kevin.r.strobel

terrafox

<div><h1>Summary</h1><div>This is a holster for the three part cutlery of decathlon/ quechua. The knife, spoon, and fork can be stacked nicely but nothing keeps them from falling apart in the backpack. I made this holster to keep them together, when not used.The images are all of the tilted version, the other file is a kind of boring variant of the design.<ul><li><a href="https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/set-of-3-hiker-s-camp-plastic-cutlery-items-knife-fork-spoon-blue/_/R-p-171676?" rel="nofollow">Decathlon UK</a></li><li><a href="https://www.decathlon.ca/en/camping-kitchen-and-hydratation/171676-24298-set-of-3-cutlery-knife-fork-spoon-hiker-s-camp-plastic-blue.html" rel="nofollow">Decathlon US</a></li><li><a href="https://www.decathlon.de/p/dreiteiliges-besteckset-messer-gabel-loffel-kunststoff-camping/_/R-p-171676" rel="nofollow">Decathlon Germany</a></li></ul>Feel free to comment if you have questions.</div><h1>Print Settings</h1>Printer Brand: <div>Prusa</div> <pre><code> Printer: <div>I3 MK3S</div></code></pre> Rafts: <div>No</div> <pre><code> Supports: <div>No</div></code></pre> Resolution: <div>0.2</div> <pre><code> Infill: <div>Doesn't matter</div></code></pre> Notes: <div>The design is optimized for a 0.4mm nozzle</div></div>

Decathlon Quechua camping cutlery holster - Besteckhalfter

Outdoor

geode.rc

<h2>Summary</h2>3D Printed &#34;Carbon Bug&#34; DLG with Carbon Nylon PA-CF filament. All DLG parts are printed with PA-CF for best strength/weight ratio and high temperature resistance. This release also comes with newly designed skeleton tail feathers, integrated fuselage/wing root and re-fined wing jig, etc.&nbsp;Revision History:Rev 1.0 (4/27/2024) Original releaseCarbon Bug is intended for experienced builders/pilots with extensive knowledge in building DLG gliders. Although not required, builder is recommended to have experience with Bambu Studio slicer and modifier.&nbsp;RCGroups Thread: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?4489525-Another-Bug-DLG-3D-Printed-Version" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?4489525-Another-Bug-DLG-3D-Printed-Version</a>&nbsp;Lightnin’ Bug Plan: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=30832050" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=30832050</a>Related Videos:(1) BUG 3DP Overview: <a target="_blank" href="https://youtu.be/MfsZifHM2jI" rel="nofollow noopener">https://youtu.be/MfsZifHM2jI</a> (2) BUG 3DP Build Log: <a target="_blank" href="https://youtu.be/UxRinoQI4BE" rel="nofollow noopener">https://youtu.be/UxRinoQI4BE</a> (3) BUG 3DP Flight Report: <a target="_blank" href="https://youtu.be/waddDkHVwfY" rel="nofollow noopener">https://youtu.be/waddDkHVwfY</a> (4) &#34;CARBON BUG&#34; Build Log / Manual: <a target="_blank" href="https://youtu.be/HaM_Sx3enYA" rel="nofollow noopener">https://youtu.be/HaM_Sx3enYA</a><h2>Print Settings</h2>Printer Brand: Bambulabs Printer: Bambu X1C&nbsp; Notes: This release is for Bambu Studio / Orca slicers. Please see build log / manual video and 3mf files for details.&nbsp;

"CARBON BUG" - ALL CARBON, 3D PRINTED DLG

Toys

LMC DESIGN

Heavy duty print in place 180 degree cabinet hinge

180 degree cabinet hinge print in place 

Furniture

DGVeLab

Clip for 20mm buckles. Designed to be durable even with PLA. Designed to replace Vatos Laser Tag clips.

