laubraupe

Martin Kozak

Paw Patrol lookout tower with functional elevator, door and rotating monocular.&nbsp;Total height about 68 cm.&nbsp;You'll need some M2 and M3 screws and little bit of other hardware to put it together. See <a target="_blank" href="https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1A9oc5LSpIfE7Vjarrvjy8W0-XEy0ydPLYvmmBd9ss7A/edit?usp=sharing" rel="nofollow noopener">BUILD GUIDE.</a>

Paw Patrol Lookout Tower

Amazing

kriswillcode

After seeing many people&#39;s problems with my <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/66672" rel="nofollow noopener">previous fidget switch&#39;</a>s spring, I decided to create a new variant that allows you to adjust the spring&#39;s tension whenever you want. Some days you may want a soft, tactile click; other days you may want a loud, snappy click - this fidget does both! And it even has a more ergonomic form factor!&nbsp;This little switch consists of just eight parts! And, just like my previous switch, you&#39;ll need to print two of some parts. The body of the switch also has two options, because who doesn&#39;t like choices?&nbsp;If you&#39;re looking for a fidget switch that has fewer parts, prints quicker, and uses less filament, check out my <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/467451" rel="nofollow noopener">Print-in-Place Fidget Toggle Switch</a>.&nbsp;<blockquote>⚠ Heads up, hot shot!This is a tricky print. This print has a few small pieces that don&#39;t work with brims. These have limited bed contact, so you&#39;ll need nearly perfect bed adhesion. Because of the small tolerances in this print, your flow rate must also be perfect. Finally, if your printer has any noticeable elephant&#39;s foot, then forget about printing this.</blockquote><h4> </h4><h4>Settings</h4><ul><li>Designed for a 0.4mm nozzle</li><li>0.16mm or 0.2mm layer height</li><li>3 walls</li><li>≥5 top/bottom layers</li><li>20% infill (but more feels better)</li><li>Slice with Arachne if available</li></ul>All files should be in the correct orientation to print. Supports are not required, but a brim will help when printing the pegs. I do not recommend using a brim on the springs as it&#39;s difficult to remove and any brim remnants will interfere with the action of the switch.&nbsp;<h4>What to Print</h4><figure class="table"><table><thead><tr><th>Part</th><th>Qty</th><th>Notes</th></tr></thead><tbody><tr><td>Body</td><td>2</td><td>There&#39;s two options: smooth or grip; print two of the same option</td></tr><tr><td>Peg</td><td>2</td><td>A brim helps here!</td></tr><tr><td>Spring</td><td>2</td><td>Don&#39;t use a brim on these!</td></tr><tr><td>Toggle</td><td>1</td><td> </td></tr><tr><td>Slider</td><td>1</td><td>A lower layer height is preferred here: 0.16mm or 0.12mm</td></tr></tbody></table></figure>&nbsp;<h4>Assembly</h4>The last 7 photos demonstrate the assembly process.<ol><li>Test your prints: Place the slider between the two body halves and verify the slider can slide freely. Then, place a peg in the toggle and verify the toggle can rotate freely.</li><li>Insert both pegs into one side of the body. These will be extremely tight (that&#39;s intentional!!!). If the pegs absolutely won&#39;t fit, you might need to reprint them with the X and Y scale reduced by 0.2 to 0.4% (99.8 to 99.6%).</li><li>Place the springs into the slider and check the orientation: the &#34;arms&#34; of the springs should point towards each other, and the &#34;bump&#34; on the slider should point towards the arms.</li><li>Move the slider towards the rounded ends of the springs and carefully press the springs into the body half from step 2. The springs should be parallel with the bottom of the body.</li><li>Move the slider away from the rounded ends and slip the toggle on the peg. Use a finger to separate the springs for easy placement.</li><li>Check the motion of the slider and the toggle. If everything looks good, place the other half of the body on top and press the two body halves together. Be sure the springs are properly aligned into their respective slots.</li><li>You&#39;re done! Flick away!</li></ol><h4> </h4><h4>Protips</h4><ul><li>This switch is not designed to be disassembled, so good luck with that.</li><li>A drop of lube between the toggle and the peg works great depending on your filament(s).</li><li>A small amount of beeswax applied to the outside of the springs helps if you find the slider difficult to move. But, the slider may shift during some intense switch flipping.</li><li>The pegs require some force to properly insert, but they have to hold the switch together. No other part (e.g. the springs) should require any significant force.</li><li>If you&#39;re rocking an AMS, use &#34;Others &gt; Print sequence &gt; By object&#34; to quickly print all parts on one build plate while using different filaments!</li></ul>&nbsp;If you print one of these switches, please post a make: I love seeing all of your creative color combinations!

