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GlennovitS 3D

<figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td style="border:4px solid hsl(30, 75%, 60%);">Welcome to GlennovitS3D - fun models for everyone! Join the Club on Printables.com to support creation of new models, get access to exclusive models, and get commercial rights, to sell prints of my models.<a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@GlennovitS3D#join" rel="nofollow noopener">Join today - GlennovitS3D</a> - or check out my <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/@GlennovitS3D" rel="nofollow noopener">model collection</a> 😁</td></tr></tbody></table></figure><h2>Updates</h2>26. Feb 2024 - Uploaded new version: Inserts with French text (in both Slim and Duo) - but with a maybe more common order of days than the first french version. Thanks for the input in comments! And thanks for sharing images of your prints in nice colors!19. Feb 2024 - Uploaded new versions: Inserts with Dutch, Spanish and German text (in both Slim and Duo)! Thanks for the suggestions and for sharing images of your prints!11. Feb 2024 - Uploaded new versions: Inserts with French text (in both Slim and Duo)! And new Duo version with 1 bigger space pr. day. Both new versions made from requests by fellow makers on MakerWorld. Thanks for commenting, printing and sharing!<h2>Description</h2>Pill organizer for a week, but covered in beautiful textures. They feel awesome in the hand, looks great! Can be easily stacked in the closet/drawer if more than one in the family needs one.<figure class="image image-style-side"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/862173/2024-02-07_e6727da3d01bd8.jpeg"></figure>The pills are sorted by day to easily take what you need - nothing more, nothing less! And it is easy to get the pills updue to the fillet-design in the bottom of each space.Helping people to take their medication - that is a cause close to my heart! (Wanna know why? - read further down..)<h2>Overview</h2>For now i comes in 2 sizes to fit different needs:<ul><li>Slim - 1 space pr. day</li><li>Duo - 2 spaces pr. day (fx. morning + evening meds)</li><li>Duo - 1 BIG space pr. day</li></ul>Both sizes come in the following versions.<figure class="image image-style-side"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/862173/2024-02-07_aad4f6a13c5d5.jpeg"></figure><h2>Versions</h2>The Inserts comes in different versions of text:<ul><li>No text (possible to add custom text in slicer)</li><li>English - Monday to Sunday</li><li>English - Sunday to Saturday</li><li>Danish - Mandag til Søndag</li><li>French - Dimanche to Samedi</li><li>French - Lundi to Dimanche</li><li>Dutch - Maandag to Zondag</li><li>Spanish - Lunes to Domingo</li><li>German - Montag to Sonntag</li></ul>(If you want the text in another language, please leave a comment and I’ll see what I can do)&nbsp;The Covers comes in 4 styles for now:<ul><li>Simple - all smooth and quick to print</li><li>Tiles - pointy squares (my personal favorite!)</li><li>Pill Shapes - thick line cutouts</li><li>Spiral - extrusion spinning around the cover</li></ul>Combine the size, cover texture and colors to pack your medication beautifully!<figure class="image image-style-side"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/862173/2024-02-07_d5c048f1edb3f8.jpeg"></figure><h2>Assembly</h2>Nothing to do here - just print and fill up to use it - and slide the Insert into the Cover!The Inserts have a flexible lock on both sides, to keep the Insert in the cover without sliding out. If the Insert is a little tough to slide in/out, maybe sand a little on the side-locks on the Inserts. But don’t over-do it..<h2>Print instructions</h2>This is pretty simple, but here is a few tips:<ul><li>Supports: No</li><li>Brim: Yes (for the covers standing, a brim can help ensure bed-adhesion)</li><li>Infill: 10% for Inserts - 0% for Covers (to save filament)</li><li>Orientation: The models are oriented in the correct print position</li></ul>Happy printing!<h2>Why this means a lot to me!</h2>I personally live with epilepsy, and just within the last month, I forgot my medication once. Result: I had an epileptic seizure in front of my family. It’s horrifying to wake up after about an hour, not knowing what just happened. No warnings before, no idea what went wrong. But on the other side, it’s not at all fun to be the family either - a wife who knows what’s happening and needs to explain that to 2 + 5 year old kids, seeing their dad lying on the floor shaking. So when I saw the contest for pill organizers, I knew I had to do at least one design! If my design can just help 1 other person, I would be so happy!

