Hellraicer

Chillchamp

This is a self watering reservoir for grow bags (appr. 15 cm/ 6 inch). I tested it with wicks up to 6 mm in diameter but for the small grow bags you don&#39;t need as much.It has 3 parts: Reservoir, lid, spike. You add the wick to the spike, cut a slit into to bottom of the grow back with an knife and add the spike (no problem if there is already soil or a plant in the bag). Any wick works, I used Orimerc wicks + the 3.8l / 1 Gallon grow bags from Root Pouch.  It&#39;s easy to disassemble, clean or replace the wick.&nbsp;Feel free to use the provided f3d to make remixes for other sizes.

Wicking-reservoir/ Wicking-pot for grow bag

Grow

DamianB2

<div><h1>Summary</h1><div>This is a cover for LED Strip Lights. It prints without supports. Looks good using white or clear filament. It has 4 holes for mounting using screws </div><h1>Print Settings</h1>Printer Brand: <div>Creality</div> <pre><code> Printer: <div>Ender 3</div></code></pre> Rafts: <div>No</div> <pre><code> Supports: <div>No</div></code></pre> Resolution: <div>200</div> <pre><code> Infill: <div>20</div></code></pre> Filament: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&field-keywords=Sunlu+PLA" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"> Sunlu PLA </a><pre><code> Clear</code></pre></div>

LED Strip Light Cover

Maoirae

Due to hotend design there is problem, that hotend fan is taking air to cool down from bad places where is hot air, like bellow from around heatblok and heatbed and that can lead to melt filament too soon before heatblok and cause clog. So to prevent this heat creep I designed a little fan duct to prevent that. Its made to take air directly from the side of hotend housing. Its made simply to just screw directly to part cooling fan, than you can assemble front hotend housing as normal. Hope it will help you.&nbsp;Print from PETG or ABS for better heat resistance.&nbsp;There is also model for X1C/X1 in my published models: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/models/98684#profileId-105217" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/de/models/98684#profileId-105217</a>

Hotend fan duct P1P/P1S

nozzle

Hey,after thousands of downloads coming from my first two versions of this filament clip, I decided to make one last version to improve to perfection. I have gotten a lot of feedback from my old versions, that I have carefully reviewed and implemented them on this version. Check out the Version 1 and 2 of this filament clip on my profile: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/@Tim04" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/@Tim04</a> If you like this model please consider boosting it! Here are some of my other models: <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000483185/design/2024-06-03_092f45cb5e97d.jpeg"> <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000483185/design/2024-06-03_b62b79afdaf23.jpeg"><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000483185/design/2024-06-03_3426aa5ec83b4.png"></figure>

Filament Clip Hexagon V3

Filament 

Creative Electronics

I designed this modular phone/camera arm which you can clamp on every surface!&nbsp;&nbsp;I included 3 different sized for the clamp (Pt1_)(30 mm/1,18 inch - 40 mm/1,57 inch - 50 mm/1,97 inch).<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 100%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000427730/design/2024-04-14_2d5fc0c5a3742.png"></figure>Clamping mechanism for phones (65mm-90mm) and tablets (140mm-240mm), TPU insert for using phones and tablets (9mm thick) without a case.<blockquote>Pt1_Phone_Holder, Pt2_Phone_holder, TPU insert = Pt3_Phone_Holder:</blockquote><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 100%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000427730/design/2024-04-14_f105c7157fed4.png"></figure><blockquote>Pt1_Tablet_Holder, Pt2_Tablet_holder, TPU insert = Pt3_Phone_Holder:</blockquote><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000427730/design/2024-05-11_238edf61be6ec.png"></figure>For full modularity I made different lengths for the arm (Pt3_) (50-100-150-200-250-300mm)<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000427730/design/2024-04-14_2ef13e9078089.png"></figure>&nbsp;This camera tripod is not only made for smartphones but also for cameras and video lamps, using M6 or 1/4in thread you can screw them on. (Camera_Holder_Tripod)I also made a cold shoe adapter (Cold_Shoe_Tripod) and different new knobs for the ¼ bolts and nuts (Pt6-1-4in_Tripod)<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000427730/design/2024-05-11_9bbefaa593563.png"></figure>&nbsp;To join all the parts together I used DIN933 M8 bolts and DIN934M8 nuts, the bolts are mostly 30 mm long. For the camera holder I used DIN933 M6 bolts and DIN934 nuts.For easy acces to the bolts I made some knobs in 4 sizes (see .3mf file).&nbsp;Down here you can see some UPDATES for the camera arm (dd/mm/yyyy):<ul><li>08/05/2024: Wider knobs so it&#39;s easier to adjust (Pt6.4_M8_Tripod , Pt6.4_M6_Tripod , Pt6.4_1-4in_Tripod)</li><li>11/05/2024: Tablet clamp (140mm-240mm)                        ¼ Thread camera holder and knobs</li></ul>

