cwertz

DatumCAD

<figure class="image image_resized image-style-side" style="width:38.08%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/807714/2024-03-28_dc0e9414cc303.gif"><figcaption>GIF - Exploded View Animation</figcaption></figure>An adjustable handle that can be attached to any existing Jigsaw blade. This compact tool allows you use the wide array of available blades in tight / hard to reach areas.&nbsp;I also have various other models for various blade types &amp; are yet more compact in size. Feel free to check those out too:<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/384113#profileId-284231" rel="nofollow noopener">Full size hacksaw blade handle</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/386059#profileId-286421" rel="nofollow noopener">Junior hacksaw blade handle</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/410315#profileId-312254" rel="nofollow noopener">Reciprocating saw blade handle</a></li></ul>This version has been specifically designed for T-Shank jigsaw blades (also known as Bayonet style).&nbsp;The dual thumb CAM levers gives the option to hold two different blade thickness, allowing you to quickly swap out a blade for another or just to dismantle when not in use. The tightly toleranced T-Shank rebate (in the handle body) also helps ensures the blade does not slip out once held &amp; it is as safe as possible to use. Like all these handles this took a lot of prototyping &amp; testing but works great. It is quick &amp; toolless to adjust….and satisfying to use as a result.&nbsp;Most standard ‘Jigsaw’ hacksaw blades are approximately 0.8 - 1.2mm thick. As such I have provided one 0.85mm and one 1.2mm size CAM in the main print profile, but others will be available in their own profiles; such as Intermediate CAM levers (for 1.0mm thick blades) …. so please feel free to check yours for compatibility and pick the most suitable sizes for you.&nbsp;Note: In this instance the CAM levers DO NOT need to be a super tight fit against the blade. This is because the rebate in the holder does a lot of the retention, and so the CAM only needs lightly pinch the blade to stop it lifting out. So, try not to force it if the thumb lock feels tight when clamping the blade….instead you could try printing the one of the other CAM levers from the Print profiles provided.&nbsp;If you like this model then you may also like my sliding <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/213504#profileId-233069" rel="nofollow noopener">steel ruler limit block</a> which also incorporates a CAM locking mechanism. Or any of my other <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/@DatumCAD" rel="nofollow noopener">DatumCAD</a> designs :)&nbsp;Fasteners: For this model you will need 2x M3 x 30mm fixings which act purely as strong pivot axles to the cam lever.&nbsp;Assembly:<ul><li>Insert the CAM lever into the Housing. Tip: Insert with the level in the closed / horizontal position as the holes will then line up easier.</li><li>Insert M3 Fixings. Tip: The fixings should pass though the handle housing counterbore hole &amp; the CAM lever relatively unhindered, but then will need lightly screwing into far handle hole which has been deliberately sized so as to require some tightening without to much force. (Remember these are just acting as pivot points, no need to tighten down hard, but equally the fixing should not want to fall back out either.)</li><li>Insert Blade. Top Tip: Open both of the CAM levers up around 180degrees from the closed position, so the CAMs don&#39;t interfere with or grab the blade upon insertion. Align the T-Shank with the rebate in the handle base. Once you have in the correct location, simply lock the both CAM fully down. Remember this should not be an overly tight fit.</li><li>Enjoy - your Jigsaw blade handle is now ready to use.</li></ul>I love designing for 3D printing, please take a look at all my other models which are all free (and will always continue to be)… if you value any of the downloads enough &amp; are able to support me, then please consider buying me a coffee to keep me going! <a target="_blank" href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/DatumCAD" rel="nofollow noopener">www.buymeacoffee.com/DatumCAD</a> <figure class="image image_resized" style="width:55.06%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/807714/2024-03-28_aff50facf9121.png"></figure>

Ultimate Jigsaw Handle

tools

Horvaticus

Hey folks,I wanted to upload some modified files I took from Tongo's original DC-17m combined with dalesaber's modified pistol grip. I repaired the geometry on the parts to make them manifold, and made a few tweaks on the foregrip, and rear receiver. I also split the pistol grip and trigger guard into two pieces, as I was running into issues getting a good print, as the sculpted model has a trigger guard that's around 1mm lower than the rest of the body. Cleanup work was done in Fusion 360 and Netfabb for the final extended repair jobs and optimization.All parts printed pretty well, as you can see from the pictures. I would recommend upping the resolution on the magazine, and be careful about support material - in my example photo you'll see that I have a lot of clean up work to do.I recommend post-processing this print with some XTC-3D epoxy, and using superglue to join the pieces together. If you are joining pieces together that were printed face down on a smooth build plate, make sure to scuff them up first.Please let me know if there are any problems with these models!<h3>Print Settings</h3>Printer Brand:SeeMeCNCPrinter: <div>Rostock Max v3.2</div>Rafts:Doesn't MatterSupports: <div>Yes</div>Resolution:.5mmInfill: <div>20%</div>Filament:Atomic PETG BlackCategory: Props