Buckle clip

bags

pat.vdleer

RGB LED ring based christmas tree based on the SK6812. <h4>Rings</h4>Each ring has 4 connectors, data in, data out, GND and 5V. The first/bottom ring data in is connected to the GPIO of the ESP32 (via the 74AHCT125). The data out is connected to the next ring on data in. &nbsp;<h4>74AHCT125N</h4>Used to connect the 3.3V of the ESP32 side to the 5V data side of the LED rings. <a href="https://www.tinytronics.nl/shop/index.php?route=product/product/get_file&file=3161/SN74AHCT125.pdf" rel="nofollow">datasheet</a> <h4>Diagram</h4>See <a href="https://wled.discourse.group/t/esp32-sn74ahct125n-wiring-max-length-data-cable-to-sk6812/2294" rel="nofollow">https://wled.discourse.group/t/esp32-sn74ahct125n-wiring-max-length-data-cable-to-sk6812/2294</a> but I used a 470 ohm resistor as shown <a href="https://wled.discourse.group/t/esp32-sn74ahct125n-wiring-max-length-data-cable-to-sk6812/2294/5" rel="nofollow">here</a>.<h4> Mechanical parts</h4><ul><li>M3x12</li><li>M3 threaded inserts</li></ul><h4> Electrical parts</h4><ul><li><a href="https://www.tinytronics.nl/shop/en/lighting/rings-and-modules/sk6812-digital-5050-rgb-led-ring-93-leds-black" rel="nofollow">SK6812 Digital 5050 RGB LED Ring - 93 LEDs - Black</a></li><li>Wemos C3 Mini - ESP32-C3 - <a href="https://www.tinytronics.nl/shop/en/wemos-c3-mini-esp32-c3" rel="nofollow">v1.0.0</a> (discontinued, use <a href="https://www.tinytronics.nl/shop/en/development-boards/microcontroller-boards/with-wi-fi/wemos-c3-mini-esp32-c3-v2.1.0" rel="nofollow">v2.1.0</a>)</li><li><a href="https://www.tinytronics.nl/shop/en/components/ics-and-microcontroller-chips/ics/sn74ahct125n-4-channel-level-converter-3.3v-to-5v-14-pin-dip" rel="nofollow">SN74AHCT125N</a> 4-channel Level Converter - 3.3V to 5V - 14-pin DIP</li><li><a href="https://www.tinytronics.nl/shop/en/power/power-supplies/5v/mean-well-power-supply-5v-3a-switching-power-supply-rs-15-5" rel="nofollow">Mean Well Power Supply - 5V 3A - Switching Power Supply - RS-15-5</a></li><li>IEC C14 connector with fuse (same as your PSU on the PC) (no clue where I bought it, looks like <a href="https://www.tinytronics.nl/shop/en/cables-and-connectors/connectors/others/c14-chassis-connector-with-fuse-holder" rel="nofollow">this one</a> but with on/off switch)</li></ul>

LED Christmas tree / xmas tree

esp32

bitflung

Original model shared under GNU Public License v3.0 (I picked the closest equivalent here)&nbsp;This is a small device to prevent dust/etc from collecting in your USB-C devices.&nbsp;If, like me, you have a phone with USB-C and keep it in your pocket or bag AND your clothes/bag are mode from checks notes fabric… then it's very likely that your USB-C port has been filling up with lint and related debris. There are many posts online about how this lint buildup can prevent you from charging your device over time, and of course loads of products and printable things for getting that lint out of the USB-C port after it has built up… THIS thing here is to prevent the lint from building up in the first place.&nbsp;I printed mine in TPEE (similar to TPU, it's a flexible filament). I suspect PLA would work just fine, but i'm all out of ‘normal’ filaments over here (I blame my P1P, it prints way too fast so instead of waiting for prints to finish i've spent more time starting the ‘next’ print over and over… fun times!). &nbsp;I printed this in under 9 minutes. It fits great!! My first attempt used 'classic' walls' and didn't fit nearly so well… so if you download the raw STL and slice it yourself be sure to use Arachne Walls as the result is a significantly better fit.