Sliding Pill Box (textured box weekly medication)

klkl

Zurlingo-3D

<h2>Band Blaster - The 7 Shot 3D Printed Rubber Band Gun</h2> &nbsp;Features:<ul><li>7 round semi-automatic</li><li>Realistic slide movement</li><li>Front and rear sights built in</li><li>Easy to reload</li><li>Safe for kids (No removable parts, low velocity rubber bands)</li><li>Prints in under 5 hours (3 Colour)</li><li>Ingenious reloading design</li><li>Very strong robust print</li><li>Sounds like a real gun</li><li>Easy to assemble</li><li>Only 1 moving part</li><li>Lost bullets are not an issue, just buy another pack of cheap elastic bands!</li></ul>&nbsp;<figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://youtu.be/iWkvpm7xj9U"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/iWkvpm7xj9U" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Assembly:<ul><li>Insert either slide into the main body</li><li>Insert the trigger ensuring the holes line up with the holes in the slide</li><li>Screw in 2 screws until the head is flush with the surface of the slide</li><li>Insert the other slide</li><li>Insert the last 2 screws</li></ul>Tip: If the slide doesn't move freely after assembly, check that both sides are perfectly aligned with each other. Any miss alignment here can mess up the tolerances and can cause a sticky action.&nbsp;You could also sand the contact surfaces to decrease the amount of friction even further. I haven't needed to do this myself though. &nbsp;Screws:<ul><li>4x 4mm-5mm diameter countersunk screws or whatever you have in your toolbox as long as they fit! :)</li></ul>&nbsp;You can use smaller diameter/longer screws as the threads will meet and interlock in the middle, so the only important thing is that the heads don't protrude in to the path of the rubber bands.&nbsp;Loading:<ul><li>Hook the first band on the tip of the barrel</li><li>Stretch and locate it on the lowest groove to the rear of the main body</li><li>Continue this one band at a time until you reach the last groove</li><li>Ensure all bands are seated correctly with a clear gap between each groove</li><li>The Band Blaster is now ready to fire!</li></ul>Firing:For the action to work properly the slide needs to move fully back and fully forward. This is so the rubber bands can fully engage and climb up the ladder of teeth. &nbsp;After giving this to my kids to play with for a few hours (Age 4,6,7) they were struggling to fully pull back the trigger with all 7 bands loaded. This then messes up the order of the bands and jams the blaster. This shouldn't be an issue for anyone over the age of around 12 but if you do find it a problem for your kids, then you can simply use 3 or 4 bands to relieve some pressure off the trigger.&nbsp;Rubber Bands:&nbsp;You can use a wide range of rubber bands for this blaster, as long as they're all the same size.&nbsp;Here's a link to the size that i have been testing with:<a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/Elastic-Coloured-Natural-Supplies-Industrial/dp/B09XK86MP3/ref=asc_df_B09XK86MP3/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=600130594253&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1019593517136286046&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9046477&hvtargid=pla-1672121535760&mcid=76260e2f1e1034928c867a8455b84ff5&th=1" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.co.uk/Elastic-Coloured-Natural-Supplies-Industrial/dp/B09XK86MP3/ref=asc_df_B09XK86MP3/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=600130594253&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1019593517136286046&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9046477&hvtargid=pla-1672121535760&mcid=76260e2f1e1034928c867a8455b84ff5&th=1</a> &nbsp;These are not a fail safe though as I've found that even different coloured bands of the same size can have widely different strengths. I would suggest getting a large bag of mixed sizes to really dial in the right tension for your specific blaster.&nbsp;Tip: If you use your own bands and find that the action is stiff or not working properly, the bands are most likely too tight.&nbsp;I really hope you like this design! - It has taken a fair bit of work to get a super reliable, accurate, easy to print, fun for all the family rubber band blaster, and I personally can't stop playing with it!&nbsp;I will be releasing a set of targets to go with this very soon, so follow me to stay updated :)&nbsp;Please like the model and review your experience - It helps a lot! :)&nbsp;Also, post pictures of your makes! - I'd really like to see some different funky colours of this design! :P&nbsp;Commercial Licence Available Here:<a target="_blank" href="https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/7-shot-band-blaster-commercial-licence" rel="nofollow noopener">https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/7-shot-band-blaster-commercial-licence</a> &nbsp;&nbsp;Here's a target for you to dial in that aim!<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/125897#profileId-136070" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/125897#profileId-136070</a> &nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:41.14%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/379965/2024-01-06_a759daf94f361.gif"></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;

