evan3585

3DMN

If you appreciate my work, give it a like, and if you love it, consider buying me a coffee to show your support! <a target="_blank" href="https://www.paypal.com/donate?hosted_button_id=BC7SWTMZG92TG" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.paypal.com/donate?hosted_button_id=BC7SWTMZG92TG</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;Check out my other Hogwarts model: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/134009#profileId-145435" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/134009#profileId-145435</a> &nbsp;&nbsp;Step into the enchanting world of Harry Potter with our meticulously crafted Hogwarts Castle model! This exquisite replica captures the magic of J.K. Rowling&#39;s wizarding world with precision and attention to detail, making it a must-have for every Potterhead.&nbsp;Standing at an impressive x200 y185 z104, this Hogwarts model is a true testament to the grandeur of the iconic wizarding school. Every turret, tower, and spire has been faithfully recreated, allowing you to bring the mystical charm of the castle into your own space.&nbsp;Whether you&#39;re a collector seeking the centerpiece of your Harry Potter memorabilia or a fan looking to add a touch of magic to your home, Immerse yourself in the wizarding realm and marvel at the intricacies of the magical world with this stunning representation.&nbsp;&nbsp;

Harry Potter Hogwarts

movies

InaniaEtVana

Detachable air hose adapter for quick switching of 100mm air hoses. Can be used to connect two hoses, or connect a an air hose to the lid of an Elegoo Saturn 3 (ultra) resin printer using the adapter. Needs 8 6x2mm magnets (same as Gridfinity). The Saturn 3 adapter also needs and additional 4 m3 heated inserts to connect the adapter to the lid using the original m3 bolts.

Detachable magnetic hose connector

resin

tellus1019

Created a spool mount for AMS that can be folded.*The original Foldable Side Spool Mount can be found here.https://makerworld.com/ja/models/46934&nbsp;If your AMS is mounted on top of your 3D printer, this is easier and provides better results than the original Foldable Side Spool Mount.This is useful when using TPU filaments and other materials that are not recommended for use in AMS.&nbsp;Easy and quick printing! Very space saving! Great ease of use!&nbsp;To assemble, you will need the following *It will be less than the original.&nbsp;Bolt M4x45 Bolt M3x6(x2) Nut M3(x2)

Foldable Side Spool Mount for AMS - Bambu Lab X1C / P1S

AMS upgrades

Tridense

This bust of Hercules originates from the Farnese type.The Farnese Hercules is a colossal marble statue, most likely a Roman copy of a much older Greek bronze from the fourth centuy BC. The enlarged version, now the most famed, was made for the Baths of Caracalla in Rome (dedicated in 216 AD) where the statue was recovered in 1546 and is now on display inthe Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Naples. The sculpture depicts a muscular, yet weary, Hercules leaning on his club, which has the skin of the Nemean lion draped over it. In myths about Hercules, killing the lion was his first task. He has just perfomed one of the last of The Twelve Labours, which is suggested by the apples of the Hesperides he holds behind his back.The type was well known in antiquity, and among many other versions a Hellenistic or Roman bronze reduction, found at Foligno is in the Musée du Louvre. A small Roman marble copy can e seen in the Museum of the Ancient Agora, Athens.

Bust of the Farnese Hercules

Busts

waltersworld3d

<a target="_blank" href="https://www.patreon.com/waltersworld" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.patreon.com/waltersworld</a>&nbsp;Be sure to check out our Patreon for all newly released models, monthly giveaways, and the opportunity to have models designed custom for you&nbsp;Well, what really needs to be said that he won&#39;t say in the most offensive and uncomfortable way possible? I&#39;ve made A LOT of these and decided to share this with all of you. :)&nbsp;Yes, it makes a lot of poop. Yes, it will take you days to make. #WorthIt.&nbsp;Just uploaded his upcoming co-star for Deadpool 3 in his earlier days, Weapon X! Wolverine coming in a few days!&nbsp;I sand the pegs on the pelvis that go into the leg sockets for better fit. Same with the sockets on the arms, but don&#39;t sand too much, otherwise they&#39;ll become loose. Everything else should be pretty self-explanatory! Make sure you calibrate your filament first, as the tolerances on the sword blades for the handles and going into the holders is very, very small.&nbsp;Check out my other stuff if you like what you see. :) Enjoy!&nbsp;4/8: Updated to make arms tighter and guns more snuggly fitting into the hands, and leg socket size increases.

