DuckDoCad

WimV

<h4>Operation of the lids.</h4>Below is an impression of how the lids work.&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000423164/design/879423bc-338e-4a96-b217-c93394eec243.gif">&nbsp;<h4>Printing</h4>The lid parts.&nbsp;The lids consist of three separate parts that have to be assembled afterwards. The two front parts (part 3L and 3R) are NOT the same! This is because the holes are slotted to achieve the mechanical locking of the lids. Part 3L is marked &#34;L&#34; on the side. Part 1 &amp; 2 must both be printed 2x.Printed in PLA, nozzle 0.4, layer thickness 0.2, infill 20% and support everywhere.&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000423164/design/06ba5b49-601e-4c49-af85-9929390ddfc5.jpg">&nbsp;After printing, all support residues must be removed. Do this thoroughly. There is often some extra residue on the axles due to the use of support. If necessary, cut this off so that the shaft becomes as round as possible. Make sure that the ends of the axle are slightly chamfered so that they can be mounted easily.<blockquote>For Part 1: the part with the axle. The axle can break of in use with either poor layer bonding or too much friction in the hinges. Print with 100% infill to enhance strength or use the extra part I added for use with bolt M3 (See bottom of page!)</blockquote>&nbsp;The Knob, Lock and Axle Lock&nbsp;You need 1x the Knob &amp; Lock and 2x the Axle LockFor the different parts and the correct orientation on the bed, see the image below.Printed in PLA, nozzle 0.4, layer thickness 0.2, infill 20% and no support.&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000423164/design/83dde606-05da-4cdf-b374-9037190c9be2.jpg">&nbsp;The Box&nbsp;For orientation on the bed, see the image below.Printed in PLA, nozzle 0.4, layer thickness 0.2, infill 20% and no support.&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000423164/design/030ab77c-c0c4-4206-b724-d56a93e3858a.jpg"><h4> </h4><h4>Assembly</h4>&nbsp;The lids&nbsp;Slide the different parts of the lid together. Pay close attention to the orientation! This is indicated in the image below. Notice that the shafts are pointing upwards! Once pushed together, the recess in the shaft falls over the cam in the opposite part, securing the two parts against sliding apart.&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000423164/design/69942bcb-86ec-41f7-b047-1d0537b76c8e.jpg">Mounting the Knob and Lock&nbsp;See image below. Notice that the axles are pointing downwards.Push the knob through both holes in the lids. Then press the Lock from below over both axes of the Knob. To obtain a firm anchoring, you can first put a drop of glue in both holes of the Lock and then press firmly.&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000423164/design/f1dbece2-8c02-48e2-bed9-fafd3656c26e.jpg">&nbsp;Mounting the Lids on the Box&nbsp;Place both axes of the lids in the holes of the Box. Rotate both lids to create an open Box. Now place both Axle Locks in the holes in both corners of the Box. The round part of the Axle Lock should be facing upwards. You can use a little glue to keep them in place. Be careful not to glue the axles!&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000423164/design/1d248058-315f-4de7-8a95-4d6a19ca4251.jpg">&nbsp;<h3>Operation of the mechanical lock.</h3>&nbsp;The lock works by interlocking 2 small printed tabs. Due to the rest position of the Knob, which is then vertical, they remain hooked together. By tilting the Knob backwards (which is possible through both slotted holes in the lids) they can unlock and you can open the lids. When closing the lids, you must ensure that the Knob is well pressed and is vertical. To be sure, you can additional tilt the knob towards you. (see video below)&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000423164/design/20b8ffe3-89e9-48f7-a98b-48e04b6eda40.gif">&nbsp;<h3>Box size and scaling</h3>&nbsp;The size of the Box 200x100x50 (knob not included) was created after a number of test prints for the hinges. I managed to stay within that 200mm, so it can be printed by almost all printers.But nevertheless the Box can be scaled. For FDM printing I would advise not to go below 80%). This already gives a very large saving on material and printing time, while the hinges still remain strong enough. It may be that the hinges are less flexible or operate less smooth due to the layer thickness of 0.2mm. By printing with a smaller layer thickness and/or nozzle, can you probably improve this.&nbsp;&nbsp;<h3>Breaking Axle of part 1 from the lids:</h3><figure class="image image-style-side image_resized" style="width: 36.21%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000423164/design/2024-06-08_47e7fbfea63f3.jpg"></figure>For this model good layer bonding is essential for the axles. In the past I made a version for use with a M3 bolt to make it stronger (see attached screenshot). Use 2 bolts M3x16. I have added that extra STL file. For the latching mechanism: ensure all, but realy all remnants of supports are removed. Mostly there are a few hard to remove remnants. Use a bore for the holes and a knife for the axles to make them smooth. Use correct temperatures and other settings for the used filament for bonding.

Storage Box with origami folding lids.

iprintedthis

PartyLime

GEN 12: please see my profile for the GEN 12 ball. There&#39;s a limit of 500mb on one page so I had to make another for the latest Gen. It bounces really well and feels super durable in TPC I wasn&#39;t satisfied with the current models of the airless basketball on here as they only had a single lattice. This took me days make sure the double lattice worked in CAD - SolidWorks was not built for this! As I don&#39;t have $2,500 to spare, I worked from the images available online.I printed it in TPU. It doesn&#39;t bounce as much as a standard basketball in TPU so I suggest a stiffer material.&nbsp;GEN 9: I have added a gen 9 version. It is a little closer to the original and should weigh about the right amount when printed in TPU/PLA&nbsp;GEN 10: I have adjusted the size of the hex holes and increased the filled on them. I&#39;ve also increased the lattice thickness to 8mm to hopefully increase bounce. The logo on the top and the airless gen 10 tag have also increased in size a little to improve how they look. Lastly, the holes around the seam are now pentagons as in the original ball&nbsp;GEN 11: I have added a new version with cut-outs throughout the seams. This will hopefully make the bounce more consistent.&nbsp;The original version I uploaded was removed due to “abnormal download data”. MakerWorld support took all my points but said I could re-upload so here it is again. Hopefully that won&#39;t happen again. MATERIALS:Extrudr Hard TPU (58D) - good durability about 40% bounceOverture Super PLA+ - 100% bounce but broke easilyOverture easy nylon (PA6) - broke almost instantly (the community have suggested “annealing” the print in water to increase durability)BASF Forward AM Ultrafuse TPU 64D - good durability and 60% bounce (BEST SO FAR)BASF Ultrafuse TPC 45D - good durability and great bounce. I recommend annealing this one at 110°C for 10 hours at least.