dragonfiredesigns

Numimadosa

This model was inspired by other designers models and I came up with this idea. I did not use a program to create the Voronoi vase. In fact I designed them one by one even added a flower design around the pot to give it more character. &nbsp;Simply fill up the space with your filament purge and add a pot in the middle ( you can add light also and use with the filament purge or without it). The great part of this design is that you can change the flowers pot in the middle without disruption from the filament purge which makes it convenient and practical. <figure class="image image_resized" style="width:22.43%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/815067/2024-04-04_f1584fe94b03e.jpg"></figure>

Flower Pot Vase

general

bimmerfreak10

Edit 5/25/24: Uploaded print profile for arrow model and added a smooth/no texture model to the downloads section. &nbsp;Edit 1.013: I&#39;ve had several inquiries about commercial licensing of this model. The only reason I didn&#39;t go public domain with it in the first place is I didn&#39;t want to be a target for people with similar models. &nbsp;However I know that I designed this myself, included the STEP file to prove it, and it&#39;s already public due to me designing it on a free Onshape account. Also there are models now you can find that even copied the outer texture of the clock shop model I was worried about. &nbsp;All that to say I&#39;m releasing this public domain. Feel free to sell these in your shop. &nbsp;I&#39;m honored that this model has been recieved so well. I expected less than 100 downloads and the count is well into 3k and goes up all the time. I love that people are enjoying this as much as my wife and people in my life have. I do well financially, so paying me for the use of this model is silly to me. If you feel an obligation or some kind of guilt, I suggest giving a small amount to a local animal shelter or autism awareness center in your area. That would mean far more to me than collecting on this. But even that is not required. &nbsp;Thank you for the wonderful comments and pictures, it&#39;s awesome to see this fidget in so many colors. Enjoy!&nbsp;Edit: updated with increased tolerances. It was a bit tight for regular pla, but worked well with silk. Also added a different outer texture that I personally prefer. Easier to hold on to but may not be as comfortable for some.&nbsp;Another fidget spinner. This one is inspired by the ones sold on the clock app. Couldn&#39;t find a smooth spinning one to print, so I made one in onshape. Spins far better than most of the ones from printables.&nbsp;My best results came from printing .16 layer height, 3 walls and 50% infill to give it some weight, but YMMV.&nbsp;Step files included, in case someone wanted to make a different outer texture and re-upload.&nbsp;Have fun!

