jimbrown

holger.pandel

<p>Wind your yarn skeins to a cone for knitting.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>This winder comes in two main versions: manual and motorized, see description and STL folder structure for further details. <br><br>(Due to continuous design upgrades, I will not replace every picture posted to reflect all the changes made, but add additional pictures, so that you can judge yourself what has been changed.)</p><ul><li><i>Notable changes, mostly improved through kind maker's comments:</i><br><br><i>29.01.2024</i><br><i>- added two more screws for the lid, improves stability and makes winding a bit more quiet</i><br><i>- added a 45mm clamp screw</i><br><i>- added new lubrication attachment, for use with large Brother paraffin rings</i><br><br><i>05.02.2024</i><br><i>- added different size lubrication attachment, for use with small Brother paraffin rings</i></li></ul><h3><i><strong>The choice is up to you…</strong></i></h3><p><i><strong>Choosing the main version</strong></i></p><p>You can choose between a motorized and a manual version. The STL folder names reflect the parts to print.</p><p><i><strong>Choosing a cone variant</strong></i></p><p>If you don't have any cones yet available, you can choose between my own cone variant or between a Royal/Empisal/Knitmaster compatible cone. Print both corresponding parts, obviously you only need the holder once, print as many cones as you like.<br><br>If you already have Royal-compatible cones, you only need the corresponding holder.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p><i>Hints regarding the (optional) Quickchange version:</i><br><i>As I often have to change the cones during modeling, I developed a quickchange mechanism, so that I don't have to unscrew everything to change the cone type I want to use. You print the mount only once and also every holder only once. Then you can simply slide the holder you want onto the mount and use the corresponding cone. I think, for most people it is not relevant as they will use only one type of cone, so it is more a developer kind of feature, but I thought it might be interesting for people who want to remix the cone holder and don't want to mess with screwing/unscrewing everthing only for testing purposes.</i></p><h3><i><strong>Print settings</strong></i></h3><p>Print all parts once, only those marked (x2) two times :-). See STL file name comments in brackets for versions or additional information.</p><ul><li>0.16 layer height</li><li>grooved drum: 4 walls</li><li>fork arm: 4 walls, 35% infill</li><li>clamp: 4 walls, 45% infill</li><li>all other parts: 2 walls, 15% infill</li></ul><p>Choose a clamp and screw combination that fits your table best.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Tree support (!) only for obvious parts. Use manual supports for the spring-like yarn guide on the drum fork for easy removal.</p><p><i>If the yarn cone slips too easily over the holder and does not really stop by friction, adjust your print settings (slightly reduce XY size of cone), or simply use a bit of tape on the inside of the cone to narrow it a bit.</i></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p><strong>See 3mf file and plate names for details.</strong></p><h4><i><strong>Regarding printing the grooved drum</strong></i></h4><p>Your printer has to be dialed in rather well regarding tree supports - it will be nearly impossible to print with normal supports. See pictures for details. It is absolutely important that you orient the drum as shown to minimize support and to get the best surface quality.<br><br>You can imagine, the more support artifacts you have, the more you have to sand later on, the surfaces have to be really smooth so that the yarn can slip easily.</p><p>After removing the support (you can see, it is possible to remove the support all at once), check the surfaces for artifacts and sand accordingly. It is really helpful to have a deburring tool for 3D prints (like these: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/s?k=deburring+tool+3d+printing" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/s?k=deburring+tool+3d+printing</a>)</p><h3><i><strong>Additional parts</strong></i></h3><p><i>Parts needed for both versions:</i><br><i>(as some parts are needed in different amounts, see parenthesis for further details)</i></p><ul><li>M6 rod 147 mm (grooved drum fork shaft)</li><li>M6 rod 66 mm (winding shaft)</li><li>M6 rod 20mm (connection between upper and lower grooved drum cap, loose fit)</li><li>M6 nyloc hex nuts (manual 4x, motorized 3x)</li><li>M6 normal hex nuts (manual 2x, motorized 1x)<br>- lock big gear in place (only in manual version)<br>- top of fork shaft (so you can hand-adjust how tight or loose the drum fork can move)</li><li>M3 screws 6mm (manual 4x, motorized 11x)</li><li>M3 screws 20mm (2x, fork arm)</li><li>M3 screw 35mm (1x, yarn tensioner)</li><li>M3 hex nuts (2x, fork arm inside housing)</li><li>Skateboard bearing 608-2RS (3x)</li><li>short rubber band (for grooved drum)</li><li>long rubber band (as drum fork spring, not too strong!)