Design8Studio - Doug Joseph

This remix is so that a 2.5" vacuum hose fits and can be attached to the LowRider 3 (instead of ~48mm as in the original parts).I worked hard to match the style and function of Ryan's excellent original work, with only the needed change of hose size. Also, I now have available an accompanying remix: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/218468-lowrider-3-hose-hanger-modified-for-25-vac-hose" rel="nofollow noopener">LowRider 3 - hose-hanger modified for 2.5" vac hose</a> - If you plan on using this, you may also want to use that. &nbsp;<h4>Printing is just as with the original (quoting Ryan):</h4>"Print at 30%+ infill…. Vacuum hose gets a cable tie on the upper tool mount and one to the top of the core. It can take a bit of muscle to get the hose zipped in initially but it will soon conform to the curves and stay planted. The lower dust shoe is a snap on and off design that lets you easily change tools and get to the collet. Two Tool mount prints, one of each Top and Lower.”<h4>FAQ:</h4>Q: Did the Tool Mount “ring” get changed from the original? A: Yes. All three parts underwent changes in the remix. If you look closely at the Tool Mount, you will see that the portion that the hose zip ties to is protruding from a different position on the ring, and the curvature of the protrusion is edited to fit the larger diameter of the 2.5" hose.Q: Do I still need to print two of the Tool Mount “rings” like with Ryan's V1 original? A: Yes. As mentioned above, quoting Ryan, “Two Tool mount prints, one of each Top and Lower.”Q: What inside diameter (ID) is the opening (hose port)? What outside diameter (OD) of hose end will fit? A: The opening (hose port) is 62mm (ID). My Vacmaster shop vac hose (nominally 2.5") is approximately 61.75mm and fits perfectly. The actual conversion of 2.5" to millimeters is 63.5mm. Actual dimensions of hoses vary by brand. Measure yours first to know for sure. You may need to remix this to make it fit your hose, or design an adapter for it.&nbsp;My PayPal tip jar: <a target="_blank" href="https://paypal.me/design8studio" rel="nofollow noopener">https://paypal.me/design8studio</a>  &nbsp;Various LowRider 3 CNC remixes:<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/social/127223-doug-joseph-design8studio/collections/175217" rel="nofollow noopener">LowRider 3 CNC Collection</a></li></ul>&nbsp;View all my models and remixes:<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/1800510193" rel="nofollow noopener">Design8Studio 3D models</a></li></ul>&nbsp;*Amazon product links are affiliate links.

LowRider 3 CNC - Makita 700 Series Mount & removable dust shoe - REMIXED FOR 2.5" HOSE (v1.1)

