fr850026

ArtificerMakes

Simple alteration to Humebeam's brilliant model for a Silica Gel holder AND Hygrometer to build into a spool itself. This enlarges the flange so it fits onto larger holed spools, like the Sunlu ones many of us find ourselves with. The rest of the holder remains unchanged, unlike the other ‘Sunlu versions’ which are just scaled copies, which not only means it will comfortably fit the smaller Bambu spools too, but also it will still take a Hygrometer. Print as per the print profile in PETG or ABS/ASA for longevity+the ability to go in a dryer, or PLA will hold up fine in the AMS.

SUNLU Compatible Adjustable Spool Holder with Hygrometer for Silica Gel (works with Hydra AMS)

乾燥

ptesza

I rebuilt the model from scratch but the idea came from fafabienman. I added a pocket on the left side to put the BT-168 battery tester. Having the tester in the upright position also increased the storage capacity considerably. The bottom slope has also been reduced because it saves a lot of useful space. Otherwise this tester is very useful and can be purchased cheaply on popular online marketplaces. I also really like the original design and appreciate that such simple things can be popular.I used PETG for the durable part.

Battery storage for AA & AAA & BT-168 tester

電池

franceschellifederico

Introducing the Custom Car Seatbelt Buckle Adapter, a 3D-designed solution crafted to silence the intrusive and bothersome seatbelt alarm in your vehicle. This innovative accessory allows you to securely fasten your seatbelt without triggering the loud and persistent alarm that often accompanies it. Please note that while this adapter is designed to enhance your driving experience, its usage involves risks and may potentially compromise your safety. Use this product at your own discretion and responsibility, as the modification may impact the intended safety features of your vehicle. The creator assumes no liability for any consequences resulting from the use of this custom adapter. Drive safely and responsibly.

Seatbelt Alarm Muter - Drive Without Intrusive Beeping

汽車

Models

<h3>Description: </h3>Print the Layer Height and Adhesion Test to verify the accuracy of your layer height and adhesion settings on your Bamboo Lab A1 Mini 3D printer. This test print is designed to provide quick feedback on these critical parameters.<h3>Features:</h3><ul><li>A diagnostic test print that checks the layer height and bed adhesion settings for optimal 3D printing results.</li><li>The test covers the entire 180x180mm bed surface to assess adhesion across the full area.</li></ul>

Bambu A1 Mini First Layer

測試件

stifler.schito

Mini organizer for tools that are included in bambu lab's accessory box and other tools you can print like lube help or brush.

Mini tools box (Bambu organizer)

收納盒

Wolf3DP

This model is designed to let you build a custom little lightsaber with any accent and blade colors you want without needing an AMS! Accents either snap or screw into place and should be easily removable and swappable with new colors! It sounds very satisfying to deploy :) If you print with your own profiles, just make sure you print five of the Vertical Accents!

