jan.butz.handy

konrad737

This Joint Case is designed to be as space-efficient as possible while still being strong and easy to print. It has an easy-to-use bayonet locking mechanism.Printed with:0.4 mm Nozzle0.2 mm Layer-HeightPLA or PETGPrint the cap with the opening facing up.Print the tube with the opening facing down.&nbsp;I printed the shorter version without any brim and it worked fine, if you struggle with bed adhesion i recommend to print the tube with a brim especially the loger version.&nbsp;The cap is hollowed out to maximize the space. The cap has an inside diameter of 7.2 mm and the tube has an inside diameter of 10.2 mm.The normal size fits Joints up to 90 mm while the longer one fits up to 110 mm both including the space in the cap.

Joint Case with bayonet lock

nice

JamesThePrinter

*This project requires one 608 bearing*There is a printable spring that adds a slight clicking sound when the carousel is spun. This is recommended, but optional.As with any assembly that prints in multiple pieces and/or uses other components, actual clearances will be dependent on YOUR printer.&nbsp;<figure class="media"><oembed url="https://www.youtube.com/shorts/D3xfdgBf4jE"></oembed></figure>Print SettingsThe Nintendo Switch logo in the middle of the carousel is designed to give you two options:<ul><li>If you have an AMS, MMU or similar product, the logo can be easily painted in the slicer</li><li>If you do not paint it in the slicer, the logo will not appear at all</li></ul>&nbsp;Assembly Instructions<ol><li>Insert a 608 bearing into the center of the base</li><li>If you are using a spring, use a very small amount of glue to secure it into the hole as shown below</li><li>Place the carousel on top of the base, ensuring that the gear tip drops into the center of the bearing</li></ol><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000014299/design/2023-09-12_pikoqdkmfdj3.png"></figure> <a target="_blank" href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/JamesThePrinter" rel="nofollow noopener">Buy Me A Coffee</a>&nbsp;The filaments used in the pictures above:<ul><li>Bambu Lab Red Matte Scarlet Red PLA</li><li>Bambu Lab Matte Charcoal PLA</li><li>Bambu Lab Matte Ivory White PLA</li></ul>

Nintendo Switch Game Carousel

noch Herzustellen

KYZ Design

<h3>Bees may have bestagons but humans still build rectangular walls. So here are the rectangular frame pieces!</h3>There are framed pieces for a few different sizes:<ul><li>The 12x9 System - recommended for X1 and P1 series printers - the middle pieces are 12 cells wide by 9 cells high. This makes the biggest pieces per print on a 256x256 bed with a filament cutter exclusion area (i.e. on a P1P/P1S/X1C without physically blocking out the filament cutter). The middle piece can be found <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/16011" rel="nofollow noopener">here</a> and I also included this in the print profiles as it is my model (it's one of the first things I modelled and shared after getting my P1P!).</li></ul>&nbsp;<ul><li>The 12x10 System - recommended for the A1 - the middle pieces are 12 cells wide by 10 cells high. This makes the biggest pieces per print on a 256x256 bed without an exclusion area (i.e. on an A1 or a <a target="_blank" href="https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/knowledge-sharing/print-volume-limitations" rel="nofollow noopener">tweaked</a> P1P/P1S/X1C). The middle piece can be found <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/16011" rel="nofollow noopener">here</a> and I also included this in the print profiles as it is my model.</li></ul>&nbsp;<ul><li>The 8x7 system - recommended for the A1 Mini - the middle pieces are 8 cells wide by 7 cells high. These are designed to maximise the 180x180 bed of the Prusa Mini, and consequently will also maximise the bed of the A1 mini. The middle piece for this system can also be found <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/22521" rel="nofollow noopener">here</a>, uploaded by the OG creator, rostap. I did not include the middle piece here as rostap has modelled it first and uploaded it to his page.</li></ul>&nbsp;<ul><li>The 10x10 system - the middle pieces are 10 cells wide by 10 cells high. These also fit on a 256x256 bed. This makes panels that have a more rectangular aspect ratio and less cells but you may have already started printing these. These may also better fit your wall space that you are trying to fill up due to the slightly different dimensions. The middle piece can be found <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/22521" rel="nofollow noopener">here</a>, uploaded by the OG creator. I did not include the middle piece here as rostap has modelled it first and uploaded it to his page.</li></ul>&nbsp;<ul><li>The 10x8 system - the middle pieces are 10 cells wide by 8 cells high. These max out a 220x220 bed (Ender 3 and Similar). The middle piece can be found <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/22521" rel="nofollow noopener">here</a>, uploaded by the OG creator, rostap. I did not include the middle piece here as rostap has modelled it first and uploaded it to his page.</li></ul>&nbsp;&nbsp;For those of you that want other sizes for other printer beds, remix is allowed! Or leave a request in a comment if you can wait :)&nbsp;If you need HSW help in general, check out the honeycombwall subreddit.&nbsp;<h3>Check out <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/11128021/collections/18964" rel="nofollow noopener">this collection</a> for my other Honeycomb Storage Wall models.</h3><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/594876/2023-12-10_fde779d8f407b.jpg"></figure>