Adjustable Fidget Toggle Switch

fidget

TBone_427120

This lampshade is designed for the <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/sv/models/13717#profileId-13429" rel="nofollow noopener">Bambu Led Lamp 001</a> kit ←- Follow this link to get the model for the base that holds the electronics and that this globe shade locks into.&nbsp;This is a moon lithophane model for the LED Lamp kit base built using NASA SVS data.&nbsp;Before printing, it is highly recommended to test and calibrate the filaments. Test Prints are provided in a profile to test the trickier parts of the print, in particular the top of the moon. Printing the sliced off moon top will give an idea if the flow rates need to be calibrated or if the layer heights need refining.Both of these are eSun PLA, and both were printed using the same eSun PLA+ profile. <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000031191/design/2023-10-06_e7cbdab0e3545.jpg"> The one on the left (&#34;creamy&#34;) needed different flow rate settings to avoid the gaps in the thin walls. Moral of the story: spend the extra 20 minutes to at least run the Auto Calibration for a new filament (and Manual isn&#39;t so bad to do either particularly if you print on the textured plate).&nbsp;The extra big brim is out of an abundance of caution. There is nothing worse than being ten minutes from the end of a 17 hour print and hearing *CRACK* followed by a spaghetti detected notification. If the test print indicates your filament needs a small center support for the top of the moon, “Normal/Snug” supports will work best. Use Manual supports (Auto will result in a ton of exterior supports for the base of the moon) and paint a small dot in the underside of the top of the Moon. The latest version of the model has been made a little thicker and is more forgiving for printing with most filaments. The part that interfaces with the lamp kit base can easily be made a different filament to match the LED holder material or just for variety. Just set the base filament for the “ModifyBaseSettings” modifier. Doing will require only one filament purge, no prime tower is necessary.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:41.3%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000031191/design/2023-10-06_33ea3c815b5ef8.png"></figure>&nbsp;If using the modifier to make a material change at the base, make sure to pick two filaments that have good adhesion to each other.Because the print requires supports in the base and cleanly removing those supports is important for a snug fit to the lamp kit base, a test print is provided to make sure the filament and support settings will release cleanly. Normal snug supports provided the best results (tree supports required much more effort).&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:17.23%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000031191/design/2023-10-06_f00e2d2199c81.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;If you do use the center support, when removing don&#39;t pull at individual folds from the bottom. Use something to grab on multiple folds as far up as possible (a pair of kitchen tongs works well) and twist.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:17.52%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000031191/design/2023-10-06_c2509972a68348.jpg"></figure>Twisting will put less stress on the top of the sphere and less risk of pulling away the moon surface. If you have wisps of filaments, resist the urge to use a heat gun because the variable thickness of the shell will contract non-uniformly under the heat. This is the result using a heat gun on a lithophane:<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000031191/design/2023-10-06_a27a97fbc55ec.jpg">&nbsp;

