a-mihm

michelem

Welcome to our cozy Midcentury Modern Birdhouse!&nbsp;It&#39;s not just a home for birds – it&#39;s a stylish retreat full of cool features like a Wifi enabled camera for birdwatching and more!&nbsp;Around the house, you&#39;ll find cool stuff like a modern textured panel, tiny cacti, a cute wooden-effect wall, a pergola for shade and a handy tray for seeds or plants. There&#39;s even a pop of color with a fun angular piece!&nbsp;Of course, there&#39;s a 35mm entrance and a little perch for our feathered friends.&nbsp;But the coolest part? The roof has a big opening covered by a magnetic box that looks like a mini terrace. It&#39;s not just for looks – you can put a plant in it with the &#34;Terrace Box&#34; component or add a WiFi camera with the &#34;Blink Support&#34; part to see what the birds are up to!&nbsp;It comes with mounts for walls or poles, so you can place it wherever you like.&nbsp;Printing it is easy but takes a bit of time. Since it&#39;s for outdoors, use tough materials like PETG, ABS, or ASA is recommended. PLA might fade or warp in the sun.&nbsp;You&#39;ll need screws, bolts, inserts, and magnets – check the list below for everything you need!&nbsp;Assembling it is quite intuitive, but I have attached the complete instructions.&nbsp;To add the Wifi camera you will need a Blink device (works with Blink Outdoor 3 or 4). You could need also the Sync Module or an Alexa device to connect the camera to.&nbsp;I personally used these:&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.it/dp/B086DKRWCH?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details" rel="nofollow noopener">Blink Outdoor Camera</a> <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.it/dp/B084RPZGR2?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details" rel="nofollow noopener">Blink Sync Module</a>&nbsp;NOTE:It&#39;s recommended not to install the birdhouse in direct sunlight, especially if equipped with the WiFi camera. Best place would be under a tree or similar.&nbsp;Dimensions&nbsp;The base is 25cm x 20cm. The house with terrace is tall about 19cm max.&nbsp;Unfortunately, I&#39;ve just finished and mounted the first one, so I don&#39;t have any videos of our little friends to show you yet. However, here&#39;s a peek inside with the camera:&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000468694/design/2024-05-19_c9dc902e65eab.jpeg"></figure>Get ready to enjoy building your birdhouse and making new feathered friends!

