juliette.d.moss

john zygoulakis

CK62 Motospeed as keyboard.(removed outer shell) Raspberry pi 3/4/5/Zero w as main board Any phone as display.(dimensions can be adjusted)

CYBERDECK v1.0

Cyberdeck

dangles_

Rackmount studs to replace those annoying cage nuts in your server rack. &nbsp;Only tested on lighter switches but seem strong enough for most 1u applications.

Rackstud Duo (1u) 

server

Buzzzz

<h2>Kitchen Cabinet Hook</h2>Here are 3 versions of my kitchen or bathroom cabinet hook. Each of them in plain colour or in 3 different patterns to match your decor or ambiance.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:74.07%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/282736/2023-12-13_983b128142b96.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;Fits cabinet doors up to 20mm thick. I can upload different sizes if needed, just let me know.&nbsp;Two build plates uploaded:<ul><li>One with the 3 hooks in plain colour</li><li>One with each model with 4 different patterns. I do not recommend to print this plate as is as it would be a lot of wasted filament. Select the model and pattern you want to print and hide the other ones to minimize filament change</li></ul>&nbsp;Have a look at my other kitchen accessory, the Bagel Slicer:<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:73.67%;"><a href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/91382#profileId-97700" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/282736/2023-12-13_e3ab5b80b89fa.jpg"></a></figure><h4>Bambu Infill Coaster Set</h4><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:72.85%;"><a href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/98396#profileId-104858" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/282736/2023-12-18_f50946f858b9b8.png"></a></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;And some other hooks I designed:<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:73.22%;"><a href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/87195#profileId-93445" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/282736/2023-12-13_ea0375361d81c8.jpg"></a></figure>

Kitchen Cabinet Hook

Kitchen

JDJDJD

The GigaLight is perfect for your work area, desk, nightstand, bookshelf, coffee table, or anywhere else you want to have something interesting to look at.&nbsp;The lantern itself prints on a single build plate.&nbsp;Each side of the lantern has 2 vertical slots for the panels, one in back and one in front. The back slot is for the white diffuser panel, and the front slot is for the artwork panel. This means no filament changes and an AMS isn’t required. Multiple layered panels also give it an authentic quality and multi-dimensional feel. No panels at all gives it a classic modern feel!&nbsp;<ul><li>Designed for FDM printing</li><li>No Brims</li><li>No Overhangs</li><li>No Supports</li><li>No Post Processing</li></ul>NEW: Get Additional Panels!&nbsp;Some people have asked for a way to purchase additional artwork panels which you can now do at the link below. For my fellow Bambu Lab fans, I'm offering a 35% off promo code for a short period of time - 35% off Code: NSBL35&nbsp;Get Stars Panels here: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/1615649668/stars-tea-light-lantern-3d-printable" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.etsy.com/listing/1615649668/stars-tea-light-lantern-3d-printable</a>&nbsp;Get Vintage Star With Pine Tree Artwork Panels here: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/1620403447/christmas-vintage-star-tea-light-lantern" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.etsy.com/listing/1620403447/christmas-vintage-star-tea-light-lantern</a>&nbsp;Get Snowflake Artwork Panels here: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/1619805091/christmas-snowflake-tea-light-lantern-3d" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.etsy.com/listing/1619805091/christmas-snowflake-tea-light-lantern-3d</a>&nbsp;Get Christmas Tree Artwork Panels here: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/1600926680/3d-print-gigalight-tea-light-lantern" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.etsy.com/listing/1600926680/3d-print-gigalight-tea-light-lantern</a>&nbsp;Get Tea LightsSmall tea lights can be purchased at many places for less than $1 each. I recommend the small tea lights that are usually around 1.4” diameter x 1.25” tall. The maximum candle diameter is 52mm. Here’s an example: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T58ZJQT?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T58ZJQT?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1</a><h3>Tips:</h3><ul><li>I print the artwork panels using the Smooth PEI Plate, or the Textured PEI plate and both work very good with easy removal. If you use the Cool Plate, you may need to be a bit more gentle removing the art panels with your scraper.</li><li>Wash your plate with soap and water before starting all prints.</li><li>The top screw caps only need to be gently tightened by hand to hold the top in place.</li><li>“Bambu Lab Logo With Text” panel will have some character/rounding to the lettering. If you want to crisp it up, you can use a razor blade to do so. The logo in the photo is straight off the printer with no cleanup. If you want to play it safe, print the Bambu Logo (without text).</li></ul>Assembly is easy, but if you have any questions just message me and I'll help you out!&nbsp;The GigaLight can not be sold.

Tea Light Lantern - GigaLight

lights

technerd

THE ULTIMATE NOZZLE WIPER&nbsp;I print a lot of PETG with my Bambu Lab P1S and was a little disappointed with the original Nozzle Wiper it didn't cleaned well enough. That's why I came up with a simple and inexpensive solution to get a perfectly clean nozzle. All you need is a good quality silicone tube. I tested mine with a soldering iron (Weller Digital set at 250°C) and it didn't melted at all. STEP file is included in case you have a silicone tube with a different diameter.&nbsp;HINT: Someone on Facebook “Thanks Avianna!” told me she is putting a tiny bit of high smoke point oil “she is using grapeseed oil” on and around the clean nozzle. The oil does wear off after a while but you just keep a q-tip near by and a tiny bit of oil. Takes a second to apply. Lasts for days if not weeks. Makes for consistently clean prints ensures enhanced print quality with cleaner and more precise prints by repelling plastic and preventing buildup. Apply the oil at room temperature not at printing temperatures! It works like this expensive plastic repellent fluid from slice engineering. TEFLON or PTFE oil should work too. Use at your own risk. Just wanted to share this information with you guys.&nbsp;Printing:Keep it simple and print it from PETG and 15-20°C hotter than usual. PETG has very good layer adhesion and resists higher temps too. Don't print it from ASA/ABS or it will break very easily because ASA/ABS has in comparison bad layer adhesion.&nbsp;Quality Silicone Tube (200-300°C)You can find the silicone tube on amazon or if you're from germany here: <a target="_blank" href="https://schlauch24.de/Silikonschlauch-Meterware-3-mm-x-7-mm" rel="nofollow noopener">https://schlauch24.de/Silikonschlauch-Meterware-3-mm-x-7-mm</a>It is also available on aliexpress here: <a target="_blank" href="https://de.aliexpress.com/item/32608855966.html" rel="nofollow noopener">https://de.aliexpress.com/item/32608855966.html</a>&nbsp;Outer diameter = 7mmInner diameter = 3mmCut to exact length = 19mm (this length is barely touching the silicone sock from the nozzle)Cut approx. 3mm deep into the cross section, offset by 90 degrees&nbsp;Installation:Push the silicone tube down until it touches the adapter. Re-use the screw from the original wiper. I also made a thicker segment on the pin to prevent the tube from slipping off. I have also strategically positioned the pin so that the nozzle passes right through the center cleaning the nozzle perfectly. Happy printing!&nbsp;&nbsp;SILICONE TUBE CUTTING JIGI also made a simple cutting jig to easily get the correct length and cross section cuts, here: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/95952" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/95952</a>&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/765231/2023-12-16_63723a4e1d179.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;Here is a short Youtube video showing how it works:<figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://youtu.be/rk-14syxViI"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/rk-14syxViI" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure>&nbsp;

Ultimate Nozzle Wiper Bambu Lab X1 P1 P1S

Nozzle

MKCAMC

I created this single speaker version of my stereo phone amplifier for anyone who's phone does not have a top stereo speaker. A benefit of this design is that it will fit almost any phone. It provides a great deal of sound amplification for all your music and movies. Enjoy!

