lokijorgensen

MiX&BitS

He is very cute! I sculpted it yesterday and it went directly to print test!You can print it in 4 colours (5 or 6 takes a little bit too much time but would be more accurate with light brown eyes and dark yellow muzzle-the part under the nose, but 4 colors will do) or in 1 and colour it yourself.Please, be carful with the whiskers and the support removal. I put a tree light support but you can switch to normal tree if you prefer.P.S. If you want to give him a friend, you find Odie here <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/229656#profileId-247048" rel="nofollow noopener">Baby Odie 4 colours by MiX&amp;BitS - MakerWorld</a>&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000225349/design/2024-03-08_1298354bf0919.jpg">I hope you like it!Enjoy!

Baby Garfield 4 colours

cute

Crea_Hicks

Use it to decorate your room and epress your 3d printing hobby!&nbsp;-no supports needed-no raft needed-fast and easy&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/763476/2024-03-24_dce3b6098ad7a.jpeg">&nbsp;ASSEMBLY:&nbsp;1: remove all the parts from the connector bars2: press the 6 wheels on the 6 rims3: press the rims with the wheels on the axle so that it looks like in picture 54: connect the main body parts with the hoods and front, as well the backplate5: glue the seats onto the chassis if desired6: connect the main body with the chassis&nbsp;Now you have got your fully 3d printed functional G63 6x6 Brabus!&nbsp;If you have any questions or recommendations, please feel free to contact me.

