kaleblee

Leif3D

If you are looking for a simple and elegant flower pot that can enhance your office or home decor, you might be interested in this print. It is not only a beautiful container for your plants, but also a clever hiding place for your valuables. You can store and hide items such as USB sticks, SD cards, keys, cash or anything else that fits in the secret compartment. The material I used for this print is Marble PLA Filament, which creates a smooth and elegant surface that conceals the 3d printing layers. Artificial 9cm Ikea plants fit perfectly and look very realistic. I&#39;ve used them also in my photos.  Total dimensions: 130mm height &amp; 105mm in diameter Flower Compartment:90mm height &amp; 94mm diameter&nbsp;Inner secret compartment:30mm height &amp; 84mm diameter&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Boosts are greatly appreciated. They not only help offset the filament costs of test printing such designs and going through multiple iterations until they&#39;re &#39;ready&#39; to share, but they&#39;re also a vote of confidence that inspires us to keep exploring new ideas and pushing the limits of what&#39;s possible with 3D printing. I&#39;m deeply thankful for every single boost and the support it represents. Whether you use them on my models or others&#39; - please utilize them.

[Secret Storage] Flower Pot

miscellaneous

Eminent3D

Simple model to store orbital sander and sand paper in an organized way. has 2 holes for screwing into the wall. I printed with PETG to ensure strength.&nbsp;I have a file for AMS use with the numbers assignment to different colors via the paint function or one with just recessed numbers if you do not have AMS for single color print and still have the number be visible.

Sander and Paper Holder

Tools

Longracks Labs

Gridfinity holder for 7-piece Forstner Drill Bit Set (Harbor Freight Warrior Forstner Bit Set, 7 Pieces, ¼, 3/8, ½, 5/8, ¾, 7/8, 1") or similiar. Standard Gridfinity size 3x4 46mm. Tool/bits not included.&nbsp;

Gridfinity 7-Piece Forstner Drill Bit Holder

Gridfinity

Exotech

<div><h1>Summary</h1><div>In Diameter 75.8 mm Chinese diesel Air Heater </div><h1>Print Settings</h1>Printer Brand: <div>Creality</div> <pre><code> Printer: <div>Ender 3 Pro</div></code></pre> Rafts: <div>No</div> <pre><code> Supports: <div>Yes</div></code></pre> Resolution: <div>0.16</div> <pre><code> Infill: <div>25%</div></code></pre> Filament: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&field-keywords=Polymaker+Polyflex+TPU+" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"> Polymaker Polyflex TPU </a><pre><code> Black</code></pre></div>

Diesel Air Heater Vent 90"

Automotive

Stick Force

<h2>Compact print-in-place garden tool mount</h2>UPDATE: Now available as a parameterized OpenSCAD model that you can customize directly on MakerWorld!&nbsp;The mount is parametric and can be customized for exactly the size you need.&nbsp;I recommend using at least 3 wall loops and 25% gyroid infill for adequate strength and be careful when mounting the mount as too much screw force may split the layers.&nbsp;The model from OpenSCAD works with the tolerance set to 0.2 mm on my X1C when printing with Bambu PLA. The latch requires a bit of force to loosen at 0.2 mm tolerance and the hinge can use a bit of exercise before running a bit more easy. The tolerance set to 0.3 mm results in significantly smoother latch movements and easier first release. I would recommend 0.3 mm tolerance and the latch might still require a little wack with something to loosen.&nbsp;Other improvements on the new OpenSCAD model includes a strengthened hinge pin.<h2>Assorted sizes print profiles</h2><h3>Naming and file structure</h3>The files are structured with objects named as: &lt;toolWidth&gt;x&lt;toolDepth&gt;x&lt;height&gt;H-&lt;screwDiameter&gt;mm@&lt;tolerance&gt;mm&nbsp;And plates named according to screw diameter. Each plate contains the same tool width and 6 variations of tool depth.<h3>Printing on Bambu Handy</h3>When printing directly from the Bambu Handy app, please make sure that you only print the variant that you want.&nbsp;<ol><li>Select the plate by screw diameter. <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000025016/design/2024-06-13_af59b73884879.png"></li><li>Select the variant on the plate that you wish to print: <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000025016/design/2024-06-13_6ef7c4290f128.png"></li></ol>&nbsp;

Garden Tool Mount

Organization

GonnaMakeWeirdStuff

Been thinking about making this for a while. I hate that it only holds 9 lids but that is all my cabinets will hold and they nailed in the shelfs.... because who wants to adjust things to their liking.... anyway, the magnets help keep it stationary when pulling lids out, but also makes it removable for when you are ready to reload it quickly... i recommend the black magnets in amazon and you get a ton of sizes.

