92xx

Jackalolz

<h2>Blooming Lotus Lamp Shade</h2>G'day Everyone!Thank you for having a look at my submission for the ‘Let there be light’ Makerworld design contest.&nbsp;I would like to introduce the Blooming Lotus Lamp Shade. Inspired by my love for geometric patterns, this lampshade had the fundamentals of the mathematical pattern ‘Seed of Life’ or ‘Vesica Piscis’ equation with some tweaks. The result is a symmetrical and eye-catching design with strongly shaped shadows to throw flavor into your room.&nbsp;Update 08/02/2024: Changed existing printing profile to 'Mode 1'. Added 'Mode 2' with different mounting options.&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:85.54%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/508565/2024-02-05_a7f30d01aa121.png"></figure>&nbsp;This print is a large one. Here are some quick-fire facts<ul><li>Two printing plates with nine prints in total</li><li>45 Hours of printing</li><li>Over 1.2KG of filament</li><li>Push-fit joins - No glue, bolts or magnets</li></ul>The result is a 46.5cm squared wide lamp shade that is something to behold and admire.&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/508565/2024-02-05_92fc984350df9.png"></figure>&nbsp;Before continuing and especially before printing, I am going to identify a few hazards for your personal health and safety.<ol><li>Falling - The installation of this lamp shade was designed for lighting bulbs either hanging or secured to the roof. Please only use a ladder on a stable surface with appropriate footwear to avoid any slips or falls from heights.</li><li>Electrical - The lamp shade installation process will involve disconnecting the light bulb from the socket. Please ensure the light switch is turned off before attempting the installation process. If you are not confident please do not attempt to install this yourself.</li><li>Heat - Domestic lightbulbs can range from low to high wattage, the higher the wattage the more heat (usually). Please consider what type of plastic you wish to print along with what light bulb you will be using in conjunction with this lamp shade. Please monitor the heat of the lampshade post installation to minimize the risk of melting and possible fires.</li></ol>These disclaimers are not designed to stop you from printing. They are here to identify the possible risks in unlikely events and to better protect you and I from harm. With all that out of the way, on to the fun!&nbsp;<h3>Step One: How does it work?</h3><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:75.32%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/508565/2024-02-08_21e6d17e08f48.gif"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:75.23%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/508565/2024-02-08_5c582451eb309.gif"></figure>As seen in the quick GIFs above, the lampshade comes with two mounting options&nbsp;Mode 1: The circle mount sits snugly on the light bulb socket housing. When the light bulb is reinserted and secured the mount can sit on top of the light. &nbsp;Mode 2: The mount sits between the plastic housing of the fixture and is secured by the plastic screw cap MODE ONE RECOMMENDATION: I strongly recommend you measure your bulb housing and resize the mount object to the correct fit of your fixture. It is safer to have the weight rest on the bulb housing than on the bulb itself. A Fusion360 file has been uploaded to the raw files and is downloadable for all possible mount modifications.&nbsp;At the time of upload, the mount diameter is 37.4mm which is large enough to fit all bulb housings in my space. If you print my uploaded profile without making any modifications, your lamp shade will most likely be resting against the light bulb rather than the bulb housing. Temperature-resistant adhesives are another possibility for securing the mounting bracket to the bulb housing without making STL modifications.&nbsp;<h3>Step Two: Printing My Design:</h3>Pick your desired mounting option. Both Mode 1 and Mode 2 prints have models for PLA and PTEG options to start printing straight away. Plate 1 and Plate 2: PLAPlate 3 & Plate 4: PTEG&nbsp;TLDR:  PLA Printing Plate Mount: 40% Gyroid Infill, 2 Walls, 0.2 Layer with 0.4 nozzle  Arms: 0% Infill, 2 Walls, 0.2 Layer with 0.4 nozzle&nbsp;Following my uploaded design this print includes:<ul><li>Mounting Bracket Print Plate - 3.1 hrs with 64.5g used. Print once.</li><li>Circle Arms Print Plate - 5.1 hrs with 142g used. Print eight… (yes), EIGHT times combining a total of 41 hours of printing with 1.14kg of filament used.</li></ul>Note From Designer:Unfortunately due to my stock and the timeframe of this contest, I was unable to make this model in PTEG like I would have wanted. This model has been tested and printed in PLA. If someone prints this in PTEG before I get my re-supply please let me know any findings or issues that I can update this model with.&nbsp;Infill Options:Printing with my settings will result in the pictures found above showcasing the model. I knew I was a fan of the transparency and the crisp wall shadows, but you can let your design run wild. Here is an example of infill being used with the lampshade.&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/508565/2024-02-05_40b3dd41bb83a.png">&nbsp;Generating an infill will produce visual patterns on the lampshade. I am unsure if these patterns will show up on the surrounding walls of your room but feel free to let your favourite pattern run wild. From my experience, this test piece with 5% infill added an hour of print time so make sure it's what you want.