LowRider3

<h3>Heads up! This is v1. A new, improved "v2" is NOW AVAILABLE!</h3>A new, improved "v2" of this enclsoure has been developed. Get it here:<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/219567" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/219567</a> &nbsp;If you're planning to make this, check out the discussion in comments linked right here: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5137500/comments" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5137500/comments#comment-6269801</a>&nbsp;I am a big fan of the BIQU B1. Of the seven 3D printers I currently own, four are B1's, and I have a BIQU B1 SE Plus on order. As you may know, a B1 is too tall to fit in the Prusa designed IKEA Lack enclosure (version 1) and their version 2 (which needs more height / headroom because of their multi-material add-on) costs a whopping 200 hours of print time because they decided to gain the extra headroom by printing plastic. I thought, "The IKEA Lack tables are only $9.99. I'll use an extra set of legs (turned side ways) to get the extra height." In short, it works, and the resulting enclosure holds a BIQU B1 nicely!One minor caveat: just as many using the Prusa enclosure have had to print a new design of "heater bed wire strain relief part" with a 90 degree bend, in order to keep the heater bed wires from bumping the back pane of acrylic, this design also calls for that, and the good news is that my remix here already includes a part custom designed just for the BIQU B1. It's a drop-in replacement. Just use three zip ties to secure your heater bed wiring into the new part.So, without further ado, here is...<h3>DIY Lack table enclosure for BIQU B1</h3><h3>PARTS FOR PRINTING</h3>Just as with the Prusa design, most of the printed parts are organized into sheets of multiple parts that are all designed to fit on the print bed of a BIQU B1. Those sheets are:Bottom-Corners.stl Door-Knob-(x3)-and-Cable-Clips-(x10).stl Top-Corners.stl Top-Extenders.stl&nbsp;Additional parts that are not ganged up on a sheet with others:BIQU-B1-ac-heater-wire-redirect-strain-relief-bracket.stl(The main reason the strain relief part is by itself, is so you can more easily print it in PETG, which I did, and advise you do, because of its exposure to heat from the print bed.)<h3>ASSEMBLY TIPS</h3>At the head of each corner, one "Top-Extender" is to sit above one "Top-Corner" — and be careful to insert your hinge into the "Top-Corner" before you snap that little assembly together and bolt it to the underside of the Lack table's top, using a big #12 lag screw (4" length). This is all done first, while the top of the enclosure in face down on your assembly area.Once the upside-down table top has all four corner assemblies bolted on, you should be able to attach not only the four vertical table legs, but also the four legs that get inserted horizontally (to gain the extra headroom needed for a B1). I recommend inserting the horizontal legs first. This is designed for a snug fit, so have a rubber mallet on hand in case a few love taps are needed. Use screws vertically to attach the horizontally used legs to the table top, and use screws to attach them to the corner assemblies. I used some common black drywall screws (of various appropriate lengths) to do this. I used the same kind of screws to attach the vertically used legs to the top corner assemblies.Re. your 3mm (1/8") thick plexiglass panes, which are to be sized/cut exactly as with the Prusa version 1 Lack table (440mm x 440mm for any solid panes with no door, and two 220 mm x 440 mm panes for where doors are called for), the usual and advisable practice is to insert your plexiglass panes before tightening down your bottom corners.Speaking of bottom corners: Since the BIQU B1's AC power cord is apparently thicker than on a Prusa, I tweaked the Prusa-designed cable opening in the one special "Bottom-Corner" by enlarging it. My goal for the modified opening was to accommodate LED wires in addition to the thick AC power cord.<h3>HARDWARE NOTE</h3>Four long screws are called for, longer than any used in the Prusa design, because of accommodating the additional headroom. These need to be 4" long (#12 size in diameter). An affordable way to source what you need is to buylag screws from your local hardware / home improvement store. My design enlarged and deepened the "countersink" opening in the printed plastic part so that not only can the thicker hex head of a lag screw be fully countersunk, but also a socket head should fit in there around it to ratchet tighten the hex screw down.<h3>THE BETTER TO SEE YOU WITH - L.E.D. NOTES</h3>Among the advantages of using the additional set of table legs to gain the needed extra headroom, is that those legs provide a great place to attach LED lights. I like this placement better than on the underside of the top, because a continuous strip of lights can be installedwithout having to cut it into separate pieces (that would then need re-wired to stay attached to each other).So, here are several tips about LEDs:If you have leftovers from some prior install of an LED strip of the kind that accepted color change commands from a controller with remote, and you just have some strip left with no more controller or remote, those leftovers can definitely be used for this kind of thing, and for me, I really just want nice bright white light in there, not a lot of crazy colors. I need to see! This is also a great way to make use of your litany of mysterious AC adapters laying around your house from who knows what that is no longer in use. Any AC adapter that matches the right voltage, for example if the LED light strip was 12v then the adapter should be 12v, and that is rated at or above the needed amps will work (any one that's rated for at or above 3 amps or more should be fine). Don't worry about it allowing higher amps. The AC adapter doesnot force the higher amps, it just offers them if the device wants to draw them. Trying to under power is where problems arise — the adapter can overheat. Don't try to power this many lights with only a 1 amp or 2 amp adapter! 5 amps or more is probably ideal, and 3 amps seems to work OK too. I've found that somewhere around 5'-7" of LED strip length is enough (about perfect) to get all the way around. I will try to post a video on it.To get those leftover strands to burn all white, you want all three colors of RGB to be fully powered, and if it is a "warm white" version with an additional set of warm white LEDs, then that extra “line” needs full power too. To accomplish this (full power on all wires) you simply connect your "hot" (live or "+") wire to the "12v" wire on the lights (it will be labeled as such right on the LED strand, every few inches or so) and then connect the neutral or "-" wire toall the other leads. That gets full power to all, and you get white light.I noticed the strips that don't say "warm white" tend to have a slight bluish tint that may or may not bother you. I did my first one with warm white, and liked it a lot, and then I wanted them all the same for consistency (I have 3 of my 4 BIQU B1’s in these and I’m building a 4th enclosure for the 4th B1), and I personally prefer the warm white kind. I think name brand is not as important as voltage and right color and it being decent quality. There's a bunch of name brands on <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com?linkCode=ll2&tag=thingiverse09-20&linkId=e4759bff1fa9a55a0f897d801ce2d765&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl" rel="nofollow