einfachniels

JF Lemay

Plate holder for your Prusa mini&nbsp;&nbsp;

Plate hoder Prusa Mini 4X

Prusa

angrelou

This type of lure is called a Minnow, which has a small lip at the front that helps it simulate swimming. For me, this is the best and my favorite as it is effective in all situations.*How to use it:* It can be used at any time of the day, and it works best in clear waters.*Where to use it:* It should be used in places where the depth does not exceed 10 feet. It is not recommended for the shore of a lake or very deep areas.To use it, I recommend watching videos to help you improve your technique.&nbsp;If you liked the design, check out my profile and subscribe, you won&#39;t regret it.

mouse lure

fishing 

Kevinwesterlink

This mouse was made for the Bambulab mouse contest.the design is inspired by the X1C printhead and uses all the internal printed parts of the Bambulab mouse 002.&nbsp;parts and files can be found here: <a href="store.bambulab.com/products/wireless-mouse-components-kit-002" rel="nofollow">store.bambulab.com/products/wireless-mouse-components-kit-002</a>Just print the parts from the Bambulab kit (excluding outer cover) &amp; print the parts I designed (Bambulab matte grey and Bambulab black recommended).For assembly just mount the inner system of the mouse kit inside the printhead mouse cover and you are ready to go.

Bambulab X1C Printhead Mouse

mouse for computer

PartyLime

GEN 12: please see my profile for the GEN 12 ball. There&#39;s a limit of 500mb on one page so I had to make another for the latest Gen. It bounces really well and feels super durable in TPC I wasn&#39;t satisfied with the current models of the airless basketball on here as they only had a single lattice. This took me days make sure the double lattice worked in CAD - SolidWorks was not built for this! As I don&#39;t have $2,500 to spare, I worked from the images available online.I printed it in TPU. It doesn&#39;t bounce as much as a standard basketball in TPU so I suggest a stiffer material.&nbsp;GEN 9: I have added a gen 9 version. It is a little closer to the original and should weigh about the right amount when printed in TPU/PLA&nbsp;GEN 10: I have adjusted the size of the hex holes and increased the filled on them. I&#39;ve also increased the lattice thickness to 8mm to hopefully increase bounce. The logo on the top and the airless gen 10 tag have also increased in size a little to improve how they look. Lastly, the holes around the seam are now pentagons as in the original ball&nbsp;GEN 11: I have added a new version with cut-outs throughout the seams. This will hopefully make the bounce more consistent.&nbsp;The original version I uploaded was removed due to “abnormal download data”. MakerWorld support took all my points but said I could re-upload so here it is again. Hopefully that won&#39;t happen again. MATERIALS:Extrudr Hard TPU (58D) - good durability about 40% bounceOverture Super PLA+ - 100% bounce but broke easilyOverture easy nylon (PA6) - broke almost instantly (the community have suggested “annealing” the print in water to increase durability)BASF Forward AM Ultrafuse TPU 64D - good durability and 60% bounce (BEST SO FAR)BASF Ultrafuse TPC 45D - good durability and great bounce. I recommend annealing this one at 110°C for 10 hours at least.

Airless basketball

All Out Of TPU

Captain_Stuhlgang

This is a nice, sturdy box for storing playing cards. (UNO)To assemble the box from the three parts, you only need a piece of wire with a diameter of 1.75 mm.&nbsp;As most card games are packaged in unstable cardboard boxes, I was looking for a stable and transportable box for the cards.&nbsp;This is a remix, as I have adapted the height of the boxes and the lettering on the lid to the respective game. the lettering on the lid can be painted (in my case with nail varnish).