&nbsp;I opted for the 0% infill for a few reasons; primarily the transparency and with wanting the lightest weight possible to reduce forces applied to the light bulb and bulb housing.&nbsp;When printing at 0% infill one thing becomes apparent fast. They are fragile! With only 2 wall loops selected 95% of this print is held together at a total length of 1.6mm!&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/508565/2024-02-05_f992f8dfeb2b8.png"></figure>&nbsp;When all is done, this is what to expect. More fun ahead!&nbsp;<h3>Step Three: Removing supports.</h3>This part is pretty self-explanatory. Feel free to follow along with the GIF.If printing 'Mode 2': The supports on the inside of the mount need to be removed.  I suggest a flathead screwdriver and prying it apart like a crowbar&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/508565/2024-02-05_e9b7e6e61b345.gif"></figure><h3>Step Four: Construction</h3>Follow along with the GIF or step-by-step instructions. Keep in mind that the arms are printed upside down. Please confirm the orientation of all pieces before combining them as the joins are extremely tight for a secure fit. Remember these parts are fragile, an error in construction may be hard to undo without damages!<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/508565/2024-02-05_0a495bad16594.png"><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/508565/2024-02-05_1105a2aa8b122.gif"></figure><ol><li>Place the mount into the middle of your working surface with the join sockets facing up. Take a single arm and carefully insert only the tip of the T-shape join into any hole, leaving most of the join outside the mounting bracket.</li><li>Grab a second arm and position it to the right of the first arm. Feed 25% of the end (opposite of the join) into the first arm cutout. Once in place, insert only the tip of the T-shape join next on the right to the first join.</li><li>Repeat steps for the next four arms in a clockwork fashion. Continue to the next step when you have six arms assembled and two arms remaining.</li><li>Take the seventh arm and feed the 25% end into the sixth arm cutout as you have done in the last few steps. DO NOT insert this arm into the mounting bracket.</li><li>Take the eighth arm and feed 25% of the end into the seventh arm cutout. DO NOT insert this arm into the mounting bracket.</li><li>With the utmost care - slowly lift the eighth arm up and over the first arm. Guide the first arm into the eighth-arm cutout. Once aligned, insert arms seven and eight tips into the mount.</li></ol>At this point, all eight arms should be evenly aligned with their T-shape tips inserted partially into the mount. If you are having difficulty aligning the arms, it may be the angle or depth of the arms inserted into each other. Please refer to the model pictures for reference.&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:40.37%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/508565/2024-02-05_017350d1543be.gif"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:69.35%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/508565/2024-02-05_166bb06ea061a.jpg"></figure>To finish construction:<ol><li>To avoid uneven pressure and breaks - Flip the whole model upside down onto a level surface</li><li>Using your hand, slowly apply even pressure onto the mount pushing down feeding all arm joins into the model. Do not use the arms as areas to apply pressure</li></ol>Thats it!  If you are having difficulty making the arms sit flush, feel free to switch to a sturdy cylinder to apply pressure with two hands. I did the same with a steel bottle seen in the GIF above.<h4>What if a part broke during the construction phase?</h4>I'm sorry that happened. Again, these parts are not only fragile but such a tight fit to avoid accidents. A break-even happened to me during my testing phase. My solution was to get an elastic band around the unit to keep pressure and apply a slim film of superglue. Not only does the superglue dry clear but with the lampshade being far away and towards a ceiling, the imperfections are not visible.&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:80.88%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/508565/2024-02-05_45d15612c1cac.png"></figure><h3>Step Five: Installation</h3>As explained at the beginning, this process will involve removing your desired light bulb and sliding the whole constructed unit onto the bulb housing. If the mount is not a snug fit, I again suggest downloading the Fusion360 file and making necessary adjustments to its size. Avoid making scale changes in slicer programs which will change the size of the joint guides.&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:79.6%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/508565/2024-02-05_f56cd2271087e.gif"></figure>&nbsp;Final Notes:&nbsp;Congratulations!! I really do hope you enjoy this lampshade and the beauty it holds. I will be actively checking comments and profile ratings and awaiting feedback for improvements. I am quite new to the 3D printing world only receiving my A1 printer in January so if any model improvements are suggested I will investigate.&nbsp;Contest Notes:As said before with my re-supply stock of PTEG coming, I also have some PTEG Translucent filament on order. It would have been my goal to print this in PTEG however due to the A1 callback, the announcement of all A1 users to stop printing makes me feel like I may not get the chance. If someone prints this in PTEG Translucent I would love to host your pictures in the model showcase with your username for credits.&nbsp;Thank you for reading and printing. I hope my prints can make your life a little bit more awesomeCheers,- Jackalolz

