bkriegl.b3

ATTV85

<p>ABS or PLA</p><p>infill according if you want it as a prop or if you want to wear it :)</p>

Darth Vader Helmet

helmet

Neebick

<p>Update: I have added a <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/146363#profileId-159384" rel="nofollow noopener">scabbard</a> that is designed for this Master Sword.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>This one was a fun project to see if I could make a master sword that would could be all encompassing for its appearances in Tears of the Kingdom. The party trick being that the center jewel acts as a locking peg for which ever blade is inserted. It's modeled with a tight tolerance so that it will friction fit in. Just press the center of the jewel and the peg will slide out. This allows the blade to be removed. My idea was that this would be more convenient then printing and finishing 3 different hilts for each blade. Storage should be easier as well. Plus its just cool.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Glue and supports will be necessary for some parts.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>I have kept tolerances tight on some parts to help with friction fitting. I've found the blades need a couple insertions before it becomes easier. I figured this was better then a wobbly blade.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><h3>Parts</h3><ul><li>Blades - Each blade is designed to be printed upright on the plate. You will need 2 center portions to make a full length blade. I have included pegs which should be glued to join all the sections. I suggest thick walls. I print with 5 walls for good measure. Really helps with flex. Use supports for the peg holes. On the restored blade, I did not include a tip since it is the same as the original blade.</li><li>Cross guard - I have sliced this 2 ways: Sideways for more vertical printing. Excellent cooling is a must. I had very slight sagging towards the top of mine due to the sharp angles of the tips. Or sliced in half for a wider print but easier details if bed adhesion and warping isn't an issue. Supports are a must for both. Focus on the interior portions and tips.</li><li>Grip - Simple part. Print with flared portion on the plate. Make sure to glue it with the cutout portion facing forward. Important for the wrap to be aligned with the cross guard.</li><li>Wrap - This is was a trickier part for me since it kept coming loose from the bed. It doesn't have a very wide base so bed adhesion is critical. Supports and brims help. Has a built in peg to lock it into the proper orientation.</li><li>Jewels and Blade surrounds - Super easy print. Glue peg into jewel with inset on the back. Glue surrounds on cross guard.</li><li>Pommel - Two parts for nicer printing. Use grip to help align while gluing halves together. Can remain removable with future upgrades...</li></ul><p>&nbsp;</p><h3>Video Demonstration</h3><figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AtKNojgwpLE"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/AtKNojgwpLE" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure>

helmet

collection