Rugget box UNO storage

Card boxes

Ross3D

This is a medium-sized stationery / tool holder with the design of Bambu Lab's P1S tool head.I took some liberties in slightly flattening the toolhead to maximize the available space for storing stationery or tools.&nbsp;Included in the model files are complete unit, as well as split unit for those who want to reduce waste. They can be attached with superglue.&nbsp;Update 03 Feb 2024:I've also made the A1 Toolhead variant: https://makerworld.com/en/models/169124

Bambu Lab Toolhead Stationery Holder / Pen Holder / Pencil Holder / Tool Holder

Boxes

Natale206

“Are you telling me that you built a time machine... out of a DeLorean?” This is my first Hueforge, so let me know what do you think about this project. I Used Elegoo PLA and PLA+ from my old printer but you can use different.&nbsp;Print at 100% infill with a layer height of 0.08mm with a base layer of 0.16mm&nbsp;Swap Instructions: Start with Black At layer #4 (0.4mm) swap to Ice Blue At layer #8 (0.72mm) swap to Silver(Grey) At layer #12 (1.04mm) swap to White for the rest. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ "Mi stai dicendo che hai costruito una macchina del tempo... con una DeLorean?" Questo è il mio primo Hueforge, quindi fammi sapere cosa ne pensi di questo progetto. Ho usato Elegoo PLA e PLA+ dalla mia vecchia stampante ma puoi usare i colori che vuoi. Stampa con riempimento al 100% con un'altezza Layer di 0,08 mm con strato iniziale di 0,16 mm Istruzioni per cambio colore: Inizia con il Nero Al layer # 4 (0,4 mm) passa a Ice Blue(Azzurro cielo) Al layer # 8 (0,72 mm) passa ad Argento (grigio chiaro) Al layer # 12 (1,04 mm) passa al Bianco per il resto della stampa.

Hueforge Delorean BackToTheFuture - Ritorno al Futuro

Film

JaneDoe

Phone cover, printed in 95A TPU. I used 0.25 mm allowance when designing it, and it fits my iPhone 13 Pro just right. Can be printed without support but there was some bridging issues in the charging port area since thats the longest slot. Printing with support is recommended. I find TPU support is pretty easy to remove. I printed with 15% infill.

iPhone 13 Pro Case

Handy 

cyanidesugar

Here&#39;s another beautiful (if I may say so myself) HueForge Hybrid print for you!&nbsp;&nbsp;I used Burnt Titanium for the &#39;space blue&#39; and it turned out magnificently, but you can use whatever you feel like, honestly! Same goes for the material for the TIE Fighter. I just wanted to try out the Metal PLA that Bambu sent me :) An AMS is not needed for this, however will make it easier. If you do not have an AMS, just manually swap out the filament spools at the right layer (adding a pause in the slicer where you would change colours)&nbsp;&nbsp;This print takes 3 hours on the Bambu Lab P1P and is completely printed in place, without supports. If you are using a Bambu printer or Bambu studio, the 3MF will have all the necessary settings you need. If not, please download the STL and follow the instructions below!&nbsp;&nbsp;Print Instructions: HueForge section of the print (0.00mm - 2.00mm) - Print at 100% infill with a layer height of 0.04mm with a base layer of 0.24mm&nbsp;&nbsp;TIE Fighter part of the print (2.04mm - 64.44mm) - Print at 0.16mm layer height, with 2 walls, 3 tops and 3 bottom surfaces - I used 5% gyroid infill.&nbsp;&nbsp;Filaments Used: - PLA Kingroon Black Transmission Distance: 0.4 - PLA Flashforge Burnt Titanium Transmission Distance: 5 - PLA CC3D Lemon Yellow Transmission Distance: 8 - PLA BambuLab Basic Jade White Transmission Distance: 5 - PLA Bambulab Metal Iron Gray Transmission Distance: 0.6 (or the TIE Fighter!)&nbsp;&nbsp;Swap Instructions: - Start with Black - At layer #23 (1.04mm) swap to Burnt Titanium (for the space background, but you can use anything!) - At layer #27 (1.2mm) swap to Lemon Yellow - At layer #39 (1.68mm) swap to Jade White - At 2.00mm swap to Bambulab Metal (for the TIE Fighter!)&nbsp;&nbsp;The TIE model itself can be found found <a target="_blank" href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1735498" rel="nofollow noopener">here</a> :)&nbsp;&nbsp;_______________________________________________If you&#39;d like to support me, I now have a <a target="_blank" href="https://patreon.com/cyanidesugar3dp" rel="nofollow noopener">Patreon</a>!Joining will give you behind the scenes information on WIPs, access to a private discord, early access AND exclusive models!If you want to sell any physical models I have uploaded anywhere, an unrestricted commercial license is available on the $10AUD tier of my Patreon!_______________________________________________

