lloydliu

make 3D

The Perpetual Calendar&nbsp;A fully 3D printed calendar. No Magnets, no bolts, no glue and no screws are needed. Just 3D printed parts.  If you don't have an AMS unit, you can just print the date/month tiles in one color - Then you use a Posca Marker or similar to add the date and months.&nbsp;I seperated each color print (besides the date/months tiles) to individual print plates. Please move these around as you please for faster or more eficient prints.&nbsp;NB: When assembling the calendar please only tighten the axis so you can still move the date and month individually.&nbsp;The indicator tiles needs to be inserted in this order.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:56.57%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/467143/2023-12-30_2ce15f6f96ba7.png"></figure>NOTE: The two housings are not the same.The centerblock one for the days is 31,4mm - The centerblock for the months is 28,8mm&nbsp;If you’re having issues with adhesion in general with your printer - please use the print profile with added brim to the threaded axis. &nbsp;Please have a look at this assembly video I've made. If you follow these steps it's a very simple assembly.<figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://youtu.be/XVZG9G0sLQw"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/XVZG9G0sLQw" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure>This video shows how to orient the date tiles so the calendar works as intended.<figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://youtu.be/AJB0iBZT9bc"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/AJB0iBZT9bc" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure>&nbsp;Please make sure you print bed is clean when printing the multicolor parts to ensure maximum adhesion.&nbsp;Due to the nature of 3D printed parts being very light, you might encounter that the tiles won't fall down immediately. If this happens just give the housing a little tap and it should fall into place.&nbsp;My calendar is printed with these filaments:Sunlu PLA+ White (I am having bed adhesion issues with this filament - I recommend Bambu PLA White instead)Sunlu PLA+ BlackBambu Lab PLA Basic Orange UPDATE 31-12-2023:Uploaded a new print profile. Version V1.1Made a few modifications to the two housings so the tiles would fall down more consistently.This update also reduces the print time by more than 1 hour.&nbsp; UPDATE 08-01-2024:Some users have been complaining/leaving low ratings about the ironing of the tiles or bed adhesion.  Please modify this yourself within Bambu Studio if your printer is not well calibrated or maintained.  Also, make sure your printer bed is clean from any grease.  I've had zero issues with my own prints. both ironing and bed adhesion.  Printed on a P1S.&nbsp;&nbsp;

"Date Keeper" Perpetual Flip Calendar (Fully 3D printed)

玩具

fay3dlab

Im currently upgrading most of my suspended models to include channel to install led strips in them.. So for the suspended star destroyer V2.. since its already in 2 parts.. i added a channel path so you can install a LED strips around the outer frame.. and i put small holes in the inner frame so that the lights from the LED shines through to the ship..&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/516767/2024-01-01_27386ae7989a8.gif"></figure>&nbsp;If you're interested in getting the LED strips.. here's my affiliate link to buy it.. 5V USB RGB LED Strip Light https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_oEk0hDa &nbsp;The ship itself is modelled by nikoli2803 from thingerverse.. the circular frame is the imperial logo itself.. the whole frame i modelled it to look like the deathstar.. everything was done using Tinkercad..&nbsp;The ship itself comes in 2 parts.. front and back.. and there are 3 clips to hold both side of the ship together.. the bottom clip will be the stand for the whole suspended star destroyer and the 2 clips works on any side..Its a bit tricky to assemble since you cant put both parts of the ship down since its suspended on the strings..<ul><li>so my suggestion is to put the bottom clip down on a table and then put the 2 parts into the clip..</li><li>it should fit snuggly together..</li><li>once the frame can stand on its own.. you can put the other 2 clips onto the frame..</li></ul>When printing suspended models.. one important thing to remember is to set the wall generator to arachne from classic.. this will make the slicer print the strings..&nbsp;I hope you guys have fun printing this new version of the suspended imperial star destroyer..

Suspended Star Destroyer V2 LED strips

手办

marcopiazzo95

The written number, expressed in millimeters, represents the distance between the outer wall and the inner wall. The difference in diameter is twofoldOnly 3 grams.&nbsp;The 0.05 gap should only be free to spin if you print with a 0.2mm nozzle. With the 0.4mm nozzle the slicer does not consider the 0.05mm gap and fuses the 2 parts together, it is not a printer error.&nbsp;&nbsp;Il numero scritto, espresso in millimetri, rappresenta la distanza tra la parete esterna e quella interna. La differenza sul diametro è doppia.Solo 3 grammi&nbsp;Lo spazio 0.05 dovrebbe essere libero di girare solo se stampi con un ugello da 0.2mm. Con l'ugello da 0.4mm lo slicer non considera lo spazio di 0.05mm e fonde assieme le 2 parti, non è un errore della stampante.

Tollerance Test 3 grams

工具

V3 Precision

This is a spool winder for transferring filament from one spool to another. Inspired by the need to use certain filament spools for the Bambu Lab AMS. This build should speed up the process and give a nice tight winding. There is room for improvement, so feel free to give some feedback either on Printables or on the Youtube videos.This version is 100% 3D printed (not including the mounting screws). Future versions will use bearings and possibly a motor to drive the gears.The images show the assemblies mounted to a 2x6 for testing. The assemblies can be mounted to a similar board or to a base made from aluminum extrusions.&nbsp;Printing RecommendationsI used PLA while developing the spool winder. I would recommend using PETG, or Nylon CF, or other stronger, stiffer filament.The ‘worm’ gear can be tricky to print. In Bambu Lab Studio, I set the part upright and set support to tree (auto) and threshold angle at 10. Set a brim at 8mm.The gears are easy to print and require no support or post processing.The bases need some support and did well with tree (auto) and threshold angle of 30.I used 4 walls and 15% infill on most pieces. The thumbscrews I used 100% infill.&nbsp;AssemblyMost of the assembly is easy and self-explanatory.Note that the rear driven gear is reverse threaded.Specific instructions can be found in an upcoming Instructions Video …….There will also be a link to the video on the V3 Precision website.&nbsp;#best3dp2023<figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://youtu.be/3llHdgb1ftQ?si=rh9tLXTMeOSzBDXe"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/3llHdgb1ftQ" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure><figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://youtu.be/ru2TtLahlmw?si=5opj3V5R-Ab6cPFX"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ru2TtLahlmw" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure>

玩具

手办

工具

配件