Blooming Lotus Lamp Shade

Bedlam Threadz

This is a Hueforge filament painting of Naruto using only 4 basic colors. The frame for all of my, and probably the vast majority of 200x200 prints, is <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/56304#profileId-57896" rel="nofollow noopener">HERE</a>.*&nbsp;This is a 4 color print that can easily be done by people with or without AMS units. If you have an A1 mini or any other printer with a bed smaller than the capacity to print 200x200 you can use the slicer to scale the model in the correct profile for your multi color setup just make sure NOT TO SCALE THE Z dimension. If you substitute filaments results will vary. This model is for personal use only.*&nbsp;IMPORTANT: READ BEFORE PRINTING*&nbsp;I have uploaded two 3MF profiles. One for people with an AMS and one for people with NO AMS.*&nbsp;To print with 1 AMS units all you need to do is load the colors in order and print.*&nbsp;To print with NO AMS unit you just need to do manual filaments swaps every color. The 3MF is set to pause at the correct layer heights. At each pause load the next filament color in order by following your unload/load procedure for your particular printer, then hit resume. Repeat until complete. This will be once per color over the entire painting. You have a decent amount of time between swaps.*&nbsp;Print at 100% infill with a layer height of 0.08mm with a base layer of 0.16mm. There are some recommended speed changes in my 3MF files and a layer height modifier to print the first 0.64 mm @ 0.16 mm layer height to speed up the print as there is no blending on those layers. If you don't use my profile set your layer height modifier after you have set your color swaps/pauses as it changes the total amount of layers once sliced or use the layer height value instead that number will not change ex. At layer #12 (1.04mm) swap to Blue Gray *&nbsp;Filaments Used: PLA PolyLite Black Transmission Distance: 0.3 PLA BambuLab Basic Blue Gray Transmission Distance: 3.1 PLA BambuLab Basic Silver Transmission Distance: 0.5 PLA BambuLab Basic Jade White Transmission Distance: 5*Swap Instructions: Start with Black At layer #12 (1.04mm) swap to Blue Gray At layer #20 (1.68mm) swap to Silver At layer #23 (1.92mm) swap to Jade White for the rest.

Naruto - Filament Painting - 4 Colors

摆件

3D Print Masters Hub

300mm Long Metric Ruler-Easy print-Please like and subscribe! More to come!-See bio for more exclusive print project ideas.🔥🔥 Check out my PRO MODELS HERE! <a target="_blank" href="https://cults3d.com/en/users/FabulousFilaments/3d-models" rel="nofollow noopener">https://cults3d.com/en/users/FabulousFilaments/3d-models</a> 🔥🔥

300mm Long Metric Ruler

工具

Bastel42

Türstopper, die die Tür offen halten, gibt es jede Menge. Aber hier gibt es einen Tür-Dämpfer, der den Schwung beim Tür-Öffnen abfedert! Wer hat nicht Kinder oder starke Menschen im Haus, die gerne die Tür gegen die Wand knallen? Bei uns im WC knallte der Türgriff immer gegen die Fliesen. Ein Türstopper am Boden brachten immer nur kurz Abhilfe, weil er immer wieder abwanderte. Ein schwerer Türstopper am Boden? Festgeschraubt?  Warum nicht einfach mittig an der Wand eine Feder anbringen? Also habe ich diesen Türdämpfer entwickelt, der den Schwung der Türe sanft abfängt. nur 3 Teile sind zu drucken:  Ein Teil für die Wand (Montage mit Klebeband oder geschraubt) Ein Deckel, der die Tür abfängt eine Feder - gedruckt! Auf Wunsch kann noch ein Filz aufgeklebt werden. Seither knallt hier keine Tür mehr gegen die Wand! Door-Stopper / Damper with printed spring stops doors from striking the walls Nachtrag: Halter zur Bodenmontage eingefügt: Einfach auf den Boden kleben. Türdämpfer einstecken, funktioniert. Bei der Montage den Abstand Türgriff - Wand beachten!  Nachtrag2: Weil einige Anfragen kamen, warum ich nicht einfach Gummi nehme - hier die Alternative in TPU: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/163524" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/163524</a>  Türstopper, WC-Deckel-Dämpfer und mehr in TPU - damit keine Türen mehr knallen!