Modern Midcentury Birdhouse - Wifi Camera enabled

Garten

Josh-3D

[Introduction]6/27/2024 - I just wanted to say thank you to everyone that has downloaded and printed the shuffler! I&#39;ve had a few bumps in the road, and a few bugs to work out. I appreciate you all, the comments, the suggestions, and I&#39;m sorry for any of the issues caused by trying to get these early bug fixes and everything out there. It&#39;s like my own little No Man&#39;s Sky! My personal A1 Launch, haha. &nbsp;I had to adjust the model for sleeved cards, and I realized that might have caused some troubles for those that might have started printing the original one and then tried switching to the updated version. If it makes you feel any better, I&#39;ve got a whole pile of parts from upgrading the ones I made prior to my o-ring fix. &nbsp;I&#39;ve updated the instructions with some written notes to help clarify the assembly where needed. Hopefully I&#39;ve covered everything. &nbsp;I&#39;ve updated the BOM to include the o-rings properly for when you go to buy the parts from Maker&#39;s Supply. &nbsp;6/23/2024 - Minor Update. I had updated the profiles, but the X1/P1/A1 Profile didn&#39;t get updated correctly, it appears. I&#39;m very sorry about this. I&#39;ve just updated it and verified. If you want to make sure you have the latest, it&#39;s simple; the original had a plate for the TPU rollers all their own, but in the new profiles, they are part of the plate with the shafts since they are PLA now, with O-Rings. &nbsp;6/22/2024 - Big Update! I adjusted the model to accommodate sleeved cards. I had to ditch the TPU rollers. They worked for the most part for un-sleeved cards, but weren&#39;t perfect. For sleeved cards, it was no good. Luckily for me, Bambu started to carry O-rings on the Maker Supply, and Bob&#39;s your uncle, we&#39;re in business. It&#39;s much better. As much as I wanted to like TPU rollers, they were just still too smooth. I&#39;ll update the BOM section fully once I can link to the Maker&#39;s Supply entry for the o-rings. They are easy to find elsewhere too though like on amazon, or even your local hardware store for that matter. &nbsp;This update has a slightly longer base, so all the mid sections are a little longer. Ends/gears all stay the same. It&#39;s been working well for sleeve and unsleeved cards for me, in the Skip-bo to regular playing card size. Should be able to handle things like MTG and your other beloved sleeved card games. <figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000497170/design/2024-07-01_424973d9eac09.png">&#34;</figure><figure class="media"><oembed url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d2rctBx6R20"></oembed></figure>I haven&#39;t been to keen on the card shufflers available commercially, and feel most of the ones designed for 3d printing don&#39;t really elevate themselves to a consumer level product. Thus, this card shuffler was born. I wanted something stylistic, and not just functional. Inspired by old printing presses, with those cast iron frames. Although, it looks a bit like a boiler too, I&#39;d say.&nbsp;Sized for standard playing cards. (64x89mm + plus sleeves, or there abouts, is the max size card it&#39;ll shuffle). I sized it to be able to shuffle a full skip-bo deck, which is 160 cards. It can do about 80 sleeved cards, in testing. Might have to make an extra tall version for bigger decks and big sleeved decks! &nbsp;It&#39;s been running smoothly for me, especially since upgrading to O-rings. The grip on them is much better than the original TPU rollers. There are occasional jams that happen, when the cards don&#39;t fall right. I think as long as you aren&#39;t going too slow and keep a good pace, usually it&#39;s fine. Sometimes it helps to shift the whole thing back and fort slightly to shake the cards loose and get them to settle. &nbsp;[Hardware Required]&nbsp;Featured FilamentsBambu PLA Metallic Iron GrayBambu PLA Metallic Copper BrownBambu PETG-CF Brick Red&nbsp;Bambu PLA Galaxy NebulaBambu PLA Glow GreenBambu PLA Metallic Copper Brown&nbsp;Bambu Matte Grass GreenBambu Marine BlueBambu Lemon Yellow&nbsp;Notes about PrintingAs Noted, you&#39;ll want TPU for the pads. At least that&#39;s what I designed and set them up for. I also set them up to use fuzzy skin, to hopefully give a little more texture to grab onto the cards. &nbsp;I highly recommend using a smooth PEI bed. (It&#39;s not required, and you can absolutely print the whole thing on your bed of choice. I just highly recommend the Smooth PEI bed for PLA because it holds well, and for smaller parts with a thin profile on the bed, it tends to hold much better. Like the spacers I use in step 4.)