benjamin.emser

reddadsteve

Road Runner, a cartoon character in the Looney Tunes and Merrie Melodies series of short films produced by Warner Bros.Road Runner, also known as Beep Beep, speaks only with a signature "beep beep" (sometimes misheard as "meep-meep") noise and an occasional "popping-cork" tongue noise. His nemesis, Wile E. Coyote, utilizes absurdly complex gizmos and elaborate plans to try to catch him, but fails every time.No supports are required. One piece contains built-in supports and one piece contains built-in braces. Optional parts without the built-in supports/braces are also supplied if you want to use your slicer supports (see notes below). If you have the proper filament colors, no painting is needed.The assembled model is 155mm tall, 280mm long, and is in proportion to my previously released Wile E. Coyote model.Enjoy!...........................................................................................................Special shoutout to maker Benoît Lussier for providing QA printing and quality feedback............................................................................................................**Print Instructions:** Supports: No Resolution: .2mm Infill: 10% (see optional special considerations for the dust)Notes:**Refer to the notes below for a few helpful printing and assembly instructions............................................................................................................**Building the model**ColorsBlack: (Paramount3D PLA - Black) eye_black_right eye_black_left ..Yellow: (Paramount3DPLA - Egg Yolk Yellow) beak beak_without_supports (optional piece) foot_left foot_right ..Dark Blue: (Parmount3d PLA - Cadet Blue) head wing_left wing_right ..White: (Overture PLA - White) eye_white_left eye_white_right ..Light Blue: (3DSolutech PLA - Aqua Blue) body tail tail_without_braces (optional piece) ..Transparent: (Bumat ABS - Transparent) (see notes for filament options for this part) dust...........................................................................................................**Printing and assembly tips**Printing tips 1 - No supports are required. One piece contains built-in supports, beak, and one piece contains built-in braces, tail. Optional parts without the built-in supports/braces are also supplied if you want to use your slicer supports. The built-in supports are designed for a .4mm nozzle (be sure you do not set your slicer for 'thick bridges') and for the size that the model is presented. Use your discretion for which parts to use if you resize the model significantly. 2 - There are some pieces that may need brims or rafts, use your discretion. When setting up my prints I prefer to be conservative to ensure the least chance of a print failure, especially since the base of many parts are hidden when inserted into another part. *I used brims on: (no parts required brims or rafts)3 - The eye_black parts are the only parts that are very small. It may be wise to print extra copies in case you drop them.4 - When removing parts from the printer bed, it's a **VERY** good idea to place left/right parts into separate containers to help with the assembly process. Sometimes the difference between the left and right parts is very small but it is still worth keeping track of them and assembling them in their proper place.5 - I just happened to have a transparent ABS on hand, so I used it for this model. I did try a crystal clear filament and personally felt that even though the legs were more visable, the rest of the dust did not look as good. In addition, the feet stick out enough that an opaque filament might still look good for this model.6 - For transparency in the dust for the feet to show through, I used the 'lightning' infill pattern at 10% infill... Assembly tips:1 - Take your time gluing the model together and enjoy the process. Give some thought into which parts to glue together as groups and then gluing the groups together. Let the glue for each group set completely before combining groups.2 - I used 3D Gloop and E6000 to put this model together. I am not affiliated with 3D Gloop but have experimented with different glues for my models and have found that this glue is a great option for my models. Each type of glue has different pros/cons and I found that 3D Gloop was far easier to use than superglue (for me). The E6000 sticky glue that I also use allows more time to position parts and is still the best for smaller parts. 3D Gloop covers the middle ground for me and really works wonders. It leaves enough time to set, so parts can be positioned correctly and it dries fast enough to hold awkward parts without the need for taping. I used the PLA version that comes in a tube. For both glues using a smaller amount is usually better than more glue.3 - The eye_blacks should be inserted into the eye_whites before putting the eye_whites into the head/beak assembly.4 - The neck to head connection is not as convenient as I would have liked due to the shape of the parts. I glued all the head parts together and glued all the rest of the parts together. Once the glue on both sections were fully set, I then joined the head to the body using 3dGloop. A fast drying glue is preferable for this joint.5 - Benoit glued the feet to the body and inserted the combined part with a rotation to follow the opening in the dust. No need of glue. 6 - Refer to the assembly diagrams in the pictures section as well as the uploaded pictures for putting the model together. The model is meant to be glued.Do not hesitate to ask questions, feedback is essential to making better models.&nbsp;

Road Runner

looney toons

mclanesmemories

Fan Art of the Guardians of the Galaxy - Rocket, Groot and Star-Lord each on their own Bookmark.&nbsp;Please share your prints&nbsp;Print at 100% infill with a layer height of 0.08mm with a base layer of 0.16mm&nbsp;Swap Instructions: Start with Black At layer #2 (0.24mm) swap to Brown At layer #5 (0.48mm) swap to Yellow At layer #8 (0.72mm) swap to white