Star Wars DC-17m Clone Commando Blaster Rifle

nathan

Leon Fisher-Skipper

<h2>This Feature got implemented for P1 and X1 in <a target="_blank" href="https://github.com/bambulab/BambuStudio/releases/tag/v01.09.00.60" rel="nofollow noopener">BambuStudio Beta 1.9</a>. Please use this, as you can easily adapt the retraction length and turn the feature on and off as you please. A1 and A1 mini still have to use the download here.  </h2><h2>Description:</h2>TLDR: This mod allows you to use a lower flush multiplier without the color bleed that it would have with the default profile. &nbsp;Great <a target="_blank" href="https://youtu.be/suFbfer1WhI?si=7mcjxLNhubW9WR1a" rel="nofollow noopener">video</a> by butter pocket prints explaining this change.&nbsp;<h2>How to use it:</h2><ol><li>Open the 3mf file and save the Nozzle Profiles of your Printer to your User Presets. It will tell you that the G-Code was changed, confirm with OK, as this is exactly how the profile works. The profile name has to be changed to save it.  </li><li>Now you need to adjust your purge settings! I would just set the multiplier to 0.5 on P1 and X1 and 0.65 on A1 and A1 mini. The values may now show red in the purge settings, but they will still work. </li></ol>!Dont use with Silk PLA!  !Confirm that you are running the newest Version of Bambu Slicer. Orca Slicer may work but is not tested!&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Original Post from 14.09.2023 on Printables with the title “bambulab profile for up to 60% purge reduction” which has sadly since been deleted by prusa:&nbsp;&nbsp;<h2>Orginal Description:</h2>The biggest issue with The Bambulab printers is that during multicolor printing ridiculous amounts of purge (dubbed poop by some) are generated, when switching colors.(Example: <a target="_blank" href="https://reddit.com/r/BambuLab/s/iMiT0Bis6i" rel="nofollow noopener">https://reddit.com/r/BambuLab/s/iMiT0Bis6i</a> or <a target="_blank" href="https://reddit.com/r/BambuLab/s/wDpB3A3N6k" rel="nofollow noopener">https://reddit.com/r/BambuLab/s/wDpB3A3N6k</a>)This has to be done to clear the Printhead of the old color and replace it with the new color.The Print head has a internal volume bellow the cutter of 110 mm3, meaning that at least 110 mm3 of filament has to be flushed and an additional amount to account for the transition when the old color mixes into the new color.Of these 110 mm3 in the hot end, only half get melted, as the rest stays in the cold part around the heat sink.Here comes a neat trick I found: Before cutting, the unmelted part can get pulled up so that it can be fed back into the AMS. When the new filament is feed into the hotend, it gets pushed in an additional 20mm.This means that for every filament change 50mm3 of filament is saved.As a result much less purge volume is required.When the print ends, the filament also gets pushed out 20 mm, to also save filament here.The filament gets pushed out another 20mm during purging when starting the print too, to account for the push-back when the print ends.   The saving results can be seen in the first picture.I used this model (<a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/536401-bambu-lab-ams-purging-strips-p1p/files" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.printables.com/model/536401-bambu-lab-ams-purging-strips-p1p/files </a>) by Joey_466945 and printed it once with the „Save filament Profile“ and once with the normal on. The flush Volumes have to be set to 0 for this test! Each line on the strips corresponds to 100 mm3. It’s clearly visible that each transition is shifted by 50mm3.For advantageous color combinations like blue and red these 50mm3 savings correspond to a very high saving percentage. Combinations which have a lot of color bleed like white to black need a lot of purging still, so the percentage saved is much less.I printed two benchies for comparison (the left one is the saving Profil) and the quality stayed the same, despite the flush volumes being reduced by 50mm3. The benchy with my profile generated 60% less purge.Both prints used a prime tower though which stayed the same size.  The Profile only changes 8 lines of code in the G-Code.I tested thousands of filament changes and had no issues. Tests have been done on X1C, P1P, P1S and A1 mini. Edit: Silk PLA and Bambu support material should not be used with this profile. Tests by Bambulab indicate problems.   &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;—————————————————————————————————————————————————UPDATE 01.02.2024: I made a mistake with the A1 and A1 mini profiles. Retraction was now lowered and should improve reliability. Max. savings with A1 and A1 mini is now 33% and the net savings per filament change is 36 mm3. P1 and X1 still have a max saving of 45% and a net saving of 50 mm3. This is due to the changed geometry of the hotend, because the hot zone is a bit longer. This reduction is more on the conservative side, it is probably possible to get away with more savings, but I can’t test it yet as I don’t have a A1 or mini. &nbsp;UPDATE 25.01.2024: Bambulab updated the A1 and A1 mini print profiles, so I also updated them to the current version.I have also heard back from Bambulab and they are testing the feature. They have run into problems with Silk PLA though, so it seems it works not with all filaments perfectly. <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/1929892454" rel="nofollow noopener">@EyemJoe</a> also mentioned problems with Support filament. If you use these two filaments be careful. &nbsp;UPDATE 11.01.2024: I changed the start G-Code as on some printers the Load Line was incomplete on some printers.Thanks to <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@Cosquilla_523214" rel="nofollow noopener">@Cosquilla_523214</a> for pointing me to the issues and suggesting a fix. I also changed the title, as the calculated maximum saving is 45% for this method and not 60% as the title stated before. The 60% was what I observed on my testprint, but this was with a small quality reduction. 45% is without a quality reduction. &nbsp;I have also found out that Bill from 3D chameleon also was using retractions to reduce waste on the Bambu Printers a couple of months before me. I independently came up with this, but his hardware based solution is also very interesting. The big difference is, that my profile doesn’t require any hardware changes. If you are interested in multi color printing, his Chameleon is very interesting and was one of the smartest and best solutions before the Bambu AMS. It also makes Multi-color printing possible on any printer. If you are interested visit his <a target="_blank" href="https://www.3dchameleon.com/" rel="nofollow noopener">Website</a>, where he will also soon launch the MK4 version. &nbsp;UPDATE 18.12.2023: Now Profiles for all Bambu Printers and all Nozzles including A1, A1 mini and X1E.Thanks for @rc2k7_1528233, @Sven and @AustinWolt_1104655 for testing the A1 mini Profile.@AustinWolt_1104655 also made a <a target="_blank" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VLgqqTbFd3k" rel="nofollow noopener">Video</a> explaining how to use the Profiles.&nbsp;UPDATE 12.12.2023: I added profiles for all nozzle sizes and Printers including the P1P, P1S, X1C and one experimental profile for the A1 mini.All the profiles are saved in the same file. Save those you need to your User Presets.I also slightly updated the documentation in the code to make it more clear.&nbsp;UPDATE 20.09.2023: G-Code was modified so that the calculated amounts of waste from Bambu Studio are accurate. Before there was a small discrepancy.I also wrote the G-Code down below with instructions how to use the settings without the download.—————————————————————————————————————————————————  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;To use the changes without the download do the following:To use these changes go into Printer Profil and select one of the Profiles you want to change. If you dont use any custom profiles, just use the standard, in my case “Bambu Lab X1 Carbon 0.4 Nozzle” for the 0.4 Nozzle. <img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/582382/rich_content/e29a19a0-b85b-4006-869e-9fe5754d62ca/thumbs/cover/800x460/jpg/bambulabchangeprofil.webp">Then go into “Machine G-Code” and edit the G-Code in 3 of the text fields like described below. Save the changes afterwards.<img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/582382/rich_content/3ecd6635-2875-4137-a41c-7cb7eac954d2/thumbs/cover/800x459/jpg/bambulabchangeprofil2.webp">&nbsp;Changes to the g-code are marked bold in the PDF documentation.