Moon Globe for LED Lamp 001

decor

xmas

GlennovitS 3D

<figure class="image image_resized image-style-align-right" style="width:357px;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000443295/design/ebf4edf9-71a0-4619-836c-f7a0530f381b.gif"></figure>Dice-tower for hardcore tabletop gaming - probably not this one. But a dice-tower for family gaming - oh yes! Having kids, I know the feeling of saying: throw the dice - and then I need to pick it up in the other end of the living room, because they threw them as far as possible!.. But this is a way to prevent that - have fun while the dice stay on the table for some cozy gaming time. The Rainbow Dice Tower is full of color - and it can be printed without any multi-material systems. It&#39;s all 3D-printed. Let the game begin!<h3>Overview</h3><figure class="image image_resized image-style-side" style="width:357px;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000443295/design/abe18239-5c2c-47b4-807a-bce22a0d3325.webp"></figure>The dice tower is made in parts, for you to assemble and enjoy in the color combo you like! It’s makde in a size so that it can be printed on compact-sized printers with a max print height of 180 mm. It consists of the following parts:<ul><li>Base (and dice tray)</li><li>Center (the column that keeps it all together)</li><li>Stair (uses 21 Stair-parts - and every Stair-part actually consists of 2 steps printed at once)</li><li>Stair Top (almost identical - can use ordinary stair part too)</li></ul><h3>Assembly</h3><figure class="image image_resized image-style-side" style="width:357px;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000443295/design/4a21e146-fadc-4e23-9cb8-4b62df0dc2c8.webp"></figure>This is pretty straight forward - and requires no glue and no screws!<ol><li>Snap of printed supports of the Stair-parts</li><li>Press every Stair-part into the Center-part (Start from the bottom. It&#39;s a snap-fit - not easy to pull out afterwards, and requires a little force to press in)</li><li>Screw the Center onto the Base</li></ol>Have fun!<h3>Print instructions</h3><figure class="image image_resized image-style-side" style="width:357px;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000443295/design/9ec91e01-f7c7-4f4c-96cc-1ca1c808e49c.webp"></figure>Should be somewhat easy to print - but here is a few tips:<ul><li>Supports: Yes on the Stair-parts supports - NO supports on Center and Base</li><li>Brim: Maybe. It can help with bed adhession on the Center - but not needed on Base and Stairs</li><li>Orientation: The parts should be oriented correctly</li></ul>Happy printing!<h3>Want to show your support?</h3>You can see ALL my designs on Printables- and you can become an active supporter. I would really appreciate it!<a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@GlennovitS3D#join" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.printables.com/@GlennovitS3D#join</a>

Rainbow Dice Tower (no AMS/MMU needed)

toys

colin.beaumont90

The wife wanted some Dino hooks for the toddlers room, so that what she got! I printed these at 70% infill and the hook is very strong; easily holds a towel for prolonged periods of time.

Dinosaur Hooks

hooks

filipmalm

Foldable stand for your phone when it's movie time!

Foldable Phone Stand

office

markrdrew

Bicycle Cell phone holder remix.&nbsp;Son needed a phone holder for his security job mountain bike so he downloaded this and had me print it out. First one didn't grip the thicker GPS unit it was neede for so I made the holders a little taller. The nut for the socket didn't have enough threads to engage fully so I made the nut taller. Then it broke (PLA) so I printed the next one in PAHT-CF. That one broke when the bike fell over, so I strengthened the handlebar brackets and added gussets. Made a few other tweaks to reduce supports and change from fillets to chamfers where needed to reduce overhang issues.

