Karl Delandsheere

dziobasty

Adjustable phone holder for dualsense. Fits phones and tablets with a width ranging from 73mm to 107mm If your phone is 73 to 84mm wide, please choose the MAX screw Screw for base print 2psc. You can use AMS to fill the PS logo with a different color.  There is a version adapted to iPhone 12, 12 pro, 12 pro max,13, 13 pro, 13 pro max, 14, 14 pro, 14 pro max, 15, 15 pro, 15 pro max, and there is also a second design that should fit most other phones. If there are any problems, please let me know and I will improve the model. Unfortunately, I don't have an Android phone to check it.&nbsp;Layer height: 0.2mm Wall lops: 3 Infill: 45% PLAYOU MUST USE A SUPPORTS!&nbsp;The screw with the letter R has a left-hand thread and must be screwed in on the right side

Dualsense adjustable phone holder PS5 Remote play 

Gaming

BamBam Design

<h4>Threading Tool Handle</h4>A handy tool for cut and recut threads.It should fit square shaft from M2-M10 thread cutter (most inch thread as well).The square shank holders are graduated 0.5mm in one single tool.Insert 2,5-4,5mm square shaft in one side and 5-7mm in the other side.&nbsp;The knurled handle is enough to cut threads into printed parts and also recut metal.If you need more grip you can insert 8mm Screws into the side holes as a lever.&nbsp;Happy Printing😃 and don't forget to leave a like👍 and subscribe✔. It's free😉&nbsp;Update V1.1:<ul><li>Added 2,5mm square shaft hole</li></ul>&nbsp;Disclaimer:This work by BamBam Design is licensed under Standard Digital File LicenseStrict non-commercial, personal use only license.You are not allowed to Remix or Copy this model to other 3D printing websites without my permission.&nbsp;Commercial license you can get here:<a target="_blank" href="https://www.patreon.com/BamBamDesign/membership" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.patreon.com/BamBamDesign/membership</a>

