eric70634

Ciuf_Ciuf

One of the worst and most stressful things about using AMS is the amount of purged filament that gets wasted, without considering the additional time for each print. So, I decided to create this simple file without having to make any modifications to the gcode or anything else.The goal, therefore, is to minimize the amount of filament during each purge. The only necessary tool is a caliper, but you can also use a simple ruler.&nbsp;You start by setting all the purges to 50mm³<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:37.92%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/140491/2023-11-01_4aedbe6bc42f2.png"></figure>&nbsp;Once you've chosen which filament to calibrate, through the slicer, you set the correct sequence of chosen colors. A simple example is the photo below.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:38.77%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/140491/2023-11-01_47d1448e5d29e8.png"></figure>All that's left to do is start the print and wait.What you will see in front of you will be something like this.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:35%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/140491/2023-11-01_5c560b0fe3b9a8.jpg"></figure>At this point, our friend, the caliper or ruler (depending on how precise you want to be), comes into play. What you need to measure is the moment when the color you've chosen stops blending with the previous color and finally takes on its clean color.&nbsp;In this case, to transition from gray to blue, 48mm are needed.Now, using a simple formula, you can calculate the final value to input into the slicer. Each rectangle is exactly 100mm³. So, you need to multiply the measured value by 2 and add it to the 50mm³ set previously. Therefore:&nbsp;Vdef = (Vmeasured x 2) + 50 = (48 x 2) + 50 = 146&nbsp;Now, I will input 146mm³ to make the color change from gray to blue.&nbsp;This process should be performed for all color changes and all possible combinations. In case the first rectangle is not enough, the one below will complete the purge. Just keep in mind that in the formula, in addition to the 50, the value of the first rectangle, which is 100, should also be included.&nbsp;For example, as it happened to me for the change from black to gray, I measured the second rectangle, finding 13mm, and then I applied the formula again, adding the value of the first rectangle.&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:34.24%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/140491/2023-11-01_556a3a54f7ecd.jpg"></figure>So, the calculation would be:&nbsp;Vdef = (Vmeasured x 2) + 50 + 100 = (13 x 2) + 50 + 100 = 176&nbsp;Therefore, I would input 176mm³ to facilitate the color change from black to gray.&nbsp;Using this method allows you to significantly reduce the amount of purged filament without affecting the color you'll load afterward. In the photo below, you can see the amount of filament that has been purged using this technique.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:34.07%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/140491/2023-11-01_e44854969175d8.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;Comparing it with the slicer's automatic calculation, the difference is quite evident. This technique allows you to reduce purging by 30% or even less, depending on how precise your measurements are.&nbsp;BEFORE<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:35%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/140491/2023-11-01_aaffe4a2460af8.png"></figure>AFTER<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:35%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/140491/2023-11-01_45cf9e0401d838.png"></figure>&nbsp;I hope this simple idea can help you, as it helped me, to reduce the amount of filament wasted during color changes.Wishing everyone happy printing and lots of fun!&nbsp;&nbsp;

AMS Purge Calibration

tests

DesignCraft

DISCLAIMERS:<ul><li>Print profiles NOT created by DesignCraft may contain outdated model versions or suboptimal slicer settings. Use at your own risk! I have no control to moderate or remove these third party print profiles.</li><li>INLAND PLA+ spools have recently been reported by several users to be slightly larger. If your spool diameter is greater than 199mm please scale the models to 100.6% and leave a comment if this works for you. I don't have a matching spool to test so your feedback is important!</li></ul>Description:&nbsp;This adapter system wraps the edges of an INLAND 1kg 199x64mm cardboard spool in order to:<ul><li>provide smooth rotation within a Bambu Lab AMS</li><li>prevent carboard debris from depositing within a Bambu Lab AMS</li></ul>Features:<ul><li>Reusable</li><li>INLAND nameplate for easy identification when reusing</li></ul>Instructions:<ul><li>Print INLAND.A for the left-hand side and INLAND.B for the right-hand side</li><li>Affix to each respective side of the INLAND spool</li><li>See attached photos</li></ul>Notes:<ul><li>The reason for separate models is that the spool's wall width is thicker on the side with the branding label.</li><li>I'm not sure if all INLAND spools are wound in the same direction so if the branding label is on the opposite side you may need to swap the rings from what I have here in the instructions.</li><li>It may help if you remember that INLAND.B is for the Branding side of the spool.</li></ul>Considerations:<ul><li>Print Material: Please print with a basic PLA or PETG to minimize any shrinkage.</li><li>Too Tight? Too Loose? Cardboard expands with humidity and contracts when dried. A cardboard spool that has absorbed too much moisture may cause the adapters to fit very tight. Placing the spool in a filament dryer, such as the SUNLU S2, for a bit should resolve this. Note, you should not dry the spool with the adapters attached as they can warp in the heat. Keep in mind that after a long drying session the adapters may fit too loose. This should resolve itself shortly as the cardboard reabsorbs some moisture from the air.</li><li>AMS Lid Doesn't Close? All of the spool adapters I make are less than the official AMS spool clearance limit of 202mm, as specified on the official AMS product page, and as tested within my own AMS. However, some people have stated their spools are rubbing against the lid with the adapters attached. It's hard to say what's causing this since I cannot reproduce the issue myself, however, I've created an <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/33133" rel="nofollow noopener">AMS Lid Riser</a> which allows you to keep your AMS lid closed while providing additional clearance for larger filament spools. It's a quick and easy print which you can find on <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/243407759" rel="nofollow noopener">my profile</a> or directly here: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/33133" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/33133</a></li></ul>

tests

things to make