Modular Clamping Camera/Phone Arm

laptop

Malkus

This is a mounting bracket for the Sunlu S2 filament dryer. It is compatible with use of a poop bucket on the back side. Its stable with its support legs and has good clearance for the power cable. The dryer can be secured to the bracket by replacing two externally mounted screws of the dryer and mounting new longer ones through the holding tray. The legs are printed seperatly and slided into place.&nbsp;1, Print and remove supports. Take extra care scraping and clearing the tracks for the legs interface. Support in the screw holes can be punched out from the sop side afterwards&nbsp;2, Remove the two visible screws from the bottom of the dryer&nbsp;3, Fasten the dryer through the tray screw holes from below with 2 pcs #6 x 3/4” metal screws or 4x25mm ones.&nbsp;4, Tap the legs in place with some mechanical empathy (tight fit intentional)&nbsp;5, Release AMS cable and existing stock spool holder if mounted&nbsp;6, Fit the power cable to the filament dryer.&nbsp;7, Fasten the bracket using the same mouning holes as spool holder but using at least 2 mm longer screws. (I dont recommend to dremmel out material to make stock screws fit. There will be very little material left then and might be a risk over time)&nbsp;8, Reconnect the AMS cably through the bracket hole&nbsp;9, Fit a PTFE tube through one of the top holes in the dryer lid and route it to your Y splitter or direct feed to the printer. I preferr using the front facing hole because it provides a smooth bending route to the printer.&nbsp;My PTFE tube has an outer diameter of 4.23mm and it makes a perfect smooth fit of the tube through the small rubber bushing in the filament hole of the dryer lid. Some qualities of tubes have small OD, about 4 mm. If this is the case one might try 2 turns of tape around the tube where it enters the dryer to increase the tube diamteer or exchange the PTFE tube for a qulaity with better fit.&nbsp;It is of course possible to add extra stabillity applying thin foamed double sided tape to the interface between the holder bracket and the printer panel. I preferr 3M VHB tapes with any thickness below 1mm. It will be mega strong and if one needs to remove it it wont separate having to scrape clean both sides&nbsp;Feature releases might get small markings where to put strips.&nbsp;Thanks to those who downloaded and provided feedback. Glad you liked it!

Malkus Sunlu S2 filament dryer mounting X1C

sunlu

jetpad

Here’s a unique model that allows you to create your own tricolor filament. Instead of purchasing pre-made filament rolls, you&#39;ll use your 3D printer to directly print a filament-like structure. This process involves printing a model that itself functions as 3D printer filament. You choose three colors to incorporate into the model—designated as top, middle, and bottom layers. These layers are fused during the printing process to form a continuous, multicolored filament strand. Once printed, this custom filament can be used just like standard filament to add a personalized touch of color to your 3D printing projects.&nbsp; When used in your 3D printer, the tricolor filament exhibits unique characteristics similar to commercial dual and tricolor options. Depending on the arrangement of colors and the orientation of your print model, you can predictably influence where colors appear on your final print. For example, you can anticipate your three colors (top/middle/bottom) to show up in consistent bands throughout your printed model, blending beautifully from front to back. This arrangement offers a degree of control over the visual outcome, allowing for creative and stunning effects in your printed objects.&nbsp;Printing Hints&nbsp;I highly recommend using a Bambu Textured PEI Plate if you do not already have one. Utilize one side of the plate exclusively for PLA filament and the other side for PETG. This prevents adhesion problems caused by residual contamination from incompatible plastics.For optimal printing results, also ensure that your printer bed is thoroughly cleaned to prevent additional adhesion problems. These simple steps can significantly enhance the quality and success of your prints.&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/136663#profileId-149962" rel="nofollow noopener">LARRY the tiny Dino</a> has been the featured subject in the photos showcasing the multi-color filament that I’ve been creating. All the filaments I used to create the multi-colored effects were made from matte PLA. The multicolor appearance is somewhat more subtle than what you might see in pre-made dual-color filaments, which often use silk-type filaments for a more pronounced effect.&nbsp;Happy printing!&nbsp;<h4>Check out these other custom filaments you can make: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/446943" rel="nofollow noopener">Quad-Color</a>   <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/460079" rel="nofollow noopener">Custom Colors</a>   <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/477652" rel="nofollow noopener">Stratified</a></h4>

Filament Creator - Tricolor

test

rennim

Cherry MX arrow key keycaps with triforce directional arrows.Recommend using .2 mm nozzle and printing the key face down on a smooth plate for best results. AMS works great for doing a gold silk inlay with black key.Fit great in standard Keychron Cherry MX style keyboard.