Threading Tool - Wind Wrench

Tools

mystoopidstuff

<h2>UPDATE 4/6/2024:  There is an updated Version 2.1 of this model, which uses filament hinges.  I recommend trying the filament hinge model over this version, since it is much easier to assemble.  You can find the updated version at the link below:</h2><h2><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/416342" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/416342</a></h2>&nbsp;&nbsp;This is a remix of Scheff&#39;s <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/374789-gridfinity-collection-solid-bins-for-customization" rel="nofollow noopener">Gridfinity Collection Solid Bins for Customization (STEP Files)</a>, which was used as a blank canvas to design this 1x1 (6U high) bin with a lid. Big thanks to <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@scheff" rel="nofollow noopener">Scheff </a>for posting the STEP file models, which are a huge help for designers! Also big thanks to <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@Ch3vr0n_247401" rel="nofollow noopener">Ch3vr0n</a> for requesting this design, and the feedback, which helped to improve it!&nbsp;This bin is designed to work with the <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/159840" rel="nofollow noopener">Gridfinity Box For Stuff V2.0</a>, and is 6U high with a 1x1U footprint, but it will also work with other cases which have a 6U bin height. The covers are intended to prevent the migration of tiny parts between the bins, when used in a case.<h4>Safety and Assembly info:</h4>&nbsp;<h4>Please protect your eyeballs and wear some safety glasses when assembling the door hinges.  Clipping the paperclip wires with the side cutters can send the cut ends of the wires flying.  If you make or assemble these, it is at your own risk.</h4><h4> </h4><h3> If you cannot get the wire installed, STOP and investigate the print, since it should not take a great amount of force to install the wires, and you may have an issue with the print which is blocking the holes for the wire hinge. </h3><h3> </h3><h3>Do not push too hard on the wire when installing the wire hinges, and always press against a solid surface (not your hand).</h3>&nbsp;To assemble the doors, I used a couple medium paperclips (mine had a wire diameter of about 0.85mm and 1.05mm).  I first straightened them so they can be used as hinge pins for the doors.  I was also able to use 1.05mm diameter paperclips, however great care must be taken with the larger paperclip wires, since they require more force to insert (I used a pliers to install the larger wires).  To avoid a nasty poke if the hinge wire were to  burst through the other side of the bin if using too much force, do NOT press the hinge wires in place if your hand or other body part is on the other side.  The hinge wires do not go all the way through, there is about 1mm of plastic which stops the wire from going through, but if you press too hard it could bust through that 1mm wall and pop out the other side - and you don&#39;t want your hand in the way of that wire if it were to pop through during installation. &nbsp;There are two versions of the model included. One uses a large paperclip wire as the hinge, and the other uses a 1.75mm filament as the hinge. If you use the filament hinge, I suggest using a filament for the hinge pin that does not get brittle easily (like PETG).To assemble the doors, use a large paperclip or filament (my paperclips have a wire diameter of about 1.05mm), and straighten it so it can be used as hinge pins for the door. To install the door, the paperclip wire or filament is inserted from one end, and then pass it through the door until it stops (the wire will only go about 40mm). Then cut the wire or filament flush with some diagonal flush cutters (which come with most 3D printers). I used pliers to insert the wires, since they are a snug fit with the holes. Note that the wire or filament will not go all the way though the bin it has a stop on one end. I recommend using a drop of superglue to hold the filament hinge in place. Be careful to not use too much force when installing the paperclip wire so that you don&#39;t poke yourself with it.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50.85%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/822381/2024-02-17_g93vzotog7j9.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;If you intend to print the doors in one color, you can use the following files:If you are using a paperclip wire hinge:<ol><li>1x1x6u_covered_V4C_LID_w_TAB.STL</li></ol>Or if you are going to use a filament hinge:<ol><li>1x1x6u_covered_V4G_Filament_Hinge_LID_w_TAB.STL</li></ol>&nbsp;If you want to print the tabs in a different color, then use the files listed below (load both together into the slicer together so they maintain their orientation). The tabs use an integrated hinge, so they need to print with the door (so load them into the slicer together). This way they are split into two models (tab and door) for multicolor printing (which makes coloring much simpler in the slicer).Load these models together if you are using a paperclip wire hinge:<ol><li>1x1x6u_covered_V4C_LID.STL</li><li>1x1x6u_covered_V4C_TAB.STL</li></ol>Or if you are going to use a filament hinge:<ol><li>1x1x6u_covered_V4G_Filament_Hinge_LID.STL</li><li>1x1x6u_covered_V4G_Filament_Hinge_TAB.STL</li></ol>In Orcaslicer (others should be similar), you can load two or more objects together by dropping them together on the build plate and answering “yes” when it askes if you want to load the files as a single object. Doing this will maintain the orientation of the door and tabs which is required for them to print correctly.