</li></ul><p><i>Only for manual version:</i></p><ul><li>M6 rod 140 mm (drive shaft)<br>flatten ends 10mm (crank handle side) and 15mm (gear side) wide, see picture</li><li>M4 screw 35 mm (1x)</li><li>M4 hex nuts (2x)</li></ul><p><i>Only for motorized version:</i></p><ul><li>12V 550 RPM DC motor (<a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/Greartisan-Electric-Reduction-Centric-Diameter/dp/B072R5G5GR" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/Greartisan-Electric-Reduction-Centric-Diameter/dp/B072R5G5GR</a>)</li><li>12V DC speed controller (<a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/CenryKay-Controller-Adjustable-Reversible-Switch%EF%BC%882PCS/dp/B09TGZ5MRN" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/CenryKay-Controller-Adjustable-Reversible-Switch（2PCS/dp/B09TGZ5MRN</a>)</li><li>12V DC power socket, choose what fits best for you (i.e. <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/MEETOOT-5-5mm-Female-Socket-Electrical/dp/B09JP19XKP" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/MEETOOT-5-5mm-Female-Socket-Electrical/dp/B09JP19XKP</a>)</li></ul><h3><i><strong>Assembly</strong></i></h3><p>Instead of a long assembly essay ;-), see pictures for details, I think you will not get into any further problems / see last pictures on how to fit the components for motorization. I will not get into any details here on how to wire everything up. Google will help you in case ;-)</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p><strong>But wait, there is one more thing… :</strong></p><ul><li>By widening the upper hole in the bottom part of the housing where the fork arm is attached, you can slightly tilt the groove drum assembly towards the cone. This may lead to a more even wound cone - experiment with it.</li></ul><h3><i><strong>Optional attachments</strong></i></h3><ul><li>Yarn lubrication attachement<br><span style="background-color:rgb(255,255,255);color:rgb(42,42,42);font-size:16px;">If you want to wax your yarn during winding, so that it is prepared better for machine knitting, you can use this optional attachement. Simply place some kind of appropriate lubricant (ie. tea light or Brother paraffin ring) into the appropriate holder. If you use a candle, prepare it so that the yarn can slide easily over it. See picture of my setup for reference.</span><br> </li><li>Yarn counter holder<br>If you want to attach a yarn counter (aka <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/s?k=fishing+line+counter" rel="nofollow noopener">fishing line counter</a>) to measure the amount of yarn wound, use this attachment.</li></ul><p>The attachments can be used independently from each other or together.</p><h3><i><strong>Hints regarding usage</strong></i></h3><p><i>With the new yarn tensioner you are able to fine tune the winding process in case your yarn does not wind correctly. See picture on how to feed the yarn through the tensioner.</i></p><p>You have to play a little bit with the tension of the yarn that is fed into the winder. Too tight, and the yarn is not able to slip correctly, but too loose also isn't the best. You can see in the short video down below, that it is absolutely possible to wind a skein without any problems. As I don't own a swift I cannot say anything about how well the winder will work with it.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p><i><strong>Does it really work?</strong></i><br><i><strong>(I only post a video of motorized version :-), manual is the same, only slower)</strong></i></p><figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://youtu.be/lAbOztfL4bo"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/lAbOztfL4bo" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure><h3><br>I provide the Fusion360 files of both versions. Be kind, I tried to keep the timelines as clean as I could ;-)</h3><p>The grooved drum workes for me. There is definitely room for improvement of the shape, but after a lot of revisions and test prints it works now and I wanted to test different yarns over some time to find out how and where the shape could be further optimized.</p><p><strong>Credits:</strong></p><ul><li>Many thanks to Roel Vanhout for his comments and suggestions on the whole build.</li><li>Thanks to Yasmin Kock for her wonderful Royal-compatible cone model. See <a target="_blank" href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5181557" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5181557</a> for further details.</li></ul><h3><strong>Regarding the license</strong></h3><p><strong>It is not allowed to build and sell this winder commercially, like via Etsy stores, eBay or so. Build one for yourself or a friend, but simply don't make money with it.</strong></p>