Framed HSW - Various Sizes - Honeycomb Storage Wall

wall attachment

Elliott_

Customizable Hose Adapters with <a target="_blank" href="https://cad.onshape.com/documents/daa108770c30894cd72e531a/w/878fc491a42785d82498cb55/e/064565d4cb42445a2508380c?renderMode=0&uiState=65d98ad388897e5e82505ac5" rel="nofollow noopener">OnShape</a>.

Hose Adapters

Adapters 

PenolopyBulnick

After creating the <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/155363#profileId-170073" rel="nofollow noopener">Cabin Coasters</a> and <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/115764#profileId-124556" rel="nofollow noopener">The Great Wave Off Kanagawa earrings</a>, I felt inspired to make some coasters of fine art pieces (in the public domain). These are 4" square coasters. &nbsp;I thought about ones I liked and ones that were recognizable and decided on:<ul><li>Starry Night by Vincent Van Gogh</li><li>Mona Lisa by Leonardo da Vinci</li><li>The Great Wave off Kanagawa by Hokusai</li><li>The Scream by Edvard Munch</li></ul>Most of the images were just cropped to a square to fit in the coaster size, but Starry Night I ended up also cutting out the moon and shifting it over so it would fit in with the cypress tree on the left. I did some minor edits to help smooth how it fit in with the rest of the painting.&nbsp;After that, I ran them all through HueForge and continued to do minor edits in Photoshop and change up the colors in HueForge over, and over, and over, and over again. The Scream and Mona Lisa were very dark and made it a bit difficult to get them right and honestly I'm not 100% happy with The Scream, but overall, I'm happy with the way the set came out as a whole. They are all made up of 8 or 9 colors so even with a single AMS, you need to baby these and swap out colors to get them printed right. I also made them thicker at the thinnest so they would be sturdy. They are about the same thickness of my other coasters.&nbsp;I decided not to do the curved frame like I did with my other coasters. Instead I generated a frame using Craiyon and then really cropped it down so it was really thin and used that as my border. I decided to make it thin so I didn't make the coasters any larger than they already are and so I didn't cut into the artwork too much. &nbsp;Even though these don't have the rounded corners of my <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/155363#profileId-170073" rel="nofollow noopener">other coasters</a>, they fit into the same coaster holder since I didn't make the fit tight, so you can use that for these if you are interested.&nbsp;<h3>Color Changes:</h3>There are a lot of colors going on, but many repeat between coasters and the frames are all done in the same colors but you can really pick any two browns.