Universal Single Speaker Horizontal Phone Amplifier

Speaker

franceschellifederico

Just a simple but very useful cable organizer.I redesigned <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/it/model/122388-best-cable-clips" rel="nofollow noopener">this</a> cable clip from scratch, making some modifications to improve its robustness.&nbsp;Introducing a sleek and efficient 3D cable organizer, meticulously designed to streamline your workspace. Crafted with precision, this model seamlessly tames the chaos of cables, providing a simple yet elegant solution for cable management. Its thoughtfully engineered structure ensures easy routing and organization of wires, preventing tangling and clutter. With a minimalist design and user-friendly functionality, this 3D cable organizer brings order to your environment while maintaining a clean and tidy workspace.

Cable Organizer v1

Cables

Marc Elbichon

🗃️🗄️📌🔩 Give a look to the entire <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/3864875302/collections/69080" rel="nofollow noopener">Ultimate Drawer System collection</a> to discover many drawer layouts and accessories!&nbsp;Features :<ul><li>Shelves are made with grooves, avec drawers have a tongue, that let you to print a drawer of any height and place it anywhere into the shelf,</li><li>Shelves are stackable horizontally and vertically for an easy scale up, you can attach them together with M4x8mm csk screws and M4 nuts, side to side or bottom to top</li><li>Shelves are wall mountable, each one have 4x 5mm holes at the back</li><li>Shelves are available from 2 to 15 drawers high</li><li>Each drawers are available from 1U to 6U height. However, there is a limit in number of files per post, so you&#39;ll find <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/433070#profileId-337701" rel="nofollow noopener">4U to 6U on this one</a></li></ul>&nbsp;

Ultimate Drawer System

UltiDrawerSys

GoodmanDurnik

Gridfinity 1 x 2 bin lid with handle for storing replacement filament cutters and nozzle wipers.

Gridfinity Bin With Lid For Bambu Parts

Gridfinity Bambu

K2_Kevin

This Hex Tray offers thicker walls for a more rugged tray. 1x3 Gridfinity base plate.

Hex Bin Gridfinity 1x3

GridBins

V3 Precision

This Lid Extension addresses a few issues; the PTFE tube rubbing on the underside of the lid, the need for a little more light, need to vent heat out of the enclosure when printing with PLA.&nbsp;The assembly is simple, just four parts for the frame, a bracket for the LED controller, and two slides.<ul><li>The slides are color coated (red and green) to be able to see if the vents are open or closed with a glance.</li><li>The four parts of the frame are embossed with identifiers (FR, FL, RR, RL).</li><li>I used M3 - 0.5 socket head cap screws to fasten the tabs on the frame and for the LED controller.</li><li>Weather stripping (½" x 1/16") was used on the top lid cavity. (also used when converting P1P to P1S)</li><li>I printed the parts using PLA-CF and ASA. I am sure it would print well with PETG also.</li></ul>&nbsp;All of the parts are listed in the BOM (included) and sources for the LED and weather stripping.&nbsp;FYI: The LED strip might pull too much power, causing the LED lights to flash on and off. I was able to cut the LED strip down to cover 3 sides of the Lid Extension and have no power problems. I applied the LED lights to the Front, Right, and Rear of the enclosure to reduce any shadows. &nbsp;Print Profile for the entire project on one plate and Profiles for the individual parts are provided.&nbsp;COMING SOON*Watch for another version of the Lid Extension designed more for the X1 series with power cable egress. &nbsp;For more information, be sure to watch the Youtube video:&nbsp;<figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://youtu.be/B0NhVtjF39g"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/B0NhVtjF39g" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure>

LED Lid Extension for X1 and P1 Series

Lights

eds_3d_shop

Working on such designs takes a lot of time and if you like my work and want to support me - please print my “Designer” printprofiles! It will help me to design more! Thank you in advance!🙏&nbsp;It was time to replace my activated carbon filter again and I didn't feel like ordering and waiting again... I found a really nice model/remix for refillable charcoal /activated carbon filter for BambuLab printers at printables (Thanks to Skywarrant! :-) That suited me almost perfectly… But I had to change a few things so that I'm completely satisfied with it! :-) And I wanted to share the remixed version with you!&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized image-style-align-left" style="width:26.74%;"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/569798/rich_content/dfdf9524-1051-4af2-9336-f730faa20a61/image-19-10-23-03-22.jpeg#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%22620154cb-9c24-4aae-887a-d95673dc0f14%22%2C%22w%22%3A750%2C%22h%22%3A1063%7D"></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Here in video, I show how to change the filter material (activated carbon and HEPA!) with the help of this cool box!<a target="_blank" href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CyY9BXIr_8r/" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.instagram.com/p/CyY9BXIr_8r/</a>&nbsp;<h4> </h4><h4> </h4>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<h4>My changes:</h4><ul><li>The lid has got 2 slits to be able to open it more comfortably - take a look at the pictures!</li><li>The tab on the lid is now more solid, so it can't break now</li><li>scaled down to 98% for better, easy fit.</li><li>main box got carbon logo and lettering ;-)</li><li>extra variant of main box stl with tabs for better adhesion (take this for ABS/ASA! ;-), just cut off these small tabs with the cutter after printing.</li></ul><h4>Print Instructions:</h4>Quality:<ul><li>layer height: 0.2mm</li></ul>Strength:<ul><li>only one wall on top surfaces: off</li><li>only one wall on first layer: off</li><li>wall loops: 5 (only for “Activated_Carbon_Filter_Bottom_with_Tabs.stl”: 9 Walls!)</li><li>top shell layers: 0</li><li>bottom shell layers: 0</li><li>sparce infill density: 30% - 50% (im prefer 50% - see on pictures)</li><li>sparce infill pattern: Triangles</li><li>Infill/wall overlap: 20%</li><li>Infill combination: off</li></ul>Speed:<ul><li>first layer: 10-20mm/s</li><li>first layer infill: 10-20mm/s</li></ul>Filament: take better ASA/ABS or at least PETG - for better temperature resistance!Good and safe source for activated carbon (or just search for “Nevermore Carbon”): <a target="_blank" href="https://github.com/nevermore3d/Nevermore_Micro" rel="nofollow noopener">https://github.com/nevermore3d/Nevermore_Micro</a>&nbsp;— ! —&nbsp;Thanks for downloading, rating in advance and please don't forget to like this model! ;-)<h3>Take a look at my another very helpful designs for X1/P1P/P1S/A1/A1mini:</h3><figure class="image"><a href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/4051934936" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/393323/2024-01-12_00009ce9c82bf.png"></a><figcaption>🔗<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/4051934936" rel="nofollow noopener">Eds_3D_Shop designs on MakerWorld</a> 🔗</figcaption></figure>&nbsp;If you like my work and want to support me - please follow me and if you want - you can buy me a coffee! <a target="_blank" href="https://linktr.ee/eds_3d_shop" rel="nofollow noopener">https://linktr.ee/eds_3d_shop</a>Thank you for your support and.. happy printing!Ed ;-)&nbsp;&nbsp;