Brick Deadpool

Legos

Adam L

Change list:<ul><li>10/8/23 round 2: Updated profile purge volumes and 3MF files.</li><li>10/8/23: Updated to v16, with a chamfer tweak to the model to aid testing, and fixed print profiles to be better.</li></ul>&nbsp;Multi-material systems are great for many things, but one of the most powerful things they can be used for is near-pefect supports, particularly with the popular PLA/PETG combination. Many people are scared to try this… and I want to help you succeed.Support Magic is a 3D model that has multiple different tests and is designed to be used with mixed-material supports. A typical example is the PLA/PETG combination, although many others are possible. Such “breakaway” supports offer typically excellent finish quality because of the dissimilar materials, and the fact that you can print with no Z-gap.Support Magic tests the quality of your support material setup between the two materials by testing the removal, durability, and surface finish of each section. Support Magic can help you achieve perfect supports with easy removal and without scarring for your 3D printing projects.&nbsp;Bambu Slicer Users:I've done the settings work for you for a good print already. I provide 2 example files,<ul><li>PLA-supporting-PETG </li><li>PETG-supporting-PLA </li></ul>However, be sure to select the right filament profiles for your filament in your slicer. My example files and print profiles use generic PLA/PETG settings. In theory changing the two filament profiles in your slicer are all you should need to change for a good print, as the rest of the process profile settings should be good. If you've not tuned your filament, it may not work well. But test and find out! &nbsp;<h4>Key tips for success:</h4><ol><li>Use a slicer that allows for using a different material for interface supports. Bambu Slicer and Orca Slicer are good examples. Examples for Bambu Slicer are included for PLA/PETG (and vice-versa).</li><li>Start with known working combinations like PLA/PETG, Breakaway Support/PLA, etc.</li><li>If using PLA/PETG, find the highest-printing-temperature PLA you have. I find Sunlu PLA+ works great here, but many will be fine. This is to avoid any jams.</li><li>Use the right settings:<ol><li>Make sure your filament profiles are setup correctly and tuned ahead of time!</li><li>Set layer interface Z gaps to 0 (both top and bottom).</li><li>Set the Bottom Pattern Spacing to 0. (only OrcaSlicer has this option.. Bambu Slicer uses 1 setting for top/bottom).</li><li>Set the Top Interfacing Spacing to 0.</li><li>Set Base Pattern + Interface Pattern to Rectilinear</li><li>Set your filament for supports explicitly, where your Support/raft base == model filament type. For example, if printing the model in PLA, and interface in PETG, your settings should look like this: </li></ol></li><li>For PLA/PETG, in particular, to avoid extruder jams: <ol><li>Set the bed to the lowest temperature you can afford with good adhesion (~65-70). This will minimize jamming, particularly with PLA supports for PETG prints.</li><li>If your printer is enclosed, open the doors and/or vent the top of the printer by taking the top off (for Bambu printers).</li></ol></li><li>Multiple different styles of support work fine, but the I find that Paint-on supports, with Normal (not tree) and “Snug” style often work well.</li><li>A note on purge volumes & strength: Lower purge volumes can cause issues with layer adhesion, particularly when switching back to the main model filament. Accordingly, you may wish to increase the purge volume when switching back to the "main" (model) filament from the support interface filament. This will ensure you've got rid of most of the other filament and will have strong layer bonding. My profiles here have left defaults.. but some people suggest you may wish to use numbers as high as 600-700 if you are concerned about the next layer's Z-bonding strength. For example, if your main filament were black w/ green PETG as support, you might set the matrix like this: </li></ol><figure class="image image_resized image-style-align-center" style="width:44.61%;"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/606939/rich_content/63c89cd3-27c0-46e6-9c30-0c6f92059370/image.png#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%225dfdfacd-6479-4d33-ad4e-d5ded963e79f%22%2C%22w%22%3A451%2C%22h%22%3A339%7D"></figure>

Support Magic: A Support Test Optimized for Dual Material Printing

PETG

Holidays gifts

Squish3D

Do NOT adjust the thickness (Z) in your slicer!! The layers will not come out right. You CAN adjust the other dimensions (X,Y) though to make it bigger or smaller, just not the thickness.&nbsp;These were my settings and colors for my print that you see in the picture. Your results may vary depending on the filament you use and if you have your own HueForge profile saved with different settings.&nbsp;Print at 100% infill with a layer height of 0.08mm with a base layer of 0.16mm&nbsp;Nozzle: 0.4&nbsp;Filaments Used: PLA Sunlu Black Transmission Distance: 0.6 PLA BambuLab Basic Blue Gray Transmission Distance: 3 PLA PolyLite Aqua Blue Transmission Distance: 2.5 PLA Sunlu White Transmission Distance: 5&nbsp;Swap Instructions: Start with Black At layer #25 (2.08mm) swap to Blue Gray At layer #31 (2.56mm) swap to Aqua Blue At layer #32 (2.64mm) swap to White for the rest