Cherry MX Triforce Arrow Keys

jason

MAFIA_SKULL 🥇

<h2>RC Car - Dragon R1</h2><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/701869/2023-12-03_896ab5820c4318.webp"></figure>&nbsp;<figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FiOJ_alnoYA"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/FiOJ_alnoYA" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure>These are the features which liked to incorporate in this design;<ul><li>Maximum 3D printed parts</li><li>Easy to source hardware</li><li>Simple Assembly</li><li>Easy maintenance and battery access</li><li>Dual wishbone suspension</li><li>Open differential</li><li>Low noise drive (using Blheli ESC)</li><li>Printable with a 200mm size printer</li></ul>If you want to add some more cool features, Go ahead; The whole project is Open Source.<h4><a target="_blank" href="https://a360.co/3RFnxWf" rel="nofollow noopener">robocar</a>-→ <a target="_blank" href="https://a360.co/3RFnxWf" rel="nofollow noopener">https://a360.co/3RFnxWf</a></h4><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/701869/2023-12-03_38f24fb15d6ce8.webp"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:56.23%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/701869/2023-12-03_6dc6309198f22.webp"></figure>3d printing:<ul><li>PLA filament - around 800g required</li><li>Flexible filament - for tyres</li></ul>Hardware:<ul><li>608 bearing - 6pcs</li><li>M3 Screws:</li><li>M3 8mm - 35pcs</li><li>M3 12mm - 22pcs</li><li>M3 16mm - 4pcs</li><li>M3 20mm - 10pcs</li><li>Ø2mm rod - 16mm</li><li>Rubber bands</li></ul>Electronics:<ul><li>Generic 2212 BLDC motor</li><li>ESC (Blheli ESC recommended)</li><li>9g Servo</li><li>2-3S Lithium Battery</li><li>RC Transmitter and Receiver</li></ul><h2>Step 1: A Look Into the Design</h2><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/701869/2023-12-03_9ebbfa67e7cdf.webp"></figure>The motor used here is a generic A2212 BLDC motor, this has enough power to reach good speeds without any heating issues.The power from the motor is distributed to the rear wheels with an open differential.The wishbone suspension uses common rubber bands, its works well.A maintenance door is added to the underside of the car to allow easy access of the electronics and battery.Likewise I have managed to use the least number of parts to simplify the assembly process without much trade-off in features.Model is 1/12 scale;<ul><li>length: 396mm</li><li>width: 164mm</li><li>height: 71mm</li></ul><h2>Step 2: 3D Printing the Parts</h2>The parts can be printed with any 200mm size printer.It is recommended to use rafts for small parts like gears.PLA is recommended for all the parts. I have used Orange and Grey for a nice Dual colour look.The tyres need to be printed with a flexible material like TPU.Some parts are intricate and require a well calibrated printer to work well. So please start by printing the test print, this can help to check if your printer/ print settings are good.&nbsp;<h2>Step 3: Lets Build It</h2><figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FiOJ_alnoYA"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/FiOJ_alnoYA" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure> The assembly process is divided into 3 main parts:<ol><li>Rear chassis</li><li>Rear axle</li><li>Differential</li><li>Rear Suspension</li><li>Front chassis</li><li>Steering mechanism</li><li>Front suspension</li><li>Body assembly</li><li>Base chassis</li><li>Body</li></ol>Finally connect the electronics, check the servo and motor direction. You're good to go<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/701869/2023-12-03_e5c0af66f6bd48.webp"></figure><h4><a target="_blank" href="https://a360.co/3c7BITE" rel="nofollow noopener">Rear chassis</a> -→ <a target="_blank" href="https://a360.co/3c7BITE" rel="nofollow noopener">https://a360.co/3c7BITE</a></h4><h4><a target="_blank" href="https://a360.co/3c7W3YV" rel="nofollow noopener">Front chassis</a>-→ <a target="_blank" href="https://a360.co/3c7W3YV" rel="nofollow noopener">https://a360.co/3c7W3YV</a></h4>&nbsp;<h3>Remix Collection: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/social/303687-rambros/collections/457378" rel="nofollow noopener">Dragon R1 & Remixes</a>-→ <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/social/303687-rambros/collections/457378" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.printables.com/social/303687-rambros/collections/457378</a></h3><h4>Source files:</h4><a target="_blank" href="https://a360.co/3RFnxWf" rel="nofollow noopener">Fusion 360 files: https://a360.co/3RFnxWf</a>&nbsp; thank you very much Rambros @rambros for this superb project.

RC Car - Dragon R1

catman25

This is the Extreme Bong I created with all attachments . use included print profile to ensure leak proof model

Extreme Bong  w/ attachments

smoke

ljhtom (Javier Hernando)

Vacuum cleaner nozzles. Nozzles for vacuum cleaner, hose coupling diameter 32/34 mm. Different models. Inlet of 16 mm. 12 mm inlet 16x26 mm inlet 12x22 mm inlet Reinforced 12 mm long inlet for 12 mm diameter pipe.

Vacuum cleaner nozzles.

Staubsauger 

Max Kern

<div><h1>Summary</h1><div>More Details: <a href="https://hackaday.io/project/180534" rel="nofollow">https://hackaday.io/project/180534</a> Youtube: <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rt-FT-M5G7A" rel="nofollow">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rt-FT-M5G7A</a>Zerobug is a 3D-printed micro-servo hexapod robot powered by a Raspberry Pi Zero and a STM32F103. The Pi Zero is in charge of the input methods and front end, making the robot controllable via mouse, keyboard, multitouch or simply a Bluetooth Gamepad. To get the robot walking, the STM32 handles leg locomotion, inverse kinematics and controls its 18 servos.</div></div>