Air Filter "hepa" & Carbon Refillable Replacement for Bambulab X1 / P1S / Upgraded P1P

Air Filter

BamBam Design

Cool looking life-/point-counter with snapping effect.&nbsp;I designed it small and cute, to count points in family board games.&nbsp;Easy printable and easy assembly without tools or glue.It counts to 99!<ul><li>100% Version: Numbers are engraved only, you could paint with a sharpie if you want.</li><li>Scaled Version: Numbers are painted, print with AMS! Comes out great👌</li></ul>&nbsp;Happy printing😃👍 A follow costs nothing just like the 3D model! Thank you 🤗&nbsp;➡Added a Scaled 3mf with AMS colored numbers! Numbers came out very well, but has a long print time.&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/770440/2023-11-20_f9f252f6941e7.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;Commercial license you can get here:<a target="_blank" href="https://www.patreon.com/BamBamDesign/membership" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.patreon.com/BamBamDesign/membership</a>

Life Counter - with snapping effect

Vixvvo 3D

I've crafted a versatile 3D-modeled desk drawer for you, a compact and customizable space where you can store anything you desire. The best part? It easily attaches with double-sided tape, providing a sleek and hassle-free solution.&nbsp;&nbsp;All Commercial License, Will be available on my Patreon "Vixvvo3D" For a Low Price of 6$/Month. (currently trying to post & model 1/Weeks) <a target="_blank" href="https://patreon.com/Vixvvo3D" rel="nofollow noopener">https://patreon.com/Vixvvo3D</a>&nbsp;

Desk Drawer

Drawer

N302OO7

Upgrade für die Bambulab Nozzle Wipers: Silikon-Wischer für verbesserte Reinigung.&nbsp;Mit dieser Modifikation wird der herkömmliche PTFE-Wischer durch eine fortschrittliche Silikonvariante ersetzt.Die Halterung ist speziell für die Modelle X1, X1C, P1P und P1S konzipiert und verfügt über einen Silikonspanner, um sicherzustellen, dass der Wischer fest in Position bleibt.&nbsp;Die Gussform für den Wischer ist in einer 4er-Variante verfügbar.Bei der Herstellung des Silikon-Wischers wurde das hitzebeständige TFC Troll Fractory TYP 3 Silikon verwendet, das Temperaturen von bis zu 450°C standhält. Dieses Silikon ist geruchsarm, was die Anwendung noch angenehmer macht.&nbsp;Update:&nbsp;Verbesserung der Gussform (V5) -17. November 2023: Wird derzeit intensiv getestet, um die Dichtheit, die Qualität des Silikonabdrucks und die problemlose Ablösbarkeit der Gussmasse von der Form sicherzustellen.&nbsp;18. November 2023: Erfolgreich getestet – etwa 2 Gramm Silikon werden pro Wischer benötigt (1g A + 1g B).Diese Aktualisierung stellt sicher, dass die Qualität und Funktionalität der Bambulab Nozzle Wipers kontinuierlich verbessert wird, um den Anforderungen gerecht zu werden.&nbsp;19. November 2023: Derzeit arbeite ich an der Entwicklung einer Gussform für Silikonsocken, die speziell für das Bambulab Original Hotend konzipiert ist.Dies ermöglicht die Verwendung des erworbenen TFC Troll Fractory TYP 3 Silikons für verschiedene Projekte.Diese Initiative dient nicht nur der effizienten Verwendung des erworbenen Silikons, sondern zielt auch darauf ab, eine hochwertige Lösung für die Anforderungen des Bambulab Original Hotends bereitzustellen. Weitere Aktualisierungen und Fortschritte in diesem Projekt werden in Kürze verfügbar sein.&nbsp;23. November 2023:Ab sofort ist die Raketen Socke in meinem Profil verfügbar. Viel Spaß damit weitere Projekte werden folgen ;)&nbsp;Die Füllkannte ist die erste kannte auf das das Silikon trifft (siehe Bild). Falls man zu viel Silikon eingefüllt hat, kann man nach dem Aushärten den Wischer mit einem scharfen Messer auf Maß scheiden.&nbsp;Achtung die Toleranzen wurden auf 0,10mm (+-0,05) gesetzt mit PETG (Esun) gedruckt. Flow Kallibrierung ist notwendig. Ggf. im Profi Modus die Loch innen außen Toleranzen kalibrieren oder die Schraube etwas kleiner skalieren falls diese Probleme bereitet.https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/xy-hole-contour-compensation&nbsp;Kurzanleitung zum Silikon Gießen:&nbsp;Um mit TF-C Troll Factory Silikonkautschuk Typ 3 zu gießen, folge diesen Schritten:1. **Vorbereitung:** Stelle sicher, dass deine Arbeitsfläche sauber und trocken ist. Bereite die Gussform vor, indem du sie gründlich reinigst und gegebenenfalls mit Formtrennmittel behandelst.&nbsp;2. **Mischverhältnis:** Beachte das empfohlene Mischverhältnis des Silikons. Typischerweise wird dies im Verhältnis 1:1 oder in Gewichtsanteilen angegeben. Miss die Komponenten genau ab.&nbsp;3. **Mischen:** Vermische die beiden Silikonkomponenten sorgfältig. Achte darauf, dass du gründlich rührst, um eine homogene Mischung zu erhalten. Vermeide Luftblasen, indem du langsam und gleichmäßig rührst.&nbsp;4. **Entgasen: (Bei dem Wischer nicht zwingend nötig) ** Um Luftblasen zu minimieren, kannst du die Mischung vorsichtig entgasen. Verwende hierfür einen Vakuumentgasungsgarer, wenn verfügbar.&nbsp;5. **Gießen:** Gieße das Silikon langsam in die vorbereitete Form. Achte darauf, dass die Gussmasse alle Details der Form erreicht und keine Luftblasen einschließt.&nbsp;6. **Aushärten lassen:** Lass das Silikon gemäß den Herstellerangaben aushärten. Dies kann einige Stunden bis zu einem Tag dauern, abhängig von der spezifischen Formel des Silikons.&nbsp;7. **Entformen:** Nachdem das Silikon vollständig ausgehärtet ist, entnehme das gegossene Objekt vorsichtig aus der Form.&nbsp;8. **Nachbearbeitung:** Falls notwendig, kannst du das gegossene Objekt weiter nachbearbeiten, schleifen oder bemalen.Beachte immer die spezifischen Anweisungen des Herstellers auf der Verpackung des TF-C Troll Factory Silikonkautschuks Typ 3, um optimale Ergebnisse zu erzielen.&nbsp;Vielen Dank für eure hilfreichen Kommentare.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;

