brown.kyle.c

Soap_Warrior

这是一把香蕉长刀，他与我之前发布的香蕉爪刀原理和形状相似，安装需要使用直径10mm，厚度2mm的圆柱形磁铁。打印不需要支撑，没有AMS的A1mini也能打印，banananana！！！This is a banana long knife, it is similar to the principle and shape of the banana claw knife I posted before, and the installation requires the use of a cylindrical magnet with a diameter of 10mm and a thickness of 2mm. Printing does not require support, and the A1mini can print without AMS, banananana!!!<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:42.59%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/793616/2024-03-31_7a7dec75d8f44.gif"></figure>安装教程：与我之前发布的香蕉爪刀安装过程一致。可参考：<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/zh/models/400018#profileId-301518" rel="nofollow noopener">香蕉爪刀-Banana claw knife 来自 Soap_Warrior - MakerWorld</a>（偷个懒）Installation Tutorial: Consistent with the Banana Claw Knife installation process I posted earlier. See also:<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/zh/models/400018#profileId-301518" rel="nofollow noopener">香蕉爪刀-Banana claw knife 来自 Soap_Warrior - MakerWorld</a>&nbsp;

香蕉长刀-Banananana knife

food arsenal

Willi 3D

Create a STAP (Single Trooper Aerial Platform) for you or your battle droid.&nbsp;If you like this model, please throw me a like. Designing the models is time, filament and coffee consuming. <a target="_blank" href="https://www.paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=WGL5LXN5EHEXN" rel="nofollow noopener">If you want to support my work bye me a coffee.</a> Thanks!&nbsp;Description:This is a KIT CARD of a Star Wars STAP and compatible with my <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/models/13745?profileId=13463" rel="nofollow noopener">B1 Battle Droid</a>.Scale 1:9 (90% for 1:10)May the force be with you!&nbsp;Update:(02/08/23) -optimized bridging and assembly&nbsp;Printing:Layer height: 0.1Supports: NoBrim: NoMaterial: PETG, (ABS), (PLA)&nbsp;Assembly:The parts are put together as shown in the picture. The handlebar needs to be bent slightly to place the B1 droid on it.

Star Wars STAP Kit Card

gifts

FunkyArt

A 100% 3D printed Smartphone-holder-arm that offers, at least, three axes. And the option of double braces between the axes. In the standard configuration, the arm easily supports around 500 grams in any position. &nbsp;The versatility of this arm enables secure and flexible positioning of smartphones or even tablets and cameras (coming soon) in any desired orientation. Print with high infill and clean up the prints carefully, the minimal gap dimensions of the 3D printed parts ensure reliable function and solid haptic but could also be hard for some printers. &nbsp;You find more additional features and alternatives in the Download section. I will provide more Instructions soon.&nbsp;<figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FxNsubX2KjE"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/FxNsubX2KjE" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure>&nbsp;There are some additional upgrades in the download section, such as additional phone rotating movement and counterscrews, less tight screws and a bigger phoneholder.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/752785/2023-11-18_f7836c4a1c65.png"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:98.24%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/752785/2023-11-18_a6107c3f6e376.gif"></figure>What to Print?<ul><li>1x CZFA_Flexframe_BaseA_part11x CZFA_FlexFrame_BaseA_part2</li><li>1x CZFA_FlexFrame_PhoneMount (or the optional bigger one)</li><li>1x CZFA_FlexFrame_Mount-Mount (or the optional one with rotating axis)</li><li>1x CZFA_FlexFrame_Screw_cap-lid</li><li>1x CZFA_FlexFrame_Screw_small_Phoneholder</li><li>3x CZFA_FlexFrame_Frame_25cm</li><li>4x CZFA_FlexFrame_Screw</li></ul>Additional parts for rotating your phone, small phones adapter or counters crews..<ul><li>CZFA_FlexFrame_mount-mount-additional-movement-2-2</li><li>CZFA_FlexFrame_mount-mount-additional-movement-1-2 (you will need also one more small screw)</li><li>CZFA_FlexFrame_PhoneMount-small_phones_adapter</li><li>CZFA_FlexFrame_XL-PhoneMount</li><li>CZFA_FlexFrame_Counterscrew (optional to add more weight)</li></ul>Also less_tight versions of the screws.

Flexible & sturdy phone arm (100% Printed)

office

Clucky

These are three variations of warning extruding signs I first made with Fusion 360 and then made in MakerLab. The signs that were made in MakerLab are precolored in the .3mf file and all three fit on one plate if you want to print all three. The MakerLab signs are the ones labeled in the photos as MakerLab signs. The non labeled signs are the ones made in Fusion 360. For the signs made in Fusion 360, printing with all three colors at .2mm layer height, you will want to swap filaments at layers 6 and 11. Who doesn't need an extruding sign for their bathroom?