TIE Fighter in Flight - HueForge Hybrid

Hueforce

HackMan

Just a test for your bed adhesion with 1 layer of 0.2mm, if you want to adjust to your bed, you can enter this value :X : 137Y : 135&nbsp;&nbsp;Check my Bambulab collection tool :https://makerworld.com/fr/u/3122702332/collections/188290

Bed flatness test for P and X series

Test/calibration

vojta.suchomel

It's necessary to use transparent filament This is a print profile for a solid block of the material, achieving higher mechanical strength and transparency for transparent materials, The critical factor is 107% flow of the material, Slower speed, and a bit higher print temperature. You can use it on your own model, For example, optical lenses, Solid blocks with hollow inside, etc. You can slightly tune it by yourself, for example slower print speed 10-15mm/s, or use higher extruder temp. 260°C. For post-process, you can sand it with sandpaper, and for a totally clear look use a hot airgun, lighter, or torch.

PETG Transparent print by FDM

filament

Everyone's favourite Space Station, now hueforged and ready to be displayed wherever you like! &nbsp;Another simple print-in-place model without supports needed, though it does take about 5 hours to print due to the details of the ‘Space’ portion of the print. I used 5 colours for this print, but you can get away with 4, by repeating the second colour - blue-grey (you can use grey) for the Death Star. &nbsp;If you are using the one-click printing on Makerworld, all settings will have been applied to the print. If you are not, or if you want to customise some of the settings yourself, please use the instructions/recommendations below: &nbsp;Print Instructions:<ol><li>For the Hueforge portion (0mm - 2.00mm) print at 100% infill with a layer height of 0.04mm with a base layer of 0.2mm</li><li>For the Death Star portion (2.04mm - 35.28mm) print at 5% infill (I used Gyroid) at 0.16mm layer height, with 3 walls, 3 top and 3 bottom surfaces. </li><li>You can make this print bigger if you want, but only change the X and Y dimensions, and not the Z dimension. </li></ol>Filaments Used: - PLA Flashforge Burnt Titanium Transmission Distance: 6.8 - PLA BambuLab Basic Blue Gray Transmission Distance: 3 (You can use grey here!) - PLA Sunlu Lilac Transmission Distance: 6.6 - PLA Kingroon White Transmission Distance: 8- PLA Overture Light Grey (for the Death Star, and you can repeat above grey if you want)&nbsp;Swap Instructions: - Start with Burnt Titanium - At layer #15 (0.76mm) swap to Blue Gray - At layer #20 (0.96mm) swap to Lilac - At layer #31 (1.4mm) swap to White for the rest.- At layer #45 (1.96mm) swap to Light Grey (the Death Star!)&nbsp;The model for the Death Star should be linked in this page (if I did it correctly!). It's a brilliant model, and if you have the time to spare, absolutely print a full sized version of it for yourself! ____________________________________ Commercial License to Sell PrintsIf you want to sell any physical models I have uploaded anywhere, an unrestricted commercial license is available on the $10AUD tier of my <a target="_blank" href="https://patreon.com/cyanidesugar3DP?utm_medium=clipboard_copy&utm_source=copyLink&utm_campaign=creatorshare_creator&utm_content=join_link" rel="nofollow noopener">Patreon</a>! ____________________________________

That's No Moon - Hueforge Hybrid Print

starwars

MrTingles

Getting ready for Christmas season already. Created my own Christmas tree decorations in Bambu studio with simple primitive shapes. Print time per bulb is roughly 1 hour.&nbsp;Update 11-02-2023: I've had a few comments about the hole. I've since updated the files to have the hole ready to go. Profile settings also changed out from Silk speed settings to defaults.

