kacper.sasinowski

Leo.w8

Introducing the Ultimate DIY Durable Tool Box – Your Next 3D Printing Project!&nbsp;Are you ready to take your 3D printing skills to the next level? I've designed a robust and versatile tool box model that you can easily print yourself, and the best part is, it's absolutely free for you to download and create at your convenience.Features:&nbsp;<ol><li>Sturdy Design: This DIY Durable Tool Box boasts a robust construction, ensuring it can withstand the rigors of your toughest projects. Crafted to last, it's built to store your cherished tools and equipment securely.</li><li>Hinged Lid: With two precision-engineered hinges, the lid opens and closes smoothly, providing easy access to your tools while keeping them safely contained when not in use. No more searching for your essentials; they'll be neatly organized and at your fingertips.</li><li>Comfortable Handle: The ergonomically designed handle ensures a comfortable and firm grip, making it easy to transport your tools to any job site or workspace. It's not only functional but also visually appealing, enhancing the overall aesthetics of your toolbox.</li><li>Customizable Fasteners: To assemble your DIY Durable Tool Box, all you need are a few standard fasteners. You'll require 2x M4x50mm screws for the handle and 4x M4x35mm screws for the hinges, which are readily available at your local hardware store. This customization allows you to choose the materials and finishes that suit your personal style and needs.</li><li>Ample Storage Space: Inside, you'll find ample storage space with customizable dividers to keep your tools neatly organized. Whether you're a professional tradesperson or a dedicated hobbyist, this toolbox is designed to accommodate your unique tool collection.</li><li>Durability and Longevity: The materials and design used in this toolbox are intended for long-term use, so you won't have to worry about wear and tear. It's a testament to my commitment to providing you with a high-quality product.</li></ol>Share Your Thoughts, I'd appreciate your ratings and reviews after you've successfully created and used this DIY Durable Tool Box. Your feedback helps me improve and inspires me to keep creating innovative designs for the 3D printing community. Your input is invaluable to me, so please share your experience with our community.Now, it's time to roll up your sleeves and embark on your next 3D printing adventure. Download this free DIY Durable Tool Box model and enjoy the satisfaction of crafting your own reliable storage solution. Say goodbye to flimsy and expensive store-bought toolboxes – build the one that perfectly suits your needs. Get started today and experience the joy of making something exceptional with your own two hands!&nbsp;For the handle 2x M4x50mm For the hinge 4x M4x35mm &nbsp;&nbsp;

Tool Box

Postęp 

Josh-3D

[Intro]I would like to introduce to you my fancy Scifi Box! Or crate? Treasure chest? Do I need to model some gold coins for you to fill this thing up with? Hehe.&nbsp;I wanted to produce a crate of sorts that'd be larger than the print volume, but assembled in a way that it didn't feel like it was just a model chopped up to fit into a printer's build volume. This is the results of those efforts. Part of my goal with this too was to make it easy to print, have cool styling, and have some sort of latch/locking mechanism (although it is primitive, it is still cool). For bonus points, I made it stackable!&nbsp;[What you'll need]&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:37.91%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/683999/2024-02-09_b6ff735a9db58.png"></figure>Tools:Hex Driver #3 & #2.5Drill bits for clearing out holesFile for cleaning up edges where berm is used, or whatever tool you like for that job.&nbsp;Hardware:16 M4 Nuts (Used for connecting the End Caps, Ends, And Mid section together. 8 M4x25 (Used to connect the Ends to the Mid section) 2 M4x30 (Used for the hinge) 2 M3x5 (Used on the Lock. You can Use M3x6 screws, but don't over tighten them, as it'll push through and show on the front) 14 M4x10 (6 for the Lock, and 8 are used to connect the End Caps to the Ends)&nbsp;Filament I used: (For reference! Use the colors you see fit!)Mid - Bambu PLA Iridium Gold MetallicEnds - Bambu PLA Matte CharcoalHardware - Bambu PLA Basic Bronze   [Getting ready to print]You're going to need about 2kg of filament for this case. It'll be about 1kg for the ends, and a little less for the mid/lid section. I modeled everything to be relatively easy to print, but they're still big full plate models, so make sure you've got things like warping under control (On the P1/X1 for example, turning off the aux fan!), that your bed is super clean, and yeah. These are big prints, so let's check ourselves before we wreck ourselves, because a failed print here can be costly.&nbsp;There is a little post processing that should be done with the models once they're off the build plate. Holes will need to be cleared for where the screws go, as I modeled a flat plane in place to help keep them clean. Additionally, on the lid, you'll want to make sure a screw can insert into the hole freely, and use a drill to clear it out if need be.&nbsp;[Assembly]Let's get to it, shall we? We'll start with the lid. Make sure a m4 sized screw will fit freely into the hole. We don't want it super loose, but we shouldn't have to screw it in. <figure class="image image_resized" style="width:55.37%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/683999/2024-02-10_c9999fe6e110c.png"></figure>Next, we'll assemble the lock mechanism. Two M3x5mm screws are used as stops for turning the lock. You can use 6mm length screws, but be careful not to put them in too far, as it'll push out and blemish the front surface of the lid. For everything else, use M4x10mm screws.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:55.83%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/683999/2024-02-10_41aad9dca556f.png"></figure>Now it's time for the body.&nbsp;1. Clear out the holes using a drill, so the screw can pass freely through.  (Planes were modeled in to help support the screw holes during printing)2. Inset 8 M4 nuts on either side of the mid section into the slots. &nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:55.28%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/683999/2024-02-10_f1141dd059fd4.png"></figure>(Keep in mind these drawings show the assembly of one side, but both sides should be done at the same time)3. Make sure you clear out the holes with a drill bit, like we did in Step 1 for the main body.4. Now, we'll use M4x25mm screws to attach the ends to the main body. Do this for both sides.5. For the hinge, we'll use a M4x30mm screw, or longer. These are just pushed in, and to hold them in completely, we'll insert a plug/dowl to help keep them in place. Before you put the screw/dowl in for the lid, position the lid in place (This step is not pictured!). Make sure you're happy with the fit of everything before you secure the lid, as once you get the screws and plugs/dowls in, it'll be difficult to remove them.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:59.3%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/683999/2024-02-10_0b45c572681a.png"></figure>6. The lid should be installed at this point, with both ends installed. From here we'll attach the end caps. Firstly we'll insert 4 M4 nuts on each end.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:58.99%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/683999/2024-02-10_e51dd47e5aea7.png"></figure>7. We'll use 4 M4x10mm screws on each side, screwed into the holes inset into the bigger holes! Once we have all of those in, we'll cover them up with the end plugs. The slot in the plugs is sized to work best with a coin. <figure class="image image_resized" style="width:60.06%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/683999/2024-02-10_35cdd6dea4d61.png"></figure>That's it! Enjoy!&nbsp;-------If you like my work, consider showing your love by <a target="_blank" href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/josh3d" rel="nofollow noopener">Buying me a coffee</a>. Additionally, if you're looking to sell prints of my design, please check out my <a target="_blank" href="https://www.patreon.com/josh3d/" rel="nofollow noopener">Patreon</a> page for more information.