Universal Handlebar Phone Mount V2

stroller

evets17

This is my take on a Combination Lock Box. The inspiration for this was wanting to provide a personal/fun touch when giving money or gift cards for birthday gifts and such. The lock box works by needing to rotate each of the four dials to have the proper symbol aligned at the top, to unlock. What dials are used and combination, can be personalized. For an added personal touch, can include a top handle of choice as well. I&#39;ve included STEP and Fusion 360 files for creating own custom dials and handles. My hope is others will be inspired to post and share more dials and handles.&nbsp;Read below for instructions/guide on what to print, or watch this video for a complete overview:<a target="_blank" href="https://youtu.be/0qXBNaXlVUY" rel="nofollow noopener">3D Print Personal Combo Box Assembly</a>&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/864192/2024-03-13_6bb83b9ced7f.png">&nbsp;Print settings: No Supports or Extra Parts needed, and Glue Optional. I print every part using .2 layer height with 8% cubic infill. All my prints were done with PLA of various types, brands, colors.&nbsp;Here is a tutorial video I threw together for creating own custom handles and dials:<a target="_blank" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YlPS_-ZuGHY" rel="nofollow noopener">3D Print Personalized Combination Box - Dial/Handle tutorial</a>&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/864192/2024-03-13_1908a85e7b56f.png">&nbsp;<h3>Core Parts</h3>The following are base parts that all lock boxes will need:MainBox (x1) - This is the core box and is the largest part to be printedInnerDial (x4) - This dial will be &#39;internal&#39; and are a core part of the locking mechanism, need 4 of these.LowerLockDisc (x8) - The lower lock discs are also internal part of the locking mechanism, need 8 of these (don&#39;t worry these are small)&nbsp;<h3>Core Assembly</h3>First set the MainBox on its side so one of the sides is facing upwards. Insert two LowerLockDisc through the square &#39;access&#39; slots in the side of the Main Box (Note these discs will be loose until the Inner Dial is put in). With the Box still positioned on its side, slide one of the Inner Dials into the slot, position it so its center hole aligns with the Box side hole. Once this inner dial is in place, you can freely rotate the box, as the lock discs will be secure in place. Repeat this same thing for each of the other 3 sides. NOTE: When inserting the inner dial, you don&#39;t need to worry about which way it&#39;s facing. I do like to insert it such that the rounded part of the inner hole is facing up, just to make inserting the couplers later a little easier.&nbsp;<h3>Outer Dials</h3>Dialnn_desc (x4) - What outer dials you print will be based on personal preference. Note the dials come in 3 flavors of 8, 10, or 12 choices.DialCouplernn (x4) - Each dial needs an accompanying DialCoupler (e.g. an 8 choice dial would use the DialCoupler08, and so on). The 08 versions use an Octagon connector, The 10 version use a 10 point star connector, and the 12 use a 12 point star. The reason for the 3 connector types, is because need to be able to align any choice on the dials.&nbsp;Two Color Printing: Dials have raised &#39;etching&#39;, to do two color printing, set filament change at layer 22 (assuming .2 layer height)&nbsp;The Dial08_EmojiFace dial can be printed with 3 colors to great effect. For this, set change at layer 22 and again at layer 24.<h3> </h3><h3>Outer Dial Assembly</h3>First need to insert a DialCoupler, from the inside of box, through the InnerDial (this can be the most fiddly part of the whole assembly). Note: the coupler will only go through the inner dial one way. Look for where the rounded part of the InnerDial hole is positioned, and align the coupler to match. The coupler has arrows on both the inner and outer sides that point to the &#39;top&#39; (or rounded position). This connection is designed to be a tight fit, a decent amount of force may be needed. (The first time, it may be good to test out this fit outside the box, just to get a sense of how coupler sets into the inner dial).&nbsp;Once the coupler is in place, then take the appropriate outer dial and position the desired &#39;combination value&#39; to align with the arrow on the coupler. The dial will be in an unlocked position when the arrows on the coupler are pointing straight up, this is the guide for setting the outer dial to the desired value. Once positioned, press the coupler and outer dial together, the fit is designed to be tight, and press fit may be good enough. Initially I do not advise super gluing the dials until everything is set, can always &#34;pop&#34; the outer dial off later and apply super glue if wanting to ensure outer dials don&#39;t come off from coupler.