noopener">Amazon</a>, etc. A good kind to get, whether warm white or not, is “5050”!Here are 2 listings of "warm white" 5050 LEDs that I bought and liked: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B084VPDDKN/ref=as\_li\_ss\_tl?ie=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=httpdougjosne-20&linkId=7b75dbf4cc99a919d87892e9b44fcfdd&language=en\_US https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B084VPDDKN/ref=as\_li\_ss\_tl?ie=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=httpdougjosne-20&linkId=7b75dbf4cc99a919d87892e9b44fcfdd&language=en\_US(note: both the above are out of stock, but it gives you an idea of what to look for.)And here’s an example of regular 5050 LED: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B084VPDDKN/ref=as\_li\_ss\_tl?ie=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=httpdougjosne-20&linkId=7b75dbf4cc99a919d87892e9b44fcfdd&language=en\_USAlso, for connecting an AC adapter to a strand of leftover LED strip lighting, I found that having several tools and supplies made it super easy, with no soldering! Using clamping and/or crimping instead of soldering was just way, way better for me.First, to make a connection that can be easily withdrawn and re-connected as needed, I ordered a bag of these beauties:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B084VPDDKN/ref=as\_li\_ss\_tl?ie=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=httpdougjosne-20&linkId=7b75dbf4cc99a919d87892e9b44fcfdd&language=en\_US DC Power Connector 20 Pairs CCTV Power connectors 12V Male+Female 2.1x5.5MM DC Power Jack Plug Adapter Connector for CCTV Camera and LED Strip Light…Those things are super handy to have!Secondly, when I screw those (above) down onto the + and - wires, I'm tightening not onto bare wire, but rather leads that have ferrules crimped onto the wires. Much safer and better. For that I used this wonderful batch that comes with the amazing tool and a huge supply of different ferrules (barrels) for this job and lots of others:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B084VPDDKN/ref=as\_li\_ss\_tl?ie=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=httpdougjosne-20&linkId=7b75dbf4cc99a919d87892e9b44fcfdd&language=en\_US Ferrule Crimping Tools Wire Pliers - 1800 PCS Wire Ferrules with Crimpers Pliers Kit for Electricians, Adjustable Ratchet Tools with Terminals Connectors AWG 28-7, 0.08-10mm²…Also, being able to connect wires to wires without soldering, using the following either “permanent” or “removable” ways, is super handy:First, for “removable” and with no crimper tool needed, these are awesome:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B084VPDDKN/ref=as\_li\_ss\_tl?ie=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=httpdougjosne-20&linkId=7b75dbf4cc99a919d87892e9b44fcfdd&language=en\_US XHF Conductor Compact Connectors UL Certification Lever Connectors Nuts Electrical Connectors Wire Terminals for 2 Circuit Inline Splices 28-12 AWG (SPL-2, 50PCS)And for “permanent” crimping to connect (without soldering) wire to wire, with use of a crimping too, these Butt Splice Crimp Connectors are super handy:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B084VPDDKN/ref=as\_li\_ss\_tl?ie=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=httpdougjosne-20&linkId=7b75dbf4cc99a919d87892e9b44fcfdd&language=en\_US Butt Splice Crimp Connectors Insulated Electrical Straight Wire Terminal Connectors 10-22AWGIf you search <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com?linkCode=ll2&tag=thingiverse09-20&linkId=e4759bff1fa9a55a0f897d801ce2d765&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl" rel="nofollow noopener">Amazon</a> for "LED clamps solderless" you find lots of affordable "clamp" / "clip" options to consider!And finally, here’s a great wire stripper and crimper tool I am really liking:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B084VPDDKN/ref=as\_li\_ss\_tl?ie=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=httpdougjosne-20&linkId=7b75dbf4cc99a919d87892e9b44fcfdd&language=en\_US Wire Stripper ,24-10 AW/ 34-3 Gauge/ 0.2-6 mm 8 Inch Self-adjusting Cutter Crimper Multi Pliers,With cutting,crimping,stripping function, Equipped with multi-function screwdriver toolsOh, almost forgot, here are two listings of wire I bought and like - used on this and other projects:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T6LCZKJ/ref=as\_li\_ss\_tl?ie=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=httpdougjosne-20&linkId=5539948dfb401466f4ed87d8c28d0fca&language=en\_UShttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T6LCZKJ/ref=as\_li\_ss\_tl?ie=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=httpdougjosne-20&linkId=5539948dfb401466f4ed87d8c28d0fca&language=en\_US*note: all links I post are affiliate links.<h3>BUILD VOLUME Z HEIGHT REMAINS INTACT</h3>One other note on the extra enclosure height needed to accommodate a B1: The B1's advertised build volume height is 270 mm. In my B1 inside this enclosure, I'm able to get 270 mm of Z height. So if you're concerned about it, I'm not experiencing any loss of build volume height.<h3>DRY BOX OR TOP-MOUNTED SPOOL HOLDER?</h3>Finally, regarding filament placement: remember that the Prusa design offers an adjustable filament spool holder for the top. I'm not using that personally, because instead I will be using my existing, excellent filament dry box design, which is another remix I plan to post soon. If you want the adjustable filament spool holder for the top, just head over to the original Prusa design and grab it.Oh, and as promised...<h3>HOW I PRINT MUCH QUICKER WITH STOCK HARDWARE</h3>Here are the two videos that give details on how I print much faster with stock hardware (changes to slicer settings only):"BIG nozzles - HOW they (can) make your 3D prints STRONGER" by CNC Kitchen Nov 23, 2019  <figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QfASQ8VgAbk"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/QfASQ8VgAbk" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure>&nbsp;"Print FASTER: Tuned Profiles or Drilled Nozzles?" by Thomas Sanladerer Sep 25, 2020  <figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6fPq8vUS38Y"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/6fPq8vUS38Y" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure>&nbsp;<h3>Edits Log</h3>Added a Zip file of all the "single piece" STL files (only needed if you have to reprint something). Naturally, the Zip is named "STL single pieces (only if you need to reprint something).zip" :-)<h3>Print Settings</h3>Printer: BIQU B1Rafts: NoSupports: NoResolution: 0.3Infill: 15%Filament: 3D Solutech PLA Real RedNotes:I further shortened my personal print time by settings to make a 0.4 nozzle emulate a 0.6 nozzle, as explained in a video I’ll link in the details. When you glance at the print times on my Cura screen shots, bear in mind my 0.6 emulation, and I’m using a dry box so no need for printed spool holders.Category: 3D Printer Accessories&nbsp;My PayPal tip jar: <a target="_blank" href="https://paypal.me/design8studio" rel="nofollow noopener">https://paypal.me/design8studio</a>&nbsp;Various LowRider 3 CNC remixes:<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/1800510193/collections/745685" rel="nofollow noopener">LowRider 3 CNC Collection</a></li></ul>&nbsp;View all my models and remixes:<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/1800510193" rel="nofollow noopener">Design8Studio 3D models</a></li></ul>&nbsp;*Amazon product links are affiliate links.