Türdämpfer, Türstopper - mit Feder!, Door Stopper / Damper, Puck

生活用品

bwffuller

<h3>Overview</h3>I designed this model to mount into the walls of my filament storage box to save room.  You can fit about 1.5 cups or 300 ml of 3-5 mm dessicant beads in it.  I have not tested it with any different dessicants and it would likely not work with anything that is not round.  The box features a sliding lid and a storage frame, but can be used without the frame if you like.  &nbsp;<h3>Printing Considerations</h3>I printed all of the pieces in PLA, but any non-flexible filament should work fine.  &nbsp;15% infill or more is recommended &nbsp;No supports required.  If you do use supports on the box, it will be difficult to remove them from the sliding lid slot.&nbsp;I included mouse ears in the design to help with bed adhesion and as a result did not need to use a brim.&nbsp;Happy printing!&nbsp;&nbsp;

Beaded Dessicant Box 

盒子

jmaxime89

I have designed these PS5 skates for a buddy of mine. He was super happy about them so I am assuming they fit well enough

PS5 skates disk edition

游戏机补品

pbbence1994

My next kit card is based of my local airport's favourite plane the yellow Antonov An-2. Cut the parts out with pliers or nail sissors. The assembly is easy and self explanatory. Have fun printing it!<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/465189/2024-01-20_b304a86656c44.jpg"><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/465189/2024-01-20_e2371b636ae4e.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;

Plane Kit card (Antonov An-2)

玩具类

Purifier

Wall fixation 2 in 1 for AMS lite + external A1/A1 mini spool&nbsp;in picture, i adapted the fixation for my wall

AMS Lite + External Spool Wall Support 2 in 1

打印机补品

Jorge Rui

<h2>Introduction</h2>This desktop module embodies simplicity and functionality, harmonizing clean lines with a contemporary color palette. Its versatile design seamlessly integrates into any environment, making it suitable for both desk and shelf placements, allowing you to curate and organize with style.The thoughtful details elevate its functionality, including discreetly integrated magnets within the lid, designed exclusively for securing paper clips. This module serves as a practical organizational tool and adds a touch of modern elegance to your workspace or decor setting.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/433460/2024-01-21_8ed65577c9e71.jpg"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/433460/2024-01-21_9d8714c1f4ed4.jpeg"></figure><h2>Print details</h2>From a printing perspective, I took great care in designing it to be inclusive, ensuring compatibility with all bambulab printer models. While having an AMS unit facilitates the experience, it's important to note that it's not mandatory.Despite the availability of color options, where an AMS unit can be particularly helpful, it's worth mentioning that you can still print in color without one; however, it may require a bit more patience on filament swapping.&nbsp;The larger bases are also connected through magnets that are embedded in the side walls. Precision is crucial during assembly, ensuring that the two halves attract each other. Careful attention to placement is required to achieve a secure and seamless connection.&nbsp;<h3>The material</h3>The material I've used in this project is bambulab <a target="_blank" href="https://shrsl.com/4cvrb" rel="nofollow noopener">PLA Matte</a><ul><li>Mandarin Orange (very nice color)</li></ul>and two already classical colors of choice:<ul><li>Ivory White</li><li>Ash Grey</li></ul>For the magnets:<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/3SqQU0I" rel="nofollow noopener">10x small neodymium magnets with 6x2.65</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/3SqQU0I" rel="nofollow noopener">3x neodymium magnets with 10x3mm.</a></li></ul><h3>"New" technic</h3>To conclude, and as is often the case in my projects, I incorporate a new technique. Although I've mentioned it several times before, I have not yet implemented it—specifically, I'm referring to the use of dedicated <a target="_blank" href="https://shrsl.com/4ctb1" rel="nofollow noopener">support material for PLA</a>. I believe this addition truly makes a significant difference in the final quality of the piece, nearly eliminating marks left by support structures and greatly easing their removal.Certainly, it's not the most budget-friendly option, but it will endure for a long, long time. With careful use, especially when applied to the interface layers between the supported walls and the supporting structures.&nbsp;All the links for the material are affiliated with bambulab. It will cost you the same, and I will receive a small help to support this free work&nbsp;

Office desktop module 2024

收纳

Wojciech Kawa

&nbsp;<figure class="table" style="width:100%;"><table style="background-color:hsl(0, 0%, 100%);border:2px dotted hsl(30, 75%, 60%);"><tbody><tr><td>Update! I added a version with strong top fasteners. If you think that standard hooks are too weak and may break, print a version with reinforced fasteners. You will see details in the photos below.</td></tr></tbody></table></figure>A funny face on the front of the extruder that rolls one eye while printing. Let me know if the print was successful and if everything fits. If any corrections need to be made, let me know. If you have printed it, please leave a rating. Before installation, the original front and the rotating element must be dismantled. During installation, the eye should be pressed as far as it will go. After putting the face, the eye should be flush with the face or deeper. When assembling, make sure that the top latches are flush with the top edge before pressing from the front. <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/it/u/3316073328" rel="nofollow noopener">See my other projects.</a>&nbsp;Assembly instructions below.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/328891/2023-12-19_a1ede8a515cf8.jpg"></figure><h3>Version with strong top fasteners.</h3><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/328891/2023-12-30_15abccd4d578e.png"></figure>

灯

摆件

工具

生活用品

盒子

游戏机补品

玩具类

打印机补品

收纳

创意