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:67.39%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/822381/2024-02-17_7elkxv0tyl6h.jpg"></figure>The doors on the bins have room for a 9mm to 12mm wide Brother P-Touch Label (or smaller).The STEP file is included, which has all the models used in this design.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;I also included a folder named “1x1x6U Covered Bin - Filament Hinge Pin - Alternative 180 deg Tab” which rotates the tab by 180° so it will open in the same direction as the doors. I consider this change experimental, and am not sure it offers any benefit, so I am looking for feedback on this different tab design. If you have tried printing both versions of the lids, and feel one is better, please post in the comments and let me know.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Other stuff:If you need some bins for small parts, the following bins with covers are a good option to use with the Box For Stuff <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/710154-gridfinity-box-for-stuff-bfs-20-bin-version-20" rel="nofollow noopener">20 bin </a>and <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/719788-gridfinity-25-bin-box-for-stuff-version-20-unteste" rel="nofollow noopener">25 bin </a>cases (or other 6U tall cases):<ol><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/237116#profileId-253187" rel="nofollow noopener">1 compartment 2x1 (6U) bin with a magnet pickup tool</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/416342" rel="nofollow noopener">1x1, 1x2 (3 Compartment) and 1x4 (6Compartment) bins with lids (6U) - version 2.1</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/405008" rel="nofollow noopener">1x2, 1x3, 1x4 (6U and 12U) Lidded Bin for Stuff with Latch Version 2.0</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/405004" rel="nofollow noopener">2x2, 2x3, 2x4 (6U and 12U) Lidded Bin for Stuff with Latch Version 2.0</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/405013" rel="nofollow noopener">3x3, 3x4 (6U and 12U) Lidded Bin for Stuff with Latch Version 2.0</a></li></ol>If you want to check out my other Gridfinity cases, you can find them at the links below:<ol><li>Gridfinity Box For Stuff <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/159840#profileId-266789" rel="nofollow noopener">20 bin (6U)</a></li><li>Gridfinity Box For Stuff <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/719788-gridfinity-25-bin-box-for-stuff-version-20-unteste" rel="nofollow noopener">25 bin (6U)</a> (max size for a Bambu X1C/P1S)</li><li>Gridfinity Box For Stuff <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/386034#profileId-286398" rel="nofollow noopener">16 bin (6U)</a> (Ender 3 size)</li><li>Gridfinity Box For Stuff <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/386041#profileId-286401" rel="nofollow noopener">16 bin - 12U deep version</a> (Ender 3 size)</li><li>Gridfinity Box For Stuff <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/389651" rel="nofollow noopener">2 bin (6U)</a> (small test version)</li></ol>If you want to store some small hardware and need some good labeled bins, <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@Ch3vr0n_247401" rel="nofollow noopener">Ch3vr0n</a> posted some segmented bins for the Gridfinity system here:&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/732655-gridfinity-boxes-for-gridfinity-box-for-stuff-20-b" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.printables.com/model/732655-gridfinity-boxes-for-gridfinity-box-for-stuff-20-b</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;If you find these models useful, please post a like or a comment with some pics of your prints.You can find the other things I&#39;m working on at my blog <a target="_blank" href="https://www.mystoopidstuff.com/blog" rel="nofollow noopener">here</a>. You can also follow me<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/2561228817" rel="nofollow noopener"> here </a>or on Printables, to see what new stuff I post. If you would like to support my work, you can Buy Me A Coffee using this link:<a target="_blank" href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/mystoopidstuff" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.buymeacoffee.com/mystoopidstuff</a>Thanks for looking!