USB type C port cover

Smartphone

MaroDavide

A little help for when soldering with tin. This is a stand for your tin roll. Maximum coil size: 54mm - External diameter20mm - Internal diameter18mm - ThicknessThe file isn't perfect, but it still works (let me know what you think)&nbsp;If you want to support me: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.paypal.com/paypalme/MaroDavide" rel="nofollow noopener">Thanks</a>

Soldering stand

soldering

Cheems Moon

The Best Pin Challenge ver.FU-1

3DJupp

I created a simple, yet effective version of a case for the Raspberry Pi 5. Source for the OpenSCAD File: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6248315" rel="nofollow noopener">Raspberry Pi 5 (and 4B) case v2 by scottneumann - Thingiverse</a>

π5 / Raspberry 4 and 5 case - customizable

Cases

Theodor

Turtle cookie cutter

Kitchen

Adam L

Change log:<ul><li>Added a PA-tuned profile for Bambu's PETG-CF (4/19/23). I usually use the Bambu presets.. but I was/am struggling with this filament. I do not recommend it. </li><li>Added Overture Army Green PETG (4/20/23)</li><li>Added California Filaments Matte Black PETG (5/2/23)</li><li>Added California Filaments Golden Yellow PETG (5/2/23)</li><li>Added California Filaments Glow (clear) PETG (5/2/23)</li><li>Added Prusament Matte Black PETG (5/6/23)</li><li>Retuned Prusament Galaxy Black PETG (5/19/23) - *updated settings.</li><li>Retuned California Filaments Teal, Fluorescent Orange, & Cloudy White colors (5/28/23) - *updated PA Values, improves edge cases & wall strength.</li><li>Added Prusament Ocean Blue PETG (5/29/23)</li><li>Added Prusament Carmine Red PETG (6/4/23)</li><li>Updated/Retuned Prusament Matte Black PETG & California Filaments Clear PETG (6/5/23)</li><li>Updated/Retuned California Filaments Yellow PETG (6/11/23)</li><li>Updated/Retuned AMOLEN Rainbow PETG (7/1/23)</li><li>Added Prusament Chalky Blue PETG (7/19/23)</li><li>Fixed a mistake in Prusament Carmine Red PETG min layer time (7/20/23)</li><li>Added Prusament Yellow Gold PETG (7/20/23) - this filament tunes fine, but man is it an ugly color. Do not recommend unless you want the color of bile. They should've called this “diseased yellow”.</li><li>Added Prusament Transparent Orange PETG (7/28/23) </li></ul><h4> </h4><h4>What this is:</h4>This is a collection of all of my PETG filament profiles for all filaments I've used of this type. I happen to have a decent amount of <a href="http://referrals.californiafilament.com/rV8091rv?smile_ref=eyJzbWlsZV9zb3VyY2UiOiJzbWlsZV91aSIsInNtaWxlX21lZGl1bSI6IiIsInNtaWxlX2NhbXBhaWduIjoicmVmZXJyYWxfcHJvZ3JhbSIsInNtaWxlX2N1c3RvbWVyX2lkIjoxNTg0NzYyODA5fQ%3D%3D" rel="nofollow">California Filaments</a> because I've found that brand works well with this printer, and you can push the flow rates higher with it than some others. I will update it as I tune new filament brands and colors. They are generally tuned for flow rate, pressure advance, and temperature and volumetric flow limits and overrides. They're a good working starting point for anyone struggling with a filament. I've also tuned other types of filaments (see <a href="https://www.printables.com/@AdamL/models" rel="nofollow">my models here</a>) and you should find, by category:<ul><li><a href="https://www.printables.com/model/457260-tpuflexible-tuned-x1c-print-profiles-for-bambuorca" rel="nofollow">TPU / Flexibles</a></li><li><a href="https://www.printables.com/model/457284-panylon-tuned-x1c-print-profiles-for-bambuorca-sli" rel="nofollow">Nylon/PA and PACF variants</a></li><li><a href="https://www.printables.com/model/457321-pc-tuned-x1c-print-profiles-for-bambuorca-slicer" rel="nofollow">Polycarbonate & Polycarbonate-CF</a></li><li><a href="https://www.printables.com/model/457248-pla-tuned-x1c-print-profiles-for-bambuorca-slicer" rel="nofollow">PLA / PLA + / Silk PLA</a></li><li><a href="https://www.printables.com/model/457271-absasa-tuned-x1c-print-profiles-for-bambuorca-slic" rel="nofollow">ABS / ASA</a></li></ul>CHT-Nozzle