fatherban

XSvFury

Update: Added a new version that is compatible with both the K1 and K1 max. The cooling performance is unchanged and the old versions are still there if you prefer those. The changes are:<ul><li>Updated appearance - Like me, it looks better in person than in a picture. </li><li>Reinforced the top holes. - I had a break around one of them when removing the cover.</li><li>One file with for K1 and K1 max. This also makes for easier access to the Lidar port in case someone wants to make a remix with LEDs.</li></ul>Features:<ul><li>Better cooling than the stock cover for overhangs (all directions) and bridging. The test prints below were printed back to back with the same g-code. The difference is consistent with many test and regular prints. The air flow difference can be felt by hand (and seen if you want to put a cup of water underneath it).</li></ul><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/638933/2024-03-05_jlm2o45r7yvb.jpg"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/638933/2024-03-05_k0shz9c6vnb8.jpg"></figure><ul><li>About 33% lighter than the stock cover when printed in ASA.</li><li>Easy to print and requires no supports. Its been heavily tested as I have printed about 3 dozen prototypes and fixed any issues as I went along.</li><li>Easier to install and remove than the stock cover due to bigger clearances overall (particularly between the fan and breakout board connector).</li></ul>Notes: <ul><li>You will need to keep the fan on when printing high-temperature materials, including the first layer, to avoid overheating the cover near the outlets. <ul><li>I keep the fan at a minimum of 10% when printing ABS at 260 C extruder and 110 C bed. A lower fan setting may also work but 10% has not caused any problems. </li><li>Keeping the fan on is not necessary with PLA, TPU, or (most likely) PETG.</li><li>You can see many warped ducts in the last pic of the slide show. That was from trying to eliminate this problem. It was by far the most persistent and irritating issue and, unfortunately, keeping the fan on is only solution I found. On the bright side, attempting to eliminate this problem led to many other improvements.</li></ul></li><li>The cover may hit the auxiliary fan duct during the first homing pass. This has no affect on either the cover, the fan duct, homing, or printing. However, it may make a annoying noise at the end of the print.</li><li>Big props to <a href="https://www.printables.com/@Henlor" rel="nofollow">Henlor's K1 models</a> as they made the modelling and testing process much easier (its Henlor's hot end and carriage models in the CFD diagrams).</li><li>The test print is Teaching Tech's <a href="https://www.printables.com/model/180150-cooling-fan-test-torture-test" rel="nofollow">“Cooling fan test torture test”</a></li><li>If you are interested in the auxiliary fan duct in the cover photo, click this <a href="https://www.printables.com/model/695783-quieter-auxiliary-fan-duct-for-creality-k1" rel="nofollow">link</a>. It's quieter than the stock fan duct.</li></ul>Print settings:<ul><li>Model is in the recommended print orientation.</li><li>I recommend ABS or ASA. PLA and PETG may also work. The one time I accidentally printed ABS (260 C nozzle, 110 bed) with a PLA prototype, the cover warped at the top but the duct outlets did hold up very well (better than some ASA prototypes). Its also possible that I accidentally annealed the PLA cover. So, it could have been a fluke. </li><li>Ensure you get good layer adhesion. The model is meant to be flexible. If you print too fast or at too low a temperature, the model will be fragile.</li><li>Lowering acceleration (<3000 outer wall) will help keep the sides clean. Portions of the sides will vibrate when printing resulting in zits. That said, I have never print fail and any zits can be easily cleaned up with a bit of sand paper. </li><li>2 Walls at a width of 0.5 mm.</li><li>Layer height is fine at 0.2 mm or less. I use 0.16.</li><li>I get better results without supporting the 27.5 mm bridge at the duct inlet. That said, you can use a tree support if you wish.</li></ul>Please leave your feedback and enjoy.RickUpdates: <ul><li>Added a version that allows access to the Lidar port.</li><li>Added step file to make remixes easier. Please don't sell derivatives of my design. It started free, it should remain free.</li></ul>