(V1) For BIQU B1, DIY Enclosure, Remix of Prusa IKEA Lack Enclosure, extra doors (opening 3 sides)

Printer Enclosure

This is made to accommodate a “press fit” for the tapered adapter that came with my VacMaster Shop Vac 2.5" hose. The stock tapered adapter's OD (outside diameter) starts at about 58.5 mm at the base of the connector and tapers to about 57 mm at the tip that gets inserted.<ul><li>This prints with no supports. </li><li>Print as oriented. </li><li>Recommend you print with an extra number of perimeter walls for strength, and it seems to print faster when it does not have to change gears to bother with infill.</li></ul>In the attached photos, the bright blue part is what was printed.&nbsp;This was used in conjunction with my other printed dust collection parts linked below (some links still pending):<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/197561" rel="nofollow noopener">Dust Collection Port (v1.0) for DIY Router Table - designed for 2.5" hose from Vacmaster shop vac</a></li><li>Dust Collection 4-inch Port to 2.5-inch Hose Tapered Adapter Dust Collection Reducer Fitting (v1.0)</li><li>Dust Collection Adapter for SKIL 10-inch Worm Drive Table Saw, going from 2.5" (ID 64mm) to 2.25" (ID 57mm) v1.0</li><li>Dust Reducer Adapter for Ryobi RTS12 Table Saw - from 4" Dust Hose to 2.5" (64mm) dust port</li></ul> My PayPal tip jar: <a target="_blank" href="https://paypal.me/design8studio" rel="nofollow noopener">https://paypal.me/design8studio</a>&nbsp;Various LowRider 3 CNC remixes:<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/1800510193/collections/745685" rel="nofollow noopener">LowRider 3 CNC Collection</a></li></ul>&nbsp;View all my models and remixes:<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/1800510193" rel="nofollow noopener">Design8Studio 3D models</a></li></ul>&nbsp;*Amazon product links are affiliate links.

