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Print successful 117 different models and 1,635 hours

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Printed the shorter knob in gloss black PLA for Deskware drawers. Clean finish and solid feel. I know the designer prefers ‘nice’ metal or premium-material knobs for touch points, but this printed one works well for my daily use.
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Not sure if it’s the model or my filament, but in PLA metallic silk, it partially air-printed the ratchet tab — it still works, just looks a little funky. I sliced from the desktop app instead of the phone, which sometimes makes a difference. Worked well once I loaded up the tube like in the example.
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Printed as-is on the H2D — one in green metallic silk with a red base, the other in olive with red. The model does a lot of air printing to achieve that fuzzy texture, so I’d avoid print-by-layer even for single-color multiples and stick with print-by-object instead. The H2D’s AI really doesn’t like this one — expect several false ‘spaghetti’ detections. Mine threw two to four warnings on the tree in front of the webcam and another two on the one in the back of the bed.
Definitely not a print to start right before bed and hope to wake up to a finished forest. I did after the second tree (in back) reached the point where the front one finally stopped triggering false alarms — woke up to a little Christmas morning scene in the H2D’s massive print bay. Worth the extra few minutes of monitoring, but if I’d gone to bed early, I’d have woken up to an idle printer wasting power, still warning me about spaghetti that wasn’t.
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Works. Mine is hard to get started sometimes, but it always comes out clean when done. It's happened twice so far during the respool because the way mine printed, standard PLA doesn't always tuck under nicely. Would use again, maybe with a profile that makes the holder portion a hair larger, but not much. Printed on either my X1C or H2D with default settings and PLA.
If using a dryer, make sure it matches your hottest material or pair it with what you're using.
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It printed well, but depending on what I’m loading, it can still be just as tricky as the bare tool. I’ll try a few different models to compare. I do like that it helps with both the welding process and trimming the mini PTFE when you’re done — assuming it doesn’t buckle, bunch up, or pull away, leaving you with a banana, a chunky slug, or a stringy taffy monster.
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It took my daughter a minute to figure these out (she’s a young toddler), but she actually does better with these than the cuteness overload chopstick trainers her mom prefers. We didn’t look through all the pictures before printing — the cover only shows the gears and chopsticks, not the full model.
Let’s just say the final shape had… strong tactical energy. 😅
After my wife got over the “what on earth did you print?” moment, it turned out to be the most effective set we’ve tried. Function over form, I guess. It’s helping our kid connect her Asian roots and her American upbringing — one slightly alarming but surprisingly effective print-in-place contraption at a time.
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Love this thing! I did the motor mod, but with a USB-C trigger board instead of the laptop PSU. The only complaint is that I cannot get all of the heat inserts and screws to line up on the dust catcher. The 3rd print of the catcher: I hand-cranked a bare drill bit a turn and a half through the holes, and got 4 of the 8 to line up, one for each corner. I called it a day. Have done numerous 1kg spools, a 3kg spool, and a 5kg spool, so I ordered more 5kg spools.
Keep an eye on it at high speeds, it chucked a 750g spool across my kitchen on a nasty tangle (really cheap spool, 250g of the 1kg made it to my receiving spool, not the fault of the machine, that's physics) when I was still running it with my drill while the motor mod parts arrived. Thankfully, the kids weren't in its path, and it only broke printed stuff. Now I aim it at myself or unbreakables when running at high speed.
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It works and does what it says. I ended up going back to the one called Very Sharp, and a pair of really thin ones with replaceable blades, because my X1C was shredding the blades on this one.
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Very convenient; I have used it a few times now for both the H2D and X1C. I did need a few things the X1C didn't have in common a couple of times, so I may need one for its Kickstarter loadout too.
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It looked great, but I kept jamming on my Amazon magnets and couldn't get the rubber band to stay connected to another. One worked great for a few magnets, so I know it can work. I went with a pen-style.
Will revisit this model when I get some bigger magnets to install—suggestion to have it accept a spring instead of a rubber band. I'm not sure what can be done about slightly off-spec magnets, though.
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worked great, used this on both the screw length and bolt size sorter machines
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I printed the whole thing with no walls and it gave a cool effect
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Works great. The only constructive feedback I have is that the insert holes are too small, leading to excessive misalignment stackup of the dust catcher. So, I used just the outermost screws on it —four instead of eight.
Oh, one additional constructive feedback: the PTFE tube clamp should have the bolts and screw head side swapped on the linear rail mod as published by this designer. This way, a power screwdriver can be used instead of a hex key or Allen wrench with the 90-degree bend.
Mine has the linear rail mod from the start, and I went with the drill adapter, cleaned up two messes immediately, and rescued my equipment from a cardboard spool not long afterward.
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I had a system that needed a low profile PCI blank, the stock ones had airflow and I liked this one, but I also needed to pass my watercooling tubing to the external radiators and pumps so I cooked up this remix, it came out so good I did it again to a full size bracket.
Mesh PCI brackets for Barrow Slot Pass-Thru G1/4
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came out a little bumpy but it's working in the HT AMS
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This is the best scraper I've ever printed from here, and I've tried quite a few. This one has held up remarkably well, even years later, after being printed in PLA.
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These work well, but now that teh AMS2 Pro and the HT are out I'm looking for one that can handle rotating in the AMS while heating.I guess I'd also have to print them in something other than PLA too.
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This was a must for me as I needed AM/PM vs 14 days, which would be nice but unweildy without some sort of clock-level complication and still thicker or wider diameter. I don't know how I'd do it but the ability to move the refil indicator and blanking if you do a mid cycle reload would be cool.
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Still running strong years later, love it! sometimes tries to bind but it usually sorts out so I haven't tried to see if something needs re-printing are adjusting yet
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