Scifi Crate

Ideas

thisnoise

Instax photos are great, small, in the moment, but only so many can stay on the fridge.&nbsp;I have designed this storage box. Any old box would work but they don't stack overy well & your memories deserve better.&nbsp;Holds 30 individual photos. Has smalls pins to hold the lid on, the fit is quite tight anyway.

Instax photo storage box

instax

Hrco69

MODEL&nbsp;This is remix of this model: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/19118#profileId-24058" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/19118#profileId-24058</a> I made small changes to adapt more tight, and make it a bit more slimmer, also included .step file with model

eSUN cardboard spool holder WOKR WITH ANY 20cm SPOOL

Cardboard spool

Tom.john98

I designed this clip for the samla container from ikea in with i store my filament. It really sturdy and helps keeping the container sealed.It shouldn't be in the way when stacking multiple boxes.I add printprofiles for a single 40 mm long variant to test if you like and also 4 x 40mm and 4 x 60 mm long also the stls for them are there so you can print as many as you need.

Ikea Samla Clip 

Drybox

Zion Wang

AMS DryPods for Xiaomi Temperature and Humidity Monitor Clock 2Xiaomi Temperature and Humidity Monitor Clock 2 is a cheap solution to watch the condition inside AMS.&nbsp;AMS的干燥盒，前置接口适配小米温湿度计2，测试PETG成功打印。

AMS DryPods for Xiaomi Temperature and Humidity Monitor Clock 2

Bambu printer 

TBone_427120

This lampshade is designed for the <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/sv/models/13717#profileId-13429" rel="nofollow noopener">Bambu Led Lamp 001</a> kit ←- Follow this link to get the model for the base that holds the electronics and that this globe shade locks into.&nbsp;This is a moon lithophane model for the LED Lamp kit base built using NASA SVS data.&nbsp;Before printing, it is highly recommended to test and calibrate the filaments. Test Prints are provided in a profile to test the trickier parts of the print, in particular the top of the moon. Printing the sliced off moon top will give an idea if the flow rates need to be calibrated or if the layer heights need refining.Both of these are eSun PLA, and both were printed using the same eSun PLA+ profile. <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000031191/design/2023-10-06_e7cbdab0e3545.jpg"> The one on the left (&#34;creamy&#34;) needed different flow rate settings to avoid the gaps in the thin walls. Moral of the story: spend the extra 20 minutes to at least run the Auto Calibration for a new filament (and Manual isn&#39;t so bad to do either particularly if you print on the textured plate).&nbsp;The extra big brim is out of an abundance of caution. There is nothing worse than being ten minutes from the end of a 17 hour print and hearing *CRACK* followed by a spaghetti detected notification. If the test print indicates your filament needs a small center support for the top of the moon, “Normal/Snug” supports will work best. Use Manual supports (Auto will result in a ton of exterior supports for the base of the moon) and paint a small dot in the underside of the top of the Moon. The latest version of the model has been made a little thicker and is more forgiving for printing with most filaments. The part that interfaces with the lamp kit base can easily be made a different filament to match the LED holder material or just for variety. Just set the base filament for the “ModifyBaseSettings” modifier. Doing will require only one filament purge, no prime tower is necessary.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:41.3%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000031191/design/2023-10-06_33ea3c815b5ef8.png"></figure>&nbsp;If using the modifier to make a material change at the base, make sure to pick two filaments that have good adhesion to each other.Because the print requires supports in the base and cleanly removing those supports is important for a snug fit to the lamp kit base, a test print is provided to make sure the filament and support settings will release cleanly. Normal snug supports provided the best results (tree supports required much more effort).&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:17.23%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000031191/design/2023-10-06_f00e2d2199c81.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;If you do use the center support, when removing don&#39;t pull at individual folds from the bottom. Use something to grab on multiple folds as far up as possible (a pair of kitchen tongs works well) and twist.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:17.52%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000031191/design/2023-10-06_c2509972a68348.jpg"></figure>Twisting will put less stress on the top of the sphere and less risk of pulling away the moon surface. If you have wisps of filaments, resist the urge to use a heat gun because the variable thickness of the shell will contract non-uniformly under the heat. This is the result using a heat gun on a lithophane:<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000031191/design/2023-10-06_a27a97fbc55ec.jpg">&nbsp;