Fan art set of 3 bookmarks - Guardians of the Galaxy Star-lord, Rocket and Groot

hue forge

vandragon_de

As the largest building in the world, I also wanted to include it in my collection. There are already some models, but I thought I'd give it a try. In the end, it wasn't quite that easy. In 1:1000, the tower is already quite considerable in size&nbsp;Printer settingExtrusion width (over all): 0.4 Perimeter generator: Classic&nbsp;Support:Only required below the main entrance roofs at Part 1.&nbsp;Notes:The connections might be a little too big, but that depends on the printer. Otherwise, either glue or put some tape around the individual connectors to give them a better fit.

Burj Khalifa

kollektion

ptesza

Halloween style stained glass or Tiffany glass. Can be mounted on window glass, lamps where light can filter through or anywhere creative. It has a coloured layer and a white top layer. The top layer can be replaced with a transparent one but care must be taken to use the same filament material for each colour.

Halloween style stained glass owl

Eulen

πxel8ed

Started with designing a “ship in a bottle”. Ended up with this.&nbsp;Updates:<ul><li>1/20/2024: Updated model to double the strength of the webs. Check out the “V2” profiles.</li><li>1/16/2024: Uploaded a few tweaks to the Designer Profile (One, two, and three color versions) which enhance small details on the ship and improve print reliability</li><li>12/26/2023: Added “Optional Uplighting Kit” profile. It&#39;s a fast print, compatible with a variety of LED&#39;s and fits nicely. Makes the base of the model more significant so also a nice upgrade to add a contrasting portion to the base. Pick plate one or plate two depending on your preferred LED&#39;s:<ul><li>Plate 1: Fits the LED puck from the <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/13717#profileId-13429" rel="nofollow noopener">Bambu Labs LED Lamp kit</a>.</li><li>Plate 2: Allows the installation of a length of LED light strip (or fairy lights) of various types. If you&#39;re just getting started with custom LED installs <a target="_blank" href="https://youtu.be/exAWzMfmwQ8?si=8TnrTyI9Lngt3264" rel="nofollow noopener">check this video out</a>.</li><li>Plate 3: Includes a lens that fits in the model base to diffuse the light from the LED&#39;s. The Bambu LED is very bright so I prefer printing the lens in white or colored PLA rather than translucent.</li></ul></li></ul>The Designer Profile (One, two, and three color versions) supports all Bambu Lab printers. Just make sure the Designer Profile is selected in Bambu Handy, click Print, then select the plate you want. If you instead open it in Bambu Studio you may need to select your printer model at the top left dropdown and choose to transfer all settings before slicing and sending to the printer.<ul><li>One color takes ~7hrs</li><li>Two color takes ~8hrs</li><li>Three color takes ~24hrs!</li></ul>Big thanks to <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/319145709" rel="nofollow noopener">@zviratko</a> for figuring out a work around to make one color prints reliable.&nbsp;Suggestions on removing support material if it does not just pop off initially:First, be sure to let it cool down completely before attempting to remove the support. We want it to be stiff, not flexible.When removing the support; hold the ship portion of the model firmly with one hand, with the other hand use the biggest needle nose pliers you can to grab the support chunk from the bottom where it was attached to the build plate. Make sure you have a firm grip and twist the pliers clockwise/counter-clockwise then pull straight out. Take your time. Don&#39;t expect it to pop off in one go. You&#39;re just hoping to cause some cracking noises. Then move the pliers to a different spot and repeat the twist/pull to hopefully create some more cracking noises. You&#39;re trying to achieve the same effect as when you bend a paperclip back and forth until it breaks. Eventually the support will come loose, just be patient.&nbsp;Enjoy!

A long time ago in a galaxy far, far away....

star wars

SK07 Skipper07

This very high detailed model includes a very high detailed base, which is perfect to storage your candies or a gift for the upcoming Christmas season. The base Container model is surround by snow, trees and shining stars to catch the main theme of this print. The top is contains a snow base with a gingerbread house and three trees.

Christmas Cake Container

keksdosen

YelTrik Designs - Click FOLLOW

If you've had issues with filament feeding and pulling back successfully through the AMS Filament Buffer during multiple changes, this AMS Connecting Rod is designed to help align the PTFE tube and should help reduce the likelihood of these issues. If you haven't had this issue, take my word for it, print this as a precaution. This is a two cent print where the big end connects to the barrel of the AMS Filament Buffer plug and the small end to the PTFE tube. <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/1072890529" rel="nofollow noopener">CLICK HERE TO CHECK OUT THESE OTHER PTFE ACCESSORIES</a>