G63 6x6 Brabus - Kit Card

Gaslands

AlexY_

Update: I&#39;ve finally gotten around to finishing up the motorized version of this design. Check it out here: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/495262" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/495262</a>&nbsp;<figure class="media"></figure><figure class="media"></figure>This is a complete rework of my functional escalator model from 2022. It is a ground-up redesign incorporating a bunch of significant changes, including the following:<ul><li>Chain links now sit directly against the escalator steps. This allows the entire chain and step assembly to be put together in 1 step and reduces the sliding friction experienced by the mechanism.</li><li>An assembly jig is provided that holds the steps together when installing chain links, reducing assembly time and difficulty. No more partial disassembly to get the chain on both sides of the steps.</li><li>Fine-tuned the sizing and geometry of the moving parts. The model incorporates larger and fewer steps resulting in a lower part count. Larger pins on the steps reduce friction and make the parts easier to print.</li><li>Steps now have a realistic groove pattern.</li><li>Variants of the parts are provided that eliminate all M3 nuts, with the bolts going directly into the plastic, reducing part count and simplifying assembly. Note that the hex nut version is still available if you&#39;re concerned about stripping out the holes in the plastic.</li></ul>This model comes in two variants:<ul><li>A standard size, containing 30 steps, which is slightly bigger than the 2022 design.</li><li>A mini/short size, containing 22 steps.</li></ul>If you want to make an even smaller, palm sized fidget version, I&#39;ve created a much smaller variant here: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/447059#profileId-353657" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/447059#profileId-353657</a>  &nbsp;If you&#39;d prefer buying one assembled, I&#39;m now selling these on Etsy! Visit my store here: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/AYMakes/" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.etsy.com/shop/AYMakes/</a><h3>Parts required</h3>Non-Printed<ul><li>8 M3x14mm bolts (can substitute these for longer bolts, within reason)</li><li>5 M3x10mm bolts (can also substitute these for longer bolts)</li></ul>PrintedThe standard size and mini escalator share all parts except for the track guides and handrails. You will need:<ul><li>30 steps for standard size, or 22 steps for mini size</li><li>60 chain links for standard size, or 44 chain links for mini size</li><li>2 end caps</li><li>1 left outer track guide and 1 right outer track guide</li><li>1 left inner track guide and 1 right inner track guide</li><li>1 left handrail and 1 right handrail</li><li>1 spindle</li><li>1 drive-side sprocket and 1 non-drive-side sprocket</li></ul>I recommend printing the steps, sprockets and spindle in a different color from the rest of the model to provide some contrast.<h3>Print settings and tips</h3>Although easier to print than the 2022 model, this design is still relatively challenging to print and works best with a well-calibrated printer.<ul><li>0.15 layer height or lower strongly recommended for steps and chain links. 0.2mm will work for the other parts, though lower layer heights may be smoother.</li><li>Infill recommended to be 5% or higher.</li><li>No need for supports, rafts, etc. The steps may be prone to warping due to the thin pins on the sides, so make sure your bed is very clean to give it its best chance of sticking.</li><li>I only tested this model with PLA, but PETG and others may work too. It is critical that stringing and blobbing be kept to a minimum on all parts that slide against each other (chain links, steps, track guides), so tune your retraction and pressure advance values the best you can.<ul><li>Important note: Some filaments seem to have higher sliding friction than others, especially ones with metallic glitter added in, such as Prusament&#39;s Galaxy filament colors. For best results avoid printing the track guides in these materials.</li></ul></li><li>Make sure your bed leveling is dialed in very well when printing the steps and chain links. After printing, verify that the chain links are able to slip onto the steps without resistance. Any friction here will make it harder to move the mechanism in the assembled model.</li></ul><h3>Assembly guide</h3><figure class="media"></figure><ol><li>(Not shown in video) If applicable, press M3 nuts into the inner track guides (2 locations each) and end caps (4 locations each). If they don&#39;t fit tightly, dab on a small amount of glue to keep them in - hot glue or superglue should work. This will make assembly easier.</li><li>Place all steps into the assembly jig. Ensure that the longer pins are closer to the outer edge of the jig, and that the flat sides of the steps are facing outward as well.</li><li>Place chain links onto the longer (outer) pins. These should be placed such that the links alternate between being below or above its neighbors.</li><li>Place the right inner track guide into the center of the steps. Make sure the circular hole (which will hold the spindle) is on the top (right) end and that the inner (shorter) pins all rest inside the inner groove, with the outer pins sitting against the outer edge of the guide.</li><li>Place the right handrail guide on top of the assembly. The outer pins of the steps should all be contained within the guide.</li><li>Place the drive (right) side sprocket onto the top right side of the right inner track guide. The sprocket teeth should mesh with the outer pins of the steps.</li><li>Place the right outer track guide on top of the assembly. Verify that all the step pins are contained within the part, and that the outer track guide sits flush against the handrail guide and inner guide.</li><li>Attach the inner and outer guide using 2 M3x10mm bolts.</li><li>Flip the whole assembly over so that the assembly jig faces upwards. Carefully remove the assembly jig, making sure that none of the steps get pulled upwards with it. If this occurs, repeatedly tap on the jig while slowly lifting it to free the stuck steps.</li><li>The other side of the step piece pins should now be facing upwards. Repeat step 3 for this side.</li><li>Repeat steps 4-7 for this side. When installing the sprocket, make sure that the holes and teeth line up with the sprocket on the opposite side.</li><li>Insert the spindle from the right side, passing through both sprockets and both inner guides. The spindle should fit into the cutout in the non-drive-side sprocket. Attach the non-drive-side sprocket to the spindle using a single M3x10mm bolt.</li><li>Attach the end cap pieces to the top and bottom ends of the model. Secure each one with four M3x14mm bolts.</li><li>Give the knob a turn to see if the mechanism moves smoothly. If not, proceed to the troubleshooting steps below.</li></ol>Troubleshooting<ul><li>Mechanism completely frozen<ul><li>Make sure all the lower (shorter) pins of the steps are sitting within the groove of the inner guides.</li><li>Check the same thing for the outer/handrail guides.</li><li>Ensure that all the steps are installed in the correct orientation. Refer to the picture in step 2.</li><li>Verify the chain is attached properly to all steps.</li></ul></li><li>Mechanism works but steps sometimes get stuck in the same spot(s)<ul><li>Check for burrs, strings, or blobs on the outer or inner track guides, and file them off.</li></ul></li><li>Generally hard to turn but smooth<ul><li>Check that the chain links loosely fit onto the step pins. If there&#39;s significant resistance, this will make the steps harder to move. This usually indicates that your bed is leveled too close and the first layer is squishing out too much. You can increase your z offset or add some elephant foot compensation to resolve.</li><li>The steps should be able to freely move left and right by about 1mm or so. If they appear to ride tightly against both sides, consider printing the chain links at a lower Z scale (e.g. 90% or 80%) to make a bit more room.</li><li>A small amount of grease can free things up if still not totally smooth. Add a bit to the inner track guide groove to lubricate the lower pins, and add a bit to the inner surface of the handrail guide to lubricate the upper pins and chain links.</li></ul></li><li>Squeaky<ul><li>Grease should help with this - see above</li></ul></li><li>Sprockets not driving chain or slipping<ul><li>Make sure the spindle is fully inserted into the non-drive-side sprocket and that the bolt is fully tightened.</li></ul></li></ul>