Dust Collection Reducer Adapter 4-inch Hose to 2.5-inch Shop Vac hose v1.0

Dust Collection

I designed this based on the Bessie brand Quick Release Bar Clamp. It may also be compatible with Pittsburgh & Irwin brand bar clamps as well.&nbsp;Ideally print in TPU for flexibility. &nbsp;I printed in PLA, and used a heat gun to warm the clamp  tip and the printed part, to make it just flexible enough to install it.Despite the relative hardness of PLA compared to TPU, it does not seem to be a problem for use.&nbsp;See also a couple of related designs by my talented and famous Aussie maker friend, Peter:<figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/753318/rich_content/b8f03108-8e34-434c-a816-532bd4b71114/thumbs/cover/800x640/png/image.webp"></figure><a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/751667-clamp-pad-for-quick-grip-clamp/" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.printables.com/model/751667-clamp-pad-for-quick-grip-clamp/</a><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/753318/rich_content/d5c82259-bf52-454b-8521-19d8f90c023e/thumbs/cover/800x640/png/image.webp"></figure><a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/751678-pipe-clamp-adapter-for-quickgrip-clamps" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.printables.com/model/751678-pipe-clamp-adapter-for-quickgrip-clamps</a>&nbsp;My PayPal tip jar: <a target="_blank" href="https://paypal.me/design8studio" rel="nofollow noopener">https://paypal.me/design8studio</a>&nbsp;Various LowRider 3 CNC remixes:<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/1800510193/collections/745685" rel="nofollow noopener">LowRider 3 CNC Collection</a></li></ul>&nbsp;View all my models and remixes:<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/1800510193" rel="nofollow noopener">Design8Studio 3D models</a></li></ul>&nbsp;*Product links may be affiliate links, which add nothing to your price, but may benefit me by a small percent.