7 Shot Band Blaster

mail.iou

update 04/05/2024If you want a printing method that is easy to maintain, you can consider my redesign:Reverse Blade Collapsing Katana - Rurouni Kenshin<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/414234" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/414234</a>&nbsp;update 01/12/2024 This knife is a one-piece printed design. If you are not sure whether the filament you bought can print this work well, you can refer to my new creation &#34;Nichirin Samurai Sword&#34;. This work uses a split printing design to facilitate future maintenance and blade replacement. Nichirin Samurai Sword : <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/135353" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/135353</a>&nbsp;Reverse Blade Sword miniThis is a smaller version of the Reverse Blade Sword, with a total length of about 80cm, suitable for A1 mini printers or people who don’t want to print too much. If you want to experience the full size, please go to <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/111322" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/111322</a>&nbsp;Notice It is recommended to use PLA+ and Textured PEI Plate for printing. If the viscosity of the plate of your 3D printer deteriorates, be sure to use glue to increase the grip to prevent the printed part from falling off halfway and wasting filament.After printing, please remove the support at the end of the knife.<figure class="table" style="width:77.33%;"><table class="ck-table-resized"><colgroup><col><col></colgroup><tbody><tr><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/816156/2023-12-29_51c8c09c32f62.png"></figure></td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/816156/2023-12-29_60e68ce20b26b.png"></figure></td></tr></tbody></table></figure>Repair of fallen blades This work has been printed and verified on P1S, A1, and A1 mini printers and resized. It is currently tested using three materials: Bambu PLA, eSUN PLA+, and eSUN ePLA-Matte. The blade surface can be freely expanded and contracted without falling off. However, since PLA material is not resistant to high temperatures, if it is stretched and swung back and forth many times quickly, it will cause the blade to be heated and expand, causing the blade to be thrown out. At this time, you can repair it with a simple method. Please use a tape with high viscosity that is not easy to fall off, such as Acetate Cloth Tape. Stick it on the entrance where the blade falls off. The amount of tape can be adjusted to increase or decrease the size of the enlarged hole. Then push the blade down and plug it back into the entrance to repair it.<figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/816156/2023-12-30_59e2edca56a86.png"></figure></td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/816156/2023-12-30_9ae8cbf98f5af.png"></figure></td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/816156/2023-12-30_75ce6d29cda6e.png"></figure></td></tr></tbody></table></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;

Reverse Blade Sword mini ( Samurai Sword)

dfgrhkyj

Officina23

In a Sunlu filament spools I found a clip: it works quite well, so I redrawed it to be able to print some more. Depending on the adhesion, a brim may be required.&nbsp;If you often put your spools in vacuum bags, the raised back of the clip could sometimes damage them: in this case print version 2 with the back flattened (view print profiles). For Bambu Lab spools I advise you against using this clip, because it would be too narrow: it&#39;s better to print <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/it/models/48350#profileId-50202" rel="nofollow noopener">this specific version</a> adapted for the larger thickness.&nbsp;Warning:  before before downloading and printing SPAM profiles (uploaded everywhere always by the same users), check that when ★ 𝐅𝐚𝐬𝐭 is written it is really faster and not 30% slower at printing. Make sure also it was actually printed and that the photo used is not a copy of the print from the original profile, a rendering or a simple screenshot!