Gridfinity Bin 1x1 single compartment bin lid v1.0

Gridfinity

fmarx1

Cutting guard that fits on a Dremel 3000 and possibly other models. It screws onto the base of the Dremel and fits securely. It was made with the Dremel SC544 38mm woodcutting disc in mind. Diameter of the disc area is 56mm.&nbsp;No supports needed if you print upright with the screw part on the bed. You might need a brim if, but for me it worked without one. This should probably be printed with PETG or ABS for increased temperature resistance.

Dremel Cutting Guard

Dremel

mocodroid

Tool organizer for Cricut Maker<h3>Print instructions</h3>Tool organizer for Cricut Maker. Store your cutting tips inside your Cricut Maker. Printed in silk pink PLA. There is also a split version of the model for printers with smaller beds. No support material needed. I printed the model upside down, no support material, default settings for Prusament PLA with .6 nozzle and .3 layers had no issues with bridges.

Cricut Maker Tool Holder

Cricut

Lukas Pomykal

Simple shelf bracket 40x40 mm size 6mm walls 4mm holes

Simple shelf bracket 40x40 mm

Parts

Vegatype

This is a remix of The Standard 4x5 from Standard Cameras (<a target="_blank" href="https://standardcameras.com/" rel="nofollow noopener">https://standardcameras.com</a>) and has been shared with permission from the owner Drew Nikonowicz (<a target="_blank" href="https://nikonowicz.com/" rel="nofollow noopener">https://nikonowicz.com</a>). The bellows and ground glass needed for the camera can be purchased directly from them!&nbsp;I was building the Standard 4x5 when ideas on how to improve the desing started to flow. My goals were to add features, simplify assembly and use more widely avaliable materials. I called this redesign Vega 4x5, in honor of the first star ever photographed. The project file is open and avaliable in .f3d format as i want to make it easy for everyone to modify and customize anything about the camera, i look forward to the community contributions, let's keep film photography alive!<h3> </h3><h3> Modifications List:</h3>&nbsp; • Geometry was mostly simplified as i liked a cleaner look. • 21 metric screws instead of 66 imperial screws of 9 different lenghts/types. • Printed part count was reduced from 24 down to 14. • Better tolerances for the metric rail less play and smoother operation of the sliders. • All files are in the best orientation for printing no need for supports. • Tripod mounting via heat-set insert instead of a tee-nut which seems impossible to find here in europe. • Bigger knobs with a new pattern i found it difficult to tighten the old ones and to keep the files at a minimum i used the same size of knob for all of the camera. • New printed forks allow for more movements: the rear standard now also has rise, fall and tilt, the last of which was impossible to get with a double fork arrangment due to the obstruction of the darkslide (when in landscape orientation). • Forks simply click in the zero position thanks to recesses in the tracks, instead of having to rely on visual marks. • Front standard is now printed in one piece for an easier assembly • New film holder clips allow for changing film orientation (portrait/landscape) while the rear standard is tilted • Simpler mounting of the standards via 2 bolts. • Easier bellows swapping done by loosening 4 screws at the top of the standards. • Rear standard overhang is now 55 degrees as it was difficult printing the original part without sagging. • Spirit levels on both standards for more precise adjustments.&nbsp;<h3> Parts list:</h3>&nbsp;<h4> Fasteners:</h4> • 14x M3X10mm Button Head Screw • 4x M6X30mm Hex Bolt • 3x M6x50mm Hex Bolt • 7x M6 Hex Nut • 1x 20x1/4” heat-set insert <h4> Miscellaneous:</h4> • 1x 25x25x300mm Aluminum Extrusion • 1x 127x102mm Ground Glass • Bellows (specifications found here: <a target="_blank" href="http://manual.standardcameras.com/0_e/" rel="nofollow noopener">http://manual.standardcameras.com/0_e/</a> ) • Large Format Lens • Linhof Lensboard (STLs provided) • 2x 10x10x29mm Spirit Level • About 20cm of 1.5-3mm Elastic Cord • 2x 25x25mm Endcaps The bellows and ground glass can be made, but i highly suggest buying them from the folks over at Standard Cameras, as they are a drop in replacement and it's not easy to source all of the required materials, here's their shop: <a target="_blank" href="https://standardcameras.com/collections/all." rel="nofollow noopener">https://standardcameras.com/collections/all.