High Performance Toolhead Cover for Creality K1 & K1 Max

创想三维零件

ZhangSheng

Print at 100% infill with a layer height of 0.08mm with a base layer of 0.16mmSwap Instructions:     Start with Black     At layer #16 (1.36mm) swap to White for the rest.&nbsp;STL files includes:120X120150X150200X200<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/639319/2024-03-05_1c55a29dfc00c.jpg">

East lady Hueforge dual colors

Dr.  J. Ma

Remake BetaFPV Pavo 20 whoop duct 3d printed. <figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/140989/2023-10-31_0a118a627612d.gif"></figure>&nbsp;Why 3d print the ductThe original whoop duct cost $4 but your printed one is even cheaper ;-) also with different colors and to try different materials!&nbsp;Pavo20 has a molded frame with PA12 material. It is quite heavy. Here is a free version of it. It is not reverse engineering the original frame but fleshly design. &nbsp;The original whoop weighed 13.8g. &nbsp;There are 2 versions<ul><li>Lite: single wall, weighed 9.6 grams, 4 grams lighter than original molded frame. </li><li>Strong: 2 walls, weighed the same as original whoop but stronger. </li></ul>&nbsp;Original frame dimension from BetaFPV website. <figure class="image image_resized" style="width:65.92%;"><img src="https://cdn.shopifycdn.net/s/files/1/1778/6615/files/1_b9a7b382-a2e6-4c5e-959b-eaa1df63e036_1024x1024.jpg?v=1695626159"></figure>&nbsp;Suggested materials:<ul><li>PETG-CF</li><li>PLA-CF</li><li>PC</li></ul>PETG has a very similar mechanical properties to the orginal PA12 but when it with CF, it loads much better. You can also try with PLA for prototypes. &nbsp;You will need 4 m2 screw inserts with diameter 3 or 3.2 mm. Use heat insert by soldering iron or screw driver heated by a lighter. Press from top until it is the same level as the plastic part. &nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/140989/2023-10-30_656118fd198e1.png"></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;

BetaFPV Pavo 20 3D Printed Whoop Duct (strong & lite)