Spool filament clip Basic for Sunlu Spools

hrhgrhgr

Brent Peterson

<h2>Toroidal Launcher</h2>This is an original design created for the <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/contests/5" rel="nofollow noopener">Flying Objects design contest</a> and features a handheld three-stage planetary gearbox that launches a toroidal ring over 3000 RPM! The design is 100% 3D printed; all pieces press fit together and no additional hardware is required.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000093385/design/2023-12-15_92eaaa9691a14.gif"></figure><boostme><boosttitle>Boost Me</boosttitle><boostcontent>If you&#39;re interested in seeing more designs like this please consider boosting to support development of future projects. Thank you!</boostcontent></boostme><h2>Modifications and Add-on Designs</h2><ul><li>Gearbox modifications<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/99992#profileId-106623" rel="nofollow noopener">High torque conversion kit (1:2 ratio)</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/105586" rel="nofollow noopener">1:3 ratio gearset</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/108803" rel="nofollow noopener">1:4 ratio gearset</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/105590" rel="nofollow noopener">1:5.5 ratio gearset</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/110188" rel="nofollow noopener">1:7 ratio gearset</a></li></ul></li><li>Toroidal ring designs<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/102279" rel="nofollow noopener">Toroidal Launcher Mini Rings - 100mm pitch</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/97633" rel="nofollow noopener">Toroidal Launcher Mini Rings - 150mm pitch</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/102728" rel="nofollow noopener">Toroidal Launcher Mini Rings - 200mm pitch</a></li></ul></li><li>Remix Templates<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/123219" rel="nofollow noopener">Threaded cap</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/125073" rel="nofollow noopener">Hexagon gear driver</a></li></ul></li></ul><h2>Specifications</h2><ul><li>Three stage planetary gearbox with 1:48 gear ratio (overdrive)<ul><li>0.75mm gear module for ultra-smooth performance (24/72 teeth)</li><li>10mm hex driver for connecting gear stages</li></ul></li><li>Toroidal ring design with four blades (1.2mm thick) available in three sizes<ul><li>100mm diameter, 150mm pitch</li><li>125mm diameter, 175mm pitch</li><li>150mm diameter, 200mm pitch</li></ul></li></ul><h2>Printing Tips</h2><ul><li>All prints pictured were printed using Bambu Basic and Matte PLA</li><li>For best results run flow rate calibration and thoroughly clean build plate</li><li>The launcher gears are available in two print profiles with the following changes to the standard 0.20mm profile:<ul><li>Arachne wall generator</li><li>5x top and bottom walls, 25% infill</li><li>75 m/s inner and outer wall print speed</li></ul></li><li>The toroidal rings are available as a single print profile with the following changes to the standard 0.20mm profile:<ul><li>0.6mm line thickness, Arachne wall generator</li><li>75 m/s inner and outer wall print speed</li></ul></li><li>The launcher housing prints with the standard 0.20mm profile.</li></ul><h2>Printed Parts</h2><ul><li>Launcher Gears<ul><li>SunGear24.step [3x]</li><li>PlanetGear24.step [9x]</li><li>PlanetCarrier24.step [3x]</li><li>RingGearDouble.step [1x]</li><li>RingGearLid.step [1x]</li><li>RingDriver.step [1x]</li><li>GearDriver.step [1x]</li></ul></li><li>Launcher Housing<ul><li>HousingBase.step [1x]</li><li>HousingRingLid.step [1x]</li><li>HousingCarrierHolder.step [1x]</li><li>HousingCarrierThreads.step [1x]</li></ul></li><li>Toroidal Rings<ul><li>ToroidalRing100.step [1x]</li><li>ToroidalRing125.step [1x]</li><li>ToroidalRing150.step [1x]</li><li>ToroidalRingDriver.step [1x]</li><li>ToroidalRingLauncher.step [1x]</li></ul></li></ul><h2>Launcher Assembly</h2><ul><li>Assembly the planet carrier with three planet gears and one sun gear as shown below. Repeat for all three planet carrier assemblies.</li></ul><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000093385/design/2023-12-31_efae722ebe2db.gif"></figure><ul><li>Use the shorter hex drive to connect two sets of gears. Align both planet carriers and hold them with one hand while holding the double ring gear in the other hand and slowly turning as you close the gear; once closed insert the assembly into the main housing to hold secure. The gears should spin freely; if they don&#39;t remove the gear assembly and repeat this step.</li></ul><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000093385/design/2023-12-31_f1371c6d57ee6.gif"></figure><ul><li>Use the longer hex drive to connect the last set of gears and then assemble with the threaded cap as shown below.</li></ul><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000093385/design/2023-12-31_4926c45fbbf51.gif"></figure><ul><li>Carefully mesh the single ring gear with the planet gears taking note of the 2mm flat section that is positioned towards the main gear assembly as shown below. Use the same method of rotating while slowly closing and covering with the cap to hold secure.</li></ul><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000093385/design/2023-12-31_54c6fffceb4e5.gif"></figure><ul><li>Done! The assembly should spin smoothly with the output shaft making 48 rotations for every one turn of the input knob. Performance depends on printer tolerances and filament used; for best results use the include print profiles with Bambu Studio (supports many different printers). A bit of lubricant can also be added to the gears to improve performance.</li></ul><h2>Toroidal Ring Assembly</h2><ul><li>Insert the hex drive into the interlocking driver; the clearance is tight but it should be a snug fit.</li><li>Insert the assembled driver into the output sun gear, the fit should be the same.</li><li>If the driver does not stay secured when launching the ring a small amount of CA glue can be use.</li></ul><h2>Changes</h2><ul><li>v1<ul><li>Initial release; files now available in v1old folder</li></ul></li><li>v1.1<ul><li>Updated print profiles with improved settings for gears and rings</li><li>Improved single color print profile, fits on A1 mini and objects are laid out to allow skipping</li><li>Improved clearance of gears and overall meshing</li><li>Updated toroidal ring to use the same launcher as the mini rings<ul><li>Print profile includes 3 sizes (100mm, 125mm, 150mm)</li></ul></li><li>Updated assembly instructions to have fewer steps with a GIF for each one</li></ul></li><li>v1.1.01<ul><li>Added new section for template designs intended for remixing</li></ul></li></ul>