ZeroBug - DIY Hexapod Robot

technick

SPStudio

<h4>I update, revise and improve my design for my fixes very often. Please only use my Print Profile (Labelled as Designer or SPStudio) to ensure this fix is updated & work well. Profile with Non-Designer tags may be of poor functionality or non updated model.</h4>Click on Like if this model helped you in some way. It is very important and will help increase the exposure of this design to more people who might need it. Cheers!&nbsp;&nbsp;This will be my final Ams internal fix as i believe there is no bettor way to fix it internally anymore. Thank you so much for your support.&nbsp;<blockquote>AnnouncementNew and Improved V2 Versions for the Ams Buffer Fix <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/101046" rel="nofollow noopener">Before Buffer</a> and <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/85989" rel="nofollow noopener">After Buffer</a> have just been released. Do check them out in my profile to see what are the improvement. Thank you for your continuous support.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:33.04%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/393216/2023-12-21_db335e9276f41.jpg"></figure></blockquote><h2> </h2><h2>Introduction</h2>Failed to pull back filament error can be caused by multiple different variables & factors. This is a part of an series of Ams fixes that i have designed which can complement each other when used together. I do suggest you install all my fixes together for the 0ptimal effect to help your filament travel properly across the entire system which in turn can help improve, reduce or remove any potential Ams errors.&nbsp;I have grouped all fixes into their respective Collection for ease of searching what to install.&nbsp;V2 Collection are improvements done on the shortcoming of V1 Collection. Feel free to try V2 Collection and if it doesn't work properly then you can try the V1 Collection. You can easily find each of the Collection by clicking on the Collections tab on my profile.&nbsp;Unfortunately there isn't a single fix that can 100% work for everyone. What works for others, may not work for you but my fixes is definately a great place to start and have worked for majority of the users. My fixes are precisely measured then modelled. A Proper Fix would have the highest chance to reduce or solve the error.&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:81.05%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/393216/2024-01-09_cd9c426e40212.jpg"></figure><h2> </h2><h2> </h2><h2>If you are too bored to read the entire lengthy write up explaining the need for this fix, here is the TL:DR.</h2>&nbsp;What is this? Ams Filament Pull Back Fix V2 Upgraded is a total revamp design of the <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/47982#profileId-49834" rel="nofollow noopener">hugely successful previous model</a> for correcting the internal Ptfe tubes angle inside the Ams and maintain a straight Ptfe feeding into the Ams motor to reduce friction and pressure.&nbsp;&nbsp;Important Note: This new design is used to replace the older version. You can choose to use any of the version or try 1 then if it doesn't work very well then try the other one, but please DO NOT use both new and old model together. It will make things worse.&nbsp;&nbsp;Main difference with the previous model <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/47982#profileId-49834" rel="nofollow noopener">Ams Fix Failed To Pull Back Filament Error</a><ol><li>Completely New Design, even accurately designed to solve the problem compared to the original version.</li><li>Will NOT affect your warranty as its reversible.</li><li>Even well supported by the new screws design comparing to my previous fix or other similar clones trying to do a lookalike workalike.</li><li>Precise measurement for reduced friction of filament moving through</li><li>Helps reduce the internal Ptfe wear and tear</li><li>Fix is now much closer in distance to the root of the problem.</li><li>Ensuring nearly ZERO possibility or chances of the tube flexing near the entry point of the Ams internal filament hub causing that misalignment that might cause an error to pop up.</li><li>Angle of the entry for the Ptfe into the Ams internal Filament have been re-optimised once again..</li><li>ez to install, just unscrew the 2 screws at the Ams internal Filament Hub and put in the fix then put back the screws.</li><li>As the fix supporting the Ptfe is now right outside the entry of the <a target="_blank" href="https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/maintenance/replace-filament-hub" rel="nofollow noopener">Ams internal filament hub</a>, possibility of failure to fix the problem because of bent or misshaped tube is now greatly reduced.</li><li>This fix have been tested for on 1 X1C, 1 P1P and 2 P1S for about 94800 retractions so far as of this listing.</li></ol>&nbsp;Please ignore the silver screw i used as seen in the install video, just use the same original 2 black screws from your internal Ams filament hub. In order to make and design and measure this fix, i rounded my own screw threads after assembling and disassembling 50 times for variations i tested against height, angle and thickness.&nbsp;Please follow the installation video closely to ensure you are installing it correctly. Failure to follow will affect how well the fix will work. Video at end of page.&nbsp;&nbsp;Who needs this fix? 1) Constantly having errors like Failed To Pull Out Filament and similar related2) The Ams motor sounds like struggling when move filament in and out of the Ams to the Extruder, like a lot of friction when moving.3) Ams cannot load or unloading properly. (Not including Spool being too light or a break of filament in the Ams)4) Having a constant struggle on any of your Ams slots, people complained about Slot 2 and 3 but this fix is designed to fix all of 4 slots for Failed To Retract / Pull Out Filament Error.&nbsp;&nbsp;Why choose this fix instead of other similarly designed fix?I do think that in theory, this new fix will work great and likely even superseding in performance when compared to my ver 1 design.&nbsp;This is ez to print but yet its measurement is very precise. I have spent over 60 hours to design and confirmed the proper angle to move the internal Ptfe to allow filament to pass through smoothly and then printed multiples models to ensure that my fix works by properly aligning the internal Ptfe tube to reduce and possibility even eliminating the dreadful Failed To Pull Out Filament Error or similar related problems.&nbsp;&nbsp;<h2>Preparation Video (Proper removal of support and ensure Ptfe tube fit)</h2><figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://youtu.be/QZkzHy08jVI"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/QZkzHy08jVI" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/393216/2023-11-04_20b419972641e.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;<h2>Installation Video</h2><figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://youtu.be/6rs1xp-rX5Q"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/6rs1xp-rX5Q" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure>(As the location of the fix is right at the entry point of the Filament internal hub do make sure you align then push in the Ptfe Tube tightly making sure that the Ptfe tube actually entered the internal filament hub.)&nbsp;Also take note to the arrows at the side, make sure the fix is NOT clipping or pressing on any of the Ams wiring when you are installing it. <figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/393216/2023-11-05_c033df2f88abb.png"></figure>Pic from Bambu wiki.