byAvallone

hollowmaker

Perfect fit for Bambulab A1, P1- and X1-Series: Lego compatible Base Plate 28x 28 knobs&nbsp;<ul><li>28x28 knobs - Dimension: 22,3 x 22,3 cm</li><li>I also have smaller baseplates available (check my Makerworld-account)</li></ul><h3>Attention! Important: A well calibrated printer is absolutely necessary for this model (This also applies to all my other Lego compatible ones) </h3><h3>If you print on a Bambulab: Before printing, be sure to carry out a flow dynamics calibration for the filament used. The calculated “K value” can be conveniently saved in Bambu Studio.</h3>&nbsp;I added a test baseplate. For those who are not sure about the fit or quality and don't want to take a long time to print. Printing only takes a few minutes. Feel free to test it out:<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:51.86%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/421550/2024-01-11_4700497f3ab61.jpeg"></figure>Follow me to stay updated and never miss out on my latest exciting creations! Thank you :)Also check out my other Lego compatible designs I have made:<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/u/1369155071" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/421550/2023-12-30_9fb8f8aa2f231.webp"></a>

Lego-compatible Baseplate 28x28

lego

Heblyz

I needed a pc case for a living room pc so i made my own pc frame design as most of the models here are for ITX motherboards. I made it the simplest with the least filament amount I could and in a way it fit on a standard 220 x 220 bed.To build this PC frame you will need: -M3 threaded inserts-16 M3x20 screws-4 M3x10 screws -2 M3x30 screws for the PSU-Motherboard Standoffs (3D printed spacers can do the job)PETG filament would be safer for this print to resist temperatures but I printed it with standard PLA and had no issues.&nbsp;EDIT: Added a revision of the two bottom side parts to allow better compatibility with more PSU. Also added more holes to the middle bar for the SSD bracket mounting.

ATX Open PC Frame

codehustler

<div><h1>Summary</h1><div>TPU Lipo cage designed to protect your precious FPV racing batteries. The cage is 3mm thick and has a pocket to store the balance connector during flight.</div><h1>Print Settings</h1>Printer: <div>Sparkcube</div> <pre><code> Rafts: <div>Doesn't Matter</div></code></pre> Supports: <div>Yes</div> <pre><code> Resolution: <div>0.2</div></code></pre> Infill: <div>20%</div> <pre><code> Notes: <div>Print from TPU material. Weight is 15g. Print with support. I placed my support manually to minimize the waste of TPU.</div></code></pre></div>

Lipo Cage

drone

SabreDesign

Remixed ghost pumpkin from overture, adjusted to put a tea ligth inside and made through holes from the eyes and mouth.Great for halloween decoration.   Stem can be glued into the hole.&nbsp;If you want to support me or get a commercial license you can join a patreon membership: https://www.patreon.com/SabreDesign

Ghost Pumpkin

halloween 

Gingerbread Man from Shrek, with flex joints. Hip joint locks into place so he will remain seated and not flop over. Can be printed normal and as an ornament version with a small loop to hang the little man in the christmas tree. Added multiple profiles with different colour amounts.&nbsp;If you want to get commercial permission for selling any of my models you can join a patreon membership to get a license: https://www.patreon.com/SabreDesign Or contact me for more information Check out more of my designs below and on my profile:<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/836525/2023-11-25_dca49cc0098b.png"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/836525/2023-11-25_35b5ef78c518a.png"> <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/836525/2023-11-25_291e223d2e6dc.png">

Gingerbread Man

gift

SK07 Skipper07

Among the many models that I dedicated to this Christmas I thought it would be nice to have these small decorative elements on your Christmas tree or wherever it is beautiful.I believe that often the real charm lies precisely in simplicity!I hope you like them!

Christmas Decoration

xmas

lucamoretti86

Pikachu keychain

cool

Zion Wang

A 3D printed solder stand that can be easily installed without fasteners. It features a minimalist design.Coil size: External diameter less than 70mm Shaft hole larger than 20mmThickness less than 30mm&nbsp;&nbsp;一种能够轻松安装，无需紧固件的3D打印焊锡丝支架。采用极简的外观设计.适用于以下尺寸盘直径小于70mm轴孔大于20mm盘厚度小于30mm。&nbsp;