&nbsp;TIP: Initially the dials may &#34;stick&#34; or turn somewhat difficult. Perform some spins with the dials to loosen things up. My experience is that without supports, the holes in the box can have some &#34;rough&#34; elements, which just rotating the dials can smooth out. The dials should spin pretty easily, but still with some friction.&nbsp;<h3>Cover</h3>I&#39;ve designed this lock box to support two flavors of locking:Single Stage = This mode is simplest and only requires printing one of the 1Stage covers. This approach is probably good enough for most cases. Two Stage = This mode has several parts to print, but provides a mode that is very difficult to guess by feel.&nbsp;The core box and dials support either locking mode, so can switch modes later if desired. I recommend using the single stage cover if the lock box is going to be for younger audience. &nbsp;There are two types of covers for each stage, one with a slot in top (think piggy bank) and one without. So if wanting the lock box to double as a piggy bank, choose WithSlot cover.&nbsp;Single Stage Lock:Cover1Stage_ (x1): print either the WithSlot or NoSlot cover and that&#39;s it.&nbsp;2 Stage Lock:Cover2Stage_ (x1): print either the WithSlot or NoSlot version.UpperLockingDisc (x4): These are part of a &#34;second&#34; locking mechanism, print 4.LockBar (x1): This is part of the internal locking mechanism, print 1.LockChannelCover2Stage (x4): these secure the lock bar and keep lock channel from obstructions (need at least one, but recommend 4)&nbsp;<h3>Cover Assembly</h3>Set all four dials to unlocked positionIf going with the single stage route, then simply, slide the cover onto the box, and scramble the dials.&nbsp;For 2 stage lock:First set the LockBar into the slot made by the outer and inner wall of the MainBox (feet first). With all four dials set to unlocked position, the LockBar will be able to &#34;settle&#34; down. Now insert the 4 upper locking discs into the 4 upper corners of the lock box. They should easily &#39;pop&#39; into place with things being in an unlocked state.&nbsp;Before going further, this is a good time to test things out (without the cover on). The lock bar should slide up and down freely when tipping the box upside down. Make sure to hold your fingers over the top slot so Lock bar doesn&#39;t completely fall out. With the box tipped upside down, turn one of the dials to a locked position, now tip the box upright and the lock bar should be sitting up on the lower lock disc. Turning the &#39;locked&#39; dial to unlock position should cause the lock bar to fall (by gravity). The key is that each lower and upper lock disc moves freely in its channel and the lock bar also slides up and down on its own. If there is any rough edges or print artifacts on the lockbar, could cause enough friction to prevent it from naturally sliding down when unlocked. Once feel good about the lockbar behavior, can try with the cover on. NOTE: when in an unlocked position, the dials will not turn freely, as the lock bar will be blocking. To lock, insert cover, then tip box so that the lock bar slides towards the cover, then turn dials to lock. &nbsp;Try things out, for a bit, and once know things are working. Can add the LockChannelCover2Stage to each corner of the main box. Set the ChannelCover top first, so it sits flush with the inner wall, then snap the bottom in place to the bottom of the lock channel. The Channel Cover not only ensures that the lock bar stays in place when the main cover is off, but also prevents any contents of the box from blocking the lock channel.&nbsp;<h3>Handle (Optional)</h3>Adding a handle to the cover is optional, as the cover does have a &#34;grip&#34; hole, but the handle makes closing and removing the cover easier, and can add a decorative flare to the box. Several handles are provided, but can make own by using provided STEP or Fusion 360 project.&nbsp;Handle (x1): Choose which handle you preferTwo Color Printing: Some handles have raised &#39;etching&#39;, to do two color printing, set filament change at layer 36 (assuming .2 layer height)&nbsp;<h3>Handle Assembly</h3>All versions of the Covers have an octagonal grip &#34;hole&#34; in the top. Note that two of the opposing edges of the octagon are wider apart then the others, this is where the handle is inserted and snapped in, then turn the handle to fully set it in place.&nbsp;Thanks so much for reading, and if you do print one of these, I would love to see pictures. And I encourage anyone to remix dials and handles and post those as well.