&nbsp;<h2>Important Notes:</h2>Please watch the video and description carefully. Its really important to make sure the fix installed correctly to let it work properly&nbsp;Note 1: The Ptfe Tube is supposed to be tight and snug for the support with precision. Plz make sure you installed it correctly as per the video instruction.&nbsp;Note 2: Please ensure you followed the preparation video closely before installing to ensure all supports are CLEANLY removed so the fix will work perfectly&nbsp;Note 3: You are required to properly assembled the Ams including the 2 screws that you unscrewed during the disassembly as this model require everything to be tight and snug for it to work properly.&nbsp;Note 4: When reassembling try to adjust the 2 very long wires connecting to the rear of the Ams Circuit board, don't let them press on any of the Ptfe tube. I don't think it matters but its a good practice.&nbsp;Note 5: Do NOT overtighten the screws please. As shown in the installation video, just tight then finger tight will work Don't jam it all the way down please. The screw is just to hold the fix in place.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<h2>What Mod / Fixes / Enhancement do i offer?</h2>Please don't download the wrong one. Only those in the photos below is designed by me who painstakingly took a lot of time to measure carefully and design just to get it working. #SupportOriginal Love you guys for all the support so far!&nbsp;- <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/47982" rel="nofollow noopener">Ams FIX Failed To Retract Filament Error (a preventive measure and solve the bay 2 and 3 error and prevent bay 1 and 4 to have any possibility of having an error due to tension and friction)</a> (Updated design on the 2nd photo below, try 1 then if it doesn't works properly for you then install the other one.)&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:74.94%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/393216/2024-01-10_2e40f9b49d622.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/56906" rel="nofollow noopener">(BRAND NEW) Ams Filament Pull Back Fix V2 Upgraded - Completely New Design Upgrade For Ams Filament Pull Back ERROR! Precisely Measured</a>&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:75.86%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/393216/2024-01-10_9c729f1a3501a.webp"></figure>&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/52782" rel="nofollow noopener">- Ams Buffer Fix For Failed To Pull Back Filament Error (reduce wear on the external Ptfe tube and allow the most smooth, least friction angle to go into the Ams buffer thus reducing the possibility of an error popping up)</a>&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:75.68%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/393216/2024-01-10_14c8811c47696.webp"></figure>&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/101046" rel="nofollow noopener">- V2 Ams Buffer Fix For Failed To Pull Back Filament Error (reduce wear on the external Ptfe tube and allow the most smooth, least friction angle to go into the Ams buffer thus reducing the possibility of an error popping up)</a>&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:76.45%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/393216/2024-01-10_6194006084695.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/53037" rel="nofollow noopener">- Ams Fix - Stack the Ams on tp (Using a carefully measured holder to hold the Ptfe in a curved angle that will allow filament to go through with the least possible amount of friction when the Ams is stacked on tp of the printer)</a>&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:77.35%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/393216/2024-01-10_e6ff2df6c7873.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/58543" rel="nofollow noopener">- Ams Buffer Ptfe Right Guide Mount Fix will correct and maintain a nearly 100% straight line when the Ptfe tube exit the Ams buffer to move into the printer extruder.</a>&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:78.46%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/393216/2024-01-10_f95cf24ce5c9e.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/85989" rel="nofollow noopener">- V2 Ams Buffer Right Ptfe Guide Mount - The Fix For Failed To Pull Back Filament a newly improved fix designed to replaced the V1 This will correct and maintain a nearly 100% straight line when the Ptfe tube exit the Ams buffer to move into the printer extruder. ez Installation. No screws needed!</a>&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:79.5%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/393216/2024-01-10_6ddf689393292.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/63021" rel="nofollow noopener">- Extruder Ams Filament Pull Back Fix will correct and maintain a nearly 100% straight line to move the filament in and out of the extruder. This will also reducing wear on the Ptfe tube. Its design allow the filament to travel in the most smooth, least amount of friction and pressure for the proper angle to go into and exit the extruder thus greatly reducing the possibility of an Failed To Retract Filament error or similar errors from popping up.</a>&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:82.04%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/393216/2024-01-10_4c9e59fa5529e.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/103987" rel="nofollow noopener">- V2 Extruder Ams Filament Pull Back Fix will correct and maintain a nearly 100% straight line to move the filament in and out of the extruder. This will also reducing wear on the Ptfe tube. Its design allow the filament to travel in the most smooth, least amount of friction and pressure for the proper angle to go into and exit the extruder thus greatly reducing the possibility of an Failed To Retract Filament error or similar errors from popping up.</a>&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:81.99%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/393216/2024-01-10_69d2ccb8ac279.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/67779" rel="nofollow noopener">- The Smooth 4 Way Splitter. Look No Further. Combined with Ams Hub Lite together with this small attachment, you will have the Smooth 4 Way Splitter.</a>&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:83.64%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/393216/2023-11-19_96f9eed020e9b.gif"></figure>&nbsp;<h2>Removal Video</h2><figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://youtu.be/8sDRKjJCU2U"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/8sDRKjJCU2U" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure>&nbsp;<h2>Additional Notes</h2>The error itself is complicated and non definitive. Whatever cause the error today might not be the same area that cause the error again, same with person A and Person B setup, as the error itself is mainly due to tension with friction triggering the sensors in the machine.&nbsp;I would suggest you download and try and install all my fixes together for the proper effect as together they will ensure a smooth delivery of the filament with much lesser friction (read write ups) and hopefully that will help and reduce or resolve the error. If you use only one or 2 of the fixes the error could still happen as there are still other area might still be causing excessive friction.&nbsp;