Mini Customizable Color Collapsible Lightsaber NO AMS NEEDED 

玩具

Mr.X3D

// Update 240630<ul><li>Redesign to fit on A1 Mini build plate. (Parts to big was split to “puzzles”)</li><li>Print profile for A1 Mini added.</li></ul>=================&nbsp;The idea to design and build this has been with me for a while, and I finally got the time to do it….&nbsp;What is it?&nbsp;This is a fusion of the Bambu Lab AMS Lite and the Filadryer S4 by Sunlu. First and foremost it will allow you to keep your filament dry and also print directly from the Filadryer but with AMS Lite capabilities. Second, you will clear up space on your desk (if you previously had the AMS Lite standing on it). You will also get a tray on top to store some stuff.&nbsp;<figure class="media"></figure>&nbsp;Lets get to it!&nbsp;My list of prerequisites were:<ul><li>All functionality of the AMS lite should persist.</li><li>All functionality of the Sunlu S4 filament dryer should persist.</li><li>No modification or damage to the original parts of both the AMS Lite or Sunlu S4 allowed. (reassembly must be possible)</li><li>No or at least minimal supports required when printing.</li><li>Only printed parts allowed, no additional parts (like screws, bearings, etc) should be required.</li><li>As much as possible of the design to be &#34;mirrored&#34;.</li></ul>All plates and parts needed are stored in the 3mf-file. I used a X1C to print the parts. I opted for ABS since it usually gives great durability and finish. It will most likely work with PETG or even PLA, but I have not tried that, and PLA might be insufficient in drying temperatures.&nbsp;For a smooth journey I would start like this and print:<ul><li>BASE A</li><li>BASE B (Exactly the same as BASE A)</li><li>CLIPS &amp; LOCKS &amp; PLUGS</li></ul>While printing, disassemble the AMS Lite. There are guides for this in the wiki:<a target="_blank" href="https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/ams/maintenance" rel="nofollow noopener">AMS Maintenance and How To guides | Bambu Lab Wiki</a>&nbsp;To remove the feeder units, unscrew the four screws that are attached to the main body and unplug the to ribbon cables from the mainboard. The feeder units does not require any further disassembly.When you have removed the motherboard (Details in the wiki), carefully remove the NFC sensor windings from the main body. Easiest way to do this was to use a screwdriver and bend carefully at each place where there is silicone, It is four places in total for each sensor.&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000155592/design/2024-01-24_a3d4f5fbdc08e.png">&nbsp;That&#39;s all AMS parts you need to disassemble. You should now have this in front of you<ul><li>First stage feeder kit</li><li>1x Motherboard</li><li>4x NFC Sensor windings</li><li>4x rolls</li></ul>Now turn to the Sunlu S4. The top covers needs to be removed. I was puzzled of how to to this but found out that if one cover is opened and then carefully bent, it would snap out from the chassis.&nbsp;When you have finished printing the first three plates print the following plates:<ul><li>LEG A</li><li>LEG B</li><li>YELLOW SPOOL HOLDER (x2 on the plate)</li><li>GREEN SPOOL HOLDER (x2 on the plate)</li><li>LEG C</li><li>LEG D</li></ul>(All LEG parts are exactly the same)&nbsp;Assembly of the SUNBU AMS LITE main body&nbsp;BODY A and BODY B will jack in to each other. Just pair the edge at an angle and twist them together:<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000155592/design/2024-01-24_ab52ec925e33f.jpeg">--→&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000155592/design/2024-01-24_785927e1c5f86.jpeg">&nbsp;Now find the following parts from the CLIPS &amp; LOCKS &amp; PLUGS plate:<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000155592/design/2024-01-24_f0e7b8cbb5b4d.png">&nbsp;Push the three H-shaped slips into the main body. You can use the rear side of a screwdriver for this. Or any other tool you like. Or just toyr thumb. Note that the clips have a chamfer on one side. That side is the one that goes into the model.<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000155592/design/2024-01-24_e8e15130f15ed.jpeg">&nbsp;Now turn to the two small 6x10mm poles. Drop one sideways into each of the slots on the top side of the main body. Use a screwdriver and push the pole into the next part of the main body. Press it all the way in.<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000155592/design/2024-01-24_a39dbaa46ddfe.jpeg"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000155592/design/2024-01-24_a57c1e7d4572d.jpeg">&nbsp;Now take the two &#34;lid-blocks&#34; and push down one in each hole<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000155592/design/2024-01-24_9e4e233ce63ba.jpeg">&nbsp;If you have finished printing the next 4-6 plates you can start assembly of the legs.While doing so print the following plates:<ul><li>FIRST FEEDER STAGE MOUNT &amp; MB HOUSING</li><li>SENSOR COVER A</li><li>SENSOR COVER B (Same as SENSOR COVER A)</li><li>HANDLE A</li><li>HANDLE B (Same as HANDLE A)</li></ul>this should conclude the printing of parts.&nbsp;Assembly of the legs&nbsp;From the CLIPS &amp; LOCKS &amp; PLUGS plate find the 4 squared lock-platesTake one LEG-part and slide it into the lock plates that you will have to put in from below. The easiest way to fit the legs is to start with one lock plate and just get it to attach enough to hold it in place. After that do the same with the second lock plate and finally slide the legs as much as it allows for. (Never mind the yellow cross below the leg, I did assembly in a different order that was not optimal)<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000155592/design/2024-01-24_825180773f66b.jpeg">&nbsp;Grab the YELLOW SPOOL HOLDER and push it through the first leg half<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000155592/design/2024-01-24_c0abec028a4b7.jpeg">&nbsp;IMPORTANT!The spool holders must be inserted to the correct leg half, otherwise to rollers will not be oriented correctly. If installation is done as in the pictures you will be fine!