ltelitas

ThreeD-Michael

<figure class="table" style="width:50%;"><table><tbody><tr><td><p><strong>News 2024-04-10:</strong></p><p>Please also check out my new <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/422861" rel="nofollow noopener"><strong>Blade Dispenser</strong></a> for this Bed Scraper:</p><figure class="image"><a href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/422861" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/843986/2024-04-10_3fff13c94089c.png"></a></figure></td></tr></tbody></table></figure><p>This is the<strong> XL version </strong>of my popular <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/231936" rel="nofollow noopener"><strong>Optimized Bed Scraper</strong></a> with quick-change blades. The cutting edge of the blade is 45 mm, a full 30% longer!</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p><strong>Each blade weighs just 1.8 grams</strong> - and since each blade has two cutting edges, only <strong>0.9 grams</strong> of filament is required per cutting edge. It couldn&#39;t be more economical, and you can now replace the blades more often without feeling guilty.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p><strong>Print Settings:</strong></p><p>This design has been optimized for printing with a <strong>layer height of 0.2 mm</strong>, so please do not use a different value. The first layer should have a line width of at least 0.5 mm. In order to get the sharpest possible blade, you should choose a smooth printing surface if possible.</p><p>The locking mechanism has been optimized for PLA, so I recommend this filament for the handle. You can also print the blades with PLA - as long as you don&#39;t scratch on a bed that&#39;s too hot for PLA. In this case, I would recommend a more heat-resistant filament, for example PETG.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p><strong>Assembly:</strong></p><p>That is very easy. Simply slide the blade into the handle. <strong>But be careful</strong> - the blades are sharp, so don&#39;t push them in with your finger, but insert them loosely and then push them all the way by pressing the blade on a solid surface.</p>