模型

brody.bolanos

Bambu Lab P1P Cable Chain Assembly (1/9/2023)Designed a few parts needed to attach a cable chain, similar to the one seen on the X1. The chain helps keep the USB cable and PTFE tube completely inside the P1P, which is needed if you're going to use a covered top like the glass lid on the X1, also just like the way it looks!<blockquote><h3>Latest Update</h3></blockquote>All previous updates will be posted at the bottom. Update (5/9/2023)*Updated File - Cable_Chain_Frame_Adapter_Front_2C to 3C<ul><li>Added a 2 degree incline to the chain, which should help further prevent sagging. </li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/244401/2023-09-27_m2rkyvvgfhy4.png"></figure><blockquote><h3>Files</h3></blockquote>Main Files<ol><li>Cable_Chain_Frame_Adapter_Front_3C </li><li>Cable_Chain_Frame_Adapter_Rear_2D </li><li>Cable_Chain_PTFE_Clip_2B </li><li>Cable_Chain_Housing_Adapter_4A </li><li>USB_Cable_Cover_3E</li></ol>Alternative Files<ol><li>Cable_Chain_Frame_Adapter_Front_Inserts<ul><li>Uses qty 2, 5x3 mm inserts</li></ul></li><li>USB_Cable_Cover_Hygrometer<ul><li>Hygrometer - <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GNMKYCZ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GNMKYCZ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details</a></li><li>Most of the Amazon ones are the same, as long as the dimensions are 1.89" x 1.13" / 48mm x 28.6mm</li></ul></li></ol>Print File<ul><li>Cable Chain Build Plate</li></ul><blockquote><h3>Additional Parts</h3></blockquote><ul><li>Qty 1 : 10x11 Cable Chain - <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QLGWQ1L?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QLGWQ1L?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details</a><ul><li>Not needed if using printable version <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/23659" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/23659</a> </li></ul></li><li>Qty 6 : M3*6 (M3*4 should also work)<ul><li>If using the Hygrometer, you'll only need qty 5</li></ul></li></ul><blockquote><h3>Print Orientation</h3></blockquote><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/244401/2023-09-27_3jiot00vcj41.png"></figure>-Picture doesn't reflect current model numbers, use the letter to identify what is what. <blockquote><h3>Print Settings</h3></blockquote>DO NOT USE PLA, IT WILL BREAK. Please use PETG, ASA, PLA+ , etc. I used Polylite Pro PLA+, eSun PLA+, Overture PETGQuality<ul><li>Please see build plate file. </li></ul>Support <ul><li>Please see build plate file. </li></ul>Other<ul><li>Bed adhesion - use brim if you're having adhesion issues</li></ul>* To remove the supports for 4A, grab the bottom of the support that printed on the bed and pull it outwards and upwards, you'll need to use some force but it wont break anything. &nbsp;<blockquote><h3>Assembly</h3></blockquote><ul><li>Remove the tube anchor and PTFE tube ( I'm not using the tube anchor anymore). <a target="_blank" href="https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/p1/maintenance/tube-anchor-assembly" rel="nofollow noopener">https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/p1/maintenance/tube-anchor-assembly</a> <a target="_blank" href="https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/p1/maintenance/ptfe-tube" rel="nofollow noopener">https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/p1/maintenance/ptfe-tube</a></li><li>Remove the USB cable rubber bushing that holds the cable in place on the housing. <a target="_blank" href="https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/p1/maintenance/toolhead-housing" rel="nofollow noopener">https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/p1/maintenance/toolhead-housing</a> <ul><li>There's no actually way to remove it unless you want the cut it off so I just slid it to the other side of the cable </li></ul></li></ul>&nbsp;<ul><li> 6 x M3*6 </li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:75%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/244401/2023-09-27_fjmch9qxymva.png"></figure>&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:75%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/244401/2023-09-27_zp873er73fe2.png"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:75%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/244401/2023-09-27_u23hvj1o37se.png"></figure><ul><li>The cable chain should be 22 links .</li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:75%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/244401/2023-09-27_sukfy4vpwit0.png"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:75%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/244401/2023-09-27_lsn4q05vga59.png"></figure>&nbsp;<ul><li>Push the PTFE tube though the opening and out the back side & re-insert it back into the front housing <ul><li>I have about 2in of the tube sticking out past the part. </li></ul></li><li>Insert the chain housing adapter 4A into place<ul><li>Step 5 & 8 should clarify how to do this , simply press it into place . <a target="_blank" href="https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/maintenance/replace-typec-cable" rel="nofollow noopener">https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/maintenance/replace-typec-cable</a></li><li>The little side brackets face outwards </li></ul></li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:75%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/244401/2023-09-27_r2cb20s2ndta.png"></figure><ul><li>Attach the male end of the chain to 4A, open all the side brackets on the chain and put the cable in, close it up. </li><li>Snap 2B ( the clip) onto one of the chain links and push the PTFE tube in ( I have it on the 11th link) . <ul><li>I purposefully left the clip wider then the tube. During some testing it definitely seemed like the tube needed to be free of constraints ( especially in back right corner of the frame). The fit is tight as the clip needs to stay in place. I clipped it on horizontally then rotated it vertically </li></ul></li></ul>&nbsp;<ul><li>Lastly, attached 3E</li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:75%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/244401/2023-09-27_gzcr6mifrv0a.png"></figure><h3> </h3><h4>Make sure to recalibrate after the chain is installed. </h4>&nbsp;<h4>Alternative location for the hygrometer</h4><ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/23650#profileId-22261" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/23650#profileId-22261</a> </li></ul><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/244401/2023-09-27_823cer655uxs.