Reduce purge by up to 45%.

tweaks

3D EVERYTHING

Honeycomb storage holder for single 3.5 in hard drive&nbsp;Printed in PLA on bambu X1Cdefault 0.20 mm Standard profile10% infill adaptive cubic

HSW 3.5in Drive Holder

sirfragalot

Did you know, most hamster wheels available commercially are unsuitable for hamsters?&nbsp;a) they are generally too small - hamsters benefit from much bigger wheels.b) they normally have a solid central axle that in the event of a mis-footing can see the hamster break its back.c) hamsters can cover several miles in a night, most of these wheels use friction bearings that wear out and worse can fail, leading to injury.&nbsp;Here is my new improved Hamster Wheel!&nbsp;There are two versions:One you print in vase mode - that is not as strong but is super light and is actually fine for most hamsters. I do not have a 0.6/0.8mm nozzle so can only just about manage 0.8mm walls on my 0.4mm nozzle. With a 0.6 or 0.8 you could potentially increase the wall thickness to 1.2mm or 1.6mm. To print this one you need to print both the wheel and the hubs / centre (in a seperate profile as BS only allow vase to be a global setting.)&nbsp;The 2nd is a normally sliced version - this is harder to print with more than a single colour, but with 1.2mm walls this one is solid enough even for a rat. (would probably need 12" not 9" for a rat though!)&nbsp;The only hardware you need are 2x 608 bearings for the hubs and the axle is an M8 stage / shoulder bolt. In my orginal design (<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/39443" rel="nofollow noopener">Silent Hamster Wheel by sirfragalot - MakerWorld</a>) I printed the axle bolt - and to be fair to it, it lasted about 8 months…and our hamster was on it ALL night EVERY night!&nbsp;&nbsp;

tools

nathan

tweaks

hsw

to print