Hulkosuka

MingGY

月球盒子 moon box

cool

emazzarol

<h2>IF YOU ENJOY MY MODELS, YOU CAN SUPPORT ME IF YOU&#39;D LIKE. VISIT THIS LINK AND BE GENEROUS. https://buymeacoffee.com/emazzarol THANKS UPDATE:</h2>If y&#39;all run into issues alignin&#39; that rear tube with the printer&#39;s poop exit hole, download the file “POOP DOWN PIPE CENTER” from the raw models, and y&#39;all&#39;ll fix that problem right up. <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000051225/design/2024-01-31_0d62768d4fd11.png">  UPGRADE: After noticing that some of you are experiencing issues with the lower curve of the drainage pipe, I thought of tweaking it in the hopes of solving your problem. The piece you&#39;ll need to reprint is named: “Poop Down Pipe Lower.3mf”.Let me know if this resolves the issue for you. Thanks!&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000051225/design/2023-12-18_9840ee4f87ac3.png"></figure>&nbsp;UPDATE: Hello everyone, following some reports, I have uploaded modified files:Let&#39;s talk about the drawer rails; now you have a right and a left file. Let&#39;s talk about the build plate supports; now you have both the right and left ones, available in 3 or 4 plates.&nbsp;<ul><li>If you&#39;re looking for an add-on for this dresser, check out this model: https://makerworld.com/en/models/65463#profileId-68830</li></ul>&nbsp;Hello everyone,My printing space was running out, and I had to find a solution. Also, the Bamboo X1C-style printers are making me hunch over while checking the print progress, especially if you have AMS mounted on the upper glass.So, I&#39;ve thought about a drawer unit to place under the printer, designed to elevate it by about 20 cm from the surface. This will allow me to store various tools and adhesives, spare parts, and make it easier to manage the poops produced by the prints.I printed everything in PETG. The printing parameters are as follows: Walls: 3 perimeters Bottom and Top: 3 perimeters Infill: 10% Layer Height: 0.2 mm.In the filename, if you find an &#39;x&#39; followed by a number, that number represents the times you need to print that piece. In the absence of &#39;x&#39;, the piece should be printed only once. To print everything, it will take about 6 days non-stop, totaling 4 kg of filament.Here is the material you need to complete the assembly:You will need 18 magnets and 60 screws as per the link. Screw M4 12 mm Magent 8x2 mmDrawer rails fastening:<a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.it/dp/B07VKYYT1H?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&amp;th=1" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.it/dp/B07VKYYT1H?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&amp;th=1</a>Drawer front:<a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.it/dp/B07WSBTYV2?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&amp;th=1" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.it/dp/B07WSBTYV2?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&amp;th=1</a>Poop pipe:<a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.it/dp/B07WSBTYV2?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&amp;th=1" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.it/dp/B07WSBTYV2?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&amp;th=1</a>Sliding drawer:<a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.it/dp/B07WSBTYV2?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&amp;th=1" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.it/dp/B07WSBTYV2?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&amp;th=1</a>For assembly, follow the letters and numbers marked on the top side of the pieces. To be clear, it&#39;s the side where the printer will rest after assembly. I didn&#39;t use glue, but the choice is up to you. I also applied foam strips both on the top and bottom of the drawer unit to prevent it from sliding due to vibrations.I remain at your disposal, and in the meantime, happy printing to all of us.&nbsp;<figure class="media"><oembed url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uJZnAmegGsQ&amp;list=PLiLeHVIsg9vZwcy3JsFvSgZ29S3Z3iHX0"></oembed></figure>&nbsp;<figure class="media"><oembed url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j9L8q71Pk3w"></oembed></figure>&nbsp;<figure class="media"><oembed url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JVBLWzgl5ow"></oembed></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000051225/design/91a7d842-e082-4548-9825-d813996f62b5.png"></figure>

Bambu Printer Drawers

Brad

A love sign with a Staffordshire Bull Terrier and a heart.