Yarn cone winder v2 - manual or motorized

Joanne

LiL_PPJ

pug keychain

Models

thrutheframe

<h3>NOTE:</h3><ul><li>Please read the instruction guide below</li><li>I do my best to double-check and test the print profile I create. They are up to date with whatever changes I made to the designs. If you are using profiles made by others, please check if they are updated.</li></ul><h3>UPDATE: 24 Dec 2023</h3><p>Would like to wish everyone a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year. It has been a week since GRIP was uploaded to MakerWorld for the community. Since then I had some feedback on the retainer clips. I have updated the design to improve layer adhesion and tested it. Would like the thanks those that tried and printed GRIP. Happy printing. </p><p>&nbsp;</p><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000090586/design/2023-12-24_72f6fa29ece5e.png"><figcaption>Old (Left) vs New (Right) </figcaption></figure><h3>UPDATE: 15 Dec 2023</h3><p>I have received several questions regarding the differences between GRIP and <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/92486#profileId-99168" rel="nofollow noopener">Bambu Lab version</a>. While both designs serve the same function, my design approach is based on considerations that I feel are important when designing parts for 3D printing.</p><ul><li><strong>Reliability and Rigidity</strong> -  I opted for screw mounting the GRIP bracket because I take into consideration that metal and plastic behave differently with changes in ambient temperature. Clamping the GRIP using screws to the top gantry greatly reduces the chance of any failure due to parts loosening. </li><li><strong>Ease of Print and Print Orientation</strong> - Proper orientation improves print success and user confidence. I design parts with little or no support. A major weakness of 3D-printed parts is the layer lines. With proper orientation of prints, this weakness can be avoided. For example, the AMS lite swivel bracket is printed at 45 degrees to improve the strength of the swivel and eliminate the use of support. </li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:49.99%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000090586/design/2023-12-15_534012b0bf62c.png"></figure><ul><li><strong>Prudent in filament usage</strong> - good filament is not cheap. I want to be prudent with filament usage but at that same time NOT sacrificing strength and rigidity. It&#39;s a delicate balance and I am happy to say that GRIP has managed to achieve it with a slim profile and a pair of discreet stabilizing feet.</li></ul><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><h3>INTRODUCTION</h3><p>When I placed the A1 combo on my workstation, I realised the setup required a lot of space on my table. So I decided to design a bracket to mount the AMS lite on the A1 frame. As usual, I set a few parameters and requirements when designing this bracket:</p><ul><li>Easy and fast to print with little/no support needed.</li><li>Sturdy and reliable when fully loaded and swivel for easy loading.</li><li>Use existing mounting holes on the AMS lite for mounting.</li><li>Secure mounting using screws.</li><li>A holistic system that will work alongside my <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/91768#profileId-98168" rel="nofollow noopener">A1 PMS (purge management system aka poop bin)</a>.</li></ul><figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:100%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000090586/design/2023-12-12_454c112c17058.png"></figure></td><td><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:100%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000090586/design/2023-12-12_9e06679ae9eb3.png"></figure></td></tr><tr><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000090586/design/2023-12-12_d0a3fac8de1c3.png"></figure></td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000090586/design/2023-12-12_f1057fdb05af8.png"></figure></td></tr></tbody></table></figure><p>Introducing the AMS lite bracket for the A1. It resembles a gymnast hand grabbing and balancing on a bar. I decided to name it <strong>GRIP</strong>. It is mounted onto the 40x20 gantry with a clamp-style bracket and secured with M3 screws. This system allows the AMS to swivel improving the load and unload of filaments. 2 retainer clips are used to secure the AMS during printing. A set of PTFE tube guides (dual-colour print) prevents the tubes from overbending and breaking the filament.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>A set of Stabilization Brackets for the A1 helps reduce the wobbling due to the change in the centre of gravity.</p><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:70.09%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000090586/design/2023-12-12_e63eed49bc5bb.png"></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><h3>BOM</h3><ul><li>Brass inserts M3xOD5mmxL4mm - 9pcs</li><li>SHCS or BHCS M3x10mm - 9pcs</li><li>Thin double-sided tape</li></ul><p>I get my brass insert from <a target="_blank" href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000232858343.html?channel=twinner" rel="nofollow noopener">this store</a> on AliExpress. Please choose M3 X D5.0 X L4.0 </p><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000090586/design/2024-01-06_44af93a85057c.png"></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><h3>PRINT INSTRUCTIONS</h3><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:70.05%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000090586/design/2023-12-12_41cb92fe8c3c9.png"></figure><ol><li>There are 4 build plates to print. Wall perimeters, top and bottom layers are set to 4. This setting helps to produce strong parts.</li><li>I printed my version in <a target="_blank" href="https://store.bambulab.com/products/pla-basic-filament" rel="nofollow noopener">BambuLab Basic PLA</a> Jade white and Black. (not affiliated link)</li><li>Build plates 01&amp; 02 - print according to orientation, if you prefer to have all the same color. You can combine the parts from both plates together and print.