Personal Combination Box

gifts

SNASA

This is a small and stealthy minimalist heat insert press designed for CNC Kitchen TS100 heat insert set. I didn&#39;t want to use a counterweight so I made an invisible spring and belt system hidden in the vertical part. Its size makes it perfect for small job on the workbench :<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 42.73%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000430484/design/2024-04-18_a86cd65962c1d.jpg"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 42.59%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000430484/design/2024-04-18_4f0eadde94f.gif"></figure>&nbsp;The sides are super convinient to store everything you need (there is also a spot for a small alen key).&nbsp;I have added the step files if you want to design your own soldering iron mount or use a different base.&nbsp;Miscellaneous:<ul><li>20 * M3 brass insert</li><li>22* M3x8</li><li>1 * M3x6 screw</li><li>2 * M3 Nut</li><li>3 * M3x25 screw</li><li>7 * M5 nut</li><li>6 * M5x10 or M5x12 screw</li><li>1 * M5x16 thumb screw</li><li>2 * GT2 idle pulley ID Ø3mm</li><li>1 * GT2 belt (200mm should be enough)</li><li>1 * Spring or elastic band</li><li>1 * LML12B 200mm linear rail</li><li>1 * <a target="_blank" href="https://cnckitchen.store/products/ts100-101-adapter-tips-set-m2-x-m3-m4-m5-m6-1-4-m8-100-lead-and-cadmium-free" rel="nofollow noopener">CNC kitchen Heat Insert Set</a></li><li>Optional :<ul><li>1 * M4x8 Screw</li><li>1 * M4 nut</li></ul></li></ul>Assembling:<ul><li>Insert M3 brass insert (see red arrow below)</li><li>Use M3x8 screw everywhere except 1 * M3x25 (see orange arrow below)</li><li>Use 1 * M3x6 screw to lock the spring or elastic band</li><li>Use 2 M3x25 to mount the GT2 idle pulley</li><li>Insert M5 Nut (see yellow arrow below)</li><li>Make sure to run the belt before assembling the GT2 idle pulley</li><li>Use a small piece of adhesive tape to secure the belt on the arm mount (makes it so much easier to mount the belt on the sliding carriage)</li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 79.45%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000430484/design/2024-04-18_86b4fd1a3ef78.png"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 35.29%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000430484/design/2024-04-18_75b2c88e1b92e.png"></figure>&nbsp;Print settings:<ul><li>PETG for the soldering iron holder, other part can be printed in PLA</li><li>Layer height : 0.2 mm</li><li>No support</li><li>Print orientation as shown below :</li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 54.24%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000430484/design/2024-04-18_75456e3a941b9.jpg"></figure>

Minimalist Heat Insert Press

tools

Brad - FTBT 3D

I wanted a way to store my 80 piece Bambu Lab filament swatch samples in a clever and satisfying way. Most of the raising holders only held 40, raised swatches up uniformly, and used bearings. I wanted something that could be fully printed, no bearings. And this design raises the swatches up, then abruptly drops them down so you can really see the one in the front and grab it easily.You don't need Bambu Lab swatches for this, I've included a modeled up blank you can use and customize or label on your own.Print Settings:<ul><li>Top Layer Height: 0.20mm</li><li>Bottom Layer Height: adaptive or 0.10mm (for smooth ramp) </li><li>Top & Bottom Surface: Concentric</li><li>Print top upside down</li><li>Use Arachne wall generator for best results</li><li>As designed it will only turn clockwise, mirror base to turn counterclockwise</li></ul>For best turning:<ul><li>Sand the ramp smooth with 220 grit sandpaper if needed</li><li>Put rubber feet on the bottom so the base won't spin while turning the top</li></ul>

Spinning Filament Swatch Display - Lifts Swatches

organization

Tom Skehan

This is a simple radius Gauge design to help measure radii from 1mm-20mm.  It can be used to visualise the size of a part that you are designing on CAD, or to directly place on objects to work out their radius.  The design prints in two files and is three kit cards put together, the pieces are printed in one and the other file is for the two cases/holders.  Total print time is around 3 hours with no AMS or colour changing required.  Once printed the cases/holders can be easily separated from each other with a small amount of force.  The radius gauge pieces come apart just as easily, but may require a quick once over with scissors or a blade to remove the connection tabs in order to properly fit into the case.  All radius gauge parts are labelled in mm from R1-R20.

