Billy Cravens

Thicc

Are you tired of boxes slipping and sliding around your trunk? Not anymore with these vehicle trunk retainers. Construction is easy. Print and attach 20mm velcro hooks to the retainer&#39;s foot. The best aspect of this design is the velcro allows for the retainers to be infinitely reused and reorganized.&nbsp;Print Settings<ul><li>Use a 0.4mm nozzle, I cannot guarantee the success of other sizes</li><li>warmer climates should consider printing this in ABS or ASA</li><li>15% infill</li><li>.25mm first layer to improve adhesion.</li></ul>Update - proven that articulated retainer can print laying flat, which is much easier and quicker to print. Print profile adjusted to include this change

Car Trunk Velcro Retainer 

Jamal

This is a case design for the Omnipod 5 controller. I noticed there are no designs out there that allow for an AirTag to elegantly be placed within the case. I&#39;ve seen people using epoxy, silicone stickers and all sorts of various other workarounds. I decided to design a simple yet sleek case as well as an option to add an AirtagThe case was designed with PLA printing in mind so it can be as accessible as possible for people. I have not tried it with TPU yet but give it a go and let me know how it goes. There are slits in the case at the top right and bottom right corners to allow some flex taking the case off. I recommend holding the device sideways, with the buttons facing up and pushing the controller out using the opening for the buttons whilst pulling the case in the opposite direction. The device comes out pretty easily this way, should you need to take it outPlease share any makes with pictures! I&#39;d be curious to see them<h2>TO PRINT THE AIRTAG CASE -</h2>Print these two files: Case - Omnipod 5 case with Airtag cutout.stl AirTag insert - Omnipod 5 case AirTag insert.stlPrint the case without supports and lay it flat on its back. I recommend printing at the highest temp you can for PLA with the lowest cooling fan amount (don&#39;t go above 240 degrees) to improve layer adhesion and case strength. The lower temp you print the more likely the case might split when you take it off and put it on. At 220 degrees I was able to snap the smaller edges off the case with some force but at 240 with lower cooling fan I could not physically break it using all my strength. I also highly recommend printing at double the layer width of your nozzle to improve squish and layer adhesion. So if you have a 0.4mm nozzle, set layer width to 0.8mm. Leave your first layer width at default. Don&#39;t use a brim or raft etc otherwise you&#39;ll give the case sharp edges and will feel rough in your hand. There is no need for extra bed adhesionI printed first layer at 220 degrees then the rest at 240 degrees with 50% cooling fan on my Bambu Lab A1 mini. Outer walls at 60mm/s with inner walls at 300mm/s but this will depend on your printers capabilities. Its not necessary to use 100% infill but it gives a nicer finish to the inside of the case and your slicer will only add 1 or 2 layers of infill anyway so might as well make it 100%. I used a 0.4mm nozzle so I opted for a 0.82mm layer width in Bambu Slicer since it defaults to 0.42mm. I left the first layer width at the default of 0.5mmFor the AirTag insert print it with the dome on the top and use tree supports with a spacing of 8mm. The rest of the support settings are up to you as to what works for you normally. Support settings vary from printer to printer so I won&#39;t offer too much recommendation here. If you don&#39;t have pliers to pull the supports out of the dome then print it in another orientation where supports will be easier to access. I recommend printing it with the dome upwards so the supports are inside and you won&#39;t see the rough first layers of overhangs when the AirTag is placed inside<h2>TO PRINT THE NON-AIRTAG CASE -</h2>Print this file:<ul><li>Omnipod 5 case without AirTag.stl</li></ul>This case has a cutout for the camera instead of having an insert for the AirTag. For those who just want a case design without the need for an AirTag.Use the same settings as described above, copied below for easier reference:Print the case without supports and lay it flat on its back. I recommend printing at the highest temp you can for PLA with the lowest cooling fan amount (don&#39;t go above 240 degrees) to improve layer adhesion and case strength. The lower temp you print the more likely the case might split when you take it off and put it on. At 220 degrees I was able to snap the smaller edges off the case with some force but at 240 with lower cooling fan I could not physically break it using all my strength. I also highly recommend printing at double the layer width of your nozzle to improve squish and layer adhesion. So if you have a 0.4mm nozzle, set layer width to 0.8mm. Leave your first layer width at default. Don&#39;t use a brim or raft etc otherwise you&#39;ll give the case sharp edges and will feel rough in your hand. There is no need for extra bed adhesionI printed first layer at 220 degrees then the rest at 240 degrees with 50% cooling fan on my Bambu Lab A1 mini. Outer walls at 60mm/s with inner walls at 300mm/s but this will depend on your printers capabilities. Its not necessary to use 100% infill but it gives a nicer finish to the inside of the case and your slicer will only add 1 or 2 layers of infill anyway so might as well make it 100%. I used a 0.4mm nozzle so I opted for a 0.82mm layer width in Bambu Slicer since it defaults to 0.42mm. I left the first layer width at the default of 0.5mm