</a> Other sources are for example ebay or <a target="_blank" href="http://www.custombellows.co.uk/" rel="nofollow noopener">http://www.custombellows.co.uk/.</a> It's also possible to 3d print bellows with 95A tpu, either in one piece with a 400mm Z axis printer (Stl and bellows generator are in the files section) or in two parts, see Kiwi Tinkerer design: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/250318-camera-bellows-in-two-parts-with-modified-vega-fra" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.printables.com/model/250318-camera-bellows-in-two-parts-with-modified-vega-fra</a><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:357px;"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/2310b633-191a-4c91-ac35-a7fabad85bb5/ezgif-2-253f68dc4a.gif"></figure><blockquote>Note: 3D printed bellows made lightproof with 5 coats of matte black plastidip</blockquote><h3> </h3><h3> Printing:</h3>All the models are provided in the best orientation for printing, no supports needed. The following parts need to be printed in black: Front Standard, Rear Standard, Film Holder. Here are the suggested slicer settings:&nbsp; • PLA is fine, but PETG or ASA are better for outdoor use • 0.2 Layer Height • 3 perimeters • 30% Cubic Infill • 5 Top and Bottom Layers • Supports turned off&nbsp;With these settings the material cost for the whole camera is about 780g, at standard speed the print time is about 68 hours, no more and no less than the original files. Printing files are provided for the different materials, all settings already adjusted, divided in three batches.&nbsp;<h3> Assembly: </h3><h4> Rail:</h4><figure class="image image_resized image-style-align-center" style="width:714px;"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/ee340fb9-4f52-4dc2-ad34-435104937d61/thumbs/cover/800x533/png/1.webp"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/6a290875-1dd7-41cd-8242-afcbca490c30/thumbs/cover/800x533/png/2.webp"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/0f5c0fb0-6d5a-4473-afdf-e92404e18ec8/thumbs/cover/800x533/png/3.webp"></figure><blockquote>Note: To use the heat-set insert even a cheap soldering iron will work just fine. </blockquote><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/59ce787d-15ce-40ce-b958-5aa30003d5cd/thumbs/cover/800x533/png/4.webp"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/db002353-d30d-4666-ba8a-7bde4689dde8/thumbs/cover/800x533/png/5.webp"></figure><blockquote>Note: Insert the M6X30mm bolts before the M6X50mm (Sliders).</blockquote><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/9b0fe580-f630-406e-a442-60463a4fdf96/thumbs/cover/800x533/png/6.webp"></figure><blockquote>Note: Make sure that the M6x30mm bolts sit flush and don't tighten the knobs yet.</blockquote><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/ed6d0b80-5c4b-4637-abd1-715ae633444d/thumbs/cover/800x533/png/7.webp"></figure><blockquote>Note: Once you slide the parts on the rail, you can tighten the knobs to lock them in place. All knobs should face the right side of the rail. </blockquote><h4> </h4><h4> </h4><h4> Forks:</h4><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/2e0fa5b0-7245-499a-8e41-16db143f2884/thumbs/cover/800x533/png/8.webp"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/80efded8-6533-4e06-b487-b68ee3e3243f/thumbs/cover/800x533/png/9.webp"></figure>&nbsp;<h4> </h4><h4> Front Standard:</h4><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/a62db279-b7f9-4472-a2b2-76e8be954a25/thumbs/cover/800x533/png/10.webp"></figure><blockquote>Note: I didn't have the levels on hand, so you won't see them in the other pictures. To mount them you just have to glue them in the slots at the top of the standards.</blockquote><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/3348eb01-a888-47b7-b742-71f063002874/thumbs/cover/800x533/png/11.webp"></figure><blockquote>Note: Don't overtighten the graflock clip, it should feel solid but still be able to slide.</blockquote>&nbsp;&nbsp;<h4> Rear Standard:</h4><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/08be9ee5-7603-46c5-9523-bb134cf34427/thumbs/cover/800x533/png/12.webp"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/2dde62c0-d220-4609-8db7-2044d8086e34/thumbs/cover/800x533/png/13.webp"></figure><blockquote>Note: Don't overtighten the top clips, they should feel solid but still be able to slide.