Extruding in Progress Warning Signs

signs

BC Designs

My AMS Hub was getting noisy, caused by filament grating on 2 of the input paths. I've been wanting to test replacing this with the A1 hub, but it has been out of stock in the UK for over a month. So I made one, with a mount.&nbsp;I wanted to keep the 4 way splitter compact but from testing longer internal filament paths worked much better/smoother. I've been using this now for over 2 weeks with zero issues.&nbsp;Requires 5 x PC4 M10 pneumatic connectors. Make sure the PTFE tubing goes fully through your fittings as it needs to be fully pushed into the internal channel.&nbsp;&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/739871/2023-11-12_012a2fe6509e7.png">&nbsp;&nbsp;PrintingIncluded 3mf file prints the 4 way splitter with a brim @ 0.12 and the filament buffer mount @ 0.20.If you are printing the STL files take a look at the included 3mf file first, and the support blocker, if not careful you will have supports in the filament path.&nbsp;&nbsp;FittingRemove the supports fom the output side that was printed face down. Push some filament through from the input side to ensure path clear.Remove the original filament buffer and re-mount on top of the printed mount, using the same screws.Screw in the PC4-10 fittings into the 4 way splitterCut a smaller piece of PTFE and insert in the output side, and slide the splitter into the mount as shown in the picture.Insert your AMS x (up to 4) PTFE tubing into the splitter, be sure to push all the way in&nbsp;&nbsp;

AMS Hub using filament buffer / 4 way splitter

upgrades

Ciuf_Ciuf

One of the worst and most stressful things about using AMS is the amount of purged filament that gets wasted, without considering the additional time for each print. So, I decided to create this simple file without having to make any modifications to the gcode or anything else.The goal, therefore, is to minimize the amount of filament during each purge. The only necessary tool is a caliper, but you can also use a simple ruler.&nbsp;You start by setting all the purges to 50mm³<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:37.92%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/140491/2023-11-01_4aedbe6bc42f2.png"></figure>&nbsp;Once you've chosen which filament to calibrate, through the slicer, you set the correct sequence of chosen colors. A simple example is the photo below.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:38.77%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/140491/2023-11-01_47d1448e5d29e8.png"></figure>All that's left to do is start the print and wait.What you will see in front of you will be something like this.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:35%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/140491/2023-11-01_5c560b0fe3b9a8.jpg"></figure>At this point, our friend, the caliper or ruler (depending on how precise you want to be), comes into play. What you need to measure is the moment when the color you've chosen stops blending with the previous color and finally takes on its clean color.&nbsp;In this case, to transition from gray to blue, 48mm are needed.Now, using a simple formula, you can calculate the final value to input into the slicer. Each rectangle is exactly 100mm³. So, you need to multiply the measured value by 2 and add it to the 50mm³ set previously. Therefore:&nbsp;Vdef = (Vmeasured x 2) + 50 = (48 x 2) + 50 = 146&nbsp;Now, I will input 146mm³ to make the color change from gray to blue.&nbsp;This process should be performed for all color changes and all possible combinations. In case the first rectangle is not enough, the one below will complete the purge. Just keep in mind that in the formula, in addition to the 50, the value of the first rectangle, which is 100, should also be included.&nbsp;For example, as it happened to me for the change from black to gray, I measured the second rectangle, finding 13mm, and then I applied the formula again, adding the value of the first rectangle.&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:34.24%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/140491/2023-11-01_556a3a54f7ecd.jpg"></figure>So, the calculation would be:&nbsp;Vdef = (Vmeasured x 2) + 50 + 100 = (13 x 2) + 50 + 100 = 176&nbsp;Therefore, I would input 176mm³ to facilitate the color change from black to gray.&nbsp;Using this method allows you to significantly reduce the amount of purged filament without affecting the color you'll load afterward. In the photo below, you can see the amount of filament that has been purged using this technique.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:34.07%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/140491/2023-11-01_e44854969175d8.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;Comparing it with the slicer's automatic calculation, the difference is quite evident. This technique allows you to reduce purging by 30% or even less, depending on how precise your measurements are.&nbsp;BEFORE<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:35%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/140491/2023-11-01_aaffe4a2460af8.png"></figure>AFTER<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:35%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/140491/2023-11-01_45cf9e0401d838.png"></figure>&nbsp;I hope this simple idea can help you, as it helped me, to reduce the amount of filament wasted during color changes.Wishing everyone happy printing and lots of fun!&nbsp;&nbsp;

AMS Purge Calibration

Calibration

Asdfgasdfg

Be careful downloading prints called “Fast” etc, those might be faster but that's because of a weaker design, they are spammers just taking the original profile, lowering the integral strength to get it to print faster, and as explained below, there needs to be a balance in the force of the spring and the rubber band. Those profiles might not work as well as intended. Its just spammers racing to the bottom, give them enough attention and soon there will only be profiles with 1 wall and 2% infil thats printed in 5 minutes but falls together if you look at it long enough.&nbsp;Double action OTF fidget toy for the fidget toy design competition.&nbsp;All you need is plastic and a rubber band!&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/234870/2023-11-13_2404c2f7a37e2.gif">&nbsp;If you like the idea but dislike the design bookmark the model and visit it after the competition is over and I will release all the source file so you can easily modify the body or blade/comb!&nbsp;<h2>Assembly instructions:</h2>NOTE: For the double action to work you need to have a balance between your rubber band and the springs holding the blade. You can use the strongest rubber band you can find and it wont really matter, but the switch will be harder to push. So you might want to try around with different rubber bands or different materials for the springs. If the switch is to hard for your liking, your rubber band is to strong. If the blade/comb does not fully extract or retract, your rubber band is to weak or your springs are to stiff.&nbsp;<figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rN4wuBX-5q8"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/rN4wuBX-5q8" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;<h2>How it works:</h2><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/234870/2023-11-18_6157ed5d0cf8b.png">

Double Action OTF Knife/Comb

fidget

mikecoscia

Hot Brown Morning Potion Coaster or Sign

Hot Brown Morning Potion Coaster

coasters 

Picture_it

A quick to print coaster. Pre-coloured for you, simple to print from your phone. If you want to change the colours or size, import using your computer. Click objects, then click on the object and choose the colour number to assign from your ams. They are also easy to paint in the slicer. I'm including face down for assorted finishes depending on the plate used, or face up with grooves to catch condensation.