&nbsp;Hardware Required :36x M2.6x8mm Self Tapping Screws (Bambu&#39;s BT2.6x8mm self tapping screws) (From the <a target="_blank" href="https://us.store.bambulab.com/collections/self-tapping-screws/products/bt2-6-socket-head-cap-self-tapping-screw-shcs" rel="nofollow noopener">Bambu US Store</a>)9x MR128ZZ Ball Bearings (inner = 8mm, outer 12mm, height = 3.5mm, such as <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-MR128-2RS-Groove-Bearings-Double/dp/B082PPLHLQ" rel="nofollow noopener">this one from Amazon</a>, or from the <a target="_blank" href="https://us.store.bambulab.com/collections/steel-deep-groove-ball-bearings/products/micro-steel-deep-groove-ball-bearings?variant=42504744960136" rel="nofollow noopener">Bambu US store</a>)4 O-Rings OD 24x2.5mm  ( From the <a target="_blank" href="https://us.store.bambulab.com/collections/makers-supply/products/o-rings?variant=42561621753992" rel="nofollow noopener">Bambu US Store</a>)&nbsp;[Upgrading from the TPU Roller version]<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 51.3%"></figure>If you&#39;ve already printed the card shuffler, but want to upgrade, please refer to the above graphic for the parts you&#39;ll need to reprint. Make sure you print 2 of the axels, pad drums, and the card holder/bracket. In addition you&#39;ll need two extra screws to secure the drums to the axels, and the 4 O-rings. &nbsp;If all you want to do is upgrade the pad drums, then you should be able to slide them on the original axles, however be aware that they aren&#39;t secured with friction like the TPU pads were, so you might need to glue them or use some other method to fix them once installed, if the fit is too loose. The new axels are slightly longer, but also have a hole for a self tapping screw to tap into. &nbsp;&nbsp;[Assembly]<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000497170/design/2024-06-15_2b08e90375684.png"></figure>Step1: Screw the end plates on. <figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000497170/design/2024-06-15_1adb06ad5af73.png"></figure>Step2: Assemble the two side card holders, then slot them in and screw them into the main body. <figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000497170/design/2024-07-01_8bbf798eae572.png">&#34;</figure>Step3: <ul><li>Install the o-rings onto the two drums.</li><li>Install the bearing on the end of the shaft and then screw the end cap into place to keep it secure. </li><li>Insert the drum into place, and then insert the shaft through the drum and the main body. Install the set screw to set the drum into place.</li></ul>(Caution: Do not overtighten! Loosen screw a little of bearings bind)<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000497170/design/2024-07-01_cab12fd5e7267.png">&#34;</figure>Step4: <ul><li>Insert the bearings onto the shafts, followed by the spacer and then the gear. Make sure the bearing is fully seated.</li><li>Make sure the gears are orientated right. The Arrow pattern on the gear should point in the direction of travel. Inward! </li><li>Screw the gears into place. </li></ul>(Caution: Do not overtighten! Loosen screw a little if gears bind)<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000497170/design/2024-07-01_ebf978ef5c756.png">&#34;</figure>Step5:<ul><li>The Tricky part</li><li>For each gear there is a gear peg and the bearing. Insert the bearing into the end plate, and insert the gear peg into the gear. Make sure the gears are fully seated.</li><li>I insert the small gear and then the large one. With the large one I try and angle it in a little, and use a little force to jam it into place. </li><li>You&#39;ll want to try and rotate the pads so the flat ends are opposite each other before installing the large gear. </li></ul><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000497170/design/2024-07-01_15779ddde2fa8.png">&#34;</figure>Step6: Insert the bearings into the gear bracket and make sure they are fully seated. Screw the bracket into place. <figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000497170/design/2024-07-01_f1903c7fa1759.png">&#34;</figure>Step7: <ul><li>Insert the bearing into the crank arm, and then sandwich it between the peg and knob, and secure it with a screw. </li><li>Screw the crank arm onto the large gear&#39;s shaft with an end cap to help keep it secured. </li><li>Shuffle some cards! </li></ul><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000497170/design/2024-06-15_9c88d6ec0f9ee.png"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000497170/design/2024-06-15_c4986513a4b3f.png"></figure>&nbsp;-------If you like my work, consider showing your love by <a target="_blank" href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/josh3d" rel="nofollow noopener">Buying me a coffee</a>. Additionally, if you&#39;re looking to sell prints of my design, please check out my <a target="_blank" href="https://www.patreon.com/josh3d/" rel="nofollow noopener">Patreon</a> page for more information. on.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;