Christmas Bulb (Bauble)

X-mas

jusutus

UPDATE 04.11.2023: Corrected a dimensioning error on the magnet holes. Apologies for the mistake! UPDATE 28.10.2023: Now prints without supports :)Also changed the magnet holes for hexagonal holes for easier printing and easier fitting of the magnets.Added a 4.1mm pocket for the bowden going to the toolhead for even better filament path alignment.&nbsp;---&nbsp;A smooth three way splitter for using an AMS, rear spool holder and a drybox / secondary spool holder together on a Bambu.Smooth transitions to prevent filament snagging. I printed mine in 0.12mm layer height, which is recommended for this part.Mine is in ASA but other materials should be fine as well. Prints beautifully in 1.5hrs and only takes around 10g of filament. ---&nbsp;BOM:&nbsp;-printed part-5pcs 6x3mm magnets-4pcs PC4-M10 pneumatic fittings (like <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/BIQU-Straight-Pneumatic-Connector-Extruder/dp/B01IB81IHG" rel="nofollow noopener">these</a>, for example)&nbsp;Assembly:&nbsp;-insert magnets (use superglue if needed)-make sure a 4mm bowden tube fits the 4.1mm pocket on the bottom connection of the “Y”, test this before threading on the pneumatic fitting-thread the pneumatic fittings on-insert splitter on PTFE tube coming from the printhead-enjoy!&nbsp;Have fun printing!

Three way splitter, no supports!

Splitter for AMS

nikolay79

Just a remix of the original Bambu Lab Lithophane frame without the logo. Same size and function as original.&nbsp;https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/knowledge-sharing/CMYK-color-lithophane-printing-instructions

Bambu Lab Litho Frame without logo

Lithographien 

XuiF0115

旋转展示台，需要滚珠轴承两个：6207-RS：72-35-17，6206-RS：62-30-16滚珠轴承与模型之间有0.5mm间隙，可使用0.5mm塑料片加固，或自行修改模型以适应各人机器公差，推荐使用AB胶简单粗暴

模型展示转台

Vorrichtungen 

PJR Craftlure

Dive headfirst into the thrilling world of 3D fishing with the PJR Craftlure Quad Worm Open Mold 15cm! 🎣🌟 Crafted for passionate anglers and DIY enthusiasts, this 3D model unlocks your creative prowess. With every print, you're not just making a lure; you're crafting fishing magic! 🪄✨&nbsp;Model details 12 cavities mold. The mold dimensions are approximately 16 cm x 15 cm (about 6.3 inches x 6 inches), while the bait measures approximately 15 cm (around 6 inches) from the tip to the tail and 15 cm (approximately 6 inches).Whether you're chasing trophy bass or seeking the perfect catch, elevate your game with this precision-designed mold. PJR Craftlure brings the tools for making your own gear for fishing into your hands. 🖐️🐠Get ready to make waves in the fishing world, one 3D-printed masterpiece at a time. Are you up for the challenge? Let's print, cast, and catch! 💪🏆&nbsp;PJR Craftlure Crafting adventures one lure at a time. 🎨🎣

6 inch/15 cm Open Pour Quad Worm Bait Mold (12 Cavities) - PJR Craftlure

fishing

extrutim

Over 90 000 downloads and over 20 000 likes speaks for itself, a very popular filament clip now for you, here!&nbsp;A simple filament clip which prevents the filament from unwinding reliably! I&#39;ve tested many filament clips in the past, but couldn&#39;t find one that I was 100% satisfied with. Out of this need I have designed this small clip!&nbsp;This is the easiest way to attach the clip: Hold the end of the filament between your thumb and index finger, and press down on the previous winding with your middle finger. This way you can loosen the previous winding a bit to make it easier to get underneath with the clip to attach it. Do it a few times and it will be done in a few seconds.&nbsp;Important: Make sure your filament is not over extruded. This can cause the clip to not work as well as it could. I recommend regular PLA, Silky PLA has a poorer layer adhesion which can cause the clip to break.&nbsp;<blockquote>Tip:  2.85mm filament? Just scale the clip in your slicer to 160%.</blockquote>The most important features in short:<ul><li>Only requires about 1g of filament and prints in about 7min.</li><li>Does not attach to the spool. This makes it compatible with any filament spool and they can still be stacked easily.</li><li>Has a grip for easier handling.</li><li>A &#34;scoop&#34; to get under the previous winding better.</li><li>Bends the filament just slightly and therefore doesn&#39;t damage it.</li><li>A separate version with a hole in the grip to hang it up.</li></ul>The different clips explained separately:&nbsp;The classic: Unchanged because the vast majority are perfectly satisfied with this clip.The stronger clip: If you use Silky PLA or another filament with poorer layer adhesion, this scoop will be more sturdy.The clip for beasty filament: Filaments like PC are very slippery and stiff at the same time. The previous turn is clamped much stronger and prevents slipping.The closed clips: If the filament is fed into a Bowden tube these clips can stay on the filament. The hole is shaped so that the filament when it is straight simply slips through, if it is wound on the spool it holds the filament by its bending. There are these two versions, depending on which one you like better in handling.&nbsp;Remix? Please remember to select the same license as from this model when remixing.&nbsp;You can find <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/24371-grandmas-favorite-filament-clip" rel="nofollow noopener">the original upload here</a>, of course I would be very happy about a like and a follow there!<blockquote>Commercial use: Even if the license forbids this I agree if you show this model to your audience in a video etc. or use it if you run a business. Only selling the files or the physical model is prohibited. Please remember to name me as the author and link to this page.</blockquote>