Toroidal Launcher - High RPM Planetary Gearbox

ttttt

Kocyns

<h3>Basic info:</h3><ul><li>Toroidal propeller launcher with double planetary gearbox.</li><li>Update: Part 13-256.stl - extended stick for bed 256x256mm (A1/P1/X1).</li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 40.15%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000077780/design/2023-12-17_c4bb05a73c6fe.gif"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 39.63%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000077780/design/2023-11-29_83uzwi9s2ww6.gif"></figure>&nbsp;Gearbox:<ul><li>Non-printable parts: You just need one type of screws (M3x16 Countersunk screw, DIN 7991) for assembly.</li><li>Gear ratio 1:12 with smooth move.</li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 28.52%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000077780/design/2023-11-29_zynkq0o8slne.gif"></figure><h3>Printing:</h3><ul><li>No supports!</li><li>Layers height are 0,12-0,2mm.</li><li>Recommended material for gears is PETG, see below to BOM.</li></ul><h3>BOM:</h3><figure class="table"><table><thead><tr><th colspan="4">Printed parts/Purchased parts</th></tr><tr><th style="border: 1px solid #000000">Item</th><th style="border: 1px solid #000000">File</th><th style="border: 1px solid #000000">Qty</th><th style="border: 1px solid #000000">Description</th></tr></thead><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center">1</td><td>1.stl</td><td>8</td><td>PETG</td></tr><tr><td style="text-align: center">2</td><td>2.stl</td><td>1</td><td>PETG</td></tr><tr><td style="text-align: center">3</td><td>3-Ring-up.stl</td><td>1</td><td>PETG</td></tr><tr><td style="text-align: center">4</td><td>4-Ring-down.stl</td><td>1</td><td>PETG</td></tr><tr><td style="text-align: center">5</td><td>5.stl</td><td>1</td><td>PETG</td></tr><tr><td style="text-align: center">6</td><td>6.stl</td><td>1</td><td>PETG</td></tr><tr><td style="text-align: center">7</td><td>7.stl</td><td>1</td><td>PETG</td></tr><tr><td style="text-align: center">8</td><td>8.stl</td><td>1</td><td>PLA (1)</td></tr><tr><td style="text-align: center">9</td><td>9.stl</td><td>1</td><td>PETG</td></tr><tr><td style="text-align: center">10</td><td>10.stl</td><td>1</td><td>PLA</td></tr><tr><td style="text-align: center">11</td><td>11.stl</td><td>1</td><td>PLA</td></tr><tr><td style="text-align: center">12</td><td>12.stl</td><td>1</td><td>PETG</td></tr><tr><td style="text-align: center">13</td><td>13, 13Low ,13-256</td><td>1</td><td>PETG (2)</td></tr><tr><td style="text-align: center">14</td><td>14.stl</td><td>1</td><td>PETG</td></tr><tr><td style="text-align: center">15</td><td>Tor_170.stl, Tor_200.stl</td><td>1</td><td>Propeller (3)</td></tr><tr><td style="text-align: center">-</td><td>Tor_base.step</td><td>-</td><td>to create remixes</td></tr><tr><td style="text-align: center">16</td><td>Screw M3x16</td><td>11</td><td>Countersunk screw (DIN 7991)</td></tr></tbody></table></figure><ol><li>Recommended high of layers 0,12mm</li><li>13Low.stl is for printer bed size under 250x210mm. 13-256.stl - extended stick for bed 256x256mm (A1/P1/X1).</li><li>170mm or 200mm toroidal propeller +105mm. Recommended high of layers 0,12mm.</li></ol><h3>Assembly:</h3>STEP 1:<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 40.15%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000077780/design/2023-11-29_wkmqsgwz6zyl.png"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 40.03%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000077780/design/2023-11-29_lbjrwlyynvsa.png"><figcaption>Note: Screw (red) in detail A shouldn&#39;t be too tight!</figcaption></figure>STEP 2:<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 40.02%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000077780/design/2023-11-29_ozf5yzznmp1z.png"></figure>STEP 3:<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 40.02%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000077780/design/2023-11-29_oog17ne6f0uq.png"></figure>STEP 4:<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 39.99%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000077780/design/2023-11-29_sstcnap2p6qk.png"></figure>STEP 5: Let&#39;s fly!!<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 40.14%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000077780/design/2023-11-29_4qb6fj7yq7z3.png"></figure><h3>Commercial uses:</h3>If you want permission for commercial use: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.patreon.com/kocy/" rel="nofollow noopener">patreon.com/Kocy</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;Note: By downloading and using the model, you agree that it is provided &#34;as is,&#34; without any warranties. The authors of this model are not liable for any accidents, damages, or other issues that may arise from its use. Users are encouraged to exercise caution and use the model responsibly. The author disclaims any responsibility for any losses or damages incurred through the use of this product.

ToroSpin Turbo - Launcher with planetary gearbox

takekoputer

dogg

swwwws

V3 Precision

This Lid Extension addresses a few issues; the PTFE tube rubbing on the underside of the lid, the need for a little more light, need to vent heat out of the enclosure when printing with PLA.&nbsp;The assembly is simple, just four parts for the frame, a bracket for the LED controller, and two slides.<ul><li>The slides are color coated (red and green) to be able to see if the vents are open or closed with a glance.</li><li>The four parts of the frame are embossed with identifiers (FR, FL, RR, RL).</li><li>I used M3 - 0.5 socket head cap screws to fasten the tabs on the frame and for the LED controller.</li><li>Weather stripping (½" x 1/16") was used on the top lid cavity. (also used when converting P1P to P1S)</li><li>I printed the parts using PLA-CF and ASA. I am sure it would print well with PETG also.</li></ul>&nbsp;All of the parts are listed in the BOM (included) and sources for the LED and weather stripping.&nbsp;FYI: The LED strip might pull too much power, causing the LED lights to flash on and off. I was able to cut the LED strip down to cover 3 sides of the Lid Extension and have no power problems. I applied the LED lights to the Front, Right, and Rear of the enclosure to reduce any shadows. &nbsp;Print Profile for the entire project on one plate and Profiles for the individual parts are provided.&nbsp;COMING SOON*Watch for another version of the Lid Extension designed more for the X1 series with power cable egress. &nbsp;For more information, be sure to watch the Youtube video:&nbsp;<figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://youtu.be/B0NhVtjF39g"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/B0NhVtjF39g" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure>