</li><li>Build plate 03 - <span style="color:hsl(0,75%,60%);"><strong>IMPORTANT!! DO NOT CHANGE THE ORIENTATION OF THE PRINT</strong></span>. It was designed to print that way to improve structural rigidity during operation.</li><li>Build plate 04 - This is a dual-color print for the PTFE tube guide.</li></ol><p>&nbsp;</p><h3>BUILD INSTRUCTIONS</h3><ul><li>Turn off the power to A1. Unplug the AMS lite. Practice safety habits.</li><li>Use a soldering iron to install all 9 brass heat inserts according to the images seen above.</li><li>Ensure that all inserts are flush to the surface.</li></ul><figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000090586/design/2023-12-12_bb96f4e954a04.png"></figure></td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000090586/design/2023-12-12_5264dcd801345.png"></figure></td></tr></tbody></table></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><ul><li>There is a lip inside the swivel bracket that helps secure itself to the AMS lite, a tap will help align the bracket.</li><li>Install all 4 screws that come with the A1 combo kit. It comes in a pack labelled “For AMS Stand”</li></ul><figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000090586/design/2023-12-12_886968a17e87f.png"></figure></td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000090586/design/2023-12-12_3ac274607a273.png"></figure></td></tr></tbody></table></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><ul><li>Install the GRIP main body to the gantry. Secure with four M3x10mm screws horizontally.</li><li>Insert the AMS bracket and lock it with the clamp using four M3x10mm screws.</li><li>Install the retainer clips on both sides. (Note: Remove clips when swivelling the AMS lite)</li><li>Optional - screw in the last M3x10mm vertically.</li></ul><figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000090586/design/2023-12-12_8df88000560e5.png"></figure></td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000090586/design/2023-12-12_2efe27d7d788.png"></figure></td></tr><tr><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000090586/design/2023-12-12_ac5ce21fc8fb4.png"></figure></td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000090586/design/2023-12-12_851d3609b191c.png"></figure></td></tr></tbody></table></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><ul><li>Install wobble reduction brackets at the back of the printer. The side should flush against the curved surface of the base.</li><li>There is a left and right side. The left side will have a cutout for the printer switch.</li><li>Optionally u can use a bit of thin double-sided tape to secure brackets to the printer.</li></ul><figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000090586/design/2023-12-12_9f7a6576b9fff.jpg"></figure></td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000090586/design/2023-12-12_b9b45ab6f1c2c.jpg"></figure></td></tr></tbody></table></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><ul><li>To check the clearance. Turn on the A1 and do a homing.</li><li>Raise the X gantry to the top level. There should be a clearance between the tool head and the AMS lite with spool installed.</li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:60.03%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000090586/design/2023-12-12_a572654971a6d.jpg"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:60.05%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000090586/design/2023-12-12_2de906d9a422f.jpg"></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><ul><li>Install the PTFE tube guide bracket.</li><li>Home printer so that tool head reaches the bed. This is the maximum distance required by the PTFE tube.</li><li>The longer tubes go to 1&amp;2 and the shorter tubes go to 3&amp;4.</li><li>Turn off your printer, and connect your AMS lite before turning it on again.</li><li>Do a homing and double-check the tubes, cables, etc are not in each other way.</li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:59.98%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000090586/design/2023-12-12_0f0cc9729c151.png"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:60.05%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000090586/design/2023-12-12_9ec18ef2720b1.jpg"></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><h3>CONCLUSION</h3><p>To date, my designs are free to download and use. There is no Patreon or OnlyFan (hahaha). If you like my designs and wish to contribute to my coffee addiction &amp; help fund the filaments and materials needed for prototyping, a donation of $5-$10 to <a target="_blank" href="https://ko-fi.com/thrutheframe" rel="nofollow noopener">Ko-fi</a> or <a target="_blank" href="https://www.paypal.com/paypalme/shannonheng" rel="nofollow noopener">paypal.me</a> will be greatly appreciated.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><h3><strong>CAVEAT</strong></h3><p>As with all my designs, Prototyping and testing were conducted to ensure printability and meet my own expectations. However, I understand it may and may not work for you. I would request that you read all instructions and print and install them at your own discretion.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p>

AMS lite Bracket for A1 - GRIP

Duane777

<p>Various configurations of compartments and an empty one.</p><p>Use a length of filament to complete the hinge.</p><p>Add your own text to the nameplate in the slicer.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p><strong>To edit the text on the nameplate:-</strong></p><p>1. Set 'Global/Objects' to Objects<br>2. Select the text object in the list<br>3. click the text icon on the toolbar<br>4. Edit the text, it will jump and stick out again this is ok.<br>5. Make sure the text object is selected and click the Move toolbar icon.<br>6. Use the axis arrow to move the text in X&Y to your liking.<br>7. Enter <strong>-1.2mm</strong> for the Z position in the move popup dialog, press enter.<br>8. And you done.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>There is a 4 bay rack for these boxes <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/204390#profileId-224562" rel="nofollow noopener">here</a></p>

Small Items Box 175x125x30

Organisers