Grandma's Favorite Filament Clip

Filamentrockner

Rilot Designs

I needed to measure a dimention that was inside a lip. Unfortunately I didn't have a micrometer. What I did have was a digital caliper, Fusion 360 and a 3D printer.They will clip on to most calipers you can buy on 'tinterweb (I have 3 different types and they all seem to have the same jaws).

Calliper extensions for more precise measurement of thicknesses

Messmittel 

JamesThePrinter

This roll top box includes 2 optional containers that mount to each side. If you choose to add one or two side containers, a connector will be needed for each. Both side containers can be used on either side of the roll top box.&nbsp;<h5>Print Settings</h5>No special settings are needed. &nbsp;<h5>Assembly Instructions</h5>Slide the roller into the groove on one of the roll top box pieces. Add a small amount of glue in the 2 holes and the slot of the right piece. Slide the left and right pieces together - be sure that the roller seats into the groove.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/user/1360890085/draft/2023-09-15_8gzvx9mj3zyy.png"></figure>***Optional***Slide connectors into each side of the roll top box. If desired, glue in place.Slide the side containers in place.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/user/1360890085/draft/2023-09-15_tkc0c75jkgtm.png"></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/JamesThePrinter" rel="nofollow">Buy Me A Coffee</a>&nbsp;The following filaments were used in the pictures above:<ul><li>Inland Lulz Green Matte PLA</li><li>Inland Blue Tough PLA</li><li>Inland Pink Tough PLA</li></ul>

Roll Top Storage

Haushalt 

Makers Mashup

📝 Description See these in action on my <a target="_blank" href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CwGkvz0hIu2/" rel="nofollow noopener">Instagram</a>&nbsp;Butter-Fly Flippers are great butterfly toys for kids and fun. They are great pranks for kids as well! Put inside a book or box. When it opens they start flapping around. They are a very fast print, very thin. You will need a rubber band and I personally suggest using a paper clip or if you have it, piano wire to make a hook to put the rubber band in. You want a thicker smaller rubber band with a lot of strength to store more energy for the flipping. They are a ton of fun. 🖨️ Printing Tips&nbsp;.2 or smaller layer height, they print very flat. Go slow on the first layer to get a good grip. 🔗 Additional Information&nbsp;Most conventional rubberbands work great. Hair tie ones break too easy. &nbsp;When it comes to hardware, I rely heavily on Bambu Lab 3D printers. My A1 Mini https://rb.gy/uofj5 is a staple in my office, while my fleet of X1C Carbons https://rb.gy/9r2az ensures rapid and high-quality production.

Butter-Fly Flippers! 

Hits for Kids

schiko

I found some other models here but I had problems with all of them. So I had to re-print my old model.You need 5 magnets 6x2mm.As stability junkie I printed with 8 walls. You have to make a stop after 4mm to insert the magnets, I fixed them with a drop of glue.Using the fuzzy walls in the slicer brings a lot of grip. So I also uploaded a .3mf file with a fuzzy wall modifier cube that workes well for me.&nbsp;I originally posted this model at <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/577586-bit-holder-for-bosch-gsbgsr-cordless-screwdriver-1" rel="nofollow noopener">Printables</a>.