LED Lid Extension for X1 and P1 Series

afeegrhr

liljohn406

**CHECK OUT V2 HERE** <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/185439#profileId-204181" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/185439#profileId-204181</a>**ALSO CHECK OUT MY RISER DRAWER SYSTEM HERE**  https://makerworld.com/en/models/185440#profileId-204184After many iterations I finally got something I am happy with. I used a led strip that is powered by USB and plugged it in the 5V plug behind the screen on my P1P/P1S. There are access holes on both sides to run cabling/led strip. Open pocket behind logo to stash some lights to illuminate it. Vents only on the sides with a sliding doors built in. Which are held down by the glass. Front logo is a seperate piece to save time and filament. Only two color changes this way opposed too many if it is part of the model. Picture was printed in Bambu Matte Black and Bambu Green. 3mf is set with slower outer walls to prevent bulging and poor overhangs at top of hexagons.

Sliding Vents Riser With Led

fsesfffefe

maruel

Leverage the Aux Fan and heated bed in your X1/X1C/P1S to act as a filament dryer.<h2>Printing</h2>The design is printing friendly (PC with 65° overhang or ABS with 50° overhang) and designed to maximize speed, minimize filament usage while having good thermal isolation properties.You should be able to get good enough results even if your roll is moist; permitting you to bootstrap your cooking.Print with ABS or PC. Do not use PLA or PETG because their melting temperature is too low.An option is to do the first with ABS so you can cook your PC. Then print it again in PC. That said, my ABS cover was able to sustain 95℃ bed temperature overnight just fine. As a matter of fact, the Bambulab Reusable Spool is made of ABS!The cover is designed for the AMS spool sizing, which is 202 mm in diameter and 70 mm wide.<h3>Print settings</h3>0.4mm nozzle, 0.20mm Standard, 10% infill, infill direction: 0°, rectilinear infill (20min faster than grid), Seam position Nearest. Optionally use brims if ABS, not necessary with PC.Use &#34;Auto Orient&#34; then &#34;Arrange all objects&#34; with &#34;Auto rotate for arrangement&#34; checked. It should put the cover at 45° on the bed.If not, place the cover top down at 45° on the bed by rotating 45° on the Z axis.Printing time is 5½h~6½h and uses less than 220g of filament.<h2>Usage</h2><h3>Cooking</h3>Do not use the Dry filament program in the printer. We can use slightly higher temperatures for better drying because of the airflow. ♨️&nbsp;Tested with both ABS spools (Bambulab) and cardboard spools (Overture, Polylite).<ol><li>Put the high temp plate.</li><li>Adjust the plate Z height at the level where the cover&#39;s exhaust is at the Aux fan.</li><li>Put the Aux fan and Chamber fans at 30%.</li><li>Increase the bed temperature to the desired level (between 70℃ and 95℃). See <a target="_blank" href="https://maruel.ca/post/bambulab_filaments/" rel="nofollow noopener">https://maruel.ca/post/bambulab_filaments/</a> for a one pager including bed temperature for popular filaments.</li><li>Let your spool cook overnight. Turn mid-cook if you are insomniac.</li></ol><h3>After cooking</h3>To cool down the plate, put the Aux fan and Chamber fans at 100% and press Home. Leave the door open and the bed should cool down within 3 minutes or so.Don&#39;t forget to switch plates if you print PLA or TPU.Note that if you take a high temperature cooking filament and directly put it in the AMS right after, the filament will have the AMS gears deform the filament a little. It doesn&#39;t seem to be a problem.<h2>Contact</h2>The design is fully parametric. Contact me if you want different sizes, either smaller or larger, or want to sell printed versions.