AMS Filament Pull Back Fix V2 Updated

Milololo

It uses a M5 30mm screw to hold the pen (you could use a shorter one)

ELEGOO Neptune 4 pro pen plotter

Yuro3d

S24 Ultra Dragon Case

handy

Biviyt

<h2>Description</h2><a target="_blank" href="https://files.printables.com/media/prints/515427/pdfs/515427-awesome-filament-spool-rewinder-upgraded-d523a60e-b4d3-4c7d-b3bc-d47c80f0d16a.pdf" rel="nofollow noopener">PDF</a>I love this awesome project from Miklos Kiszely, thx a lot for this design)But in my opinion needs to be improve.So I improve a lot things and found a lot improvements wich are already great I upgraded these also and bring it togethter into my improved Spool rewinder.The Awesome Filament Spool Winderits possible to use it manualy one or elecric drivenboth design are avail in this post. <figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://youtu.be/IYK-MNmUzak"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/IYK-MNmUzak" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure>&nbsp;<h3>Main Changes are:</h3>- Mainbody with 3 additional bearings , so it is a lot more stable and reliable-one additional bearing at the Main Body to guide the middle gear better.-one additional bearing at the Main Body to guide the axle much better.-one additional bearing at the filament carriage sled worn gear assembly-guides with slides at filament carriage sled to guidevit better and avoid a lift up-Spindle with Bearings, to avoid exessive wear and smoother work-i uploaded 2 Spindles one normal one for Bambu spools and a shorter for Sunlu and similar…-additional threaded Inserts on the top to fit the cover for the filament spool axle-the holes in the base of the main Body to fix it on a Table or some other thing..-the heavy axis 45mm with steel insert - put into the axle a 4mm hex wrench and cut it.. if used manuell-Filament Guide with M3 threaded Inserts and longer slides-the Spool center adapter to use every spool with inner diameter from 40 to 75mm for the spool holder-some M3 threaded melted inserts are added for a better usage.&nbsp;The Bearings for the Spindle are 6200RS2,I ordered these from amazon<a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.de/TAIANJI-Kugellager-Shielded-Rillenkugellager-Skateboard/dp/B097R6JCJM/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=kugellager+30x10x9&qid=1687974433&sr=8-8" rel="nofollow noopener">TAIANJI Kugellager 10mm x 30mm x 9mm Double Shielded Rillenkugellager Metall Kugellager für 3D drucker, Skateboard Roller Inline Skates etc(6 Stück) : Amazon.de: Sport & Freizeit</a>but you can also use the Printed ones which i added it works also good if your printer is good calibrated.<a target="_blank" href="https://youtube.com/shorts/8UOwlSL1i7s?feature=share3" rel="nofollow noopener">Spoolaxle with bearings</a>As Pinions and axles i used the great improved axles from Damian(thx for these)and i upgraded the Motordrive unit from Bird2Barin(thx for these nixe design) to fit it better to my upgreated Mainbody.To Bring it together I screw The Main Body the Unwinder Body and Motorunit on a Wooden Board 22cm x 50cm x 1,9cm<a target="_blank" href="https://youtu.be/IYK-MNmUzak" rel="nofollow noopener">https://youtu.be/IYK-MNmUzak</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;→all Parts are printed with 5 walls / 25% Gyroid or Cubic infill.→only the Axles and Spindle are printed in 8 walls and 40% Gyroid or Cubic infill.&nbsp;<h3>Partlist:</h3>&nbsp;<h4>for the Body :</h4>1x Awesome Spool Winder_.stl (Modified by Me)1 x axle cover driveside.stl (Modified by Me)1x axle cover other side.stl (Modified by Me)4x M3 Screw Knob (original Design)4x M3x6 Hexhead Screw8x Bearing 608RS24x M3 threaded melt Inserts&nbsp;<h4>For the Drivetrain:</h4>1x Bearing Cap.stl (Modified by Me)1x 25teeth gear (original Design)2x 50teeth gear (original Design)2x Hexa Axle 32mm (Modified by Me)1x Hexa Axle 128mm (Modified by Me)5x 3mm Spacer (Design from Damian)5x M3 threaded melt Inserts4x Lock Ring (Design from Damian)5x M3x6 Flat Head&nbsp;<h4>Spindle:</h4>1x Bearing Spindle Part1.stl (Modified by Me)1x Bearing Spindle Part2.stl (Modified by Me)1x Bearing 6200RS2, 30x9x10 or print a bearing →Printable Bearing (30x9x10)1x Screw M5x30&nbsp;<h4>Spindlenut:</h4>1x Bearing Spindle Part3.stl (Modified by Me)1x Bearing Spindle Part4.stl (Modified by Me)1x Bearing 6200RS2, 30x9x10 or print a bearing →Printable Bearing (30x9x10)1x Screw M5x30&nbsp;<h4>for the Unwinder :</h4>1x Unwinder Spool Holder (original Design)1x Unwinder Spool Spindle (original Design)1x Unwinder Spool Nut (original Design)1x Spoolwinder adapter +20.stl (own Design)1x Spoolwinder adapter.stl (own Design)<h4>for the Sled</h4>1x Gear linear for filament carriage.stl (Modified by Me)1x filament_guide_sled.stl (Modified by Me)1x filament_guide_carriage+slides&Bearing.stl (Modified by Me)1x Filament Guide V2(Modified by Me)(put a 12cm PTFE tube in the Guide)1x Worn Gear (original Design)1x Slider Gear (original Design)1x Hexa Axle 47mm (Design from Damian)2x 2mm Spacer (Design from Damian)1x 4,1mm Spacer (Design from Damian)4x M3 Screw Knob (original Design)1x Lock Ring (Design from Damian)1x Bearing 608RS24x M3 threaded Inserts&nbsp;<h4>for Manual Spoolwinder</h4>1x Manual Axis 45mm for steel insert.stl (press into the axle a 4mm hex wrench and cut it.. and a melt a M3 threaded Inserts in the other side.1x Rotary handle- twist grip - Handle -(original Design)1x Rotary handle - twist grip - knob - (original Design)1x Rotary handle - twist grip - cap - (original Design)1x Rotary handle - twist grip - axle - (original Design)1x Small Screw&nbsp;<h4>for the Motordrive</h4>1x Awesome Spool Winder Motor Housing.stl (Modified by Me)1x Awesome Spool Winder Motor Plate.stl (Design from Bird2Barin)1x Motor Gear (Design from Bird2Barin)&nbsp;<h4>Used Electric Parts:</h4>1x Motor: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.de/greartisan-Elektrische-Reduzierung-zentrisch-Durchmesser/dp/B072R5G5GR/ref=sr_1_2?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=2WWONFFFZ48FF&keywords=Greartisan+DC+12+V+550+U%2Fmin+Getriebemotor%2C+hohes+Drehmoment%2C+elektrische+Mikrodrehzahlreduzierung%2C+Getriebe&qid=1690061559&sprefix=greartisan+dc+12+v+550+u%2Fmin+getriebemotor+hohes+drehmoment+elektrische+mikrodrehzahlreduzierung+getriebe%2Caps%2C132&sr=8-2" rel="nofollow noopener">Greartisan DC 12V 550RPM Getriebemotor Hohe Drehmoment Elektrische Mikrodrehzahl Reduktion Getriebemotor Centric Output Welle 37mm Durchmesser Getriebe : Amazon.de: Gewerbe, Industrie & Wissenschaft</a>1x Speed controller: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.de/QWORK-Drehzahlregler-Einstellbare-Reversible-Motortreiber/dp/B09Q31VTR6/ref=sr_1_30?crid=2QGRDV1LBLTME&keywords=motor+speed+controller+12v&qid=1690061614&sprefix=motor+speed%2Caps%2C169&sr=8-30" rel="nofollow noopener">QWORK 1203BB 6V 12V 24V 3A 80W DC Motor Drehzahlregler (PWM) Einstellbare Reversible Motortreiber Schalter : Amazon.de: Gewerbe, Industrie & Wissenschaft</a>1x Power supply with 12V 5A<a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.de/TOBWOLF-TFT-Monitore-Anwendungen-Transformator-Netzadapter/dp/B07L5GP7SD/ref=sr_1_6?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=2F3KBGN8GISGV&keywords=12v%2B3a&qid=1690061713&sprefix=12v%2B3a%2Caps%2C139&sr=8-6&th=1" rel="nofollow noopener">Netzteil 12V 3A Ladegerät Transformator 3</a><a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.de/TOBWOLF-TFT-Monitore-Anwendungen-Transformator-Netzadapter/dp/B07L5GP7SD/ref=sr_1_6?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=2F3KBGN8GISGV&keywords=12v%2B3a&qid=1690061713&sprefix=12v%2B3a%2Caps%2C139&sr=8-6&th=1" rel="nofollow noopener">6W für LED Strip, LCD, TFT Monitor Power Supply Radiowecker, Externe Festplatte: Amazon.de: Elektronik & Foto</a>1x Socked<a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.de/Kabel-mit-DC-Hohlbuchse-5-5-2er-Set/dp/B00DO49OTM/ref=sr_1_4?crid=AQ99AE408OZZ&keywords=dc+5+5+x+2+1+mm+buchse&qid=1690061820&sprefix=5%2C5+mm+x+2%2C5+mm%2Caps%2C188&sr=8-4" rel="nofollow noopener">DC-Hohlbuchse 5,5x2,1 mm, mit 30cm Kabel, 2er-Set : Amazon.de: Gewerbe, Industrie & Wissenschaft</a> OrCleqee DC 5,5 mm x 2,1 mm, Gleichstrom-Stecker und Buchse, zum Öffnen des Endkabel, blanke Drähte, 100CM 22AWG, für Kameraüberwachung, LED-Streifen, DVR, Kabelreparatur (2er-Pack) <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.eu/d/4Mwv0Ln" rel="nofollow noopener">https://amzn.eu/d/4Mwv0Ln</a>&nbsp;6x M3x12 <figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://youtu.be/0TNrb30ErZU"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/0TNrb30ErZU" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure><figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://youtu.be/GMGo-BB4cPM"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/GMGo-BB4cPM" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure>