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;If you like my designs and want to say thanks, you can buy me a coffee and help fund the filaments I need for prototyping. A donation of any amount to <a target="_blank" href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/brodyB" rel="nofollow noopener">Buy Me a Coffee</a> or <a target="_blank" href="https://paypal.me/brodyb10?country.x=US&locale.x=en_US" rel="nofollow noopener">PayPal</a> would be greatly appreciated!&nbsp;As always, given different printing environments, filaments, etc., prints may not work perfectly for everyone. If you are having issues please message or comment and I will try my best to resolve the issue.&nbsp;<blockquote><h3>Previous Updates</h3></blockquote>Update (4/25/2023)*Added file - USB_Cable_Cover_Hygrometer<ul><li>Per @xXSMOGXx recommendation I added a cable cover version that can hold a hygrometer<ul><li>Hygrometer - <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GNMKYCZ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GNMKYCZ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details</a></li><li>Most of the Amazon ones are the same, as long as the dimensions are 1.89" x 1.13" / 48mm x 28.6mm</li></ul></li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:24.86%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/244401/2023-09-27_nyboec1rn79g.jpg"></figure>Update (3/29/2023)*Updated file - Cable_Chain_PTFE_Clip_1B to 2B<ul><li>Shortened the height of the loop.<ul><li>Looked like it was getting to close to the underside of the frame.</li></ul></li><li>Improved fitment with chain.</li></ul>Update (2/8/2023)*Updated file - Cable_Chain_Frame_Adapter_Front_1D to 2D<ul><li>Simplified mounting hardware needed ( 6 M3x6).</li><li>Angled PTFE tube upwards slightly to help lift the chain. </li><li>Added a bottom support for the chain, big improvement on any sagging. <ul><li>See 2nd picture, chain stays horizontal when fully looped 180 degrees. No sagging.</li></ul></li><li>Integrated the chain mounting link into part 2D.</li><li>All screw locations are on the back now, no nuts or washers. Will be posting a version with threaded inserts soon.</li></ul>*Updated file - Cable_Chain_Frame_Adapter_Rear_1C to 2C<ul><li>Angled the PTFE tube downwards slightly, more direct path to the spool.</li></ul>*Updated file - Cable_Chain_Housing_Adapter_3A to Cable_Chain_Housing_Adapter_4A. <ul><li>Added strength, cleaner print. </li></ul>Revised instructionsUpdate (1/31/2023)*Updated file - USB_Cable_Cover_2E to USB_Cable_Cover_3E<ul><li>Updated sizing to fit my printable p1p cable drag chain design. </li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/385282-bambu-lab-p1p-printable-cable-drag-chain" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.printables.com/model/385282-bambu-lab-p1p-printable-cable-drag-chain</a> </li></ul>Update (1/24/2023)*Updated file - Cable_Chain_Housing_Adapter_2A to Cable_Chain_Housing_Adapter_3A. <ul><li>Reworked the tolerances to be a tighter fit between the printhead and adapter. Substantial improvement over 2A as it reduces sag in the chain, almost none now. Because the tolerances are tighter, there is a small “break in” period ( ~30 minute print) for the part to loosen and rotate more freely. </li><li>Added additional support to keep the chain bending radius at 18mm. “They are designed for specific bends and such as to not harm the cable, if you design a chain wrong it could damage the cable more than not using one at all.” . 2A included this but I added another stop which subsequently increased the rigidity of the part.</li><li>Increased the rings thickness slightly for additional strength and added small groves for easier assembly / removal of the chain.</li></ul>*Updated file - USB_Cable_Cover_1E to USB_Cable_Cover_2E<ul><li>Users were stating the fit was unessecerally tight so I reworked it to go into place easier.</li></ul>*Updated print settings for P1P OTA version 01.01.01.00Update (1/11/2023)*Updated file - Cable_Chain_Housing_Adapter_1A to Cable_Chain_Housing_Adapter_2A. <ul><li>Previously file 1A was able to rotate freely at both connection points. File 2A corrects this by adding a bend radius constraint of 18mm between itself and the cable chain. Without this the cable could overbend. </li></ul>Added file - USB_Cable_Cover_1E<ul><li>Covers the cable chain connection point to the frame and USB cable.</li></ul>Added file - Cable_Chain_Frame_Adapter_Inserts<ul><li>Alternate version of 1D that uses threaded inserts instead of washers/nuts.<ul><li>M3 x 3 x 5mm - <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D683Q26?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D683Q26?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details</a> <ul><li>Qty: 7</li></ul></li><li>M2 x 4 x 3.5mm - <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B094H1SRK4?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/dp/B094H1SRK4?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1</a> <ul><li>Qty: 2 (optional)</li></ul></li></ul></li></ul>

创想三维零件

画

模型

拓竹零件