James T.

MV design

Sfinx inspired book end

Statue - Landsmark

clement.m333

<figure class="media"></figure>Update : there is now a version that can be mounted on the X carriage of the Prusa Mini :) Hi !!I'm a jeweler and use my beloved prusa MK3s to design invented custom tools for my craft. The visualizer challenge, encouraged me to create something new, but with the same attention to detail than my jewelry and using some of my favorite design. The result is a mandala that rotate on a fixed base, giving the impression the design is forever growing.It is made of 3 parts : the base that is attached to the extruder.the clip that is attached to the base and allow you to mount it on the extruder. The top part that is the one moving. You will need a 8x3 mm magnet or stack 3 8x1mm on top of each others. Glue it to the prong of the top moving part.Alternatively there is a version for top parts with a print in place 6x2mm magnet that is embedded in the prong of the top part. So no glue required but another magnet. The design is in 3 parts, with the base, the clip and the top movable part. Prior to attach the clip to the base; please try it on your extruder to see if the fit is good or too tight. The clip 41.8 mm wide fits perfectly on my mk3s extruder but for some reason some users seemed to need a slightly larger one. I've added some other sizes for the clips in the print files; the stl and and the 3mf files. One of those sizes, I reckon the 42mm should also works perfectly on the x motor of a prusa mini. But I have no mini so cannot try myself. You'll need to push hard on the clip in the slots of the base to attach it, and then just clip the base to the extruder and place the top part. It's a tight fit so no glue is required.The 3mf and gcode files are already sliced with color change pause to get a bicolor print. &nbsp;I've used Pusament Galaxy Black PLA and Noulei Gold Silk PLA.&nbsp;There are three different designs for you to choose :)&nbsp;hope you'll like them !!&nbsp;Clément&nbsp;PRINTING INSTRUCTIONIf you don't want to use preslice gcode files, I suggest that you reslice the files using the 3MF files included, so you can profit from the printing way I've designed it. It's not a difficult print but I have included several layer high changes for different purpose. If you choose to slice the files from the stl, here are few recommandation :Add a color change gcode at 4.1 for the base. <ul><li>layer height 0.3 for the base, the clip and the top parts but :</li><li>layer height 0.2 from 3.8 to 4.6 for the base</li><li>layer height 0.2 from 6.8 to 7 for the clip</li><li>layer height 0.1 from 5.3 to 5.6 for the top</li></ul>For the top part : <ul><li> there should be no gap fill and no top layer on the layer 0.8 to 1.1</li><li>a concentric infill on the first layer looks better</li><li>no elephant foot compensation (if you usually don't get any). </li></ul>BEWARE of elephant foot for the BASE and the CLIP, the pieces are precisely design to fit perfectly but if there is elephant foot it is going to be hard fitting the pieces together. Slicing in prusaslicer you can set an elephant foot compensation, it should be at least 0.1, and could be more if your usual prints are subject to elephant foot. &nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/215764/2023-11-29_3ob6dgb72jng.gif"></figure>This is the TORUS 32 design<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/215764/2023-11-29_wbksnr2p6eg0.gif"></figure>This is the TORUS 16 design<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/215764/2023-11-29_cs2u8soc49bn.gif"></figure>This is the LOTUS design&nbsp;

Statue - Landsmark

Linda