Nozzle Wiper silicone wiper for improved cleaning

HotEnd

3DMON maker

I like MihaiDesigns' idea and the P1P Armor Modplate. This is a remix of Bambu Lab AMS Stacking Stand with Armor Modplate style.All gaps for assembly are intentionally very small. If it's difficult, please use a tool like a rubber mallet.&nbsp;Updated on Jan. 7th, 2004- The wall extension(Riser) is 20mm taller than the previous one, so the lower AMS top lid can fully open without the need to hold it.- Also, you can add one more bracing when you use the wall extension for more rigidity.&nbsp;Pins are separate parts because they need more strength, so at least 50% infill and 4 wall loops are recommended.* If you want to push the lower AMS further back, please use Pin4 v2 & Pin4-Spacer instead of Pin3 v2.* All pins are redesigned for better strength. Thanks for the great idea! <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@djwhouse" rel="nofollow noopener">@djwhouse</a> Now, pins can be printed horizontally.<ul><li>Pin1 v2(13mm) & Lock : for assembling bracing parts.</li><li>Pin2 v2(40mm) : for adding side wall extensions.</li><li>*Pin3 v2(20mm) : for joining bracing assembly and side walls.</li><li>*Pin4 v2(50mm) & *Pin4-Spacer : (Deeper) for joining bracing assembly and side walls.</li></ul>&nbsp;If you need a build plate holder version, please check the link below.<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/62232#profileId-64745" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/62232#profileId-64745</a>&nbsp;

AMS Stacking Stand Remix

Magic Studio 3D

"Stitch 3D Model" 🌟🌺 Embark on a whimsical journey to the enchanting world of Disney with this delightful Stitch 3D model! Inspired by the lovable character from Lilo & Stitch, this intricately designed piece will add a touch of intergalactic charm to your decor.&nbsp;This model does not yet contain the step file, so to import it into Bamboo Studio, you just have to select all the STLs and drag it to Bambu Studio!<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/399219/2023-10-27_6aa316784592c.png"></figure>&nbsp;Bambu Studio Settings: The settings are just a recommendation, however you can print with the settings you are already used to using! • Preferences (ctrl + P) → activate developer settings → Quality →Advanced → First Layer Flow Ratio: 1.04 • Quality → Wall generator → Arachne • Quality → Wall transitioning threshold angle → 50º • Strength → Advanced → Infill/wall overlap → 20% • Quality → Advanced → Avoid crossing walls • Increasing retraction / reducing temperature can help reducing wisps • I recommend always starting with the lighter colors. Recommendations before and after printing:&nbsp; • Use textured PEI sheet • To make the hole for the USB cable input for the LEDs, you can do it with a soldering iron, drill a hole or you can do it with a slicer by adding a negative model in the place where you want to make the hole • For the pieces to give more light, I recommend using aluminum tape on the inside of the back cover • Be careful to clean the table well&nbsp;Materials and tools used to assemble parts:&nbsp; • Aluminum Tape for the back cover • Hot glue pistol to place in the spacing of the LEDs so they don't come off • Soldering iron to make the hole for the USB cable and/or to solder the LEDs with the USB cable with ON/OFF switch • White or RGB LEDs&nbsp;To find out the list of all the components I use, you can click on the link in my description, and you will find it in the first post!

Stitch Lightbox LED Lamp

Code Name Jessica

I'm currently in the midst of an exhilarating 3D printing journey, crafting a dazzling LGBTQIA sign that will soon grace my space. As my BLV Riser and an array of other projects take shape, this vibrant symbol of inclusion and love is next in line. My creative palette boasts a spectrum of colors, and I can't wait to transform them into a mesmerizing display of pride.&nbsp;Stay tuned for the grand reveal! Once the sign adorns my wall, I'll capture its radiance and share a visual feast with you through a series of captivating photographs. And, of course, I've added a playful touch to this moment – when the sign is up, I invite everyone to join in the celebration by raising their hand high above their head, snapping their fingers with flair, and joyfully exclaiming 'GAAAAAYYYYYYY.' Let's spread the message of love and acceptance far and wide! Share the love, and photos with Ronny, he should still be in Florida.&nbsp;UPDATE: I have now been able to print it, the photos are the actual sign. When I printed this, I decided to add more, I am still creating each one, but there will be: Lesbian: A woman who is romantically and/or sexually attracted to other women.Gay: Typically used to refer to men who are romantically and/or sexually attracted to other men but can also be used more broadly to describe same-sex attraction regardless of gender.Bisexual: Someone who is romantically and/or sexually attracted to people of both their own gender and other genders.Trans: Short for transgender, which refers to individuals whose gender identity differs from the sex assigned to them at birth.Ace: Short for asexual, someone who experiences little to no sexual attraction to others.Achillean: A term sometimes used to describe someone who is attracted to men or masculinity.Agender: A person who identifies as having no gender or as gender neutral.Alterous: A type of attraction that falls outside the romantic and platonic binary, often described as a form of affection that is not easily categorized.Androphilia: An attraction primarily to men or masculinity, often used as the counterpart to "gynephilia."Aporace: A term that may refer to someone who does not experience romantic attraction or does not fit into conventional romantic categories.Apothsexual: A term that may describe someone who experiences sexual attraction only in specific circumstances or under certain conditions.Aromantic: Someone who experiences little to no romantic attraction to others.Bear: A subculture within the gay community characterized by larger, hairier individuals who often embrace their body hair and masculinity.Bigender: Someone who identifies as having two distinct gender identities, either simultaneously or at separate times.Cetero: Short for Ceterosexual which is individuals who are primarily attracted to non-binary individuals or those who do not conform to traditional gender categoriesDemiboy: Someone who partially identifies as a boy or man, but not entirely.Demigender: A term used to describe someone whose gender identity is partially, but not entirely, connected to a specific gender.Demigirl: Someone who partially identifies as a girl or woman, but not entirely.Gay Man: A man who is romantically and/or sexually attracted to other men.Genderfluid: Someone whose gender identity shifts and may not remain fixed.Genderflux: A gender identity that is fluid but fluctuates in intensity.Genderqueer: A broad term for individuals whose gender identity does not conform to traditional binary notions of gender.Greygender: A gender identity that falls somewhere between being exclusively male or female.Greyromantic: Experiencing romantic attraction infrequently or with low intensity.Greysexual: Experiencing sexual attraction infrequently or with low intensity.Gynephilia: An attraction primarily to women or femininity.Intergender: A gender identity that incorporates aspects of multiple genders.Intersex: Refers to individuals who are born with physical or genetic variations that do not fit typical definitions of male or female.Maverique: A gender identity that is independent and unique, often not easily categorized.MLM: Short for "Men Loving Men," used to describe romantic and/or sexual relationships between men.Neutrois: A gender identity that is neutral or agender.Non-binary: A gender identity that does not fit within the traditional binary concept of male or female.Omnisexual: A term used to describe sexual attraction to people of all genders.Pangender: A gender identity that encompasses all genders.Pansexual: Someone who is romantically and/or sexually attracted to people regardless of their gender.Polyamorous: The practice of engaging in romantic or sexual relationships with multiple partners with the knowledge and consent of all involved.Polygender: Identifying with multiple genders simultaneously or at different times.Polysexual: A term sometimes used interchangeably with pansexual, referring to attraction to multiple genders.Sapphic: Often used to describe women who are romantically and/or sexually attracted to other women.Trigender: Someone who identifies with three distinct genders.Two Spirit: A term used by some Indigenous cultures in North America to describe individuals who embody both masculine and feminine qualities and may have unique spiritual roles.