Filament drying cover for X1C/P1S

ｆｇｔｈｔｙｊ

tellus1019

Having trouble with dark lighting 3D printers? This LED Riser will solve all your problems!&nbsp;<ul><li>Easy printing</li><li>Easy assembly</li><li>No screws/glue required</li><li>Tilted LED lighting in the chamber</li><li>Interlocked with ON/OFF control</li></ul>&nbsp;It is adjusted to print at the perfect size. If shrinkage occurs, e.g. with ABS filament, it may make it difficult to close the glass top panel. If this is the case, adjust the print size according to the shrinkage.&nbsp;&nbsp;Caution Do not use PLA if you require higher bed temperatures. If you use a bed temperature above 70 degrees Celsius, print with ABS or PETG.&nbsp;&nbsp;What you Need Prepare the LED light ribbons sold by Aliexpress.With this LED tape from Aliexpress, you can choose between X1C and P1S/P1P. <a target="_blank" href="https://aliexpress.com/item/1005005952550058.html" rel="nofollow noopener">https://aliexpress.com/item/1005005952550058.html</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;Assembly Instructions1. Print out all parts Print all parts included in the profile. There are 4 risers and 8 clasps.&nbsp;2. Insert the LED power cable Pass the LED power cable through the front left part. There is a hole in the corner to take out the cable.Take out the cable from there.&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/397274/2023-12-03_c4cab4720153c.jpeg">　<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/397274/2023-12-03_006467bd8cdce8.jpeg"> 3. Insert LEDs into all parts Insert LEDs through all parts. Insert the LEDs from the edge of the parts and push them in. The load will increase when you turn a corner, but this is not a problem if you push the LED in little by little.&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/397274/2023-12-03_b8d16bb2d8de3.jpeg">&nbsp;4. Fasten the parts with clasps. Fasten the parts with clamps at the front, back, left, and right, for a total of 8 locations. Push the clasps into position. It is easier to fix the lower part first, then the upper part.&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/397274/2023-12-03_8755c1e4ca1db.jpeg">&nbsp;5. replace existing LED power cable with new cable After the LED Riser is completed, plug in the power cable.First, turn off the printer. Locate the LED connector from the power supply area at the top inside the 3D printer. Disconnect the existing LED connector and connect the new LED power supply.&nbsp;Check the wiki for details. Connector location differs between X1C and P1S/P1P.&nbsp;X1C <a target="_blank" href="https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/maintenance/replace-the-chamber-led" rel="nofollow noopener">https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/maintenance/replace-the-chamber-led</a>P1S/P1P<a target="_blank" href="https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/p1/troubleshooting/p1p-led-failture" rel="nofollow noopener">https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/p1/troubleshooting/p1p-led-failture</a>&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/397274/2023-12-03_d34840bcf9cfa8.jpeg">&nbsp;6. Check the LED operation Turn on the printer. Change the LED lighting setting and check if the LED lights up. If there is no problem, the LED should light up in conjunction with ON/OFF.&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/397274/2023-12-03_779a84dacb5a1.jpeg">

X1C/P1S/P1P Best LED Riser - Perfect size / No screws / No glue

hrthresgdg

TK-3Dscad

LED mounting frame to raise the glass panel and accommodate a Govee RGBIC LED strip. Flat and practical design, printed from BASIC PLA in matt black. I hope you like the frame. Designed for the Bambu Lab P1S. &nbsp;Please excuse the poor quality of some photos and leave a review after printing/assembly ;o)&nbsp;The Govee RGBIC Strip can be controlled via app and creates many beautiful colour patterns.&nbsp;https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07L9RZ7F1?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

LED Mounting Frame P1S

gsrgrwss

Whimsii3D

I wanted a splash of color on 3D Chihuahuas X1C door knob and I don't have an AMS. Easy printing, pick your colors and snap them together. A dab of CA glue on the back will prevent the insert from rattling out.Enjoy!

X1C/P1S Door Knob with Bambu Lab Logo with Multicolor Insert

mjkhug

UPDATE 13. Dec 2023 - Added 12 more sizes! (same lengths, but with a bigger or smaller lid/opening - size 30 and 50. Size 40 is the original) Enjoy!&nbsp;With this simple little print, you can make your bags a lot easier to use in the kitchen! It’s easy to open, pour and close again. Just print and mount on the bag and you are ready to go! No extra hardware needed - all 3D printed. Ready within an hour - almost no reason not to try this ;-)<h2>Overview</h2>The model comes in 18 sizes for now! It's based on the diameter of the lid/opening and the length of the clip. The diameter comes in 3 sizes:<ul><li>30 mm</li><li>40 mm</li><li>50 mm</li></ul>All lengths of the clips in a particular diameter size, uses the same Cylinder and Lid.The clip comes in 6 lengths (currently from XS to XXL). The total length of the different sizes is approx.:<ul><li>XS: 55, 65, 75 mm (depending on the diameter of the lid/openening)</li><li>S: 90 mm</li><li>M: 120 mm</li><li>L: 150 mm</li><li>XL: 180 mm</li><li>XXL: 210 mm</li></ul>For your information, the sizes used on the images are:<ul><li>Pink: 40 - XS</li><li>Yellow: 40 - XL</li><li>Blue: 30 - XS</li></ul>If you have a request for more sizes or other ideas that would make this clip even better, please leave a comment and I’ll get back to you!<figure class="image image_resized image-style-side" style="width:40.53%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/450294/2023-12-11_bc82b2a49eaeb.gif"></figure><h2>Assembly</h2><ol><li>Cut a hole in the bag (fx. a hole in the corner just big enough to fit the cylinder)</li><li>Hold the Cylinder in the hole with the thread sticking out.</li><li>Mount the Clip around the bag and Cylinder base</li><li>Screw the Lid on</li></ol><h2>Print instructions</h2>It prints easy and can print with default values. There are some tips though to make it better.<ul><li>Supports: No - the print-in-place hinge prints without supports!</li><li>Walls/perimeters: 3-5 - the more walls, the stronger but more filament is used - so test a see what you find the best.</li><li>Infill: The more infil, the stronger it will be. Mostly needed on the longer Clip versions.</li></ul>&nbsp;Happy printing!&nbsp;<h2>Want to show your support?</h2>You can see all my designs on Printables - and you can become an active supporter. I would really appreciate it!<a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@GlennovitS3D#join" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.printables.com/@GlennovitS3D#join</a>