Fidget spinner

fidget

BeeTee 3D

This is an LED lamp of Winnie the Pooh&#39;s lovable, cuddly, manically depressed, possibly suicidal donkey friend Eeyore.&nbsp;&nbsp;Eeyore really needs to see a therapist.&nbsp;&nbsp;Two back plates are included: one with a hole for hanging on a wall, and one without for placing on a flat surface. This lamp uses more than four colors, so you will need two AMS&#39;s for the full effect.&nbsp;&nbsp;How do I make this thing?!Easy!  Just follow these general steps, and you&#39;ll be lighting up your life in no time.  Pay attention, as there will be a quiz later.&nbsp;<ol><li>Download the model to your computer or open it in the Handy app.  I suggest downloading it and opening it so you can remove the purge line (Google is your friend here).  I also strongly suggest using the included profile, as it contains many little tweaks to prevent problems that are common with these types of lamps (gaps, wisps, separation, etc.)</li><li>Confirm whether you have enough AMS&#39;s to handle all of the colors.  I do my best to keep my lamps to 4 colors or less, but sometimes that&#39;s just not possible, and a second AMS will be needed.  Alternatively, you can build in pauses and conduct manual filament swaps, but you&#39;ll need to research how to do that on your own, because I&#39;m not good at that.</li><li>Ensure your filament colors are in the correct AMS slots that corresponds to the model.  Hint: I generally arrange my colors in alphabetical order, because I&#39;m weird like that.  Just be cautious of wildcards like &#34;light blue&#34;.</li><li>All of my models come with two different back plates.  One will have a hole for those of you that want to hang the lamp on a wall.  The other will not have a hole, and that&#39;s intended for those of you who will be placing the lamp on a desk or a table or a cat.  You do NOT need to print both back plates (or do, I don&#39;t care, I&#39;m not your mother).  Pick whichever one you want.  Some lamps will also come with a base.  This is to keep your lamp from tipping over like a drunk toddler if you&#39;re placing it on a flat surface.  If you&#39;re hanging it on a wall, you don&#39;t need the base.</li><li>I strongly recommend using a textured PEI plate, as that will do an excellent job in hiding the print lines, and that&#39;s what these prints are tweaked for.  But you can use whatever fancy plate you want -- again, I&#39;m not your mom.  </li><li>Once you&#39;ve got your AMS set up and are ready to go, hit that big ol&#39; PRINT button for the lamp face and then your back plate. I suggest disabling Flow Calibration.</li><li>Go make a sandwich.</li><li>You should now have the lamp face and your back plate of choice, and it&#39;s assembly time!</li><li>This first step is optional, but I would suggest picking up aluminum (or aluminium for some reason if you&#39;re British) foil tape.  Yes, it comes in tape form!  Line the inner side of the back plate with the sticky stuff, as it will help tremendously in making your light brighter and with a more even and consistent light.  I personally tear off small strips, apply, and then flatten/smooth it out with the edge of a credit card, and repeat until the entire side is shiny silver.</li><li>Next you&#39;re going to want to buy yourself some LEDs.  The options here are many and varied, and I can&#39;t decide for you (see mom comment above).  Decide what types of light you want.  Do you want basic white light?  Great!  Do you want cool white or warm white?  Do you want it to flash or dance to the music?  Do you want a switch?  Do you want a remote?  Do you want it to be USB or higher voltage?  Have you changed your mind and want it to be multi-colored or able to change color to the seasons or your mood?<ol><li>What I can do is make some suggestions.  First, there are several kinds of LEDs that are typically used in these types of lamps.  The first is a basic LED strip, which is a roll of circuit board tape with a sticky back-end.  These are the simplest and easiest to use.  Next is what&#39;s called a COB strip, which is basically the same, but instead of an LED every inch, it has a solid band of light.  Then there&#39;s neon COBs, which are self-explanatory.  There&#39;s also LED dome bulbs, which you would apply directly to the backplate, but would require soldering.</li><li>Whatever you choose, you want to look for the following:  - A way to power the thing.  USB, DC, solar panels, steam engine -- doesn&#39;t matter, just as long as you can turn it on and off.  - A way to trim the length.  Most LED strips have areas on them that are safe to cut with scissors as long as you cut precisely along the indicated area.  Once you make that cut, the part of the LED strip that&#39;s still connected to the power will function, but the remainder will no longer function (there are ways to repower them, but generally require soldering and/or special clips and new controllers.  Google is still your buddy here).  <ol><li>A way to secure the strip to the inside of the lamp.  Most LED strips come with an adhesive side, but not all -- make sure you know what you&#39;re buying.  In a pinch, hot glue will do the trick. </li><li>An LED strip length of 1m is usually sufficient, but some lamps do exceed that length.</li><li>Test EVERY strip before you apply it.</li></ol></li></ol></li><li>All of my lamps come with a hole in the side of the case that&#39;s just big enough for threading through the LED strip (if you don&#39;t want the hole, you can cover it with a small piece of electrical tape).  Thread the USB cable (or whatever power source you chose) from the inside through to the outside so the connecter is dangling just outside the lamp.  Then peel off the sticky backing of the LED strip, and start applying it to the inner wall perimeter of the lamp, maintaining steady pressure to ensure good adhesion.  Try to keep it as straight as possible.  Use a credit card or other narrow instrument to help get it into any nooks and crannies the lamp has.  Continue along the entire inner perimeter until you come back around to the outlet hole, and then make your cut.  Plug in the power to ensure the light still works.<ol><li>This is optional, but I suggest putting a dab of hot glue every inch or so to secure the strip extra tightly to the inside of the case.</li></ol></li><li>Now you&#39;re ready to close the lamp up.  Take the back plate you printed earlier and line it up with the front plate.  All of my back plates have a lip to help secure it, and it is a tight friction fit.  This helps keep the two halves together without needing to glue them, which allows you to open it back up in case you need to fix the LEDs.  Once it&#39;s lined up, squeeze the two halves together, ONLY PUTTING PRESSURE ON THE OUTER EDGES.  If you squeeze the lamp directly on the thin face or back plate, you&#39;ll put your whole hand through it like a gorilla.  <ol><li>Here&#39;s the method I use:  I place the edge of the box between the balls of my thumbs, lock the rest of my fingers together above it, and then squeeze.  As long as you&#39;re only squeezing on the EDGE, it can take a surprising amount of force.  I repeat this around the entire edge of the lamp until I have a tight fit.  Occasionally, for any tricky areas, a little sanding/trimming/clipping of the lip can be helpful.</li></ol></li><li>Lucky number 13, and you&#39;re done! </li></ol>&nbsp;Quiz time (did you think that was a joke?)  1. What&#39;s the suggested way of opening the lamp file?  2. What do you need to ensure is in the right order before printing?  3. I&#39;m not your _______?  4. Which back plate should you use for which scenario?  5. What is the recommended plate you should use for lamps?  6. What kind of sandwich did you make?  7. What type of LEDs did you decide on, and what should you do before applying it? 8. What should you NEVER apply pressure to or squeeze when joining the lamp halves together? 9. Did you have fun? &nbsp;Feel free to join me on Patreon @ BeeTee 3D for more, including exclusive lamps!  &nbsp;