<h4>Starry Night:</h4><ul><li>Layers 1 - 13 : Black</li><li>Layers 14 - 15 : Earth Brown (Polymaker PolyTerra Matte)</li><li>Layers 16 - 17 : Navy Blue (Polymaker PolyTerra)</li><li>Layers 18 - 21 : Dark Blue (Inland Egyptian Blue)</li><li>Layers 22 - 23 : Light Blue (Inland)</li><li>Layers 24 - 26 : (Yellowish color) Gold (Matterhacker Build Series)</li><li>Layers 27 - 29 : White</li></ul>Frame Layers:<ul><li>Layers 30 - 31 : Earth Brown (Polymaker PolyTerra Matte)</li><li>Layers 32 - 33 : Wood Brown (Polymaker PolyTerra Matte)</li></ul><h4>The Great Wave Off Kanagawa:</h4><ul><li>Layers 1 - 8 : Black</li><li>Layers 9 - 12 : Navy Blue (Polymaker PolyTerra)</li><li>Layers 13 - 17 : Dark Blue (Inland Egyptian Blue)</li><li>Layers 18 - 19 : Silver (Matterhackers Build Series)</li><li>Layers 20 - 21 : (Yellowish color) Gold (Matterhacker Build Series)</li><li>Layers 22 - 26 : Light Blue (Inland)</li><li>Layers 27 - 29 : White</li></ul>Frame Layers:<ul><li>Layers 30 - 31 : Earth Brown (Polymaker PolyTerra Matte)</li><li>Layers 32 - 33 : Wood Brown (Polymaker PolyTerra Matte)</li></ul><h4>Mona Lisa:</h4><ul><li>Layers 1 - 13 : Black</li><li>Layers 14 - 15 : Earth Brown (Polymaker PolyTerra Matte)</li><li>Layers 16 - 17 : Navy Blue (Polymaker PolyTerra)</li><li>Layers 18 - 20 : Army Green (Polymaker PolyTerra)</li><li>Layers 21 - 24 : Pastel Peanut (Polymaker PolyTerra)</li><li>Layers 25 - 26 : Army Beige (Polymaker PolyTerra)</li><li>Layers 27 - 28 : Bone White (Inland)</li></ul>Frame Layers:<ul><li>Layers 29 - 30 : Earth Brown (Polymaker PolyTerra Matte)</li><li>Layers 31 - 32 : Wood Brown (Polymaker PolyTerra Matte)</li></ul><h4>The Scream:</h4><ul><li>Layers 1 - 10 : Black</li><li>Layers 11 - 14 : Navy Blue (Polymaker PolyTerra)</li><li>Layers 15 - 16 : Army Green (Polymaker PolyTerra)</li><li>Layers 17 - 19 : Iron Red (Paramount)</li><li>Layers 20 - 22 : Earth Brown (Polymaker PolyTerra Matte)</li><li>Layers 23 - 26 : Pastel Peanut (Polymaker PolyTerra)</li><li>Layers 27 - 31 : Army Beige (Polymaker PolyTerra)</li></ul>Frame Layers:<ul><li>Layers 32 - 33 : Earth Brown (Polymaker PolyTerra Matte)</li><li>Layers 34 - 35 : Wood Brown (Polymaker PolyTerra Matte)</li></ul>They all use the same pretty normal settings for for .08mm:<ul><li>.08mm Extra Fine settings were used with .4 Nozzle.</li><li>Ironing was used on ALL top surfaces, but this can be a matter of preference.</li><li>Gyroid infill is used where it is necessary but 100% infill could also be good with how small and thin it is.</li><li>I use a small Prime Tower. Possibly not necessary but helps sometimes.</li></ul>

