d.van.oevelen

jimcorner

Here's improved flow calibration compared to Orca or Bambu Studio. This is the third iteration from the original models: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/108065#profileId-115396" rel="nofollow noopener">Improved flow ratio (extrusion multiplier) calibration v1 by jimcorner - MakerWorld</a>, <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/179247" rel="nofollow noopener">Improved Flow Calibration v2 by jimcorner - MakerWorld</a>. The goal is to make flow rate calibration as straightforward as possible with a repeatable and clear standard.&nbsp;Please download the 3mf file and slice it yourself in Orca, the 3mf does not work with Bambu Studio bc it doesn't support per object flow ratio setting! As a result, the print profiles uploaded by other people here likely won't work.&nbsp;Why I upload this:<ol><li>the default flow calibration is bad at determining which flow rate has the smoothest surface with the monotonic top infill pattern, especially for white filaments. The result is often subjective.</li><li>There are too many test pieces to keep track of.</li></ol>What's improved compared with Orca/Bambu Studio:<ol><li>The result is now much more definitive and clear, I can even capture it with my phone camera as shown in the photos</li><li>The top surface is Archimedean Chords pattern instead of monotonic, and line width is increased to 0.6mm, making it much easier to tell which flow rate is the best and take out the guess work. All other settings are exactly the same as Orca Slicer/Bambu Studio flow ratio calibration, so the calibration print is set up similar to originally intended.</li><li>The test pieces are put together as one piece, instead of 10 smaller pieces that tends to clutter up space and easy to be lost.</li></ol>How to use this test:Prerequisite: open the 3mf file in orca slicer, and select the filament you want to calibrate.<ol><li>Pass 1: change the flow ratio in the filament tab to 1.0. Once that's set correctly, the flow ratio of the 7 pieces are: 1.12, 1.08, 1.04, 1, 0.96, 0.92, 0.88. Slice plate 1 named “rough”, and print. Find the flow ratio right before the raised right half circle appears, as flow_rate_rough. Usually this number is around 1.0, and if you know the ballpark number, you can use that value and skip this step.</li><li>Pass 2: change the flow ratio in the filament tab to flow_rate_rough from pass 1. Slice and print the second plate named “fine”. Going from bottom to top, find the second flow ratio that gives the raised right half circle, as captured in the photos above. This is the optimal value to use for future printing.</li><li>Optional: If there are fewer than two pieces with the raised right half circle, repeat pass 2 with increased value for flow_rate_rough.</li></ol>&nbsp;Notes: in pass 2, the flow ratio of the 7 pieces are: [1.03*flow_rate_rough, 1.02*flow_rate_rough, 1.01*flow_rate_rough, 1*flow_rate_rough, 0.99*flow_rate_rough, 0.98*flow_rate_rough, 0.97*flow_rate_rough]. You can also see this in the per object setting → quality → flow ratio. The actual flow ratio when printing is the filament flow ratio value set in the filament tab * the scalar set in the per object flow ratio scalar.&nbsp;&nbsp;Why/how well this works:The optimal flow ratio should make the lines squish into each other to fill the gaps, but they should not be squished together too much because severe over extrusion creates ridges and uneven surfaces. The goal is to find the optimal flow ratio for the right amount of squishiness between the extrusion lines. Here the Archimedean Chords pattern and larger line width of 0.6 amplify the effect of between-line-squishiness by inspecting the raised right half circle. As the flow rate goes up from the bottom to the top of the test pieces, the optimal flow rate would be somewhere when the raised right half circles start to appear as it means the lines start to get squished together. To account for the test error bar and filament diameter variation, I choose the second visible raised right half circle for the optimal flow ratio. In my testing this gives a smooth top surface in my normal prints with minimal/no signs of over-extrusion. And the results I get is consistent with the values provided by the manufacturers as well, which gives me confidence as this method converges with manufacturers suggestions. For example, in the photos, the red filament is polylite pla which has 0.95 flow ratio recommended by polymaker, and my test gives 0.95. The white filament is sunlu pla+ has recommended 0.98 flow ratio and my test gives 0.98.&nbsp;

Improved Flow ratio Calibration v3

Calibration

lindnjoe

Warning!! This takes patience to put together. Christmas Scene Lantern with 3 thin layers that fit into a base. The layers have tabs on the bottom that fit into the slits on the base. The front layer with the squirrel and mailbox is printed in two parts, you will need to put those two layers together to make one. The layers are printed very thin at 0.2mm. Be careful when taking them off the heat bed. Slide the tabs on the end into the slits on the opposite end.You can size up or down. For best results size up.I recommend a dab of glue on a couple tabs per section to hold the round layers to the base.3 Layers to print and 1 base. &nbsp;A tea light will sit in the middle. You need patience when putting this together.