Staffie Sign | Love Staffy Sign | Staffy  Art

staffy

3D.Lab

Welcome to my adaptation of this fantastic design (https://makerworld.com/en/models/86474#profileId-92689). Inspired by the festive spirit of New Year's, I've added a customisable twist to it! The standout feature of this design is the modular clip system, enabling you to attach and swap various designs effortlessly. This versatility means more sustainable and reusable decorations for every celebration.Currently, the collection includes fun and timely attachments like '2024', a playful 'Loading...' sign, and a 'finger' symbol. Stay tuned for more creative additions! Included in this upload is the Fusion file for the clip, empowering you to create your own customisations.For the 3D printing enthusiasts: I've fine-tuned the print profiles for dual-colour printing, minimising colour switches to reduce print time without compromising quality. A huge shoutout to the original designer for laying the groundwork for the ‘Thug Life’ glasses. I hope you all enjoy this adaptable and fun design! Your likes, shares, and feedback are greatly appreciated. They inspire continued creativity and improvement.Happy printing and a joyful New Year to all! Please see original design for correct assembly instructions, otherwise it is easy to break.&nbsp;&nbsp;UPDATE 01/01/2024: A Heartfelt Thanks and Exciting News from 3D.Lab!Hey everyone!I can't express enough how grateful I am for all your support and the overwhelming positive messages about the model. A huge shoutout to those who printed and reviewed the model, providing me with invaluable insights on how to make it even better!I've noticed that a small number of you have mentioned the attachments fitting a bit too loosely with the original print profile. To solve this, I've introduced a new profile and included additional STL files for a snugger fit. Don't worry, this only affects the accessories; no need to reprint your glasses.An awesome tip from @429AND1 (big thanks!): If you're facing loose fittings, scaling the glasses to 101% seems to do the trick in fixing the attachment fit issue (take a look at the comments for more on this).And here's something exciting: I'm working on an emoji pack that will be coming your way soon!&nbsp;Cheers, 3D.Lab

Modular Thug Life Glasses - Eco 

4 josie

HaughtyGrayAlien

A wall mount for the Nintendo Switch Dock.Allows access to USB ports. Power LED is visible.Can be printed without supports except for the cut out for the LED, which I think does need some small supports (did for me, anyway).Attaches to the wall with 2 screws.It's a snug fit (deliberately), so calibrate your printer!

Nintendo Switch Dock Wall Mount

switch 

Longracks Labs

Mashup of Dry Pods and Desiccant tray models for using desiccant beads in AMS.&nbsp;v2 in Raw Model download includes update includes:<ul><li>Plate with DryPods (0 degree offset), and trays (same as v1)</li><li>Plate with DryPod at 30 degree offset</li><li>Plate with ‘skinny’ DryPods as needed (with AMS wear preventer, etc.)  </li></ul>Drop a Boost if you are happy with this print!

Dry Pods and Desiccant Trays for AMS

desiccant 

mail.iou

update 04/05/2024If you want a printing method that is easy to maintain, you can consider my redesign:Reverse Blade Collapsing Katana - Rurouni Kenshin<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/414234" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/414234</a>&nbsp;update 01/12/2024 This knife is a one-piece printed design. If you are not sure whether the filament you bought can print this work well, you can refer to my new creation &#34;Nichirin Samurai Sword&#34;. This work uses a split printing design to facilitate future maintenance and blade replacement. Nichirin Samurai Sword : <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/135353" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/135353</a>&nbsp;Reverse Blade Sword miniThis is a smaller version of the Reverse Blade Sword, with a total length of about 80cm, suitable for A1 mini printers or people who don’t want to print too much. If you want to experience the full size, please go to <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/111322" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/111322</a>&nbsp;Notice It is recommended to use PLA+ and Textured PEI Plate for printing. If the viscosity of the plate of your 3D printer deteriorates, be sure to use glue to increase the grip to prevent the printed part from falling off halfway and wasting filament.After printing, please remove the support at the end of the knife.<figure class="table" style="width:77.33%;"><table class="ck-table-resized"><colgroup><col><col></colgroup><tbody><tr><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/816156/2023-12-29_51c8c09c32f62.png"></figure></td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/816156/2023-12-29_60e68ce20b26b.png"></figure></td></tr></tbody></table></figure>Repair of fallen blades This work has been printed and verified on P1S, A1, and A1 mini printers and resized. It is currently tested using three materials: Bambu PLA, eSUN PLA+, and eSUN ePLA-Matte. The blade surface can be freely expanded and contracted without falling off. However, since PLA material is not resistant to high temperatures, if it is stretched and swung back and forth many times quickly, it will cause the blade to be heated and expand, causing the blade to be thrown out. At this time, you can repair it with a simple method. Please use a tape with high viscosity that is not easy to fall off, such as Acetate Cloth Tape. Stick it on the entrance where the blade falls off. The amount of tape can be adjusted to increase or decrease the size of the enlarged hole. Then push the blade down and plug it back into the entrance to repair it.<figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/816156/2023-12-30_59e2edca56a86.png"></figure></td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/816156/2023-12-30_9ae8cbf98f5af.png"></figure></td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/816156/2023-12-30_75ce6d29cda6e.png"></figure></td></tr></tbody></table></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;

