bmwelch22

Desert3DPrinting

Here is a really neat Veroni Pencil Holder I made.NO SupportsNO Raftsinfill 15%0.2mm Layer Height2 WallsPowered by Make My Vase from MakerWorld (https://makerworld.com/makerlab/makeMyVase)

Pencil Holder (Veroni)

Organizers

All_Out_of_Plastic

Interlocking hexagonal display shelves with hidden interlock pieces and customizable back-plates designed to fit Nintendo amiibo.&nbsp;Installation NotesShelves are designed for use with #18 x ¾" wire nails. “Nail guide” is used for locating nail holes on wall as well as a depth guide when inserted into hex shelf assembly.Recommend assembling in sections prior to mounting on the wall as you build the structure. Use the nail guide as required, recommend at least (1) nail per (4) hexes with a minimum of (2) nails. Recommend gluing back-plates to display shelves.&nbsp;Print NotesPrinted with 0.6mm nozzle at 0.32mm layer height

Interlocking Hex Display Sheves

Display/Shelves/Organizers

Elothan

Often I found myself needing thumbscrews on my projects, and since M3-M8 are my most commonly used sizes i decided to make myself some, and this is my Knurled version of my <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/170179" rel="nofollow noopener">standard thumbscrews.</a>&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 43.64%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000170177/design/2023-12-14_z3acqpjob9ja.png"></figure>&nbsp;The thumbscrews are designed for socket head screws and use a nut in the compartment on the underside to connect them securely together. Make sure to tighten them as well as possible beforehand. If you want extra strong bond between the bolt and the nut you can apply some thread locker or similar.(I recommend to use nylock nuts)Depending on your printer, you might need supports in the cavity that holds the nut for the normal/first version, but it has been printed fine without if you place the nut side up.Changelog:14.10.22 Fixed an issue with M3 No supports. thanks to @<a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/social/246924-mathiasl" rel="nofollow noopener">mathiasl</a> for pointing it out :)&nbsp;My collection of other tools and related items can be found <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/3322519079" rel="nofollow noopener">here</a>&nbsp;I have also taken inspiration from JW693Ds suggestion and added a version with a punch trough layer of bridging if you have problems printing the normal one without support. That version is to be printed with the round hole facing the buildplate.&nbsp;Happy Printing, and if you like it, please post a make, as that is always appreciated :D

Knurled M3-M8 Thumbscrews

Parts

JF Lemay

Zelda TOTK cover dock Nintendo Switch&nbsp;J'ai vue un fichier méga similaire sur Thingiverse mais le STL était très lourd j'ai donc tout refait. &nbsp;Voici mon fichier&nbsp;J'ai aussi mis le 3MF multi couleur pour bambulab&nbsp;Merci :)

Zelda TOTK cover dock Nintendo Switch

Game Stuff

Becks86

Scratch card scratches&nbsp;This is a scratcher with which you can easily open scratch cards.&nbsp;Have fun printing.&nbsp;Your Becks&nbsp;________________________________________________________________________________________________________________&nbsp;Rubbellos Kratzer&nbsp;Dies ist ein Kratzer womit man ganz einfach Rubbellose aufmachen kann.&nbsp;Viel Spaß beim Drucken.&nbsp;Euer Becks

Scratch card scratches / Rubbellos Kratzer

Tools

technerd

I made this simple cutting jig for silicone tubes to get the perfect 19mm length and cross section cuts for my Ultimate Nozzle Wiper. The gaps are big enough to use a knife with a maximal blade thickness of 0.7mm. STEP file is included in case you want to do a remix. Happy printing!&nbsp;Ultimate Nozzle Wiper: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/93701" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/93701</a>&nbsp;You need a Quality Silicone Tube (200-300°C)You can find the silicone tube on amazon or if you&#39;re from germany here: <a target="_blank" href="https://schlauch24.de/Silikonschlauch-Meterware-3-mm-x-7-mm" rel="nofollow noopener">https://schlauch24.de/Silikonschlauch-Meterware-3-mm-x-7-mm</a>It is also available on aliexpress here: <a target="_blank" href="https://de.aliexpress.com/item/32608855966.html" rel="nofollow noopener">https://de.aliexpress.com/item/32608855966.html</a>&nbsp;Outer diameter = 7mmInner diameter = 3mm&nbsp;&nbsp;<figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://youtu.be/rk-14syxViI"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/rk-14syxViI" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure>