Card Shuffler

Spiele

Jorge Rui

<h3>Introduction and contextualization</h3>A box for spools, I know there are many out there, but for those who already know me, they know that I like to do things my own way. So, I decided to make a box for the filament spools.  What is particular about it, you may ask:<ol><li>It must be closed and provide the best possible seal (I think I&#39;ve managed to do that)</li><li>Allow its production on the Bambu Lab X, P and A1 printer&#39;s (the mini is out), and that why the model is divided in 4 parts.</li><li>Easy printing with minimal material usage, PETG and TPU, and 3 screws and corresponding nuts to create a good seal, which is necessary for insulation.</li><li>It should be aesthetically pleasing, visually communicating its function (more on this later).</li><li>Be aesthetically interesting while fulfilling functional needs (such as sealing and others).</li><li>Allow for the placement of some desiccant at the base to maintain controlled humidity levels.<ol><li>Check my <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/878116-desiccant-container-for-spools" rel="nofollow noopener">Desiccant container for Spools</a></li></ol></li></ol><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 75%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000467045/design/2024-05-18_jwx6iotd86ps.png"></figure>This version cannot be used to feed the printer with filament (see image bellow, serving instead as a temporary storage container and always with the accessory mentioned in the previous point to keep humidity levels low. It should last for a few weeks... The time it takes for the desiccant to become saturated depends on the humidity in your area. I recommend <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/3ywHAkg" rel="nofollow noopener">silica desiccant</a>, which can be reused by heating it in an oven or microwave.For more permanent storage, you can use vacuum bags.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000467045/design/2024-05-18_fsi2f6dt0gkp.png"></figure>So, here it is saying hi and taking off his hat ;)<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000467045/design/2024-05-18_m7g62ayx5544.png"></figure>&nbsp;The Closing clips can represent the color and material that inside the box, the text on the clip can be edited on Bambu Studio.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000467045/design/2024-05-18_j4bvn16x1kfz.png"></figure>You can choose between the version with or without the logo, chose the 3mf file that suits you best.<blockquote>For some reason, there has been a movement within the community against displaying the Bambu Lab logo on my work. In my opinion, the logo is an interesting graphic element and much like in some sports, people enjoy showcasing the brand, creating a sense of belonging to a group. While there could be many reasons for opposition, tastes are subjective, making this a trivial matter that I will not discuss more.Another point to note is that neither Bambu Lab, Prusa, nor any other company pays me to include their logo on these models. This process is an inherent artistic feature. To end this, beauty is always in the eye of the beholder.</blockquote><figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000467045/design/2024-05-18_aopgdwqnicdc.png"></figure></td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000467045/design/2024-05-18_zw0sh990xfk2.png"></figure></td></tr><tr><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000467045/design/2024-05-18_9evotkab6205.png"></figure></td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000467045/design/2024-05-18_kybvegq67dk5.png"></figure></td></tr><tr><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000467045/design/2024-05-18_l67ul8rmcu4t.png"></figure></td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000467045/design/2024-05-18_c8y9du0irie6.png"></figure></td></tr></tbody></table></figure>And an example of a printed part with Translucent PETG from bambu labThere is a other version, prime, that was designed with the filament feed in mind, more advanced, with rollers, pneumatic adapter and other features:<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000467045/design/2024-05-18_xv9fv02vwmir.png"></figure>If you are “<a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@jorge_rui/store" rel="nofollow noopener">my club member</a>” you can download it <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/880895-spoolbox-for-bambu-lab" rel="nofollow noopener">here</a>.<h3>Printing parameters</h3>Special care has been taken to provide the models with the printing parameters already defined; however, you are free to change whatever you them if necessary. The use of multiple colors should not hinder those who do not have a multi-material printing unit, as there are only 4 color changes throughout the process. That being said, the provided 3mf files are configured for use with the AMS and changing them for printing without the AMS is up to you.  I would like to emphasize that these models cannot be distributed in any way or form; therefore, any alterations are solely for your own use. This decision stems from issues I had previously, where my work was copied extensively, leading to accusations that I had copied the models myself (my own models…)<blockquote>Some may have some special feature that you can configure to your linking&#39;s. An examples is the closing clip that you can change the text label and material color to match the spool material.</blockquote><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 50%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000467045/design/2024-05-18_i6ypksrelafw.png"></figure><ul><li>Printing material <a target="_blank" href="https://shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=2354730&amp;u=4026304&amp;m=138211&amp;urllink=&amp;afftrack=" rel="nofollow noopener">PETG and TPU</a> from Bambu Lab,<ul><li>Other material can use other materials you may prefer, like <a target="_blank" href="https://shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=2354730&amp;u=4026304&amp;m=138211&amp;urllink=&amp;afftrack=" rel="nofollow noopener">PLA</a>, but PETG can make translucent parts (not easy, but possible (very slow and hot with a nice quality filament without moister, and don&#39;t expect &#34;glass&#34; like opacity. Here you can find an exceptional example of application: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/15310-how-to-print-glass" rel="nofollow noopener">How To Print Glass by Rygar1432</a></li><li>the file “SpoolBox_translucent.3mf” contains some top lids (with logo and clean) with a configuration that I think will render you the best results without taking you days to print. The one made by Rygar1432 will give you the best result, but will be a very slow print approx. 20mm/s</li></ul></li></ul><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000467045/design/2024-05-18_zzqvbl8t0tfh.png"></figure><h4>Parts included that are needed to print</h4><ul><li>Base (<a target="_blank" href="https://shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=2354730&amp;u=4026304&amp;m=138211&amp;urllink=&amp;afftrack=" rel="nofollow noopener">PETG or PLA)</a>;<ul><li>Right</li><li>Left</li></ul></li><li>Top (<a target="_blank" href="https://shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=2354730&amp;u=4026304&amp;m=138211&amp;urllink=&amp;afftrack=" rel="nofollow noopener">PETG or PLA</a>);<ul><li>Right</li><li>Left</li></ul></li><li>Joints (<a target="_blank" href="https://shrsl.com/4cpo2" rel="nofollow noopener">TPU</a>)<ul><li>Volume 1 &amp; Volume 2, They include:<ul><li>Side<ul><li>Top</li><li>Bottom</li></ul></li><li>Top<ul><li>Right</li><li>Left</li></ul></li><li>4x Foot&#39;s</li></ul></li></ul></li><li>Hinge and Closing Clip (<a target="_blank" href="https://shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=2354730&amp;u=4026304&amp;m=138211&amp;urllink=&amp;afftrack=" rel="nofollow noopener">PETG or PLA or any other material you like)</a><ul><li>in total there are 2 parts, that print in place 4 bodies.</li></ul></li></ul><h4>Assembling</h4>See image on how to assemble (The exploded view may help one this, so check it)<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000467045/design/2024-05-18_bega79b57gvh.png"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000467045/design/2024-05-18_04y1zjviaeqs.png"></figure>The feet&#39;s on the base must be glued if you what to use them (recommended).If you want to add a humidity sensor, there is a configuration for that on the 3mf file included. I&#39;ve use this <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/3WDsFPk" rel="nofollow noopener">temperature and humidity sensor</a>.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000467045/design/2024-05-21_4423bb8d0b54f.png"><figcaption>Box with humidity sensor</figcaption></figure><h4>Support the designer:</h4>This design is free for the benefit of the community, but If you like my designs and want to contribute, you can make a donation to <a target="_blank" href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/designrepcom" rel="nofollow noopener">buymeacoffee </a>or <a target="_blank" href="https://www.paypal.com/donate/?business=BUM67EMDJRXSN&amp;no_recurring=0&amp;currency_code=EUR" rel="nofollow noopener">paypal, </a>or even better, join “My Club” here in printables.com, that will be greatly appreciated.Change Log<ul><li>(17-05-2024) - Initial release</li></ul>