Clamp Pad - TPU round pad for Bessie Quick Release Bar Clamp

Tools

Useful for CNC plasma cut tables, CNC routers, CNC mills, etc. Snap-on top allows opening for wire insertion. (v1.13)&nbsp;Two of my recently posted videos feature this same design in actual use on my CNC plasma cutting table, which is based on the LowRider v3. See them below. The second one below shows detail on how I use this drag chain for both X and Y axes on the LowRider 3 that I'm using for plasma. &nbsp;<figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h29vGY484FQ&embeds_referring_euri=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.printables.com%2F&feature=emb_imp_woyt"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/h29vGY484FQ" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure><figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MAzGeZy3HXg&embeds_referring_euri=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.printables.com%2F&feature=emb_imp_woyt"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/MAzGeZy3HXg" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure>&nbsp;This also pairs with this: lowrider-3-plasma-cnc-drag-chain-mount-revised-for  [link pending]&nbsp;Larger sized drag chain for CNC plasma cut tables, CNC routers, CNC mills, power, data, coaxial, and other cables/cords. This is a two-piece, snap-open drag chain, with an inside track dimension of 20mm x 40mm, and it's designed for a 64mm radius. As such, it should aid in protection against strain for wires/cables that should not be bent in curves tighter than 128 mm in diameter.It's optimized for 3D printing, and prints with no supports needed.Printer Settings<ul><li>No supports needed.</li><li>Nozzle diameter can be 0.4 mm or (optimally) 0.6 mm.</li><li>Layer height: 0.3mm</li><li>Wall thickness: 0.6mm</li><li>50%-100% infill</li><li>Perimeters: <ul><li>3 perimeters if using 0.4mm wall thickness </li><li>2 perimeters if using 0.6 mm wall thickness </li></ul></li><li>Number of bottom layers/top layers: <ul><li>3/3 bottom/top layers if using 0.4mm wall thickness </li><li>2/2 bottom/top layers if using 0.6 mm wall thickness 2/2</li></ul></li></ul>Printing TipsA given printer’s calibration has an impact on how straight of a line the drag chain (cable chain) holds when suspended. If you find (after printing a batch of the chain links and assembling) that you have some sag, use your printer’s percentage settings to increase flow. If the batch won’t quite lay straight, do the reverse, reducing flow. I would think 3-5% at a time, depending on how far off perfect it is. Maybe only 1-2%.Also, I had my best success at getting the clips printed (the snap-on tops) by printing a whole sheet of nothing but them. For some reason my attempts to print the clips along side the chain links, resulted in the clips separating from the bed and just being a lost part of the print. Thanks to them not being a lot of grams worth, there was not much “spaghetti.” I allowed those flawed print jobs to complete because the chain links were still good.Prepping the bed with a coating of hairspray first is probably a good idea. That and making sure the Z height is zeroed in for that all-important first layer.&nbsp;FAQ<ul><li>Q: How many of the chain links does it take to make a foot (12") length? How many does it take to make a 4 ft length?</li><li>A:  1 foot is just a teensy bit longer than 7 of them (7 chain links is only about 1.5mm short of 12 inches), and 4 feet is just a teensy bit longer than 29 of them (29 chain links is only about 1.5mm short of 48 inches).  </li><li>Q: Can these be arranged for “print-in-place” printing?</li><li>A: Perhaps, but seems the answer is no. I attempted that without success. The chain link parts fused to each other.  </li><li>Q: What size screws are to be used for attaching the front end and back end parts?</li><li>A: M5 bolts/screws are what the mount holes are designed for.   </li><li>Q: The clips open from the inside or outside of the curve?</li><li>A: Inside.  </li><li>Q: What print orientation within the slicer is best for printing batches of the chain links? </li><li>A: There are at least two approaches. (1) The first (shown below, first illustration), has the chain links oriented all same way and has the columns “nested” into each other for maximum use of the printer bed (set of 9 on a bed that's 235x235 or so). (2) A friend on the V1 Engineering forum remembered once printing drag chain and having a curve in the resulting chain because the printer had some imperfection. So, he recommends having the chain links oriented in all four directions (shown below, second illustration) to protect against the printer being off a bit.  </li></ul>Illustration: chain links oriented all same way with columns “nested” into each other for maximum use of the printer bed:<figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/250838/rich_content/adf05bcb-639a-4b26-aeeb-046b0a727f04/thumbs/cover/800x500/png/oriented-all-same-way-and-nested-for-maximum-use-of-printer-bed-screen-shot-2022-07-30-at-75706-pm.webp"></figure>Illustration: chain links oriented in all four directions to protect against the printer being off somewhat:<figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/250838/rich_content/d4351a9e-15ed-4660-9f40-3243b026a21c/thumbs/cover/800x468/png/oriented-in-all-4-directions-to-protect-against-printer-being-off.webp"></figure>&nbsp;Change log:<ul><li>August 11, 2022: added screw holes onto mount fronts and ends, so that the mounts become bidirectional, while still being backwards compatible with previous version 1.12 parts.</li><li>August 4, 2022: provided additional choices so that the fronts and backs can have wires/cords exit “above” or “below.” Renamed design to version 1.12. All added new parts are compatible with the previous versions of this design.</li><li>July 30, 2022: posted tweaked version of both chain link and snap-on clip, to strengthen the clip's grip on the chain link.</li></ul>&nbsp;My PayPal tip jar: <a target="_blank" href="https://paypal.me/design8studio" rel="nofollow noopener">https://paypal.me/design8studio</a>&nbsp;Various LowRider 3 CNC remixes:<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/1800510193/collections/745685" rel="nofollow noopener">LowRider 3 CNC Collection</a></li></ul>&nbsp;View all my models and remixes:<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/1800510193" rel="nofollow noopener">Design8Studio 3D models</a></li></ul>&nbsp;*Amazon product links are affiliate links.

Drag Chain for CNC, two-piece, snap-open, 20mm x 40mm, 64mm radius (v1.13)