Ultimate Bag Clip (with Lid - easy access!)

fefeefgr

TekNik Project

I modified this excellent project by another user [jogu44], by reinforcing the support base and making it more stable.Excellent accessory for easily lifting and then closing the upper glass of the BambuLab P1P P1S X1C printers in order to print PLA without problems.If you encounter any problems let me know and I will fix it as soon as possible.Share the photo of your print with model feedback in the comments and like it. Thank you!&nbsp;Revision v2: I changed the model format (STEP), now in the slicer you can find the 3 divided parts so you can print the separate interlocking part for those who have tolerance problems.&nbsp;-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------&nbsp;Ho modificato questo ottimo progetto di un altro utente [jogu44], andando a rinforzare la base di appoggio e renderlo più stabile.Ottimo accessorio per alzare e poi richiudere con facilità il vetro superiore delle stampanti BambuLab P1P P1S X1C in modo da stampare il PLA senza problemi.Se riscontri qualche problematica fammelo sapere e provvederò a sistemarla il prima possibile.Condividi nei commenti la foto della tua stampa con un feedback del modello e metti mi piace. Grazie!&nbsp;Revisione v2: Ho cambiato il formato del modello (STEP), ora nello slicer puoi trovare le 3 parti divise in modo da poter stampare la parte ad incastro separata per chi ha problemi di tolleranze.

Glass Top Riser BambuLab - Alzata Vetro Superiore BambuLab -  [REMIX] - v2

fdggee

OldViking

The spool holder has to be rotated 50 degrease to fit the print aera in Bambu Lab P1S.(As a precaution both holder parts should be rotated 50 degrease to be sure that they match each other).&nbsp;Plotprofil: Bambu PLA Basic Preset: 0.20mm Strength @BBL X1C - Wall loops: 6 - Sparse infil: 25% Grid Bolts required: 4 x M3 20 mm thread + bolt head 2 mm high 2 x M3 12 mm thread + bolt head 2 mm highNuts required: 2 x M3 5,4 mm wide&nbsp;Design: Søren Håkan November 2023Copyright notes: Not for Commercial Use - Created in Autodesk Fusion 360 Personal

BambuLab P1S -Top Spool Holder

wewew

Infinity 3D Prints

𝐌𝟒 𝐡𝐚𝐫𝐝𝐰𝐞𝐚𝐫 𝐢𝐬 𝐧𝐞𝐞𝐝𝐞𝐝 !!! 𝐓𝐡𝐢𝐬 𝐰𝐚𝐬 𝐝𝐞𝐬𝐢𝐠𝐧𝐞𝐝 𝐭𝐨 𝐛𝐞 𝐮𝐬𝐞𝐝 𝐰𝐢𝐭𝐡 𝐦𝟒 𝐡𝐚𝐫𝐝𝐰𝐞𝐚𝐫 , 𝐦𝟒 𝐢𝐧𝐬𝐞𝐫𝐭𝐬 𝐚𝐧𝐝 𝐦𝟒 𝐛𝐮𝐭𝐭𝐨𝐧 𝐡𝐞𝐚𝐝 𝐚𝐥𝐥𝐞𝐧 𝐛𝐨𝐥𝐭𝐬 𝐓𝐡𝐢𝐬 𝐰𝐢𝐥𝐥 𝐍𝐎𝐓 𝐖𝐎𝐑𝐊 𝐰𝐢𝐭𝐡 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐬𝐭𝐨𝐜𝐤 𝐛𝐢𝐭𝐬 !!!! &nbsp;I REALLY LOVED THIS HANDLE ON MY K1 MAXSO I REMIXED IT WITH HEATED INSERTS FOR MY BAMBUSAND NOW IM SHARING IT WITH ALL YOU AS WELL TO ENJOY&nbsp;Changed license as it didn’t match the main model . Ty for bringing this to my attention

X1C /p1s  DOOR HANDLE 

doornob

laisch

With this handy little tool you can clean your carbon rods even when the lid of your bambulab printer is closed.Just put Isopropyl alcohol on the sponges, snap it to your carbon rod and move it back and forth a few times till they are shiny again.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/251911/2023-12-07_e4ey6ohuzxon.gif"></figure>&nbsp;<h3>Postprocessing</h3>For the sponges you can use a normal kitchen sponge (be careful to not use the abrasive ones). Cut two pieces roughly about 10x20x20mm and press them into the spongeholder.For the pullback mechanism you can either print the provided spring in TPU, or use small hair rubberbands. The spring also works in PETG but looses its strength from time to time.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/251911/2023-12-07_g1k0c2tnzlwn.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;More info about cleaning the carbon rods can be found in the <a target="_blank" href="https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/general/carbon-rods-clearance" rel="nofollow noopener">Bambulab Wiki</a>

Carbon Shine - Carbon Rod Cleaning Tool

carbon-mente

OK_3D .

Poop Chute mit höherem Rand an der rechten und hinteren Seite. So landet das Filament sicher im Behälter.