SpiderMan Venom Symbiote - HueForge

HuForge

MikeGTP

I designed this little shelving system to hold rolls of filament.&nbsp;No Hardware Required! All 3d Printed Parts!&nbsp;**UPDATE 1/07/24! I added a Stability & Connection Package! It allows you to add stability and connect multiple towers togetherDownload it here <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/128634#profileId-139327" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/128634#profileId-139327</a><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:33.79%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/377559/2024-01-07_f4977caec05b9.jpg"></figure><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/377559/2024-01-07_52fcdd3f6e021.jpg">&nbsp;**UPDATE 1/09/24! I added a Tool/Parts Tray that mount directly on top of the shelf system!Downloaded it here! <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/131452#profileId-142595" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/131452#profileId-142595</a>&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:37.07%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/377559/2024-01-09_09d133952de3e.jpg"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:36.14%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/377559/2024-01-09_ba5b7b4a038dd.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;Some people do not have floor space, or maybe they live in an apartment and cannot adhere things to the wall.This is nice if you have some table space, it would even work on the floor.It allows you to grab a roll from the middle of your pile without toppling, or having to hold the other rolls.Each roll has its own shelf.&nbsp;Not everybody has 150 rolls of filament and needs massive commercial shelving&nbsp;You can stack them one tower tall, or make as many smaller towers that you want&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;There are only 4 individual parts.&nbsp;Easy Assembly!&nbsp;<ol><li>Start off with 4 FEET</li><li>1 SHELF</li><li>4 POSTS</li><li>1 SHELF</li><li>Repeat until you are satisfied with the height, and then you screw on 4 POST TOP CAPS</li></ol>DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!!&nbsp;I printed all of this at .20 Layer Height 20% Gyroid, 6 side walls and 5 top and bottom&nbsp;ENJOY!&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/377559/2024-01-06_372ee89eca09c.jpg"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/377559/2024-01-06_12e4c0c2f17c9.jpg"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/377559/2024-01-06_44b2afd09109a.jpg"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/377559/2024-01-06_8c11222cd85a7.jpg"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/377559/2024-01-06_f676ba7b6233d.jpg"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/377559/2024-01-06_24ea10bd1b6bc.jpg"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/377559/2024-01-06_39e1cdd6fa1ca.jpg"></figure>

Filament Spool Shelf System Customizable! No Hardware Needed MB Micro

Shelves and things

AteCzek

Hello ,Tokens for ANKH board game - you can gkue two of them if you want to have double side.&nbsp;

Ankh Resource Follower token

board game

computerstar2000

A nice simple but elegant wall mount bracket for the 2nd generation Playstation camera as used in the PS4's PSVR.The bracket comes in two parts, one left and one right, the both have square holed in the bracket arms for feeding the cable through to your console.The retention arms for the camera are a friction fit, however this ensures the camera is held tightly but still allows you to rotate the camera to adjust its viewing angle for the best VR experience.The arms also have small chamfers in them. This means that if the arms are slightly flexed outwards, you can slide the camera up and out of its mounts.Of course, they also have the classic PS logo on the sides.IN my case, i sprayed them arms in gray primer and then used standard wall paint to match them to my wall colour.Category: Video Games