Really, Really Gay

squinn

Rest your book or tablet on this convenient stand, allowing you to keep your hands free while cooking, working, or studying. This is a completely print-in-place design, with the exception of the two small articulating arms which are designed with a bit of flex in them so that they can be snapped in post-print.&nbsp;The model is designed to fold flat, so that it can be easily transported in a bag or slid into a space on a shelf. When opened up it then offers a few different adjustable angles that it can hold a book or tablet at, or you can extend the support arm past the notches for a low angle viewing mode. The arms then have some intentional slotting built into the pivot joints so that they can be optionally used to loosely lock into place at various positions to help hold the pages of a book.&nbsp;In addition to the standard model (which is shown in most of the pictures), there are also versions that include three different sized plaques just above the center area. These allow you to conveniently customize your stand with text in the slicer, such as in the following picture:&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/user/3485677045/draft/2023-09-26_9e6f95ee3afd2.jpeg"></figure>

Foldable Book or Tablet Stand

stands

Frikarte3D

NEW VERSION HERE: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/643389-umbrella-corporation-tool-box-multicolor-and-multi" rel="nofollow noopener">Umbrella Corporation Tool Box V2</a> (Recommended)&nbsp;Umbrella Corporation is a fictional pharmaceutical company that secretly created bioweapons and zombies. The Umbrella logo is featured on the top of the box, which can be printed in different filaments to enhance its look.The base and the latches are the original parts from the Tool box parametric model. The box also contains two vials: one with the T-virus and one with the antidote. These vials are from the <a target="_blank" href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1297430" rel="nofollow noopener">Vial (v2) de &#34;G-Virus&#34; y &#34;T-Virus&#34; (Resident Evil) (Actualizado)</a> model by <a target="_blank" href="https://www.thingiverse.com/Rammaukin" rel="nofollow noopener">Rammaukin</a>.This is a fun and spooky way to store your tools and show your love for Resident Evil!&nbsp;The Umbrella Corporation Box is compatible with all the <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/217203#profileId-236238" rel="nofollow noopener">Tool Box Bases with Compartments</a> models I designed, such as the ones with 2, 3, 4, 6, 9, 18 or 36 compartments. You can swap the base to create your own customized box with different sizes and layouts. It will also be compatible with the future bases that I will design.&nbsp;If you want to avoid items shifting between compartments during transit and also optimizes the available 5L space beneath the toolbox lid you can print my <a target="_blank" href="https://than.gs/c/13653?affiliateCode=Frikarte3d" rel="nofollow noopener">Tool Box Trays</a>.&nbsp;This is a REMIX and is protected by the Copyright Law. By downloading, YOU HAVE NO RIGHT to sell any digital files or print models of my designs without original designer explicit written consent.&nbsp;To sell them legally, message the designer.&nbsp;Hope you like it! Any advice, or recommendation is welcome! Happy Printing!&nbsp;I would be very grateful if you print it and put it on social networks to tag me at <a target="_blank" href="https://www.instagram.com/frikarte3d/" rel="nofollow noopener">@Frikarte3D</a>

Umbrella Corporation Tool Box V1

cool

Filar3D

A super cool and Stylish case with a 3D printed Sliding mechanism. I use it for sunglasses, but it can be used for anything.&nbsp;Does not need supports.

Fully 3D Printed All purpose Sliding Lid Case

Organizers

chameko小廢物電波塔

<blockquote>12/06 After many tests, I successfully found out the cause of the assembly problems reported by some users, and modified the side panel file "AMS Dry Box-SW_v2".NOTE!I Designed this model not only for ams, I also used it in the vacuum bag that holds the filament, so I needed tight tolerances to make the box strong enough. The tolerance is 0.3mm, please be sure to confirm before printing this model.</blockquote>Open the side lid and pour about 60g of silica.<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/306465/2023-12-25_92a6870d48198.jpeg">&nbsp;There is a buckle design on the top, please make sure it is buckled correctly when installing.<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/306465/2023-12-25_2f71bc9cf33e9.png">&nbsp;&nbsp;The front and back of the V2 version have relaxed tolerances in most areas, making it easier to install. I kept the last small area because without this part, you might get the box and slide it open like in the second picture, resulting in a mess.Please be careful not to install it in the wrong direction when installing.<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/306465/2023-12-25_fcf2db2bab532.jpg"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/306465/2023-12-25_210d78c4699ec.jpeg">&nbsp;If you have trouble assembling them, try using a heavy object to knock them into the correct position.<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/306465/2023-12-25_e0f13f6121362.jpeg">&nbsp;As for why I used this complex design, it was because I considered that he had to withstand several kilograms of impact from the filament, so I wanted to distribute the force as equally as possible to each part.<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/306465/2023-12-25_90a605e9c843e.png"> <blockquote>Also I have a beautiful model related to AMS! Don’t miss it!</blockquote><figure class="image image_resized image-style-side" style="width:56.75%;"><a href="https://makerworld.com/zh/models/99476#profileId-106044" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/306465/2023-12-23_3d850a0169288.jpg"></a></figure>Do you always find the AMS feeder difficult to press? Are the models on the Internet very difficult to install? I have improved and carefully designed this model. Please be sure to try it!(click on the image to go to the page!)&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<blockquote>----------中文解說----------</blockquote>打開側蓋後約可倒入60g的乾燥劑. 上方具有卡扣設計,安裝時請確認有正確的扣上.&nbsp;V2版本的正面與背面放開了大部分區域的公差,使其較容易安裝. 我保留了最後一小區域,因為沒有這個部分的話,你可能再拿取盒子時像第二張圖一樣滑開,導致一團糟. 安裝時請注意不要裝錯方向.&nbsp;如果你在組裝上遇到了困難,可以嘗試使用重物敲擊他們使其安裝至正確的位置. 至於為什麼使用這種複雜的設計,是因為我考慮到他必須承受數公斤來自線材的撞擊,因此我想盡可能地讓力量平均分攤到每個部分.