Awesome Filament Spool Rewinder - Upgraded

KYZ Design

This was originally uploaded <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/384997-honeycomb-storage-wall-hsw-bambu-x1cp1p-max-wall-p" rel="nofollow noopener">here</a>, check it out to see past makes and comments--Honeycomb Storage Wall's wall piece - remixed to max out the usable plate on the Bambu X1/X1C/P1P252x248 is the biggest possible but requires a bit of tinkering to print this, see here if you want to print this one: <a target="_blank" href="https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/knowledge-sharing/print-volume-limitations" rel="nofollow noopener">https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/knowledge-sharing/print-volume-limitations</a>Otherwise, use the 252x224 one (see the slicer screenshot for where to place it on the plate)&nbsp;Check out <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/11128021/collections/18964" rel="nofollow noopener">this collection</a> for my other Honeycomb Storage Wall models including framed wall sections:&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/253223/2023-12-10_f8b815429fd9d.jpg"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/253223/2023-12-09_19d31ded4922d.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;

Honeycomb Storage Wall HSW - Bambu X1C/P1P/P1S Max Wall Piece

home

Langa__

No more ash in the water... the water no longer gets dirty as quickly and is easier to clean&nbsp;14mm….suitable for the Bong in my Uploadsmade the lower neck a little longer so it would fit better

Ash Catcher

AMT_MW

<h2>What it is</h2>Small soldering jigs for LED strips that allow to cut and fix the then stripped cables in place. With a dab of hotglue or some heat-shrink tubing they may even stay in place to secure the finished connection.Available are:<figure class="table" style="width:84.47%;"><table class="ck-table-resized"><colgroup><col><col><col><col><col></colgroup><tbody><tr><td style="height:80px;width:160px;">5mm LED strip</td><td style="height:80px;width:160px;">8mm LED strip</td><td style="height:80px;width:160px;">10mm LED strip</td><td style="height:80px;width:160px;">12mm LED strip</td><td style="height:80px;width:160px;"> </td></tr><tr><td style="height:80px;width:160px;">2-pin<ul><li>2.4mm</li><li>100thou</li><li>133thou (=3.38mm)</li></ul></td><td style="height:80px;width:160px;">2-pin<ul><li>100thou</li><li>150thou</li><li>4mm</li><li>200thou</li><li>250thou</li></ul>3-pin<ul><li>2mm</li><li>100thou</li></ul></td><td style="height:80px;width:160px;">2-pin<ul><li>200thou</li><li>250thou</li></ul>3-pin<ul><li>100thou</li><li>3mm</li><li>4mm</li></ul>4-pin<ul><li>100thou</li></ul></td><td style="height:80px;width:160px;">2-pin<ul><li>350thou</li><li>400thou</li></ul>3-pin<ul><li>150thou</li><li>175thou</li><li>4mm</li><li>200thou</li></ul>5-pin<ul><li>100thou</li></ul>6-pin<ul><li>2mm</li></ul></td><td style="height:80px;width:160px;"><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:100%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/723103/2024-02-25_3f94f3f0071c7.jpg"></figure></td></tr></tbody></table></figure><h2>How to print</h2>Recommended for printing is a layer height of 0.20mm or smaller and a 0.4mm nozzle. The provided printing files feature modifiers for optional color changes. Since the clips are small they are prone to first layer issues, this design really benefits from printing it as KitCard. → Such printing profiles are provided as well.<h2>How to use</h2>Soldering wires to LED strips<ul><li>Put the cable in place first and cut the wires according to the line given by the jig</li><li>Strip the cables (or rely on melting the isolation later on while soldering)<ul><li>optional: place heat-shrink tubing</li></ul></li><li>Place the LED strip in place<ul><li>optional: secure it with the clips</li></ul></li><li>Place the cable in place<ul><li>optional: secure it with the clips</li></ul></li><li>Solder</li></ul>I tend to use the optional clips if a LED strip or cable is somewhat wayward, otherwise they are not needed. In case you want to fix a weather proof LED strip where the printed clips do not work, a clothespin, binder clip, … , cable tie (reusable?) works as well.&nbsp;Soldering connectors to LED strips (tested with Molex KK 254 and JST-XH 2.54)<ul><li>Clip the LED strip onto the upper part that houses the cable channels<ul><li>optional: place heat-shrink tubing before</li></ul></li><li>Place a connector onto the lower part with its pins facing the strips solder pads<ul><li>optional: one clip as endstop or rubber band/clothespin/binder clip/… to hold the connector</li></ul></li><li>Solder</li></ul><h3>What next</h3>There may be improvements and modifications based on feedback given here.Expanding the variety of variants is partially triggered by request, provided the required dimensions are specified. Maybe, take a look at <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/u/2797532051" rel="nofollow noopener">my other designs</a> ;-)