Functional Escalator Model - Redux

odd stuff 

GekoPrime

I tried another spool winder but found it finicky and delicate.I designed this winder from scratch to be simple and robust, using the same self reversing leadscrew mechanism found on industrial cable windersWhy pick this model:<ul><li>Prints on a single build plate</li><li>Doesn't require heat set inserts or exotic hardware</li><li>Fusion and STEP files are available, remixes welcomed</li><li>Generous clearances, simple mechanisms</li><li>Designed to be a tool, not a project</li></ul>Print time:<ul><li>~500 grams of filament</li><li>~22 hours on Bambu Lab X1</li><li>~5 minute assembly</li><li>~2 minute spool transfer</li></ul>Hardware requirements:<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/s?k=608+bearings" rel="nofollow noopener">14x 608 skate bearings</a></li><li>A scrap of PTFE tubing</li><li>An electric screwdriver or drill with <a target="_blank" href="https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-MAXFIT-3-5-in-2-Philips-Bit-DWA3PH2MF/309474882" rel="nofollow noopener">a bit cut from ¼ inch hex stock</a> (most <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/ITP1201-SCRWDRVNG-2IN-1-IMPAC/dp/B01LZZ7AOS/" rel="nofollow noopener">cheap quick change Philips bits</a> in the US fit this requirement)</li></ul>Print settings:<ul><li>Any. I used "0.16mm Optimal" in BambuSlicer with 5% adaptive cubic infill </li><li>Use 100% concentric infill for spindle_male_driven</li><li>Try the STLs if you have a problem with the 3mf files. I’ve added (xN) to each file name so you know how many to print</li></ul>Materials:<ul><li>Any. I used Polyterra and iiidmax PLA+</li><li>Use TPU for tpu_consumable_wiper_blade. I used Priline 98a. The wiper blades aren’t 100% required but they help keep the windings nice and tight</li></ul>Assembly and usage:<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://youtu.be/DxgkYDrRK-U" rel="nofollow noopener">Demo video</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://youtu.be/-Hy69YwRLBw" rel="nofollow noopener">Assembly video</a></li><li>The side that says “Pastamatic" needs to face outwards, away from the spool</li><li>The filament needs to come in under the target spool, like this: O____O<ul><li>[not like this: O‾”‾”‾”O]</li></ul></li><li>The drill/driver needs to run clockwise, as though you're screwing something in</li><li>Accelerate slowly until the winder gets started</li></ul>Change log<ul><li>2023-05-28<ul><li>Initial release</li></ul></li><li>2023-05-29<ul><li>Fix a minor export glitch in "leadscrew_tooth"</li><li>Increase the number of “pin_short” instances in the 3mf from 6x to 8x</li></ul></li><li>2023-05-30<ul><li>Add a second prearranged 3mf with two plates to avoid overlap warnings</li><li>Disable autogenerated brims for the single plate 3mf </li><li>Add STLs for people who have trouble with the 3mf</li></ul></li><li>2023-06-03<ul><li>Add a ring to passive_target_cradle to prevent the far end of the target spool lifting if a user lets the the drill hang loose</li><li>Add a pin to driven_target_cradle prevent the leadscrew popping out</li><li>Fix a minor clearance issue where a dovetail didn't fit quite right</li></ul></li><li>2023-09-30<ul><li>Reduce chamfer on the crossbars to prevent them falling over when bed adhesion is poor</li><li>Add some holes to the crossbars to make them easier to screw down</li><li>Add some popular acessories to the all-in-one .3mf</li><li>Add a printable spool to the all-in-one .3mf</li></ul></li></ul>How to contribute:<ul><li>Post your make, it keeps me motivated to improve the model when I see people using it!</li><li>Post your feedback, idea or remix in the comments!</li><li>There are a few improvements and accessories in development as remixes, check those out if you‘re up for the alpha/beta tester experience<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/498743-pastamatic-37-mm-motor-mount" rel="nofollow noopener">Adapter for 37mm gear motor</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/556405-pastamatic-filament-spool-winder-modifications-bra" rel="nofollow noopener">Source spool holder for 5 KG spools</a></li></ul></li></ul>Credits:<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@MiklosKiszely_486882" rel="nofollow noopener">@MiklosKiszely_486882</a> for the original idea</li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@PsychoShaft_33891" rel="nofollow noopener">@Psycho Shaft</a> for the drag/tensioner concept</li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://www.youtube.com/@thang010146" rel="nofollow noopener">thang010146</a> for YouTube videos of mechanical mechanisms, particularly the self reversing leadscrew for a level cable winder</li></ul>&nbsp;

Pastamatic  Filament Spool Winder for Bambu X1C/P1P AMS (level winder with self reversing leadscrew)

pastamatic

Willy wonka

kace3d

Flux Capacitor Time Travel Device&nbsp;I created this model to print in parts and glue together, thus saving so many filament changes and purge poops from my <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/133140#profileId-144378" rel="nofollow noopener">original single print model</a>. It also saves around 7 hours of print time.&nbsp;You can easily color each part however you like in Bambu Studio.

