larsrocko

geekm0nkey

V for Vendetta “anonymous” mask replica. Not my model, just a colored remix.&nbsp;Oriented on it's top, to print with minimum supports needed.

Guy Fawkes Mask by JTM

masker

DylansLightBoxes

Harley Davidson Logo Light box. Easy to print, one plate for the lid and one plate for the back. Simply add a 1m white led strip and you have a great light box! The hole on the back is designed to fit a 20mm wire grommet (easily found on amazon).

Harley Davidson Logo Light Box

skilt

laisch

Low Profile Spoolholder for sidemounting to the bambulab AMS. With the bowdenconnector it adds just 34mm to the AMS in width. Fits spools from 140 to 200mm diameter. It mounts to the AMS with just clamping force, so there is no need to make any changes to the original hardware. Never unplug the AMS again when printing from an external spool.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/334717/2023-11-12_n6cdbyuzuuve.gif"></figure>&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/334717/2023-11-12_ajymv5zke7nc.gif"></figure>&nbsp;<blockquote>IMPORTANT NOTE: Before you print any part, read the Info part at the end of the build instruction!</blockquote>&nbsp;External Hardware:<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/334717/2023-11-12_gpinzpf1se9r.jpg"></figure><ul><li>4pc - EXT5.55x25.4 tension springs or as an alternative 4pc small hair rubber band</li><li>4pc - M4x20 screw</li><li>5pc - M4x16 screw</li><li>9pc - M4 hex nut</li><li>9pc - M3 bras heat inserts</li><li>1pc - M3x6 screw</li><li>8pc - M3x4 screw</li><li>4pc - 608 rollerscate bearing</li><li>1pc - ptfe tube</li></ul>&nbsp;Print instructions:All parts print without supports!Everything can be printed in PLA, except the rollers should be printed in TPU. If you have no TPU, I added a PLA version for the part also. You can't just print the TPU part in PLA, because its undersized, and pressing the bearing in it would cause it to fail.&nbsp;Build Instructions:Drill holes After printing the Mainholder, you have to drill out the holes fot the rollers with a 4mm drill to later fit the screws. If the M4 screws fit, you can skip this step. The holes are made exactly 4mm to ensure the slicer makes 5 perimeter for strength. <figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/334717/2023-11-12_wmuhfakemqad.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;Heatinserts The M3x4mm brass inserts have to be placed at the sliding mechanism and on the hole where you want the bowdenswivel to sit later. (The parts are designed for 4mm deep inserts, but it's also possible to use 6mm ones like I did because I had too less 4mm ;) )<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/334717/2023-11-12_a60ufmrmawm1.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;Tension Springs:<blockquote>My prefered method is to use the rubber bands, even when the spring solution looks way nicer. But the springs tend to be too strong and overstretching them doesn't make them look nice.</blockquote>For the sliding mechanism you can use either tension springs or rubber bands. When using the springs, make sure that an empty spool will stay in place and don't get pushed out because the spring force is too strong. In case it's too strong you can widen the springs, but if they are too wide, a 140mm spool wont fit anymore.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/334717/2023-11-12_afhhdqdtdght.jpg"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/334717/2023-11-12_mmeizzw31hva.jpg"></figure>Use the M3x4mm screws to screw the springs in place&nbsp;Rubber Bands: Install the rubber bands like the springs. One per slot has enough force to hold the spool.<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/334717/2023-11-12_s1ktst97rhlt.jpg"> Assembling the rollers: Press the bearing into rollerpart 1<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/334717/2023-11-12_lpzxkn799hjr.jpg">Add superglue and slide the two halfes together<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/334717/2023-11-12_8nkfcmbp9t4k.jpg"> <figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/334717/2023-11-12_k17jdkrkcwv3.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;Installing the rollers: Insert the M4 hex nuts into the back of the Mainholder.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/334717/2023-11-12_3bgoc2k932xp.jpg"></figure>Add the Roller and the Spacer and screw them together with the M4x20 screw<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/334717/2023-11-12_vh6j1s4i5g84.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;Installing the PTFE Swivel After printing the swivel, make sure that the two parts can rotate. Press the PTFE tube into the swivel and screw it to the Mainholder<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/334717/2023-11-12_f2aek2jdswpi.jpg"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/334717/2023-11-12_xr3j0fuxpsfh.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;AMS Mounting: Connect the clamps with M4x16mm screws and M4 nuts loose to the Mainholder.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/334717/2023-11-12_n7cubyc4xkmj.jpg"></figure>Slide the whole assembly to your AMS and tighten the screws<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/334717/2023-11-12_1dmqtqzdpmt2.jpg"></figure>When the spoolholder with a full spool installed flexes too much you can also use double sided tape for better adhesion.&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/334717/2023-11-12_vuzqa96gaaqw.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;CONNECTION:For connecting the AMS, the LP-Spoolholder or/and a filament dryer you can use my <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/74010" rel="nofollow noopener">3-Way Bowden Splitte</a>r:&nbsp;<figure class="image"><a href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/74010" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/334717/2023-11-25_580b350a182a5.jpg"></a></figure>&nbsp;AMS RISERIf you want to use the LPSH with an AMS - Riser, I recommend to check out the<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/86200" rel="nofollow noopener"> Mooser Project</a> by <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/2178842856" rel="nofollow noopener">Basti85</a>. It was designed to be fully compatible with the LPSH. His risers has already included the throughholes for the LPSH - Spoolholder. &nbsp;<figure class="image"><a href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/86200" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/334717/2023-12-09_9418658cdf1eb8.jpg"></a></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;IMPORTANT INFO PART<blockquote>TIP: If the rollerslides are jamming from time to time, you can add some lubrication to the slider. I used the same silicon lube wich I use for the lead screws AMS: There seems to be different versions of the AMS. So before you print the clamps, check the rib size of your AMS. If you have 4 Ribs wich are 65mm - 86mm - 65mm appart, you can print the clamps like they are in the print profile. If you have 6 ribs wich are about 45 - 43mm appart you have to just print the "Clamp_small_18mm" at least 3 times Clearance Issue One user encountered too much clearance on his sliders wich leads to too much sagging of the spool. So I added three clearance test prints. The original "Mainholder" part comes with clearance 0.2mm. So print out the three clearance prints first and then decide wich "Mainholder" - version you want to print. For the sliders to work perfektly they must slide with ease (lube if necessary) but should not have too much wobble. Heat Inserts: There are 2 Types of M3 heat inserts. The one I used originally have ~5mm in diameter. If you are using the ones with 4mm outer diameter, there is a file called “holefix _4mm.stl" wich you can load together with the Mainholder.stl into the slicer. Just mark both files, pull them to your slicer and say "yes" when Bambu studio is asking if you want to load it as a single object. For those who want to go anyway with the rubber bands I added a "rubberplug" - part wich can be used instead of the heat inserts. There are also two versions, one for the original 5mm holes and one for the holes with the holefix for 4mm.&nbsp;Tension springs vs. rubber band My prefered method is to use the rubber bands, even when the spring solution looks way nicer. But the springs tend to be too strong and overstretching them doesn't make them look nice. UPDATE 21.11.23: - made the bowdenswivel stronger and added two different sizes 20mm and 30mm&nbsp;Update 31.12.23: - Holefix_4mm.stl for 4mm diameter heat inserts</blockquote>&nbsp;

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