Omnipod 5 PDM case with AirTag

medical

Wojciech Kawa

My AMS overlay design with slot numbers. I used gray and white to make the numbers as visible as possible, but you can of course use any color combination.&nbsp;&nbsp;I designed a version for users who mount their AMS lite on top of an A1 printer (AMS lite Top Mount for A1). link in the image.<figure class="image"><a href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/168898#profileId-185503" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000116582/design/2024-02-03_e53ecb69887dd.jpg"></a></figure>&nbsp;<h3>Update !</h3>I noticed that some users wanted to protect their Bowden tubes from the excessive wear and tear of tugging, and I thought it might make sense, so I added Bowden tube holders to my earlier design.The standard version and the version with Bowden tube protection have upside-down versions for people who mount the AMS on the wall or on dedicated stands.&nbsp;&nbsp;Check the flow ratio before printing. My print has a few flaws, but they are visible only in photos, normally they are almost invisible.&nbsp;<h3>Updated May 9, 2024</h3><ul><li>I replaced the source files from stl to step, which makes the model walls smoother.</li><li>Due to the information from the comments that the model is too tight in some cases, I increased the length by 0.5 mm, which should solve the problem. (the width is the same so I shouldn&#39;t be too loose)</li><li>Attention! Models with increased length are only in my print profiles!</li></ul>&nbsp;&nbsp;<figure class="image"><a href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/wojciechkawa" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000116582/design/2024-01-30_46d010488f47e.webp"></a></figure>

AMS Lite Numbers

3d printer

Dead Pixel

<h3>Description</h3>This set of boxes is designed specifically for storing cables. They have a lightweight design to use minimum amount of plastic. Extended container&#39;s edge prevent cables from slipping out.  This boxes are alteration of my original design ( <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/503229#profileId-424003" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/503229</a> ) but are adapted to work with Gridfinity modular system. I tried to keep them as light as possible and they are just a little bit bigger and heavier than the previous. But if you are not interested in using grid system I would recommend to stay with original model.The boxes are made in 6 sizes and have variations with or without slots for magnets on the bottom side. All of them are two slots wide but vary in length.<figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center">Used slots on a grid</td><td style="text-align: center">Dimensions, mm</td><td style="text-align: center">Compartments</td><td style="text-align: center">Weight, g (With magnet slots)</td></tr><tr><td style="text-align: center">2x1</td><td style="text-align: center">42x84x66</td><td style="text-align: center">2</td><td style="text-align: center">28 (29)</td></tr><tr><td style="text-align: center">2x2</td><td style="text-align: center">84x84x66</td><td style="text-align: center">4</td><td style="text-align: center">45 (48)</td></tr><tr><td style="text-align: center">2x3</td><td style="text-align: center">126x84x66</td><td style="text-align: center">6</td><td style="text-align: center">63 (66)</td></tr><tr><td style="text-align: center">2x4</td><td style="text-align: center">168x84x66</td><td style="text-align: center">8</td><td style="text-align: center">80 (84)</td></tr><tr><td style="text-align: center">2x5</td><td style="text-align: center">210x84x66</td><td style="text-align: center">10</td><td style="text-align: center">97 (102)</td></tr><tr><td style="text-align: center">2x6</td><td style="text-align: center">252x84x66</td><td style="text-align: center">12</td><td style="text-align: center">114 (120)</td></tr></tbody></table></figure><h3>Gridfinity</h3>For those who don&#39;t know what Gridfinity is, here is link to the designer&#39;s site <a target="_blank" href="https://gridfinity.xyz/." rel="nofollow noopener">https://gridfinity.xyz/.</a> You can find a lot of various models suitable for this system on different marketplaces.&nbsp;<h3>Printing recommendation</h3>I recommend to use PETG or PLA+ for better durability but regular PLA will also work fine. Should be printed without supports.  You need magnets of 6mm diameter and 2mm thickness for variant with magnet slots. But it is not necessary to use magnets in every slot. It&#39;s up to you to decide where to place them.<h3>Compatibility</h3>This organizer is ideally suited for managing short (up to several meters) flexible cables. It is not suitable for thicker or stiff cables like HDMI, DisplayPort and similar types.&nbsp;<boostme><boosttitle>Boost Me</boosttitle><boostcontent>If you like my models and find them useful you can support me by boosting my designs. Thank you!</boostcontent></boostme>