LED strip Soldering jigs

werkzeug

LoboCNC

<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/96198#profileId-102581" rel="nofollow noopener">Uhltimate's Disc Shooter</a> is an exceedingly cool bit of engineering. It uses a springy fork to launch a disk forward. The disc starts out in the center of the curved fork prongs, and when you pull the trigger, the fork is pulled back around the disc, forcing it through the springy prongs and launching it forward. The original model page has great details on how it works.&nbsp;Ergonomics: One drawback of the original, though, is that it takes a bit of trigger force to launch a disc, and it can get a little uncomfortable pulling on the trigger. So instead of pulling the fork back around the disc with an index finger trigger, this design pushes the disc forward through the fork with a thumb actuated trigger from behind, which is much easier to do. The resulting design is odd, but comfortable to hold and use.&nbsp;Performance: After completing my design, the first thing I noticed, rather unexpectedly, was that the discs flew a noticeably faster and farther than the original. Analyzing video of both versions, Uhltimate's design had a disc velocity of 20m/s, whereas my design came in at 28m/s -- a 40% increase. I also measured flight distances for mine of up to 15m.&nbsp;I think the biggest factor might be in different dynamics of the two versions. In the original, as the disc is being accelerated forward, the reaction force is pushing back on a movable fork, which has relatively little mass. So some percentage of the energy is going into accelerating the fork backwards. In my design, however, the fork is rigidly attached to the shooter body (and your hand) which are relatively massive, and hence, very little energy is lost in the recoil. (It's a conservation of momentum/energy thing.)&nbsp;The other factor I can think of is that in the original design, during the acceleration phase, the disc has a whole stack of other discs being pressed down on it, creating a bit of drag. In my design, the disc has mostly exited the shooter during the acceleration phase, allowing it to be launched unencumbered.&nbsp;Aesthetics: Well, the original looks like some sort of retro sci-fi weapon, where as mine looks like a water tower with a handle. I tried to emulate some of Uhltimate's design cues, but no doubt, the original is cooler looking.&nbsp;Update: After researching disc shooters a little more, I wanted to give credit to a <a target="_blank" href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:578799/files" rel="nofollow noopener">much earlier design from davedelay on Thingiverse</a> that is much closer to this design. Please leave a comment if you know of an even earlier version.&nbsp;PrintingAll parts should be printed in PLA. I used 0.2mm layers. The springy fork actually prints-in-place between the handle and the disc silo. The springy fork layers (from 57mm up to 61mm) should be printed with 6 perimeter lines to insure that the fork prints solid. You can print the entire model with 6 perimeters, but you can save time and filament by setting a Height Range Modifier in PrusaSlicer for just that range. Lastly, the body should be printed with a brim. The 3MF file I've provided has this all set up for you.&nbsp;AssemblyAfter printing, the prongs of the fork will be lightly adhered to the layers above and below the fork. You may be able to just press on the tips of the prongs to break them free, but you can also shove a razor blade or x-acto knife into the gaps at the tips to break them free.To assemble the arm, as shown in the 8th image, you will need a short piece of filament to use as a hinge pin. It should press lightly into place. You will also need a short (~25mm), thin (1.5mm) rubber band to loop over the back of the silo and into the notch in the back of the arm. If you don't have a really short rubber band, you can tie a knot in a longer one and cut it off, as shown in the last photo.To assemble the plunger, loop another short rubber band over the tip of the plunger and stretch it onto the gap on the underside. (See 9th and 10th images.) Start to insert the plunger into the back of the body, but before the free end of the rubber band disappears, loop it over the tiny hook at the bottom of the plunger slot as shown in the second to last image. The plunger should operate freely and spring back open all the way.&nbsp;LaunchingUse your thumb to pull back the arm and load up to 8 of the disc into the silo. Remember that the discs launch in excess of 60 mph, so be very careful where your point the shooter for your first test. It's very tempting to look at the end of the shooter to see how the disc comes out – resist this urge! And as usual, do not shoot at animals, pets, siblings, or anyone or anything that could be damaged by a 60+mph projectile.&nbsp;And please, do not use this outdoors. You will lose discs. A lot of discs. And we don't need any more plastic pollution.