SpoolBox 4 all

Filament_Box

emazzarol

<h2>IF YOU ENJOY MY MODELS, YOU CAN SUPPORT ME IF YOU&#39;D LIKE. VISIT THIS LINK AND BE GENEROUS. https://buymeacoffee.com/emazzarol THANKS</h2>&nbsp;Howdy y&#39;all,after going through all the comments on the previously uploaded Dresser and considering everyone&#39;s input, I&#39;ve decided to whip up a shorter version that&#39;s perfect for those of you working with limited vertical space.I went ahead and printed everything in PETG, and here are the printing deets for you:  Walls: 3 perimeters, Bottom and Top: 3 perimeters, Infill: 10%.Layer Height: 0.2 mm. Nozzle 0.4 mm  At the end of each file name, the number in parentheses indicates the quantity of units to be printed for that particular piece. I&#39;ve still uploaded two print profiles—one for the 0.4mm nozzle and another for the 0.6mm. Just a heads up on this:Plates 6 and 7 are for the front, including the drawer fronts, and they sport a bamboo-style pattern. If you prefer them smooth, you&#39;ll find the same pieces on Plates 19 and 30. Just a heads up, the print plate support isn&#39;t included in the print profile. It&#39;s up to you to decide whether you want it on the right or the left.  Here&#39;s a video below to walk you through the modifications and assembly of this dresser. As for the hardware, refer to the large dresser project:| https://makerworld.com/en/models/51225#profileId-180913

Bambu Printer Drawers Mini

Bambu

christiansotelo2244

A modular hydroponic tower garden made by <a target="_blank" href="https://www.thingiverse.com/boundarycondition" rel="nofollow noopener">boundarycondition</a> on thingsverse!

Garten

Spiele

Filament_Box

Bambu

Hydroponic