Reverse Blade Sword mini ( Samurai Sword)

sword 

hako

smittyrn

I was getting a little lost trying to navigate around all the ever expanding number of riser models, so I thought I’d compound the problem and create one to add to the list. I was hoping to create something simple to print and assemble, with an area for LED lighting and a way to vent air through it, while keeping the same outside dimensions as the printer. After more trial and error than I would have liked, I think I ended up with one worth sharing.It should work on the X1 as well, but I only have my P1S to try it on. It will NOT work on the P1P.&nbsp;Hardware requirements:<ul><li>4 M4x16 screws</li><li>2 M3x20 screws</li><li>6 foot neon strip LED light (<a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B73VGSCL?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B73VGSCL?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1</a>)</li><li>Thin ½” double sided tape or glue</li></ul>The riser prints out in 4 sections that easily connect. You will also need to print out 2 shutters and 2 knobs. This can all be done in 6 prints. You might be able to print 2 sections on the same plate and do it in 4 prints, but it will be tight. I haven’t tried it.&nbsp;I originally had a 45 degree chamfer on the inside for LED strip lights, but found that they couldn’t make the turn on the corners and it would require cutting them and soldering the sections together. I had a roll of this LED neon strip around and it can bend around the inside corners quite well. It worked even better than I expected. I have the cable routed out through a notch in the riser and plugged in a USB power adapter. I'm sure it could be adapted to plug into the printer lighting as well.&nbsp;I ended up with some free real estate in front of the glass, so I added a couple of slots for hex drivers needed to change parts in the extruder assembly. I’m including blank sections that can be modified for whatever you would like to keep there, or nothing at all if you want.&nbsp;I initially wanted to add the logo as part of the main print, but the print time went up drastically if I wanted to do it in color. I ended up making an inset and printing some logo plates separately. They snap right in and can be removed easily by sticking a thin blade in the corner and prying it up a bit. I've included blank plates to download so you can add whatever graphics you want.&nbsp;Tips<ul><li>Normal supports work better than trees on this model; with PLA especially, they pop off nicely.</li><li>Use support blockers for the vent holes, they print better without them. Make sure the blocker is high enough not to interfere with the LED notch on the bottom.</li><li>On the rear sections, extend the support blocker almost all the way to the end. Failure to do this will result in a support plug at the end of the slot that you can’t remove. See picture.</li><li>The shutters slide in the side slots with the notch towards the rear. Line the hole up in the front slot and use the M3x20 screw to attach the knob to the shutter.</li><li>There's a 3mm lip on the inset area of the front piece. I tried a print with PLA and no supports and got a good bit of overhang stringing. It's useable, but I'd suggest letting it support the area. The PLA snaps off clean.</li><li>Assemble by snapping the front and rear sections together separately first, then connect the front and back halves and secure with the 4 M4x16 screws. Don’t forget to put the USB cable through the hole in the back before snapping the back halves together.</li><li>On the front sections, make sure the blockers don’t extend to the tabs on the end, they need the supports. Block the end of the small knob slot towards the front; it’s easier to remove the plug if you can stick something in there and pop it out. See picture.</li><li>Even with the weight of the glass cover, I found that the motion of the printer could sometimes shake the riser out of place. I suggest using something to hold it in place. Double sided tape should do the trick, it shouldn't take more than a few 1" square pieces in the corners. I used a few dabs on silicone sealant. It shouldn't need much, just enough to keep it from bouncing up.</li></ul>01/12/24 - Fixed problem with lid rocking. Provided cutouts for screws attaching the glass handle.01/16/24 - Added X1-Carbon nameplate

Bambu X1 and P1S LED Riser

riser

robocop

ncarrier25

This is a great little christmas village that when printed, lights up with the help of a little light from underneath