Kit Card Radius Gauge & Case

CAD construction stuff

Art Design. 3D

Hi there,&nbsp;Here is my sunglasses holder in Line Art design for the sun visor in the car.&nbsp;If you like the model, I would appreciate it if you could take the time to like, follow, or boost it. That helps me continue to create great models for you. Thank you very much in advance.&nbsp;It allows for holding the sunglasses as well as cards. Due to the ergonomic design, the glasses and the cards can be easily inserted without any problems.&nbsp;In my print profile, you will find the holder in a regular version and also with painted stripes for the extra personal touch.&nbsp;Please note that for midsummer, it&#39;s advisable to print the holders with PETG, or even better, with ABS or ASA.&nbsp;If you should have liability issues, use some adhesive like glue stick or 3D lack or brim.&nbsp;If you have any wishes, don&#39;t hesitate to look and simply ask.&nbsp;For more designs check out my<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/@BigKev" rel="nofollow noopener"> !!!COLLECTION!!!</a>&nbsp;If you like my work and want to support me you can buy me a coffee <a target="_blank" href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/big_kev3d" rel="nofollow noopener">HERE</a>If you have any special requirements and need it personalized: just hit me up, I´ll try my best to design it for you.&nbsp;Happy printing!

Sunglasses and Card Clip Holder Car Visor

Multivan

TrocheHole

<figure class="table" style="width: 100%"><table style="background-color: #f5f5f5; border: 12px solid #f5f5f5"><tbody><tr><td><figure class="image image-style-side"><a href="https://makerworld.com/models/459303" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000201311/design/2024-05-10_145eb9783fdb7.jpg"></a></figure><h3>[Information]</h3>The LID model designed specifically for the basket has also been released for this &#34;Purge Chute &amp; Basket&#34; model.<h3><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/models/459303" rel="nofollow noopener">Visit this link to download.</a></h3></td></tr></tbody></table></figure>&nbsp;<h2>Description</h2>The magnetic Chute &amp; detachable Basket for the poop purged from the X1C, P1S, and P1P.Both the Chute and Basket are easily detachable, but they are also securely attached to prevent accidental movement.The use of the Fixture (the light gray part in the photo) is strongly recommended, as it is very effective in preventing the Chute from shifting.Please also check the photos and print profile for additional information.&nbsp;&nbsp;<figure class="image image-style-side"><a href="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000201311/design/2024-06-14_fb8010ae2dc76.jpg?image_process=format,webp" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000201311/design/2024-06-14_fb8010ae2dc76.jpg"></a></figure><figure class="image image-style-side"><a href="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000201311/design/2024-06-14_0c093a9de20f.jpg?image_process=format,webp" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000201311/design/2024-06-14_0c093a9de20f.jpg"></a></figure>──────────<h2>Update</h2><h4>[ June 14, 2024 ]</h4><ol><li>“Fixture2”, which allows stable installation of the Chute without magnets, has been added. (*It can also be used with magnets.)</li><li>As requested, the “Extra-Short” size basket has been added.  </li></ol><h4>[ April 7, 2024 ]</h4>New sizes have been added to the basket model.<ul><li>Short</li><li>Medium (*original size)</li><li>Long</li><li>Wide</li></ul>──────────&nbsp;<h2>Printing Tips</h2>No supports are needed. But, the overhang angles of the Chute and Basket are 30 degrees.If you are using a filament that is NOT good at printing overhangs, please enable support settings yourself.&nbsp;<h2>Compatible Magnet Types (for the Chute)</h2><ul><li>DIA 13mm x T 2.5mm</li><li>DIA 12mm x T 3mm</li><li>DIA 12mm x T 2mm</li><li>DIA 10mm x T 3mm</li><li>DIA 10mm x T 2mm</li><li>DIA 8mm x T 3mm</li><li>DIA 8mm x T 2mm</li><li>DIA 6mm x T 3mm</li><li>DIA 6mm x T 2mm</li><li>No Magnets</li></ul>&nbsp;

[ Jun.14 ] Poop Chute & Basket for X1C/P1S/P1P

LorenzCR

Stencils themed letters and numbers. In addition to the stencils dedicated to animals, I decided to publish stencils on the theme of letters and numbers, to help children learn while having fun. I hope you like them.