&nbsp;Now, push the GREEN SPOOL HOLDER through the second leg part<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000155592/design/2024-01-24_c514f6683f1a9.jpeg">&nbsp;Take the second leg half and push it to align with the first leg half.<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000155592/design/2024-01-24_13be645e3bec.jpeg">&nbsp;From the CLIPS &amp; LOCKS &amp; PLUGS plate find the 28 clips (4mm thick)From this point there is no turning back, you will not be able to disassemble the legs after this without drilling all clips so:MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE ORIENTATION OF THE YELLOW AND GREEN SPOOL HOLDERS CORRECT!&nbsp;If you have the main body laying upside down in front of you, there should always be a YELLOW SPOOL HOLDER on the top right corner.&nbsp;Put clips into the leg by pushing it into the holes. The clips have a chamfer on one side that goes into the leg.<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000155592/design/2024-01-24_7a028f944acf1.jpeg">&nbsp;When you have assembled one leg do the same procedure with the other leg.Note the orientation for GREEN and YELLOW SPOOL HOLDER!!!!!! (See complete assembly 3 pics below)&nbsp;Install the NFS sensor windings for each roll and pull the wire through the hole in the base plate.<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000155592/design/2024-01-24_b9bd81372a6ab.jpeg">&nbsp;Install the sensor covers by pushing them down into the shaft<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000155592/design/2024-01-24_99bcb5cad7926.jpeg">&nbsp;&nbsp;The result should look something like this:<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000155592/design/2024-01-24_622813e08e507.jpeg">&nbsp;Now, mount the original spool holders, It might take some convincing, but they will fit eventually…<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000155592/design/2024-01-24_8aa8596def4cb.jpeg">&nbsp;Add some rolls of filament, or don&#39;t. It&#39;s up to you, it was my way of getting the assembly to be able to turn over and rest horizontally while assembling the rest. A different option is to place it in the Sunly S4…<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000155592/design/2024-01-24_f21f65277dd82.jpeg">&nbsp;Attaching and connecting the motherboard&nbsp;There is a surplus of mounting points for the motherboard due to the mirrored design of the parts. Some of the surplus mounting points needs to be cut away (use a sharp plier). You will realize which ones that needs to be kept. The motherboard is mounted upside down.&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000155592/design/2024-01-24_733dde974bb1c.jpeg"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000155592/design/2024-01-24_d46dca89eac79.jpeg">Note the arrangement of the ribbon wires. (B/W to the left), And also the numbering I did on the motherboard. It is the corresponding sensor wire for the NFC sensors.&nbsp;We have now come to the point of mounting the housing for the motherboard. Locate the parts printed on the FIRST FEEDER STAGE MOUNT &amp; MB HOUSING plate and take one of the MB Housing parts, and slide it onto the rails of main body. Make sure to keep the ribbon wires out of the way,<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000155592/design/2024-01-24_4f7143f9474ad.jpeg">Do the same thing with the second mb housing part<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000155592/design/2024-01-24_f4299c08f864b.jpeg">&nbsp;Slide the two AMS Interface units into place<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000155592/design/2024-01-24_a93ba0933f5fa.jpeg">&nbsp;Screw the AMS first stage feeder assembly into place. make sure that the numbering of the feeders cohere to the numbering on the mainboard.<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000155592/design/2024-01-24_13fd979fcfee.jpeg">&nbsp;Assembling the handle&nbsp;Locate the grip lock and grip interface from the CLIPS &amp; LOCKS &amp; PLUGS plate:<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000155592/design/2024-01-24_2790f9516f092.png">&nbsp;I don&#39;t have pictures of this, but it is more or less the same procedure as when mounting the legs.Locate HANDLE A &amp; HANDLE B. They look the same (and are identical in design)<ul><li>Attach one of the handles to both grip interfaces by sliding them</li><li>Attach the other handle to both grip interfaces by sliding them</li><li>Locate the grip clips (x18) from the CLIPS &amp; LOCKS &amp; PLUGS plate</li><li>Push all 18 clips into the handle</li></ul>Now you have a grip assembly in your hand that should enable you to:&nbsp;Push each of the grip interfaces through the holes in the main body and use the grip lock (the bar) on the other side to keep them in place. I used a water plump pliers kind of tool to push the bar into the right place. As explained before, I initially did this assembly in a different order, hence no legs are present in this pic:<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000155592/design/2024-01-24_150e61e4525d3.jpeg">&nbsp;The result should look something like this (But with more clips installed):<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000155592/design/2024-01-24_6f44a4dd3dd77.jpeg">&nbsp;So, final touch. And yes, I know, it contradicts my prerequisites since it adds additional parts, but it is optional;<ul><li>For each first stage feeder, put a small PTFE tube trough the main body. It will simplify the loading of filament…</li></ul>There are some models on the CLIPS &amp; LOCKS &amp; PLUGS plate that you can use to plug unused holes in the base.&nbsp;Final Notes&nbsp;If you are to print TPU it is (as you most likely know) not supported by the AMS Lite. In that case remove one of the original rollers from the Sunbu AMS Lite and feed the TPU through one of the standard filament holes of the filadryer S4. The roll will then rest on the original rollers of the S4.&nbsp;I think I covered all now. If not, let me know….