AMS Silica Gel Box[V2]

<h2 style="text-align: center">Bambu Labs 6 Piece Tool Set</h2><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/478965#profileId-390252" rel="nofollow noopener">NEW LABELED Version now available HERE!</a><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/478965#profileId-390252" rel="nofollow noopener"><img class="image_resized" style="width: 33.01%" src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000014462/design/2024-05-30_cafe0726686af.png"></a><figure class="table" style="width: 100%"><table class="ck-table-resized" style="background-color: hsl(90, 75%, 60%); border: 4px groove hsl(120, 75%, 60%)"><colgroup><col></colgroup><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center">Don&#39;t forget to Follow! Thank you so much for your Downloads, Like and BOOSTS!</td></tr></tbody></table></figure><figure class="table"><table style="border: 2px solid hsl(0, 0%, 60%)"><tbody><tr><td>Included Tools:<ul><li>AMS Power Cable Disconnect - Pushes the hidden clip that is facing printer on the AMS Buffer &amp; Hub.</li><li>AMS HUB PTFE Disconnect - Remove PTFE tube from the Bambu Lab AMS Hub (Smaller than Buffer)</li><li>AMS BUFFER PTFE Disconnect - Remove PTFE tube from the Bambu Lab AMS Buffer (Larger than Hub)</li><li>Buffer Outlet Fork - Fits between spring (through the slot, no need to remove buffer/hub) and slide/push on the PTFE coupler in the AMS Buffer/Hub. Also works great for PTFE removal on hotend and AMS.</li><li>2x Hotend Wire Disconnects - If you need a helping hand removing the Bambu Hotend/Nozzle Connectors.</li></ul></td></tr></tbody></table></figure>&nbsp;If you want to up your cool game, use 6x3mm Magnets. Pay close attention to the magnets polarity (all bottoms face same direction/polarity). They&#39;re designed to fit magnets snugly, but you might need a little glue for some of them.<h3>NEW TOOL SET HOLDER: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/105024#profileId-112080" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/105024#profileId-112080</a></h3><figure class="table"><table style="border: 2px dashed hsl(0, 0%, 90%)"><tbody><tr><td>Example usage:<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000014462/design/bda22def-b638-4952-8963-d468f39e906e.webp"></td></tr></tbody></table></figure>&nbsp;<h3>Checkout some of my other models…</h3><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/478965#profileId-390252" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/478965#profileId-390252</a><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/478965#profileId-390252" rel="nofollow noopener"><img class="image_resized" style="width: 52.2%" src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000014462/design/2024-06-03_450eebd518686.png"></a><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/472091#profileId-381848" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/472091#profileId-381848</a><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/472091#profileId-381848" rel="nofollow noopener"><img class="image_resized" style="width: 52.84%" src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000014462/design/2024-05-30_20146411d27.png"></a><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/105024#profileId-112080" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/105024#profileId-112080</a><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/105024#profileId-112080" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000014462/design/2024-05-30_853680d87f4e1.png"></a>&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/81622#profileId-86911" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/81622#profileId-86911</a><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/81622#profileId-86911" rel="nofollow noopener"><img class="image_resized" style="width: 52.89%" src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000014462/design/2024-01-25_2082d4a4681bf.png"></a><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/131156#profileId-142275" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/131156#profileId-142275</a><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/131156#profileId-142275" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000014462/design/2024-06-03_f618df312f7da.png"></a><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/152636#profileId-166673" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/152636#profileId-166673</a><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/152636#profileId-166673" rel="nofollow noopener"><img class="image_resized" style="width: 52.7%" src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000014462/design/2024-01-25_de1a3154efbf3.png"></a>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;This original disconnection tool inspired an entire line: https://www.printables.com/model/382058-bambu-ams-disconnect-tool

Bambu Tools - Bambu Lab Tool Set -Disconnect Tools

BambuTools

Plastic3D

This is a Self Watering PlanterIt consists in a base+ a planter with cuts where it can draw water from the box below.&nbsp;Minimum 10 % infill&nbsp;This provides you acces to the files and the right for PERSONAL USE. If you'd like to become an authorized seller for Plastic 3D's Models we invite you to subscribe to our Merchant Patreon Tier. <a target="_blank" href="https://www.patreon.com/plastic3d" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.patreon.com/plastic3d</a> This Grants you Commercial Rights usage as long as your Patreon Subscription is active.

SELF WATERING PLANTER

Plants

ruimach

<div><h1>Summary</h1><div>As usual with 3D printing, when there is a problem we fixit with our trusted 3D Printer. In this case my father broke a glasses case, but fortunately the glasses didn't broke, only the case.So I decided to design my own case and print it just in time to Christmas.I decided to make a different design to minimize the potential for scratching the lens of the glasses in the case, so I made a "vertical" design. With this design the contact point is the frame of the glasses and I hope, not the lens. I had limited testing with the glasses I own, so take this with a grain of salt and test it yourself to make sure it works. Also consider this a work in progress where, based on feedback, I can improve the design to accomplish the design goals, in a more universal way.Also take notice in the dimension of the box and your glasses size. The box currently can hold 14 cm wide glasses and 5cm tall. If you have bigger glasses maybe scaling would be a possibility, but I haven't tested this. Let me know if you want a bigger case, I can redesign it to make it bigger to fit your glasses.A final word for the hinges: I used a paper clip and glued in place. This makes the hinges strong and smaller than a 100% printed solution. You can also use a filament instead of a clip, since the hole size should allow a 1.75mm filament (I haven't tested this, no idea if its strong enough).Happy printing and enjoy! Waiting for you feedback also :)</div><h1>Print Settings</h1>Printer Brand: <div>Prusa</div> <pre><code> Printer: <div>I3 MK3S</div></code></pre> Rafts: <div>No</div> <pre><code> Supports: <div>No</div></code></pre> Resolution: <div>.2</div> <pre><code> Infill: <div>15</div></code></pre> Filament: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&field-keywords=Any+PLA" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"> Any PLA </a><pre><code> Any</code></pre></div>

Glasses Case

fashion

Wiz_78

A case for a Raspberry Pi 4 + SSD drive inspired by the classic Amiga 4000 look.&nbsp;To get the led and the switch working in Raspbian, you need to change /boot/config.txt adding the following lines:&nbsp;# HD led dtoverlay=gpio-led,gpio=8,label=hdled,trigger=mmc1 # power indicator gpio=4=op,dh # start a system shutdown when the button is pressed dtoverlay=gpio-shutdown&nbsp;Connect the LEDs and the switch to the above mentioned GPIO pins.&nbsp;BoM:<ul><li>5 M3 screws (4 for the SSD, one to block the top part of the case)</li><li>4 M2.5 screws for the Pi (unless you prefer to use my “pi blocker”)</li><li>4 6x3 magnets for the front plate</li><li>1 green 5mm LED</li><li>1 yellow 5mm LED</li><li>2 330Ω resistors</li><li>1 6x6mm tactile switch</li><li>some wires</li></ul>

πMiga - Raspberry Pi 4 case

hYPERfOCUS

This is a knock box for espresso machines, to remove the coffee grinds from the basket. I've included a puck splitter in the design to help get the puck out quickly.&nbsp;The knock bar needs to be printed with a fair amount of PLA so it's strong enough. But it's definitely strong enough. I used guerilla glue to join the two parts. &nbsp;It's a good size, not too big, not too small, and allows for quick and easy coffee puck removal. &nbsp;For all the coffee heads out there, this coffee knock box is missing from your setup.

Coffee Knock Box - Espresso Machine Basket Knock Box with Puck Splitter

Coffee

Replica4292

Collection of double hook item hangers for Honeycomb storage wall. Example items you can hang:<ul><li>Scissors</li><li>Pliers</li><li>Large Screwdrivers</li><li>Filament Vacuum Pump</li><li>Hammer</li><li>Torch Lighter</li></ul>In the stl filenames the first number corresponds to the height of the hook tip, the second number to the item width and the third number to the item depth. So e.g. 'Hanger_H045mm_W010mm_D030mm' has 45mm high hooks and can hold items up to 10mm width and 30 mm depth.&nbsp;Additionally, I have provided the Fusion 360 files in case someone needs a specific size.&nbsp;All files print without supports in the given orientation.&nbsp;

Double Hook Hanger Collection for Honeycomb Wall | HSW

Shelf Organizers

select2start Print

Gridfinity Base | Skelet | 5x4 | select2stertPrint

Gridfinity

Colonel John

This is a remix of Yanev and Coffey72 Tool boxes respectively.The Lid is Embossed and AMS compatible.This Tool box is Parametric so it can be resized in Fussion.&nbsp;You will need 6ea. 3*30mm screws.