Bit-Holder for Bosch GSB/GSR cordless screwdriver (10.8/12V)

toolshop

Rincewind76

Our Worx Landlord m500 tends to not only cut the lawn, but also dig new holes with the tires.In difficult situations the mower does not recognize that it is not turning - and uses a brute force move.Therefore I designed other wheels, that transfer less grip to the lawn, but still give enough grip to also manage a wet terrain.It is best to print the rim in ABS, the tire itself in TPU >> this gives a little bit of flexibility to the tire. Obviously you need to print two tires ;)

Worx Landroid Alternative Tires

Garden 

STomHacks

I created this suspended hand artwork using bridges for the strings. You don't need any supports. It prints in 0.2mm layer height and wall generator set to Arachne in Bambu Studio. The easiest way to print in multicolor is to use the full model and apply the color you want for the strings on the entire model and then apply the other colors to the structure and the hand.

Suspended Hand

Aesth3tix

&nbsp;<h3>Quick Breakdown:</h3>After browsing some of the great riser designs, I found some were a bit bulky and would likely cause some unwanted vibrations however <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@RockChewer" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.printables.com/@RockChewer</a> & <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@Marwyn" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.printables.com/@Marwyn</a> designs were two of my favorites, so I decided to combine some of my favorite features while adding some new ones. I mainly wanted to be able to mount a small 5v LED strip at an angle for a “stadium light” approach without having to do much work after the print. I also wanted it to fit snug with my ARC enclosure from <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@thrutheframe" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.printables.com/@thrutheframe</a> (such a wonderful design) so I slightly modified some of the accent pieces to cozy up to the riser itself. However, the accents can be optional as the riser works with the originals as well. The covers for the hexagon shaped vents are magnetic with one model of a (paintable) Bambu Lab marking and the other is a blank step file so you can add whatever you like.&nbsp;3MF file only includes the main body, vent covers, and connectors. Optional gasket files and accent files available in raw files. &nbsp;NOTE: You are welcome to try this with other enclosures, however it is only tested with the ARC. My main concern would be stability as it may not have anything to keep it from moving or sliding once vibrations are introduced. If you do indeed try this on another enclosure, please let me know your experience so I can share that information here. Thank you!&nbsp;<h4>What You Need: </h4>-6 X 3 Magnets (48 total)<a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/TRYMAG-Refrigerator-Multi-Use-Cylinder-Whiteboard/dp/B09MRN2X7L/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1NO4J82RMSV7G&keywords=6+x+3+magnets&qid=1685755574&sprefix=6+x+3+magnets%2Caps%2C125&sr=8-3" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/TRYMAG-Refrigerator-Multi-Use-Cylinder-Whiteboard/dp/B09MRN2X7L/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1NO4J82RMSV7G&keywords=6+x+3+magnets&qid=1685755574&sprefix=6+x+3+magnets%2Caps%2C125&sr=8-3</a>-5v LED strip (If you want to use the P1Ps USB for power) <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/Tatazone-720LEDs-Dimmable-Backlight-Showcase/dp/B09Y59LP39/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2CZR8OX0BXOCD&keywords=tatazone+5v+led&qid=1685748766&sprefix=tatazone+5v+led%2Caps%2C99&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFRSzUxSlFINlNJSzUmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAyNzE5MTkzOUJGNkU1Uk5XTzFSJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA2ODg3NjgyNlRQM05BWVFEVEFSJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/Tatazone-720LEDs-Dimmable-Backlight-Showcase/dp/B09Y59LP39/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2CZR8OX0BXOCD&keywords=tatazone+5v+led&qid=1685748766&sprefix=tatazone+5v+led%2Caps%2C99&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFRSzUxSlFINlNJSzUmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAyNzE5MTkzOUJGNkU1Uk5XTzFSJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA2ODg3NjgyNlRQM05BWVFEVEFSJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==</a>If you do not want to use a 5v LED strip, there is a cable passthrough at the rear right side of the riser for alternative power sources.&nbsp;&nbsp;Assembly:-Use the 4 connector pieces to connect the 4 riser pieces. (These are designed to be snug fit to improve the riser's rigidness)-Attach your light strip to the 45-degree angle found on the inside of the riser. Careful around the 90 degree turning points. The strips are not made to make that sharp of an angle so just leave a little extra length here to be able to fluidly make the sharp turns on the riser with your LED strip. I included a picture of placement location. *Note* If you purchased the strip in the link provided, you will have some extra length, but they can be trimmed to fit however you want.-If you printed the modified ARC accents, attach them to your enclosure but DO NOT tighten down all the way. -Place the riser on your machine and adjust your accent pieces to “clamp” down on the riser lightly.-Now just add your TPU gasket, power up your LEDS and place the Bambu top glass. DONE!&nbsp; Print and install at your own discretion. While my designs work for me, the reality is, they may not work for you. Nature of the beast. Happy printing!&nbsp;&nbsp;