versions also available (0.4 mm , Brass)<ul><li><a href="https://www.printables.com/model/539704-chtnozzlepetg-tuned-x1c-print-profiles-for-bambuor" rel="nofollow">PETG</a></li><li><a href="https://www.printables.com/model/540552-chtnozzlepla-tuned-x1c-print-profiles-for-bambuorc" rel="nofollow">PLA</a></li><li><a href="https://www.printables.com/model/542033-chtnozzletpu-tuned-x1c-print-profiles-for-bambuorc" rel="nofollow">TPU</a></li><li><a href="https://www.printables.com/model/542058-chtnozzle-asaabs-tuned-x1c-print-profiles-for-bamb" rel="nofollow">ABS/ASA</a></li></ul><h4> </h4><h4>How to use:</h4> These 3MF files are designed for use in Orcaslicer/Bambuslicer, but will work best in Orcaslicer, because it supports using a fixed pressure-advance value in the slicer. <ul><li>Load the 3MF file for the filament of your choosing. Files are named as <Brand>__.3mf.</li><li>(optional, recommended): Save the filament and/or print presets for your own use to your user presets for future use.</li><li>Remove the calibration cube dummy object and put your desired object in.</li><li>Print! But, turn off flow calibration option in your prints! The more reliable PA value stored in the filament profile will be used instead, and you can skip the wasted startup time, too!<ul><li><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/455802/rich_content/dcbf8f87-13d5-4362-a0f5-c9b1a895b70a/image.png#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%22ff02b71c-6cd6-4ebc-b38a-446080d43e9e%22%2C%22w%22%3A440%2C%22h%22%3A110%7D"> </li></ul></li><li>If you want to use these in Bambu slicer, you won't get the PA values applied automatically sadly, and you'll have to do that with a <a href="https://forum.bambulab.com/t/flow-calibration/892/15" rel="nofollow">manual GCODE in the filament's start GCODE</a>. This is really annoying to do for each filament, but it does work. However I suggest you try Orcaslicer for this reason.</li></ul>&nbsp;<h4>Important notes:</h4><ul><li>These profiles are tuned on an X1C, with a hardened steel 0.4 nozzle installed, for use with a range of layer heights. If you have a different nozzle size or nozzle kind (steel/brass), these will be only starting points and you should re-tune most of the variables except maybe temperature.</li><li>Each 3MF also contains some of my own optimized settings for 0.16 mm prints, which I typically use, but these tuned filament profiles are designed/tuned to work across a variety of different print profiles.</li></ul><h4>Background:</h4>I use the <a href="https://github.com/SoftFever/OrcaSlicer" rel="nofollow">Orca Slicer </a>variant of Bambu's slicer because it offers finer-grained control over the slicing process and makes tuning and using tuned filament profiles much easier than Bambu's official slicer, which lacks good calibration routines for some of the most important variables in good printing: flow rate, pressure advance, and temperature and volumetric flow limits. This is particularly true for Bambu's Pressure Advance (<a href="https://github.com/bambulab/BambuStudio/issues/348" rel="nofollow">they incorrectly call this “flow”</a>) calibration, which forces you to run it every time and is unreliable, particularly on the popular textured PEI surface.Each of these profiles has been tuned for:&nbsp;<ul><li>Flow rate (aka extrusion multiplier)</li><li>Pressure advance (aka linear advance)</li><li>Temperature (with temp towers)</li><li>Volumetric flow limits (my settings are a little conservative based on printing the max volumetric flow rate calibration inside Orcaslicer)</li><li>Overrides (I typically try to avoid using these unless I have to)</li></ul>&nbsp;Disclaimer: These are free to use, and I do not own the OrcaSlicer calibration cube model, i'm just using it here as a convenient way to distribute the profiles.Disclaimer: The CA filaments link in the description here is a 25% off-first-order coupon link, but I'm not affiliated with CA filaments in any way, and they did not ask me to make this post.