Solder Stand

tools

OurAngryBadger

I call this the "Instant" version of a Y-Splitter, because it requires no separate purchase of Bowden connectors, just print all necessary parts!&nbsp;Basic Features:<ul><li>No extra parts needed, click and print.</li><li>PTFE tubes held in place securely by friction nuts</li><li>Smoother filament path than default gray connector, less AMS errors.</li><li>Mount directly to back of the printer using existing screw.</li><li>Use rear or side mounted spool holder for external spool, your choice.</li><li>External filament can be fed directly into the splitter or a PTFE tube can be inserted for guiding, your choice.</li></ul>The goal of this project was to solve the following issues:<ul><li>Having a Y-Splitter to use AMS and external spools without ever needing to disconnect anything, like all other Y-Splitters.</li><li>Making a Y-Splitter that did not require the purchase of extra bowden connectors, just click and print!</li><li>Solving AMS pull/push error messages by having a cleaner and smoother filament path than the default gray connector on the back of the printer, which is notorious for causing filament hangups.</li><li>Having the splitter directly mounted to the back of the printer using existing screw holes.</li></ul>How I solved them:I am only a novice 3D designer, so I started with an existing Y-Splitter design to remix from. So this isA remix/adaptation of the <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/541678-bambu-ams-no-catch-y-splitter-pc4-m10" rel="nofollow noopener">Bambu AMS No-Catch Y-Splitter PC4-M10</a> by Ed Johnson. Full credit to him!I chose this design because of the "no-catch" nature of it, and added the printed connectors on the two ends where the PTFE tubes go from the AMS to the splitter and the splitter to the tool head. I then made other changes to the design to accommodate this for printing, such as making it thicker to account for the extra diameter of the friction nuts. The biggest other change I made was converting the split for the external filament into a tapered hold you can directly feed the filament into, or push in a PTFE tube if you want to guide the filament from an external spool.&nbsp;Printing Instructions:<ol><li>I actually recommend printing this in PLA, it has less friction than PETG/ABS and will provide a smoother filament path.</li><li>Click-to-print directly from MakerWorld if you want, the profile is already set up to work well with two AMS colors for the splitter and the nuts.</li><li>Print at 0.16mm layer height, this provides enough smoothness for the filament to glide easily inside, and the majority of the inside is PTFE tubing anyway.</li><li>Because of how this prints, I recommend a hefty brim.</li><li>THIS IS MADE FOR BAMBU TUBES. If you are trying to use other tubes such as Capricorn, the tolerances MIGHT NOT fit.</li></ol>Post-Processing, and Installation Instructions:<ol><li>This prints with a "support" piece to help keep the splitter stable while printing and not wobble. After printing, you can slide this support piece off the bottom.</li><li>You may have to cut the support piece off with a razor knife where it's attached to the brim.</li><li>Use a razor knife to also clean off the brim and clean it up around the threaded connector.</li><li>TEST the tube connection tolerances and filament paths before installing the splitter, using a short piece of spare tubing and spare piece of filament. DO NOT screw the nuts down at this point because once tightened, they are quite hard to remove without pliers. </li><li>If necessary, use a heat gun / lighter to remove any stringing.</li><li>Insert the PTFE tube from the Toolhead to the single port on the Splitter (bottom of the "Y") until it pushes in all the way, you need to put the nut over the tube first, the side of the nut with the bigger hole goes towards the splitter. </li><li>You may also have to pull some extra tubing out of the back of the printer from inside the printer if there is not enough sticking out, you need to loosen the interior "stopper" in the printer on the tube. Remember to put that back later. There is enough inside the printer, don't worry about making it slightly shorter! But if you are worried, you can also cut your own PTFE tube to be a bit longer.</li><li>Tighten the nut down as tight as you can get it by hand, this will lock the PTFE tube in place.</li><li>Unscrew the screw from the back of the printer. You MIGHT need a slightly longer screw. You can use one of the longer ones that came with the printer if you still have them, or you may have to make a quick trip to the hardware store to get one.</li><li>The threads for this screw inside the printer are plastic, so if the threads are different or your replacement screw is slightly wider (i.e. M3 vs M2.5), you CAN force it in to re-thread. Do it at your own risk, it shouldn't damage anything but still your risk.</li><li>Place the screw inside the groove on the splitter and screw it into the printer. This groove allows you to position the splitter how far you like, just like the original design.</li><li>Optionally, you can decide not to mount the splitter to the printer at all, it's fine to dangle or until you get the proper screw.</li><li>Insert the PTFE tube from the AMS hub into the other port on the splitter, remembering to put the other nut over the tube first. Tighten it down by hand again.</li><li>Optionally, you can now cut a piece of PTFE tube and stick it into the final hole on the splitter, cutting it to length and bending it to wherever your external spool is. This does not need to lock into place, but just inserted in snugly. You may have to push it in quite hard. If you don't want to use the PTFE tube for the external spool guide, you can also just insert the filament directly into the hole when you guide the external filament in manually.</li></ol>VERSIONS & UPDATES:2023.10.17 Initial version released. Please print and test, and give me your feedback. Thank you!&nbsp;&nbsp;