Bambu Lab P1P LED Hex Riser

Bambu Lab Gadgets 

StefanWox

Attention! There seem to be several versions of the AMS where the slots differ from this version. Please check before printing if the version fits. I try to get the dimensions of the other version and will then upload the bracket in the adapted version!I added a design drawing with measurements please check it! Here is the Variation for the 3 slotted AMS Version.&nbsp;Nothing special - just a quick Design to mount the AMS on the wall.Works fine for me. If there are any Problems, don't hesitate to contact me!Recommended print settings: 5 Walls/Perimeters, 5 Top/Bottom, 35% infill with ABSFor example <a target="_blank" href="https://www.nobufil.com/abs-filament" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.nobufil.com/abs-filament</a> which is currently the best ABS i know! Perfect layer bonding, ok smell, great colors (even Sparkle ones) - and recycled out of industrial ABS. No, i'm not working there, just impressed.

Wallmount for Bambu AMS 

Bambu Lab AMS Gadgets 

Adam L

Update 1/28/24:  Added a new version with 90 degree-increment tactile and visual marking in the model, if you prefer to measure your turns by quarter or larger turns.  See “BambuBedBuddy_90DegreeMarks.3mf” if you want these ribbings that indicate how much you&#39;ve turned. Picture:<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000015546/design/2024-01-27_a5b6d9c2c3d978.png">&nbsp;Bambu Bed Buddy is a printable wrench that helps you tram/level the bed of your BambuLab printer with the gantry/printhead. It is compatible with all BambuLab models as far as I know, and it can improve the quality and consistency of your prints.Bambu Bed Buddy lets you turn the 3 screws under the bed as part of the <a target="_blank" href="https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/manual/manual-bed-leveling" rel="nofollow noopener">official bambu tramming procedure here</a>, but without destroying your thumbs! The 12-sided knobs under the bed are very tight by design, which makes them a little tricky to fine-tune without a tool. After getting very frustrated with doing this and hurting my thumbs, I designed this tool to help. I hope this helps others!Additionally, it is important to note that the tightening procedure needs to be started all over again if you fail to complete it in the first 3 passes! The key part is that this requires starting with the knobs from a very tight “neutral” position, so that you don&#39;t end up with them too loose. This is pretty annoying, and needed to be fixed.Part of the problem is that Bambu&#39;s provided GCODE file only iterates 3 times and (especially if you&#39;re not using the wrench here!) gives you not enough time to adjust and fine-tune the knobs. To fix this second problem, I simply extended the number of repeats in the included GCODE file here so that it will repeat the 15-second-per-spot sequence for 30 minutes, which should provide ample time for even the most OCD tuners :). I recommend trying to use this file to save on frustration instead of the Bambu one, but the wrench will of course work either way.Shown here printed in Prusament Galaxy Black PLA, 4 walls, 0.2 layer height. The resulting fit is tapered slightly, but will be tight to aid in minimal backlash. If you want to check for fit first to see if you need scaling, I&#39;ve included a small test print. Print the wrench and test piece with the socket of the wrench facing UP (away from the bed).&nbsp;

Prusa

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mouse for computer

All Out Of TPU

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Boxes

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Hueforce

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filament

starwars

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Splitter for AMS

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Bambu Lab Gadgets

Bambu Lab AMS Gadgets

Bambu Lab tools