Yeti Lid Holder

Fun Stuff

SJW5135

Simple M12 battery holders. Fits 1,2, or 3 batteries

Milwaukee M12 Battery Holders

Milwaukee

Imaginarydave

<h2>Designing this took weeks of work and testing.   Your boosts are an appreciated form of thanks </h2>&nbsp;Update: I added a mirrored version of the bases and the manifold for those that want to mounth this somewhere other than on the printer or for those with a k1 max.&nbsp;Update #2: Enclosure file is up! check it out over at. <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/105490#profileId-112584" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/105490#profileId-112584</a><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000089050/design/2023-12-23_b2f1da0f06987.jpg">Update 3: changed print profile to use glued dowels to hold the two parts together.  I think this will sove the most common problem of getting things to line up.  &nbsp;This solved my biggest beef with day to day use of the printer……. changing filaments. &nbsp; I had a few goals.<ol><li>Be able to load filaments from the front.</li><li>Be able to leave my regularly used filaments in place</li><li>Have a place to hold filament when not in use to keep it from unrolling (you cant see it but there is holder behind each loading spot on the manifold.</li><li>be quiet - ie no rubbing.</li></ol>You&#39;re gonna need a few parts<ul><li>I used 4mm OD, 3mm ID PTFE tube to try to reduce friction. I ordered this stuff. <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/46UgvDl" rel="nofollow noopener">https://amzn.to/46UgvDl</a> (bambu labs 4mm/2.5mm should work but you will definitely need to bevel entry points.)</li><li>PTFE tube connector. I used the Bambu labs one <a target="_blank" href="https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/ptfe-tube-connector" rel="nofollow noopener">https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/ptfe-tube-connector</a> you could also use one of these from amazon <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/3RLyR5f" rel="nofollow noopener">https://amzn.to/3RLyR5f</a> . alternatively you could use a single piece of tubing that runs all the way from the extruder to the manifold but I wanted the option to disconnect at the machine.</li><li>8mm x300mm rod. <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/3RAq5qj" rel="nofollow noopener">https://amzn.to/3RAq5qj</a> alternative link: https://amzn.to/47hFPmF</li><li>M10 push connector for PTFE tubing. I used these <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/3TcCwKm" rel="nofollow noopener">https://amzn.to/3TcCwKm</a></li><li>M3 Heat set threaded inserts. I used ones from this kit. <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/4a8hv9L" rel="nofollow noopener">https://amzn.to/4a8hv9L</a> but you could just buy M3 size which is the size I use the most for projects like these. <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/3NksT8C" rel="nofollow noopener">https://amzn.to/3NksT8C</a></li><li>Sixteen 608-zz bearings. I use these. <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/4afBenR" rel="nofollow noopener">https://amzn.to/4afBenR</a></li><li>M3 screws. I think I used mostly 10mm, but if you dont have a huge assortment of these already you should so get a variety and figure it out!</li><li>nylon washers I used ones from this kit. <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/41hQDQz" rel="nofollow noopener">https://amzn.to/41hQDQz</a> 1.5mm thick. but I will also include an .stl file. you should be able to print them.</li><li>I used non slip glass top pads that I had around the house to keep it from sliding around. I am sure many different things could be used. These are what I use and it wont slide at all. <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/3Njf5uU" rel="nofollow noopener">https://amzn.to/3Njf5uU</a></li></ul>How to do it…. you have to be detail oriented and if you skip any steps or have any rubbing it will cause problems.<ol><li>Print bodies as indicated in file notes.</li><li>While they are printing soak the bearings in denatured alcohol overnight, dry them out and the relube with a light oil like 3 in 1 oil or I used sewing machine oil. you need the bearing to spin like you would want them for a fidget spinner.</li><li>Heat sink the threaded inserts into the holes on the front of the bases.</li><li>using CA glue connect the bases together using the dowels.</li><li>Screw the manifold to the front</li><li>Fit TPU bearing covers over the bearings.</li><li>The fun part…… slowly fish the rods from right to left inserting washers and bearings as you go. there should be a washer on each side. this keeps bearings and rolls from rubbing the sides. The left side of each roller space should have the beveled bearing covers with the sharp edge to the left. in cross section it should look like this. The orientation of bearings on the right doesnt matter. Once they are all in make sure the TPU covers area aligned and not rubbing. they should spin freely.  <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000089050/design/92598ce5-25e7-4f56-b434-f6b64c34c06a.png"> <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000089050/design/d7e3122b-9a0d-4954-ab71-f1540a11ec56.png">  </li><li>once you have all 8 pieces through put screw the cover on to hold the rod in place - if you are printing the enclosure you can just leave them off the enclosure will keep the rods from coming out. </li><li>Assemble the manifold.<ol><li>cut 4 pieces of PTFE tube perfectly square and long enough to leave about 2-3 cm sticking out from the top of each loading point. seat them all the way.</li><li>screw the PTFE M10 connector into the manifold.  <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000089050/design/32e3f901-4987-49f4-bd7e-86cf8341156a.png"></li></ol></li><li>Place a coupler on the end of the PTFE tube coming out of the machine and attach PTFE tubing from that point, through the holders to the manifold.  <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000089050/design/24be0f7d-c06b-4884-9157-b27d22c1ccd5.jpg"></li><li>PRINT AWAY  </li></ol>&nbsp;&nbsp;EDIT:&nbsp;DrHO1337 over at printables has some code on his model (found here <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/621741-bambu-lab-manual-material-system" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.printables.com/model/621741-bambu-lab-manual-material-system</a> ) that might make material changes easier for people who want to do simple prints with multiple colors. This model was initially just made for use with single color prints. give it a try. I havent used it. and give the guy a thumbs up over there.&nbsp;here are his instructions:In order to use the slicer correctly, like an AMS, you have to change the filamentchange gcode in the printer settings. The corresponding g-code is in &#34;noAMS.txt&#34;.  <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000089050/design/704c2202-1f8e-45e8-8cc8-147f0697874d.webp">  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;