Cable Management

Cord Management

Plasma

Wire Management

MPCNC

Metalworking

LowRider

Featherboard for woodworking, no supports needed, with M5 & M6 options for knobs & track slides&nbsp;You may also be interested in my <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/197561" rel="nofollow noopener">Dust Collection Port (v1.0) for DIY Router Table - designed for 2.5" hose from Vacmaster shop vac</a>.<h3>Featherboard for woodworking, no supports needed, with M5 & M6 options for knobs & track slides  </h3><ul><li>Heads up on varying miter track / t-track dimensions: Not all table saws and/or router tables have the same specs. I designed the included track slides to fit the miter tracks of my new <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/3ryeNpb" rel="nofollow noopener">SKIL 10 Inch Heavy Duty Worm Drive Table Saw with Stand - SPT99-11</a>. (Wow, what a nice upgrade from my previous cheap table saw.) Whenever I finally get a router table built, it will have t-tracks (ordered and in-hand) that are more standardized. I'll then need to remix a new set of slides for that. Once I do, I will add the new ones here. In the meantime, if you remix this to suit your own needs, please consider posting the remix as a derivative of this, so others whose needs match yours, can benefit from your remix work.   </li><li>Choice of bolt diameter: I've included slides and knobs for both M5 and M6 bolts/nuts. I chose to use M5.   </li><li>Metric v Imperial: One Redditor comment indicated US folks can perhaps buy imperial bolts and nuts cheaper than metric. For such, consider that you can likely use imperial sizes that are close. Imperial 3/16” is slightly smaller than M5, but within 0.24mm of M5. Imperial 1/4” is slightly larger than M6, but within 0.35mm of M6. The imperial 3/16” will probably easily work without modifications, using the provided M5 items. Or, of course, feel free to remix the bolt hole size and nut hole size as desired. I might try to output an imperial version if I have time. No promises.  </li><li>Bolt length: I used 40mm length bolts. Here's a <a target="_blank" href="https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-5mm-x-40mm-Zinc-Plated-Fine-Thread-Hex-Bolt-4-Count/3012813" rel="nofollow noopener">link to the 4-pack from Lowes that I used</a>, but take note that unlike their site image, which shows only partial threads, the actual bolts were full thread.   </li><li>"Bolt down" (in knob) v. "bolt up" (in slide): I recommend bolt up — inserting the bolts into the slides, and inserting the nuts in the knobs. That not only allows you leeway on exactly how long your bolt has to be, but also eliminates the chance of a bolt sticking out too far below, and scratching your miter track / slide groove.   </li><li>Slides: thin “sacrifice layer” for successful prints: The track slides are designed with a 1-layer-thick sacrifice layer, which covers over where the bolt hole transitions from hex-head area to round-shaft area. You can burn that thin layer out with a soldering iron, or cut it out with an Xacto knife. Even a drill bit could be used to drill it open.   </li><li>Use a soldering iron to "heat-sert" the bolts into the slides. Speaking of the soldering iron, I suggest using it to press the bolt heads into the slide bottoms. I did that and it worked great. You want a snug fit on this, and the part was designed for a tight fit. I screwed the shafts in until the hex heads were positioned just against the hex holes, lined up in the right orientation, and then pressed the hot iron against the bolt head until it slid into place.   </li><li>As always, use at your own risk. Although proper use of a featherboard can make sawing/routing a bit safer, all use of a table saw or router table always carries some inherent risks, some of which cannot be completely removed simply by use of an aide. I am not responsible for any injuries sustained while using this design.</li></ul>PS: knobs shown in pics were from an earlier version (4-pointed instead of 3-pointed, and curved on top instead of flat).&nbsp;(Product links are affiliate links, when possible.)&nbsp;If you like my designs and benefit from them, consider thanking me by buying me a cookie through a gift sent at: <a target="_blank" href="https://paypal.me/douggjoseph" rel="nofollow noopener">https://paypal.me/douggjoseph</a><h3>Print Settings</h3>Rafts: NoSupports: NoResolution: 0.3Infill: 20%Filament: IIID Max PLAFilament colors: Yellow (main body), Blue (slide tracks), Black (knobs)&nbsp;Printing notes:You want these to be sturdy, so I suggest printing with 3-4 perimeter walls. I have my slicer settings such that my stock 0.4 nozzle emulates a 0.6 nozzle, so when I printed with 3 walls, it was as thick as 4.5 normal walls.&nbsp;How I Designed This:Designed in SketchUp Pro.&nbsp;Category: Machine Tools&nbsp;My PayPal tip jar: <a target="_blank" href="https://paypal.me/design8studio" rel="nofollow noopener">https://paypal.me/design8studio</a>&nbsp;Various LowRider 3 CNC remixes:<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/1800510193/collections/745685" rel="nofollow noopener">LowRider 3 CNC Collection</a></li></ul>&nbsp;View all my models and remixes:<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/1800510193" rel="nofollow noopener">Design8Studio 3D models</a></li></ul>&nbsp;*Amazon product links are affiliate links.