Fine Art / Classic Art HueForge Coasters

Akelyte

VERSION 2 MODEL UPDATES:<ul><li>Adjusted dimensions and tolerances for an even better fit</li><li>Added more Pattern/Color Options</li><li>Lengthened Clips for better “Snap” Action and Snugness</li><li>Strengthened clips by adding 1mm of extra material</li><li>More Bed Clearance</li></ul>&nbsp;VERSION 2 PROFILE UPDATES:<ul><li>Speed - Slowed down and matched to walls for less visibility of layer lines and speed lines.</li><li>Supports - Adjusted Support Threshold Angle for better support removal and Patterns</li><li>More Patterns/Color Options</li><li>Switched to Gyroid Infill</li><li>Seam Position to Nearest</li></ul>2-1-2024:<ul><li>Added PETG and ABS Profiles</li></ul>&nbsp;Version 1 of the Z-Shield was met with mostly positive feedback and praise; so first off let me say thank you to everyone who downloaded or printed the previous model! I greatly appreciate all feedback and I hope V2 can surpass V1 in every way!To the few people who had fitment issues with V1 - Thanks for speaking up! This community can't grow without honesty and creators being held accountable for any potential design flaws. I always strive to learn and grow as a CAD Designer and Engineer, so any suggestions or feedback is encouraged and appreciated!&nbsp;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------&nbsp;Introducing the Z-Shield Version 2; a superior Z-Axis Cover for Bambu Lab P Series and X Series Printers. I’ve seen countless Z-Axis Covers for the P and X Series that simply sit in the recessed hole for the Z-Axis rod. I was never a fan of these designs, as I don’t want any component of my printer unnecessarily rubbing against plastic every time the bed moves.&nbsp;These can be printed in PLA if chamber temps are kept on the low side, but printing in ASA or ABS would yield better results. I'd appreciate any feedback, comments, or ratings if you liked this model, or would like to see some modifications made!&nbsp;Key Features:<ul><li>Universal Compatibility: The Z-Shield has been meticulously engineered to be compatible with all Bambu Core-XY printers. Whether you own an older P1P or a top-of-the-line X1C, you’ll have no issues with fitment.</li><li>Fast Printing Capability: Efficiency is key in 3D printing, and the Z-Shield stands out in this regard. Printing with supports, most models should take an hour or less to print.</li><li>Camera-Friendly Design: Understanding the importance of the built-in camera in Bambu printers, I’ve added an additional model of the Z-Shield with a recessed corner. This design ensures that the cover remains completely invisible to the onboard camera, allowing for uninterrupted monitoring and recording.</li><li>Non-Contact Protection: The non-contact design ensures there's no friction between the cover and the moving parts of the printer, thus preserving both the cover’s and the printer's integrity.</li><li>Durability and Aesthetics: The Z-Shield not only offers robust protection against environmental factors but also adds a sleek, professional look to your printer.</li><li>Fully Customizable: The Z-Shield comes in 5 different patterns for maximum personalization. Customize colors, add gradients, or use the Bambu Text Tool to add your own text/logos!</li></ul>Printing:&nbsp;Cleaning your bed properly is important when printing the patterned covers. Make sure your bed has been thoroughly cleaned before printing!&nbsp;Installation:&nbsp;NOTE: INSTALL THE CLIP TOWARDS THE REAR OF THE PRINTER FIRST&nbsp;Make sure ALL support material is removed before installing.&nbsp;You should hear an audible click as the Z-Shield seats into position.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:60.04%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/482222/2024-01-24_7b1608fe96c01.gif"></figure>There should be approximately 1.7mm of clearance between your build plate and the Z-Shield on the left side of the printer. Make sure it is fully seated towards the left side of the printer. The right side cover will have plenty of clearance but should be installed in the same way.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:65.05%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/482222/2024-01-30_445d9192a9f4a.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;Without Camera Cutout (Cover is Visible):<img src="https://lh7-us.googleusercontent.com/i-LEeFsZ7mhDzLJoBrUFpaK5Cn5Ayh42kzByMlxjRzr8UvIq2a5LPpTnoe78sli4vxMe6kIyHyXK_228t2mwJlRtrkD-04mPqnYroHSkVYS-0WNieazHfjjHJfkTJJ3wlqeZr-n8ZRD_Kc9tQuQpT5J8avjcPYlg8IYEr5WYu7Y5RglaqBmpirXS-tBbXA">&nbsp;&nbsp;With Camera Cutout (Cover not Visible):<img src="https://lh7-us.googleusercontent.com/kTBd3_n4No1vWBt2XkfTouic3bVZd__YhO3Mgr0JYj-t8Hl48ZjBFeqc4WncfWH8GNcoTiL1w7pK1VieXHvNaKYcEIPeV91I3hxKaDiNlWuEQwHQI3y6uasFrQPMhFufEWhsRysiBWzlHUh2FFM2JeqDPc9vVaxofvwg2YZg12ArH8JV-M9sqQPhV_Ytxg">

Z-Shield V2 - Z-Axis Cover for P1P, P1S, and X1C

3d Drucker 

Joe Wilson

This is a Middle finger saber, it telecsopes out with a middle finger on the endthis is printed in 2 pieces, the middle finger as one piece and the telescopign part as the otherthe middle finger screws on with a thread

Middle Finger Saber collapsible/telescoping middle finger 

lustig 

Vigo 3D

Box for the Tetris Balancing Game from <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/u/3598824688" rel="nofollow noopener">ATTV85</a> , Dzip1, Roley32 and the most other versions at the Makerworld. <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/models/79755#profileId-90070" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/de/models/79755#profileId-90070 </a> You can change the colors of the letters in Bambu Lab Slicer (or Orca) and maybe when you print in Bambu Handy App. Change there the colors to your slot of each color.