Gridfinity Cable Organizing Boxes

desk

KYZ Design

Gridfinity baseplates completely remodelled from scratch, designed to minimise print time.<ul><li>Lower overall height (top trimmed)</li><li>Flares on the bottom removed</li><li>Smaller radii</li></ul>Designed for PLA and other materials with good first layer adhesion. You may need to add a brim to print with ASA/ABS. Print <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/76537" rel="nofollow noopener">these bins</a> next! <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/285381/2023-11-28_4d90d07fb6c75.png">&nbsp;Check out <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/11128021/collections/26498" rel="nofollow noopener">this collection</a> for my other Gridfinity models andcheck out <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/11128021/collections/18964" rel="nofollow noopener">this collection</a> for my Honeycomb Storage Wall models.

Gridfinity Superlight Baseplates

gridfinity

samywamy10

An Ikea Skadis mount for the Ryobi One+ IntelliPort Battery Charger (RC18115)

Ryobi One+ Battery Charger (RC18115) Skadis Holder

garage

Sven97

<h2>Changelog</h2><blockquote>2024/01/06 Update</blockquote><ul><li>Upload wider version of the holder</li><li>Change the name from “scissors holder” to “tool holder”</li></ul><h2>Background</h2>I have different tools (scissors, small wrench, caliper, etc.) piled in my drawer. So I want to make them more organized hanged on my IKEA pegboard.<h2>Model Details</h2><ul><li>No support needed in printing to ensure a smooth surface</li><li>Easy to attach and move, no tools needed</li></ul><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000085478/design/2024-01-07_1682f815c16ba.png"><ul><li>Regular version<ul><li>2 hooks in the back to ensure the attaching strength on pegboard</li><li>Top opening: 35mm x 15mm; Bottom opening: 20mm x 15mm</li></ul></li></ul><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000085478/design/2024-01-07_c724feb5c24f3.png"></figure><ul><li>Wide version<ul><li>2 hooks in the back</li><li>Top opening: 75mm x 15mm; Bottom opening: 60mm x 15mm</li></ul></li></ul><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000085478/design/2024-01-07_bc991c483108a.jpg"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000085478/design/2024-01-07_0fbc438ceddb6.jpg"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000085478/design/2024-01-07_e622f2aa0fe9f.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://buymeacoffee.com/sven97" rel="nofollow noopener">Buy me a coffee</a><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000085478/design/2024-05-16_dbdbd1d081c9.png"></figure>

IKEA Pegboard Tool Holder

skadis

lordjustice17

A space efficient silverware tray following the Gridfinity guidelines. Has spaces for small and large spoons, small and large forks, and knives, and has a 10 unit height with a 4 unit x 6 unit footprint.