Bambu labs Parametric Tool Box X1C P1P P1S

Tools

cwills75

This Makerworld upload is a collection of a variety of spool parts, primarily to be used with Bambu Lab printers, although as I have tried to make them as universal as possible, they should also work with most other printers if needed. I had the original design on Printables, but I have now taken that down, and updated it with this. Originally, the purpose of this was to design an empty spool system that can be filled with weights and/or desiccant beads to be used in the Bambu AMS. Now that the A1 Mini and the AMS Lite has been launched, the previous spool design does not fit on the AMS lite, so I've done a complete re-do, with many improvements over the prior design.&nbsp;Like the rest of you, I do not want to be re-spooling filament, and in a perfect world, all spools from various manufacturers would work properly on both the AMS and the AMS Lite, but that is not the case. Anyone who has used the original AMS knows how picky it can be with spools. Some manufacturer's spools don't roll very well in the AMS with not having enough surface area on the roller spool lips for the AMS rollers to grip onto. Another common problem is when your filament is nearing the end, the weight of the spool is too low, causing the spool to hop around or not retract/feed inside of the AMS. Some spools are too wide, some are too short or too tall. There are multiple fixes available besides this to alleviate some of these problems such as spool ring adapters, using electrical tape on the spool lips, weighted inserts for the spools, the Hydra mod, but I wanted a more complete solution that lets me use any filament I want, re-spooling as minimally as possible, without voiding my AMS warranty. This is what I came up with to alleviate all of my issues to have piece of mind when printing out of the AMS.&nbsp;The AMS Lite is a much better design in regards to spool compatibility, as it grips from the inside of the spool, instead of relying on rollers, but all spools still do not fit on it, and if you have both an AMS and AMS Lite, and are swapping spools between them, it's preferable to have something that "just works". What I have been doing is whenever I buy a new roll of filament, if it fits on the AMS Lite without issue, and if it rolls in the AMS, and I can get an inner spool weight inserted into it, I leave it as-is. If it's a cardboard spool, the plastic spool lips are rounded, or the spool's inner hole, or outer diameter will cause a problem with either the AMS or AMS Lite, then I re-spool onto an empty Bambu spool, if I have any lying around, or I print one of these to use. When using my spool weight with a Bambu spool, it fits in the AMS nicely and spins freely. There is an inner wall between AMS slots that keeps the spool weight from falling out, check my uploaded pictures, I've included some showing that.&nbsp;There is nothing wrong with Bambu's spools, other than I don't have dozens of them on-hand whenever I need one, and as they are $11.99 with a lead time to get them to me, printable spools come in handy in a pinch. One advantage my printable spools have over Bambu's is the empty space between the inner ring and where the filament winds onto can be utilized with either desiccant beads and/or weights. Everyone has their own system for keeping filament stored and dry, such as custom humidity controlled cabinets, airtight plastic containers, vacuum sealed bags, etc. I keep all of my spools on filament racks that run around all four walls of my printer room, above all my equipment, which lets me store roughly 200 rolls. I use large ziplock bags when storing spools, and if it's a Bambu or other AMS/Lite compatible spool I'll throw in a container with some desiccant in the bag before sealing. If it's one of my spools, I use the vented design, which has space within it for desiccant beads.&nbsp;I've made a lot of options to try and meet a variety of people's wants/needs in regards to weights and/or desiccant. The solid, non-vented spool can be used empty, just like an empty Bambu spool if desired, or it can be filled with weights to help in the AMS. There is also a vented version with slits on either end to allow airflow to desiccant beads. For inner spools, there are even more options, such as completely solid or vented designs, and some that have chambers, where you can use weights in two chambers and desiccant in two others. This is my preferred design myself. Two chambers filled with weights is plenty of weight even when a spool in the AMS gets very low to keep it from jumping around or giving you the failed to retract error message. The two other chambers filled with desiccant also helps to keep the humidity down in the AMS. I keep these AMS inner spools in the AMS at all times, and then insert them into a roll when needed. This keeps the beads from having to be recharged very often. When they do need to be recharged, I put the entire inner spool in a filament dryer, and when they look good again, put it back in the AMS.&nbsp;To assemble the various parts, heat-set inserts and M3 screws are required. This design uses less of them than my prior design, which helps costs. If you have a single AMS, you only need to print out four inner spools and four inner spool caps, in the design of your choice (solid, vented, split, etc.). Each inner spool uses needs four heat-set inserts and four M3 screws. For the main spool halves, Spool Half B is a common design, and is used for both the solid and vented Spool Half A versions. None of the Spool Half A designs need any inserts, but each Spool Half B requires eight of them, four on each side. Four of them are used with M3 screws to hold the two spool halves together (A+B), and four of them are used to hold on either a spool cap or an inner spool. Use whatever desiccant beads and/or weights you see fit. I like the color changing beads for visual indication of their humidity level, and with my previous design, people were using everything from small rocks to nuts & bolts. With my new design, I've been using small lead balls in my eight AMS inner spools, which are very heavy for their size.You can source your parts from a variety of places, but I'll include the links of the parts I'm using for reference. &nbsp;M3 x 3mm brass inserts https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804661875731.html With brass inserts, there are a ton of different designs, with some that hold better than others. I've had good luck with these.&nbsp;M3 x 6mm socket head screws https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089KR3XHR These are used to hold the different caps/inner spools on.&nbsp;M3 x 14mm socket head screws https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089KQV2WV These are used to hold the two spool halves together.&nbsp;You will also need a soldering iron to press the inserts in, and a dedicated insert soldering iron adapter like this helps: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09ZNSMVZG/" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09ZNSMVZG/</a>&nbsp;If you've never heat-set inserts before it is extremely easy. You can watch some YouTube videos if you like, but basically, you put on the adapter tip, allow your soldering iron to get up to temp, then place the insert (the right side up, it matters with some designs) over the hold. Then use the soldering iron to press it straight into the hole about 90% of the way. Then remove the iron, and use something flat and heat resistant, like a piece of metal (I generally use a metal scraper blade) to press it in the rest of the way. For the four inserts that need to be put recessed down in Spool Half B, I use a spark plug gapper, but if you have anything on-hand that is flat on one side and heat resistant, that would work also.&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-3293D-Metric-Spark-Gauge/dp/B000CODE9S/" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-3293D-Metric-Spark-Gauge/dp/B000CODE9S/</a>&nbsp;The lead weights I'm using for my inner spools are from here:<a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0034ZG9US/?th=1&psc=1" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0034ZG9US/?th=1&psc=1</a>&nbsp;Like I said before, you can use whatever you want, and if you have a local gun shop or diving shop around with re-loading supplies, you might be able to get some lead shot from them cheaper.&nbsp;When deciding what you want to print, start with the inner spools. Decide if you want the solid ones with just weight in the middle, or the completed vented design or the split. I have "Inner Spool AMS Packs" in 3MF format uploaded that have a set of four inner spools and caps in a variety of choices. You can adjust the printing parameters to what you like, but I'd recommend arachne walls over classic as printing the vented designs with classic is a little screwy with the vent fins. You only need to print four inner spools total for each AMS unit you have.&nbsp;If you are using spool refills, Bambu's snap-together spools are going to be your easiest choice, as disassembling/re-assembling mine requires an allen wrench. If you are re-spooling from another roll, decide if you want the solid or vented design, then print the relevant halves and then assemble.&nbsp;I weighed up some of the assembled parts for comparison:&nbsp;Vented Inner Spool, filled with desiccant = 156g (0.34 lbs) Split Inner Spool, filled with desiccant in two chambers, lead shot in the other two chambers = 428g (0.94 lbs) Solid Inner Spool, filled with lead shot = 796g (1.75 lbs)&nbsp;Vented Spool, filled with desiccant (with no inner spool inserted yet) = 250g (0.55 lbs) Solid Spool, filled with lead shot (with no inner spool inserted yet) = 712g (1.56 lbs)&nbsp;So you can see, using both a solid spool and solid inner spool, both filled with lead shot is a total weight of 1508g (3.32 lbs), and that's with no filament on it yet. I personally feel that is total overkill and that much weight is certainly not needed to hold down a spool in an AMS. That's why I'm using vented main spools with split inner spools, which have a combined weight of 678g (1.49 lbs). But you do you, I've uploaded a lot of options so you can pick and choose what you want. You can print these in PLA as long as you aren't going to submit them to high temperatures. If you plan on putting the spools or empty spools in some sort of oven or filament dryer that hits high temps, you might want to print the relevant parts in something with a higher glass transition temp, like PETG. I've printed all of my inner spools in PETG, and most of my outer spools in PLA, but some in higher temp material, depending on what is spooled onto them.&nbsp;