Cutter for Ultimate Nozzle Wiper

Julia Ebert

This is a big toy human figure that's inspired by a Lego minifigure. I spent a lot of time making this model from scratch to match the original design while making tweaks for tolerances, printability, and strength. While there were a number of minifigure models I found online, most were not designed for printing, which is a particular challenge for the leg, arm, and hand joints. I'm particularly proud of the universal clip I designed for these, which makes for easy assembly and stiff-enough joints to pose your figure.I designed the clips and tolerances for this model to be printed at 100% (10x original Lego scale), but people have previously had success printing my <a href="https://www.printables.com/model/78695-mega-lego-like-skeleton-101-scale" rel="nofollow">10x Lego-like skeleton</a> at smaller scales (eg, 50% or 5x Lego-scale).Now that I have a base model for a Lego-like figure, this opens up a host of options for specific Lego-like figures. If there's something particular you're interested in, leave a comment or send me a message! If you want to make your own modifications, I've included STEP files for all parts (just be sure to give credit for my original design).Fully assembled, this model stands 40 cm (~16 inches) tall. I printed mine with Hatchbox true blue PLA, Hatchbox true red PLA, and Prusament mango yellow PETG.<h4>Printing Instructions</h4>I've included 3MF files for all parts, and parts should import correctly oriented for printing.<ul><li>For PrusaSlicer 2.6+: you just need to load the project file. (This makes use of organic supports, for the legs, which are added with PrusaSlicer 2.6.)</li><li>For other slicers: I've included details about special instructions for all parts, so you should be able to replicate anything necessary for proper printing. Except where otherwise noted, I printed parts in PLA at 0.15mm layer height with 7% cubic infill and without supports.</li></ul>You will need to print:<ul><li><code>32x-connector-pins.3mf</code>: You should need 30 pins for assembly (or 26 if you print the solid head); this has 2 extra just in case. If you have trouble with bed adhesion, add a brim</li></ul><h5>Legs</h5><ul><li><code>legs.3mf</code>: Uses tree supports the top of the lower hole on the leg.</li><li><code>hips.3mf</code></li><li><code>2x-limb-clips.3mf</code>: This file contains two clips. You'll need to print one set of two in the arm/body color, and one set in the leg color. Important: I recommend printing this in PETG or ABS with 25% infill, because it will have to flex and PLA might snap.</li></ul><h5>Body</h5><ul><li><code>arms.3mf</code>: These print with a small surface area on the bed (the wrists), so you might want to add a brim if you have trouble with bed adhesion.</li><li><code>body.3mf</code></li><li><code>2x-limb-clips.3mf</code>: This file contains two clips. You'll need to print one set of two in the arm/body color, and one set in the leg color. Important: I recommend printing this in PETG or ABS with 25% infill, because it will have to flex and PLA might snap.</li></ul><h5>Head & hands</h5><ul><li><code>2x-hands-wrists.3mf</code>: Requires supports on the underside of the wrist clip. Like the limb clips, I recommend printing with PETG (or similar) with 25% infill.</li><li>One of: (all require supports on the underside curve of the head)<ul><li><code>head-face-mmu.3mf</code>: Print the head & face as one part with some sort of multi-material printer (e.g., Prusa MMU or Bambu AMS). Use supports on the underside curve of the head.</li><li><code>split-head.3mf</code> and <code>face.3mf</code>: Print the head (with cutouts) in two pieces. Use pins and glue to connect the halves. Print the face separately and glue it in.</li><li><code>solid-head.3mf</code> and <code>face.3mf</code>: Print the head and face as separate prints. Use supports on the underside curve of the head. Then glue the face parts into the head.</li></ul></li></ul><h4>Assembly Instructions</h4>In addition to the printed parts, you will need cyanoacrylate glue (CA glue/superglue). <h5>Legs</h5><ol><li>Glue the pins into the top of the hip. Add glue to the holes and bottom surface of each of the hip pegs and attach. Important: The slope of each hip peg should be facing out to the sides. If the pins don't want to go together, check that you have this orientation right!</li><li>Use the same gluing approach to attach the limb clips to each side of the hips.</li><li>Gently but firmly press each leg onto the clips. It should snap into place. The hips are symmetric, so you can't put the legs on backwards. This requires a fair bit of force, but you shouldn't need a hammer. If it won't go on, slightly sand or file down the outer head of the limb clip (rather than the inside of the hole on the leg). Warning: The clips are not designed to come out once they're attached, so make sure you're ready.</li></ol><h5>Body</h5><ol><li>Glue the limb clips into each arm, like you did for the legs.</li><li>Glue the wrist onto the hand, with the pins. Because of the relative print orientations here, it's best to use a bit more glue here to make sure it stays on.</li><li>Press each wrist clip into the arm. (They're the same, so you can't put in the wrong hand.)</li><li>Press each arm clip into the body. The body is also symmetric, so you can't put the arms on backwards.</li></ol><h5>Head</h5>If you printed the separate head and face pieces, glue the face pieces into the head. You may need to file or sand some of the face pieces to fit, depending on how well the supports worked.<h4>License Note</h4>This model is marked as non-commercial because I don't want anyone (including myself) having Lego come after them with a lawyer. If you choose to sell prints of this model, you do so at your own risk!

Organizers

Display/Shelves/Organizers

Parts

Game Stuff

Tools

Parts

Things to print