Eeyore LED Lamp

lamps

maCyo42

It&#39;s done!!! All Parts printed and assembled! I started the Riser V2 early December and changed the last Parts yesterday. There&#39;s a lot of work in this design, so many small and big changes. Today i will start to Release the first completed picture of the Riser V2 and the Profiles of the Mainbodies. As you later can see i&#39;ve seperated some Parts so that you can play around with Step Files for your own Design Fronts.&nbsp;<h2>Should I print the Riser V1 or V2? Here are the differences.</h2><ol><li>There are 2 Versions of the V1. The Standard is for 8mm Lightstrips and the 12mm Edition for 12mm Lightstrip and additionaly you can fix the Lightstrip with Cable ties. V2 combines the Features of both V1 Riser in this Case. I received a lot questions: Will 12mm Lightstrips fit? It can but that is not sure. It not depends only on the width. The stiffness is one big issue for the curves. Try it i cannot guarantee! There are different lightstrips on the market.</li><li>V2 is tuned more for function than design. There are additionaly Connectors for Accessories like Tools.</li><li>Early December i began to work on V2. My intention was the big change in the Anti Glare Feature and the Connectors. But meanwhile there where some critics on the V1. Some Makers reported a bad fitting of their Top Glas. To much loose in the Spoolholder fitting and so on. So the logical consequence was to rework many things on V2.</li><li>The Modders. I had so many Mails and Msg… can you please add Hexagons insted of Holes and so on. Because of this i reworked the Covers and seperated them for the Modders. You can now easily create your own designs on the most seen Parts of the Riser.</li><li>The printability. Puh i don´t know how to begin exactly. Makerworld makes a lot very easy. But a project like this is not easy. It´s big, it can fail as any other Print… it can fail! But you can do a lot that the chance that it will fail is very small. You have to know your printer, your Filament, your Buildplate… The condition is not the same as i have. But it´s quite easy to begin if you have a predefined Profile. But it´s not a Microwave, it´s a 3D-Printer, a popular and wonderfull Printer. It makes a lot easier and it´s the by far best for consumer on the marked… and nevertheless you have to know what you do. Please keep in mind! I reworked a lot to make it even easier. Less Supports (less filament usage is everytime the best optimization!) Tuned Overhangs especially on the back which is on the Print surface while printing Part 3 and 4. and many more changes</li></ol>happy printing<h2>Features Description</h2><h4>Accessories Port New second Accessories Connector Port. The Port is redesigned an optimized. Accessories fits tighter. The Spoolholder on V1 was a bit to loose.</h4><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-01-16_d57fe6c9f6869.png"></figure><h4>New seperated Drawer Front Cover and Handle</h4>With the new separated Drawer Front you can create easily your own Designs and Text on it and print it upside down for best looking Surface. (STEP File of the Cover included) The new Handle locks both Parts (Drawer and Cover) together. No Glue needed!&nbsp;Compatible Inserts for the Drawer <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/models/44128#profileId-45567" rel="nofollow noopener">Original Inserts &amp; Dividers</a> by <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/u/1818851574" rel="nofollow noopener">tomtom5893</a><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/models/50855#profileId-52695" rel="nofollow noopener">CHT Nozzle Holder</a> by <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/u/2301853465" rel="nofollow noopener">kylecasey4</a><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-01-16_e7570c3e6befc.png"></figure><h4>New P1S Front Dash Parts with separated Cover for leave Blank or your own Design</h4>In the Standard V2 you have a dummy for the Slot where you can mod different things like a light Switch. The Slot for the MicroSD Card is now protected with a Cover. If you press on the lower Part of the Cover it opens. Yes it´s tricky to get the Card out, but how often you want to get it out… i recommend to use a tweezer or something else. The Covers of Part 5 &amp; 6 is now separated too. You can add your own designs and print it upside down. (STEP Files of the Covers included)<h4><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-01-16_a2e0b276312d6.png"> Light Strip integration and Anti Glare</h4>The Lightstrip integration is fully redesigned and now combines “V1 Standard” and “V1 12mm Edition” in one sleak Design. You now have a lot of cable tie position to safe your Printer from falling Lightstrip!<ul><li>I strongly recommend COB LED Light Strip with 8mm width. Length 2m and cutable.</li><li>Yes you can also use 10mm or 12mm BUT beware. Most 12mm LED Strip are so stiff that it´s a mess to integrate them.</li></ul>The Anti Glare Feature moved from the Mainbodies to the TPU Gasket Parts because of collisions with the PTFE Tube while printing big Parts. <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-01-17_88977cc660f9.png">Why more Light? Do i need more Light? YES i think so! <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-01-17_7662231c60b07.png"><h4>The Toolholder Connector</h4>With this Connector you can add whatever you want to the Riser. In the First step i added the Connector for my <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/28768#profileId-25133" rel="nofollow noopener">P1S Tools Model (Get it here on Makerworld)</a>. The Toolholder Connector is provided as a Step File as well. With this the Modding Community is able to connect whatever they want. There are 6 Connector Ports 4 of this. 2 on the Left Side and 2 on the Right Side. There are 2 more Connector Ports on the Back in a different design. (STEP File of the Toolholder Connector included)<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-01-18_6005761ec053d.png"></figure>You can also attach a Spoolholder. <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/53455#profileId-55205" rel="nofollow noopener">Get my Version with Bearings here</a><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-01-18_841008088edb2.png"></figure>The “Back Connector” is finally released. Unleash your modding ideas, perhaps for an ESP32 case that can be attached to the back? Use one, two or even all 4 connectors for your modding idea. (STEP File of the Back Connector included)<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-02-23_e06df92819799.jpg"></figure><h4>Where to find the &#34;RAW Files&#34; on Makerworld? e.g. Back Connector …</h4>So there are 2 Options. One you can see in the folowing picture as provided by the designer you can find the Parts under “Download STL” else <figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-05-07_12c13e3925103.png"></figure><h4>Asssembling Guide</h4><ol><li>Push Part 2 on Part 1 <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-05-07_0b3ee7ecae28a.png"></li><li>Push carefully Part 3 on Part 4 <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-05-07_719957f53c68.png"></li><li>Then push carefully both Parts 3 &amp; 4 together from the Top to the Bottom in Part 1 &amp; 2 <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-05-07_1d6c733360ed3.png"></li><li>tba</li></ol>