Reusable AMS and AMS Lite Spool System

Filament

papsjundi

This is my second design trying to come up with a solution for the “Jumping Spool” issues. I shared my first design “<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/37390#profileId-35773" rel="nofollow noopener">AMS SPOOL GUARD”</a>, but after that… I tried to document and learn a bit more to understand why do the spools jumps in the first place. I shared some slow-mo video on facebook groups and got so many feedbacks (and mockings) I think understanding the cause would help come up with a better solutions… I think up to 3 things contributes to the spool jumps 1. When the filaments are low, the angle becomes sharper / steep.. so the extruder makes a more forward pull instead of downward… 2. Extruder speed is faster than the Front Roller, so it was holding it back (plus sharper angle too) 3. Tangled filament so for Tangled filament, it's probably for someone smarter than me to solve lol I am attempting to eliminate or at least reduce cause number 1, which is height differences. First try, I tried to modify the first design, and move the “bar” from the back to the front, using the same mount (which was a nice secure spot mount it) The problem with that idea I don't have a place for the mount for the left and right side of the AMS… <img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/613353/rich_content/e37c8aab-0f0a-44d0-b74a-ccb176d3b0da/screenshot-2023-10-13-at-21225-pm.png#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%226533e8de-8244-4d91-8f45-3027d0872bba%22%2C%22w%22%3A2424%2C%22h%22%3A1488%7D">&nbsp;I also tried the suggestion using the AMS Button + a longer PTFE attached This helped to reduce the wear and tear but it the ptfe tube is so flexible so it will still bend and the spool jumps too. Some one also suggested putting a battery to wedge the spool so it does not wobble, I tried that too (using the same mount as my previous design) with removable “wedges” of various thickness <img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/613353/rich_content/698daa02-f726-48fd-9823-36b783c63904/ptfe.png#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%22f9afdcae-21e2-4bfe-9860-de866fae6acc%22%2C%22w%22%3A2275%2C%22h%22%3A1812%7D"> So instead I looked at the possibility of mounting it on the First Stage Feeder, so I took my spare one and measured the openings… <figure class="image image_resized image-style-align-left" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/613353/rich_content/d227a3ad-e665-4d91-a4c0-1c112fbb242f/img_5562.jpg#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%222fa0137b-b5e8-45ba-a9bb-89d9003968fa%22%2C%22w%22%3A4032%2C%22h%22%3A2268%7D"></figure>&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized image-style-align-center" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/613353/rich_content/63fb7587-98e4-45af-b4a7-6221035b0033/screenshot-2023-10-12-at-84758-pm.png#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%22a9663804-c66c-4afc-b38a-89c9d5f7001e%22%2C%22w%22%3A2152%2C%22h%22%3A1550%7D"></figure>Went through several iterations until I come up with the latest one. No… it was NOT modelled after the Iron Throne :) <figure class="image image_resized image-style-align-left" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/613353/rich_content/dcc3e938-d22a-416d-80d5-6ffd34569ae0/img_5563heic.jpg#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%22a9574cb1-cbdb-4c55-a05d-9f098a0b067c%22%2C%22w%22%3A3024%2C%22h%22%3A4032%7D"></figure>1 issue I found that, the filament will scar the Helper… This is just after 1 print… &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;So I added a 4x25mm SS rod on top, you can get them on <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08M33CNS6?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1" rel="nofollow noopener">amazon</a> it should sit flush in the cavity provided. <img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/613353/rich_content/384ce9b8-e3f2-46a5-badf-d8dc2bee9a55/amshelper150.png#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%222f61f194-6b24-4b8c-b906-f8761571eeaa%22%2C%22w%22%3A1920%2C%22h%22%3A1080%7D">&nbsp;and here's the finished project… at least for now…<img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/613353/rich_content/bcfa4439-d640-4844-8efc-bf0ef2d0c409/img_5565.jpg#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%22dc375791-2af7-4e2b-b3c1-95ac90104a51%22%2C%22w%22%3A5712%2C%22h%22%3A4284%7D"> This is by no means it will fix all… but at least it “should” make the angle less steep… and the filament will go more straight down to the first stage feeder. I am still studying but at least this is for now one solution that might reduce the issues… I would love you to try and give me feedback… I included the 3MF for Bambu Studio, comes in 2 plates… if you want to use the <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08M33CNS6?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1" rel="nofollow noopener">metal rod</a> and logo, you can print plate 1, if you don't then you can print Plate 2. 0.3 mm first layer , the rest 0.2 mm Layers - Adaptive Layer Gyroid infill at 30% to make it stiffer. Step files are also uploaded if you like to tinker / remix… please do. Any suggestion / comments please hit the reply :) <img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/613353/rich_content/b976f4ef-df35-4284-b3e9-64baceb676eb/build-plate.png#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%22dd3f7935-07e1-4c02-8237-642bb1697be8%22%2C%22w%22%3A2462%2C%22h%22%3A1318%7D"> Thank You! NOTE: this was designed for the original AMS, I have not tested with Hydra Mods… &nbsp;&nbsp;