- PETG - Tuned X1C Print Profiles for Bambu/Orca-Slicer

Tests

Jordan Proctor Designs

<h3>(2.0) Update: New versions to counteract the “benchy hull line”</h3><ul><li>If you&#39;re not sure what I mean by “benchy hull line”, <a target="_blank" href="https://help.prusa3d.com/article/the-benchy-hull-line_124745" rel="nofollow noopener">read this article. </a></li><li>I have rounded out the bottom interior of the planter to counteract the slight layer shift our indentation that occurs on the exterior wall as the printer completes the top layers of the bottom interior of the planter.</li><li>I have also adjusted my suggested print settings to reflect my current preferences.</li></ul><h2>Mid-Century Modern Planter</h2>This mid-century modern planter is the perfect size for small to medium sized succulents, cacti, or other houseplants. The unique design balances form with function, including drainage holes and an optional, custom-fitted drip tray.I have posted files for four sizes, small through XL. The pictured planter is the &#34;XL&#34; size.&nbsp;Small: 3&#34; height, 3&#34; opening Medium: 4&#34; height, 4&#34; opening Large: 5&#34; height, 5&#34; opening  XL: 6&#34; height, 6.5&#34; openingPrint Settings I Used:<ul><li>0.2mm layer height</li><li>10% infill</li><li>3 walls</li></ul>If you like this design, consider leaving a tip! I&#39;m a university student that designs planters on the side, so anything helps!<a target="_blank" href="https://www.paypal.me/theprintedplanter" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.paypal.me/theprintedplanter</a>

Mid-Century Modern Planter Pot, with Drainage Tray

Plants

RobDrivesCars

It's just a tray™ … or is it?Well, it is, but it's a small tray for small parts. Specifically, I designed these for screws when I'm working on fulfilling orders that require I sort specific length screws and count the quantity, but this could be useful for anyone doing any sort of small electronic disassembly!This is StackBox v2. It has several big upgrades over v1:<ul><li>No supports needed, ever.<ul><li>The bottom of the tray has flared. This allows for the ez-stack system do its job using simple bridging</li></ul></li><li>The spout has been redesigned<ul><li>It's now on an angle, meaning screws are less likely to spill out</li><li>The </li></ul></li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:63.34%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/user/171771437/draft/2023-09-19_5lqjwej5c6id.gif"></figure>The base of the tray has a divided interior which allows you to sort two or more different types of items (like two sizes of screws) on either side. I also added ridges to catch small features like the lip of the screw head so it makes for easy sorting/counting.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:39.77%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/user/171771437/draft/2023-09-19_xrseczvlcuch.jpg"></figure>I also added a small funnel at the corner of the tray. This “spout” will just fit into a 2x3-inch (50x75mm-ish) bag in case you need to store those sorted items for whatever reason. There is a small lip right before the spout to prevent loose screws from just falling out of the spout.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:39.3%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/user/171771437/draft/2023-09-19_da87h1awsd5l.jpg"></figure>On, and did I mention they can stack? Because they can. It's kind of the whole point and it makes storing multiple kinds of screws or small parts for a single project super simple.There's also a small friction-fit lid in case you want to keep those parts free from the eyes of wandering cats.This print has been simplified to just three files:<ol><li>Small Tray: 10mm high walls</li><li>Medium Tray: 25mm high walls</li><li>Lid: It's a lid, kind of! There is no securing other than friction-fit (which depends on your printer tolerances). This is more to prevent bumps and spills.</li></ol>----The original v1 of this model (which is retired and will no longer be updated) <a href="https://www.printables.com/model/493058/" rel="nofollow">can be found here</a>.

Stackbox - The Stackable Small Parts Sorting Tray (v2)

Sorting

ralf.hoerhager

<a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/de/model/418290-sanding-wedge-v2" rel="nofollow noopener">Printables Link</a>&nbsp;General informationAs you might have guessed from the title, this is the 2nd version of my sanding wedge. I made the models in Autodesk Inventor. &nbsp;The new design is Fully 3d printed, no bolts or nuts needed.&nbsp;Technical detailsThis sanding wedge is made for 50mm wide sandpaper. The sandpaper must be at least 310mm long for the original version and 225mm for the small version.I recommend you buy a roll of Sandpaper that already has the desired width and then cut it to length.&nbsp;Here are some I found on Amazon: <ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.eu/d/5q3raSU" rel="nofollow noopener">Bosch DIY Sanding Roll for Metal 50mm 5m 120 Grit </a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.eu/d/gXm8hH8" rel="nofollow noopener">Klingspor 4224 - KL 361 JF Sanding Rolls with Fabric Backing, Brown, 50 x 25000, Packaging Unit 1 - Grain 180</a> </li></ul>&nbsp;Update 11.10.2023 : I added a brim and spread it over more plates to reduce printing errors. Also made the hole in the "wedge" bigger because it was too tight.