SUNBU LAB AMS LITE 1.0

s4 ams

网吧掌柜的

小米米家空气净化器2改装风干架，方便吹干小件衣物，也可给打印机面板散热，万向轮孔距参照图片

小米米家空气净化器2改装晾干架

小米

user_3257010834

Rebuild from @Thomas_63847 model

Rebuild Silica Dry Box for Bambu AMS with Xiaomi Mi2

K-Studio.ca

<h2>A1 Mini Heatbed Cable Protector</h2>Original version did not fit the A1 Mini; I ground up made a new version for the A1 Mini regardless it is no concern of the cable kink or bend stated by manufacturer. It is still better than nothing to prevent the heatbed cable to get bend in the wrong allowance. &nbsp;A1 Mini will not share the same fate as the regular A1!&nbsp;Additonal model can protect your AMS Lite power cable here: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/104167#profileId-111236" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/104167#profileId-111236</a>&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:38.15%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/663199/2024-01-29_325604c4e03c58.webp"><figcaption>AMS Lite Power Cable Protector</figcaption></figure><h2>Profiles</h2><ul><li>Non-AMS Version</li></ul><h2>Disclaimer</h2>Print quality is base on your filament brand, filament parameters and environment; please take research for the optimal printing quality. Profiles are optimized to ensure text is clear, minimal banding and minimal ghosting.<h4>Tips</h4><ul><li>Clean the bed with dish soap (degrease).</li><li>Avoid touching the bed surface with your bare finger.</li><li>For non-textured bed, highly recommended purple glue application.</li><li>Slow down print speed for tall prints.</li></ul><h2>Updates</h2><h4>Version 1.0</h4><ul><li>Initial Release</li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:25.46%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/663199/2024-03-08_c0e376c3302bf8.png"></figure>

A1 Mini Heatbed Cable Protector

a1mini

starfalk

A desiccant box with lid for the Sunlu Filamantdryer S4I printed this in ASA to prevent melting. I think PETG should work too.Printable without supports.Please let me know if you have any issues

乾燥

電池

汽車

測試件

收納盒

玩具

s4 ams

小米

x1

a1mini

🤣