</blockquote><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/bf0f63ed-21f0-49a6-86c5-35e0ed76044f/thumbs/cover/800x533/png/14.webp"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/ab61e233-3661-4c92-bb9e-b6df45e6cb36/thumbs/cover/800x533/png/15.webp"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/304fd392-788b-4af8-90a5-8cd68c675f5a/thumbs/cover/800x533/png/16.webp"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/01a09b78-7ba5-47e8-8150-749e495bd15e/thumbs/cover/800x533/png/17.webp"></figure><blockquote>Note: Tie a knot on one end of the cord, insert it and make another knot on the other side.</blockquote><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/3d59b93b-03de-4748-8489-002afe741d5c/thumbs/cover/800x533/png/dsc0255.webp"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/1fb0404a-f2d6-4251-b573-3124dc2a1b16/thumbs/cover/800x533/png/18.webp"></figure><blockquote>Note: Insert the elastic cord in the ground glass holder slots.</blockquote><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/3675320f-c15e-4075-87c3-2dd5ae3ebd76/thumbs/cover/800x533/png/20.webp"></figure><blockquote>Note: The film holder can be inserted both in portrait and landscape orientation. to lock the holder in portrait orientation, slide the top clips downwards instead of rotating them.</blockquote><h4> </h4><h4> </h4><h4> Final assembly:</h4><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/32e2de0a-fcf0-441b-916a-dc88925edb28/thumbs/cover/800x533/png/21.webp"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/63bb2cb6-271f-4ca1-bf30-51b5d2ce7892/thumbs/cover/800x533/png/22.webp"></figure><h4> </h4><h4> </h4><h4> Bellows:</h4><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/a627d170-eb60-4aa8-bdba-a9db337dc668/thumbs/cover/800x533/png/23.webp"></figure><blockquote>Note: Insert the bellows frame in the bottom ridge, mind the frame's orientation. I had to improvise the bellows to illustrate the procedure as i didn't have them at the time.</blockquote><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/e3919a30-4832-4ae8-92bf-6e58d7754db0/thumbs/cover/800x533/png/24.webp"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/f7de86cb-2d1c-4938-9eff-13564277f35b/thumbs/cover/800x533/png/25.webp"></figure><blockquote>Note: Once you insert the bellows frame, lock it in place with two screws at top of the standard, these will sit just behind the frame. The process is the same for the rear.</blockquote><h3> </h3>Done, you now have your own Vega 4x5! Grab a 4x5 lens, some film holders, a tripod and go out shooting! This camera is very light and can fit in a small backpack, you just have to loosen both standards and remove them from the rail, so it's perfect to carry around. I'd love to see your builds, feel free to upload them in the make section!&nbsp;<h3> How to operate:</h3><h4> </h4><h4> Lens swapping:</h4><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/4d14e1e3-d0d1-44ac-bd90-ea9a31c4e314/thumbs/cover/800x534/png/26.webp"></figure><blockquote>Note: Insert the lower side of the lens board in the bottom ridge. Here i'm using a 35mm lens just to illustrate the procedure as i didn't have a LF lens on hand.</blockquote><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/ae7f2712-b381-4cf4-878b-83b1ca7e240e/thumbs/cover/800x533/png/27.webp"></figure><blockquote>Note: Once you insert the lensboard lock it in place by lowering the graflock clip.</blockquote><h4> </h4><h4> Exposing film:</h4><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/293a0cc3-ecff-4061-8f30-f6cf23f1a5d4/thumbs/cover/800x534/png/28.webp"></figure><blockquote>Note: Insert the magazine between the Ground glass Holder and the film holder.</blockquote><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/55d87e33-57dc-436a-8b9b-58fecde9f38b/thumbs/cover/800x533/png/29.webp"></figure><blockquote>Note: When you feel a click, the holder has been correctly inserted and is now lightproof.</blockquote><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/43ce4f7d-8d92-4e11-8018-49799150869c/thumbs/cover/800x533/png/30.webp"></figure><blockquote>Note: When you're ready, remove the darkslide and make the exposure. to take out the film magazine pull it backwards to disengage the lock, then slide it out.</blockquote>&nbsp;<h3> Technical Specifications:</h3>&nbsp; Compatible Lensboards: Linhof style Max Front Tilt and Swing: +/- 45° Max Rear Tilt and Swing: +/- 45° Front Rise/Fall: 50mm Up / 45mm Down Rear Rise/Fall: 70mm Up / 20mm Down Front Shift: +/- 30mm Rear Shift: +/- 55mm Weight: 1kg

Vega 4x5 View Camera

Photography

HribaDesign

Hidden hook with hidden mounting to the wall.