Flux Capacitor Parts Version To Assemble

back to the future 

fay3dlab

It time for another suspended model.. this time i'm making the batman's batsignal.. I've intergrated the Bambu Lab LED kit into the batsignal.. so you just have to buy the kit from bambu store and you are done.. Printing this in multicolor so that you can use transparent filament for some of the model to make the model pop out.. And it would make the batman logo looks like it actually floats..&nbsp;<blockquote>If you're thinking of buying the LED kit.. please do support me by using my affliate link here.. <a target="_blank" href="https://shrsl.com/4g18i" rel="nofollow noopener">LED LAMP KIT 001</a> every little things helps me out..</blockquote><figure class="table" style="height:162.344px;width:960px;"><table style="background-color:rgb(255, 255, 255);border:1px double rgb(179, 179, 179);"><tbody><tr><td style="border:1px solid rgb(191, 191, 191);padding:0.4em;">If you would like to support me, you can join me on my <a target="_blank" href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/fay3dlab" rel="nofollow noopener">buymeacoffee</a> page..</td></tr><tr><td style="border:1px solid rgb(191, 191, 191);padding:0.4em;">By joining me as a supporter.. you'll be able to get behind the scenes informationon my current projects as well as future projects..</td></tr><tr><td style="border:1px solid rgb(191, 191, 191);padding:0.4em;">And if you're looking to sell my prints.. you can join my merchant membership tier as lowas USD10 a month..</td></tr></tbody></table></figure>

Suspended Batsignal with LED kit 001

Batman signal

3DMN

Recommended to use PETG as support/raft interface.&nbsp;Embark on an epic journey through the cosmos with our SSV Normandy SR-1 Mass Effect Build Kit! Immerse yourself in the iconic world of Mass Effect as you assemble this highly detailed replica of Commander Shepard&#39;s legendary starship. This meticulously crafted model captures the essence of the Normandy SR-1&nbsp;If you appreciate my work, give it a like, and if you love it, consider buying me a coffee to show your support! <a target="_blank" href="https://www.paypal.com/donate?hosted_button_id=BC7SWTMZG92TG" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.paypal.com/donate?hosted_button_id=BC7SWTMZG92TG</a>

Mass Effect SSV Normandy SR-1 Build kit 

mass effect

Blade Runner 2049 K pistol&nbsp;This is a replica of K's pistol from Blade Runner 2049.Its multicolor with the following dim: x241,5 y145,5 and z40&nbsp;&nbsp;If you appreciate my work, give it a like, and if you love it, consider buying me a coffee to show your support! <a target="_blank" href="https://www.paypal.com/donate?hosted_button_id=BC7SWTMZG92TG" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.paypal.com/donate?hosted_button_id=BC7SWTMZG92TG</a>

Blade Runner 2049 K's Blaster

Blade Runner 

Jake M

This model was supposed to be a ghost but I was struggling to find good tutorials so I just decided to experiment and make my own thing. I haven't seen one of those yet so I hope you like the idea. : )

Deadpool Ghost

Deadpool

DutchWorkX3D

check my FB page https://www.facebook.com/groups/bambu3d4all There is a lot of info and help there ;-)&nbsp;I designed v3 from scratch based on the v2 version.It now has more strength and more place for honeycomb / hex add-ons.I have added:<ul><li>Honeycomb / Hex Ledstrip holder</li><li>Honeycomb / Hex Build plate holder</li><li>Honeycomb / Hex Top glass holder</li></ul><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/176841/2023-09-27_0064ddb96eb55.gif">I have added the 3mf file with the settings, of course you can adjust to your own settings.I get a lot of requests and I don't mind following up on them as it makes these projects more interesting, although it takes a lot of time I really don't mind spending my time but I would appreciate it if you join the club as club members can be assured I follow up on their requests.If you like you can join my Bambu3D4All FB page https://www.facebook.com/groups/bambu3d4all/

X3D-v3 Riser | Bambu Lab X1/P1 AMS Stand

p1s accessories 

SavagePat

I made a remix of <a target="_blank" href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5154830" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5154830</a> to function as a tree topper for our christmas tree.