AMS Riser V2

printer tools

Druewpee

A Jenga game filled with poop.&nbsp;A game made of little boxes that you can print transparent or with different colors of filament.Store your poops in it to make it more fun and colorful.&nbsp;Enjoy your prints

Jeng-A-Poop

puzzles and games

frizzl3Dmama

Meet your new desk buddy!  This fidget desk plant is the perfect way to bring the springtime joy indoors and right to you. Place the stems into the holes in any arrangement you like. Each of the leaves and petals are articulated for additional movement, and the vine includes a print-in-place chain. Whether you&#39;re pausing for a break or mulling over a problem, this fidget-friendly design not only boosts productivity but also adds a touch of fun to your workspace. I am really proud of this model at this point in my 3D modeling journey but I also already have so many ideas for future improvements and variations. If you have ideas, please let me know in a comment! And if you print this design, please consider sharing your photos here. I&#39;d love to see how they come out!&nbsp;Happy Spring!

Fidget Desk Plant

flexi pets

Habitaritus

<h4>Always have too much poop?</h4><h4>Are you missing a beautiful vase for your printed flowers?</h4><h4>Would you like some indirect lighting? </h4><h2>Here&#39;s everything in one!</h2> This low poly vase can hold a lot of your poop. It is also compatible with the LED Lamp Kit 001. - Print all the parts, insert the lamp kit into the socket below. - Place the vase on the socket. - Insert the lid into the middle part - Fill the vase with your poop - Remove the lid again and place a few beautiful printed flowers in the vase - Alternatively, leave the lid on and fill the vase to the brim with poop If you want a different effect on the outside, you can adjust the settings for the vase object in the slicer and select a different infill. You can adjust the amount of infill and the type of infill once. The type of infill also results in a different pattern on the outside depending on the quantity.&nbsp;The parts are printed with Bambulab PETG Translucent: <a target="_blank" href="https://eu.store.bambulab.com/products/petg-translucent" rel="nofollow noopener">https://eu.store.bambulab.com/products/petg-translucent</a> Be creative :)&nbsp;The printed flowers are not mine. You can find them here: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/151891#profileId-165802" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/151891#profileId-165802</a> Have fun with your new vase lamp...