Christmas Scene Round Lantern

Christmas

funny

TripleGWorkshop

Spiral Vase Mode - No Supports. Simple shapes combine with the equation of nature to create fun trees.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:79.07%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/150943/2023-11-01_ccdt7ywkde1i.jpg"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:78.85%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/150943/2023-11-01_1kcpa2s4hoz2.jpg"></figure>

Fibonacci Spiral Trees ⍋ Vase Mode V2

vase

Hamstah

Update 25/11/2023: I've added stronger versions of all 3 sizes. Some people were having difficulty printing the original model, so I've increased the height and thickened the links to give the model quite a bit more strength. The trade off is that the model is slightly less flexible, but definitely still a lot of fun to play with. Hope that helps!--&nbsp;Dual sided triangle “chain mail” style fabric. Fun to play with! I recommend printing the tester first, as it is really important that the filament adheres well to the bed for a good print. If one triangle gets knocked off the bed, it can ruin the print (though I have had success if one or two get knocked loose).&nbsp;The easier model to print (and more fun in my opinion) is the 120mm square, but I included a 250mm wide strip for those that want more of it.&nbsp;I also highly recommend using a plastic scraper to remove the print from the bed, and you won't be able to get the fabric to release by bending the bed, and pulling on the fabric will snap the joints.&nbsp;Consider changing filament on the middle layer to get a second colour on the flip side of the fabric!&nbsp;Warning: The 250mm wide version of the fabric takes a very long time to slice!

Fabric Fidget

fidget

SPStudio

Extruder AMS Filament Pull Back Fix

bambu

TheBear

<h3>Ho Ho Ho, and a Merry Christmas! </h3>Presenting the 5 gram Christmas Gift Bow!Easy to print, easy to assemble and easy to enjoy! Personally, I suck at making a nice bow on Christmas Gifts. I am, however, quite good at letting my 3D-printer do the work for me, while I sit back and relax. So, here we are! (Make sure to check out my <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/79308#profileId-86446" rel="nofollow noopener">Christmas Twisting Ornament</a>, for another great, low-weight Christmas print!) Update: A smaller version at ~3.4 grams is also available now!Be aware that the smaller version does require tighter bending, so the flexibility of your PLA needs to be even higher. I have tested it with a few of the regular PLAs I currently have in stock, and all worked fine. But your mileage may vary. Just be extra careful when bending. And if it keeps failing, consider just sticking to the standard version or follow the tip at the bottom of this description :-) <h2>Assembly</h2>Assembly is done by first feeding the top ribbon through the slots at the bottom, and then pressing it onto the circle mount in the middle (slightly bending the ribbon first does make the assembly a bit easier - please refer to my poorly filmed assembly video below). After that, the rest of the ribbons can be inserted under the middle and pressed onto the circle mount in any order, you like! The ribbons are supposed to be a bit tight, when pressing them onto the ‘circle mount’ - this is to ensure they stay in place, without having to glue everything in place. I wanted this bow to require no additional materials to assemble! <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/275104/2023-11-22_30c06d4ef46c.gif"> If you find the fit to be a bit too tight or a bit too loose, please try changing the X-Y Hole compensation in the Quality-tab in the slicer: <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/275104/2023-11-22_100b874fe1c26.png"> Now all that is left to do, is to attach the bow to the gift using some glue/tape/etc. <h3>Filament to Use</h3>I've personally succesfully printed and assembled the bow with both cheap, generic PLA, brand name PLA, PLA+, High-Speed PLA, etc. However, Silk PLA, Matte PLA and other “special” types of PLA might not work as well, as they can be too brittle to bend like this. You could try placing the print on the hot bed, set to 70-80 degrees, to heat up the bow after it has been removed from the build plate. That will soften up the PLA and might make assembly with these materials possible. I personally haven't tested this yet, so I won't guarantee anything :-) Shout-out to Paul Elrod for this idea of heating up the print using the hot bed prior to assembly. If you have issues with the ribbons creasing/breaking, it is often due to how the lines line up with the bend. Changing the Top and Buttom Surfaces to either Concentric can mitigate this issue. Increasing your wall count is also one way of making the print stronger! Merry Christmas and Happy Printing!

Christmas Gift Bow (Foldable)

things to make