Playstation PSVR Camera Wall Mount/Bracket

games

Darrare

Has 4 slots to fit build plates onto your honeycomb storage wall

Bambu build plate holder for HSW

honeycomb

Encrust3d

1/26/2026 update: u/Flyrockets informed me of an error that is occurring on Firmware 01.01.50.24 (beta tester firmware) that the nozzle will hit the build plate aligner after the third layer and cause an error, causing the print to stop. I have updated this design to lower the aligner to be 0.5mm above the Textured PEI build plate vs the 3mm it was previously. This shouldn't cause any errors as the third layer should be over 0.5mm in most cases, but I do not have the 01.01.50.24 firmware to confirm. Please let me know if you experience any errors while using this updated design and I will update it again. To easily remove your build plate aligner and update to the new one, remove the old build plate aligner starting with the lober side and simply push it down and off the heat bed.&nbsp;If you are enrolled in the beta firmware program with Bambu, please check your printer firmware before printing. If you are enrolled in the beta firmware program with Bambu, you will need the updated design. If you are not part of the beta firmware program, the original design will work great for you if your firmware is 01.01.01.00 (stock firmware)&nbsp;This is a guide for aligning the build plate on the Bambu Lab A1 printer I designed in Fusion 360. I have been having problems getting my build plate perfectly straight on my new A1 printer so I designed this to clip on to the right rear corner of the A1 heatbed to help align the build plate. This build plate aligner prints in less than 20 minutes and uses less than five grams of filament. This design has been tested to ensure it does not interfere with bed leveling or nozzle cleaning. This design needs to be printed in the orientation I have uploaded it in for proper fit.&nbsp;You can not mirror this design and use it on the left rear side of the bed. The nozzle will hit it when changing filaments or cleaning the nozzle and cause the print to stop.&nbsp;Printing in PLA works, but PETG is the better material to use for this aligner. If you find this model to be a little loose, it is to ensure it can be removed from your bed if you do not want it on anymore. I had numerous versions of this that fit perfectly but had to be cut off to be removed. I do not want you to have to cut this off of your printer if you want it removed.&nbsp;If you are interested in a A1 heatbed cable support clip, you can download it here: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/118957#profileId-127976" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/118957#profileId-127976</a>&nbsp;

A1 Build Plate Aligner

A1 upgrades

Julia Ebert

This is a model of my own brain, created from an MRI scan. It includes the cortex, cerebellum, brain stem, and corpus callosum. I also made a stand for nicely displaying my brain like a museum exhibit.&nbsp;I also cleaned up the model for better printing, including reducing the internal geometry for better printing with less filament. If you want to read more about how I created this, you can <a target="_blank" href="https://docs.juliaebert.com/projects/3d-print-brain" rel="nofollow noopener">read the details on my website</a>.<h3>Printing Instructions</h3>These files are high-resolution, and therefore pretty large. It might take the slicer a bit of time to uncompress the 3MF files and slice the model. Also, most of this model prints on supports, so good bed adhesion is essential. The support design comes from <a target="_blank" href="https://twitter.com/FilamentFrenzy/status/1464984048162455554/photo/1" rel="nofollow noopener">this Filament Frenzy tweet.</a> (This is an improvement on the support design that I used for the version in the photos.)&nbsp;Warning: These take a long time to slice because of the complexity of the models and supports.<h4>Full-sized brain, in halves</h4>This model is designed to be printed in halves, with supports, and each half has a pause to insert magnets that will hold the brain hemispheres together. The included 3MF files should have these pauses and supports already included. Printing through Bambu Studio/Bambu Handy will pause correctly, but not when printing through Octoprint (in that case, you should print directly from SD card/USB drive.)&nbsp;The magnet holes are cylindrical: 5.3mm(D) x 3.3mm(H), designed for 34 5x3mm magnets (<a target="_blank" href="https://smile.amazon.com/Magnets-Crafts-Strong-Whiteboard-Kitchen/dp/B09GLWMN7N/" rel="nofollow noopener">like these</a>). The holes are included as a slicer modifier, so if you want different sized magnets, you can remove these and add your own.&nbsp;When inserting the magnets, I recommend adding a drop of super glue into the holes before inserting the magnets, to keep them from rattling around in the finished print. Also, be sure to check the orientation of the magnets when you insert them, or the brain halves will pop apart instead of sticking together!&nbsp;I recommend printing this on a smooth surface (eg, not a textured/satin sheet) so that the halves mate together nicely.<h4>Brain stand</h4>The stand prints with no supports, and you should be able to just set the brain into it when finished. I used wood PLA filament to make it feel like a really display stand.<h4>Full brain (no split or magnets)</h4>I have also included a file with the whole brain as a single piece, with no split and no magnet holes. If you want to print a solid, scaled down model of the brain, use this model. 50% scale is nice for fitting in the palm of your hand.

