/2023-10-28_01acb3f912e128.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;After all the PTFE tubes have been installed in the AMS Filament Pull Back Guide, reinstall the PTFE tubes into the Hub and move the AMS Filament Pull Back Fix as seen in this photo:&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/388682/2023-10-28_3901d04a158868.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;Assemble the AMS in the reverse order you followed to disassemble it. NOTE: Remember to plug in the electrical connectors or you'll have to repeat the disassembly and reassembly procedure, which could be frustrating. Don't ask me how I know. ;-) That's It!

Pokemon stuff

P1S Mods

Helldivers 2

FIXES