Optimized Bed Scraper XL

mona

Basti85

<p>Hi guys,</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>..finally here it is → my BIG Spiral Lamp V2 [WLED] :)</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>I heard your voices and created the lamp from scratch in order to make a lot of things easier. I also added a video tutorial howto assemble the lamp. everything is in realtime and you will see how easy it is. the assembly will not take longer than 5 minutes!</p><p>&nbsp;</p><h3>Features:</h3><ul><li>full support of <strong>WLED</strong></li><li><strong>easy print</strong> with less filament compared to the previous version</li><li>really <strong>easy assembly</strong>!</li><li>the <strong>WOW </strong>effect :)</li></ul><p>&nbsp;</p><h3>You need some hardware:</h3><ul><li>1.5m ws2812b LEDs (3x30 LEDs or 3x50cm stripes)<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0BTVBTHQ5?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0BTVBTHQ5?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details</a></li></ul></li><li>2x3 male, 3x3 female wires for soldering. I used these jumper wires: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01EV70C78/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01EV70C78/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1</a></li><li>1 x ESP32-C3 for WLED → I used this one: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0CPY6LMSJ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0CPY6LMSJ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details</a></li><li>solder skills</li></ul><h2><strong><u>If you want to use another board contact me and send me the size(s). I will try to also create a fitting lid for your board! Currently the profile contains a “standard” size for ESP32 mini boards with 35mmx28mm (length/width).</u></strong></h2><h3> </h3><h3>How to print:</h3><p>First of all please <strong>READ </strong>the <strong>whole instructions</strong>!</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>As I wanted to make the assembly as easy as possible I decided to design a guided rail for the stripes. Everything matches perfectly to each other especially the diffusors. BUT - you really have to make sure to use <strong>CALIBRATED (or BAMBU-), DRYED FILAMENT</strong>! I will really be pissed when someone is giving a bad vote due to the fact he was unable to READ! ..and believe me - this happens a lot and is really frustrating.. The printer is doing it's job pretty well but this does not exclude any work / maintainment!</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Here are some rules / hints to get a perfect result:</p><ol><li>USE A <strong>CLEAN </strong>PRINT BED!</li><li>USE <strong>CALIBRATED OR BAMBU </strong>FILAMENT!</li><li>USE <strong>DRY </strong>FILAMENT!</li><li>USE <strong>NORMAL </strong>SPEED!</li><li><strong>REMOVE </strong>ALL SUPPORTS <strong>CAREFULLY</strong></li><li>MAKE SURE TO <strong>REMOVE ALL SUPPORTS </strong>FROM THE DIFFUSORS ESPECIALLY THE <strong>BRIM</strong></li></ol><p>When you don't want to use my print profile pay attention to the following points:</p><ul><li>use NO infill for the diffusors</li><li>use max. 2 walls for the diffusors as with more walls less light will come through</li><li>you need stabilization for printing the diffusors & the two main lamp parts → NO supports WON'T work! (I already tried that with my big spiral lamp V1 and always failed due to the height and small movements caused by the mass inertia). tree supports work best.</li><li>the lid surfaces should be printed in a circular way. so ensure to choose a propper setting for the bottom & top layer!</li></ul><p>&nbsp;</p><h3>The filament I used:</h3><ul><li><strong>transparent eSun</strong> filament for the diffusors. You can also use the <strong>Bambu PETG Basic profile</strong> and have no issues! <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07FXVGYKL?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07FXVGYKL?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details</a></li><li><strong>Bambu black</strong>:<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://eu.store.bambulab.com/de/products/pla-matte-filament?variant=43992833261787" rel="nofollow noopener">https://eu.store.bambulab.com/de/products/pla-matte-filament?variant=43992833261787</a></li></ul></li><li><strong>Giantarm gold silk</strong> as I ran out of bambu gold silk :P. You can also use the <strong>Bambu PLA silk profile</strong> and have no issues!<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07RZRJNJ7?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07RZRJNJ7?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1</a></li></ul></li></ul><p>&nbsp;</p><h2>How to assemble:</h2><h3>Preparations:</h3><ul><li>Cut the LEDs (3 stripes)<ul><li>If you are using the 60LEDs per meter stripe then count 30 LEDs and then cut it. Insert the stripe and test whether the lenght matches (it should - you can also cut after checking ;))</li><li>If you are not using the 60LEDs per meter stripe measure the length → just insert the stripe into the lamp. The leds should end within the lamps body on both sides this way (you just see a small edge of the stripe):</li></ul></li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:358.172px;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/492666/2024-01-26_aaf4660e5154c.jpg"></figure><ul><li>Cut the cables in the half, strip the insulation and solder <strong>ONLY the females to the inputs (see the arrows on the stripe!)</strong>:<ul><li>always use the male plug for the output and the females for the input</li></ul></li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:54.08%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/492666/2024-02-01_bb8490ea4ece6.jpg"></figure><ul><li>Flash the ESP32C3 board like described <a target="_blank" href="https://kno.wled.ge/basics/install-wled-flasher" rel="nofollow noopener">here</a>:<ul><li>Download the <a target="_blank" href="https://github.com/srg74/WLED-wemos-shield/tree/master/resources/Firmware/WLED_%20ESP_Flasher" rel="nofollow noopener">flasher software</a></li><li>Download the <a target="_blank" href="https://github.com/Aircoookie/WLED/releases/download/v0.14.1/WLED_0.14.1_ESP32-C3.bin" rel="nofollow noopener">binary</a> (this is the one fore ESP32C3 - if you use a different board then you have to select another bin)</li><li>Flash how it is <a target="_blank" href="https://kno.wled.ge/basics/install-wled-flasher" rel="nofollow noopener">described</a></li></ul></li><li>May already configure WLED starting at 3. from <a target="_blank" href="https://kno.wled.ge/basics/getting-started/" rel="nofollow noopener">here</a> (if you have any issues just ask here and I will help you guiding through)</li></ul><h2>Now watch the assembly video:</h2><figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://youtu.be/ceD4M16myqs?si=BCj6RpDOADKQh1TV"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ceD4M16myqs" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><h2>Now the lamp is assembled. Push / Pull the stripes from the two sides this way and solder the males:</h2><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/492666/2024-02-01_5d4d2a369e61a.jpg"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/492666/2024-02-01_776b62f856b53.jpg"></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><h2>Push the stripes back (never pull the cables) and connect everything. Start from the side with the two female stripes. Choose the one you will use as input from the board. Follow with your eyes to the other side. Connect the males at this side with the only females. Follow the female stripe back to the other side. Connect the males with the females of the remaining stripe (NOT the one which is the board input).</h2><h2>Now connect your board. The PIN setting is the following way:</h2><ul><li>green is LED+ → it connects to 5V</li><li>grey is LED- → it connects to ground</li><li>white is DATA → it connects to GPIO2</li></ul><h4><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/492666/2024-01-26_700da7886dffe.jpg"></h4><h2>Power the board. When your solder-points are ok the first 30 LEDs of the lamp should shine orange. That is the default setting in WLED to check whether everything works. If you have already configured WLED then all 90LEDs should shine (if not either your solder-points are not ok or you connected the wrong stripes :P).</h2><h2>You are done :) Enjoy your new lamp and leave a <u>like</u> :) (don't forget to assemble the lids :P)</h2><p>BR,</p><p>B@sti</p>

BIG Spiral Lamp V2 [WLED]

namai

sipura

<p>Hello,</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>We made a new bowl model.</p><p>Simply design, fits everywhere and you can use them for lot of things.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>I use them for holding my car keys in one place.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Both plates are printed with PLA.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p><strong>After you have printed both pieces, turn the bowl upside down and carefully insert the tripod legs into it.</strong><br>There is no need for glue, it holds perfectly even like this.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Enjoy printing and feel free to post pictures of your finished prints in the comments.</p>

Bowl tripod

Vilija 

Martin Kozak

<p><i>Disclaimer 1: This is NOT a Lego Technic.</i></p><p><i>Disclaimer 2: Model is huge, 57 cm long and needs almost 5 kg of filament. PLA recommended.</i></p><p>&nbsp;</p><h3>Postprocessing</h3><ul><li>Remove supports.</li><li>Use deburring tool to remove sacrificial bridging inside the holes.</li></ul><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/406774/2023-12-30_7f665c461fbba.jpg"></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><h3>Assembly</h3><ul><li>See attached assembly guide.</li><li>Due to the printer tolerances and nature of FDM printing, sometimes you'll need to apply more strength to assemble, some parts will be little loose and need a glue to secure it in position and whole drive train will need a lubrication in order to make it work smoothly (PTFE lubrication or silicion oil in spray recommended).</li></ul><p>See my other upscaled creation: https://makerworld.com/en/models/133466#profileId-144763</p>

mona

namai

Vilija

juliukas