Full-size human brain

science

IceGabrielito

EDIT: New version ----→ HUGE Pikachu (24 hours, 24 cm tall)&nbsp;This is a remix of a Pikachu. I scaled it and colored it. The tail is just yellow in order to use one AMS.&nbsp;IMPORTANT: be careful when you remove tail supports because the tail is fragile and you'll break it.&nbsp;&nbsp;

Colored Pikachu (HUGE and SMALL VERSION) Pokemon

color models

Emoney1325

Detroit Lions Lightbox

Lightboxs

vandragon_de

<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/96654/2023-09-28_6637cafe49095.webp"></figure>There is not much to write about this ship. World famous and unique to this day. The RMS Titanic is my first ship of the 1:1000 series.&nbsp;This is how history comes alive and can be touched.&nbsp;I have given this model a stand and hope that it will be a little more attractive.&nbsp;In recent years I have significantly perfected my model and who has fun to let his fleet grow further, I offer this opportunity on <a target="_blank" href="https://www.patreon.com/vandragon_de" rel="nofollow noopener">my Patreon </a>channel :)&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/96654/2023-09-28_5bccafec5d103.jpg"><figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HfskJFbXZsA"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/HfskJFbXZsA" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;You can also see a larger selection of my models here: <a target="_blank" href="https://historicaloceanliners.com/" rel="nofollow noopener">https://historicaloceanliners.com/</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;

RMS TITANIC - scale 1/1000 

Model kits

Officina23

When there isn't much filament left in the spool, clips attached to the edge aren't very effective. So I designed this one, named Baby Carrot, to be attached on the inside the Bambu Lab Spool using the holes already present, without the need for glue or anything else to stay in place.&nbsp;The main advantage of this clip is that you don't need to remove it before using the spool in the AMS because it does not interfere with rotation. Furthermore, thanks to the rounded shape, this clip does not block the filament during unwinding.The only drawback is that on full spools you won't find room to snap this clip until you've used up enough: in this case you can print one of the two clips that I designed specifically and which you can find at this link: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/it/models/59601#profileId-62387" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/it/models/59601</a>&nbsp;You can then leave it assembled until all the filament runs out. And when you want to remove it, just use any scraper to lift the edge and detach it. Warning: before before downloading and printing SPAM profiles, please check that when ★ 𝐅𝐚𝐬𝐭 is written it is really faster and not 30% slower at printing. Also make sure it was actually printed by author and that the photo used is not only a copy of the print from the original profile!

Bambu Spool filament Clip "Baby Carrot"

Dudes stuff

Steve_.

Bread Clip

Work Stuff

OlleMark

A tool to clean out the dust from your blower fans.&nbsp;Designed and tested on my p1p&nbsp;My recommended settings:0.4mm nozzle0.2mm layer height0.42mm line width20% infill&nbsp;A drawing is provided if you want to design some kind of holder for it :)<figure class="image image_resized image-style-align-left" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/144611/2023-11-04_fpomihzmxmw0.png"></figure>

Bambulabs Fan Dust Cleaner

3d printer p1p upgrades

Slanjonok

Painting things mostly for n-scale I use a lot of so-called alligator clips to hold the small items. I needed a holder-holder, to keep the clips for drying. I call it the alligator trap, due to the name of the clips.It prints without support and should work with FDM-printer as well. Hope you have use of this tool, as I do.

The Holder-holder, an alligator trap

hako85

Finger SkateboardIf the tire does not roll well, adjust the Z-seam setting. (Orca Slicer recommended)

Finger Skateboard

toys and gifts

AP Engineering

<blockquote><h3>Cable management clip (V2)</h3>What's new:<ul><li>3 different gap sizes, print the tolerance test and choose the best fit for your printer</li><li>Sturdier hinge, It's way harder to break</li><li>The dual version will hold 11 cables</li><li>The bigger holes are 6mm in diameter. Scaling it up in the X/Y axis by 16,66% will add 1 mm to the hole diameter. to add 2 mm will be 16,66*2 = 133,33%, and so on...<ul><li>7mm hole = 116,66%</li><li>8mm hole = 16,66*2 = 133,33%</li><li>9mm hole = 16,66*3 = 150%</li><li>10mm hole = 16,66*4 = 166,66%</li></ul></li></ul>To make it sturdier I added a 100% infill modifier on the hinge using SuperSlicer (or PrusaSlicer), that will increase layer adhesion on the thinner part of the hinge to make it less prone to break, the rest is printed at 23% gyroid infill.If you take your time to level your bed and your printer is properly calibrated you should be able to use 0,22mm gap. Bear in mind that a bit of elephant foot will stick the parts together !!This design took a lot of time of designing, printing, iterating.. If you like it let me know with a ❤.</blockquote>This is one of the most usefull and great designs I came across lately, and it was not available here in Makerworld, which is a shame, so I decided to upload it here.Originally Posted and Designed by fotoianmontes here: https: //www.thingiverse.com/thing:5808208Even if you download from Makerworld, consider going to thingiverse and download also from there and leave a like to the designer.