alexcummings312

Madness3D

Candy bowl with handle shaped as a pumpkin head.&nbsp;2 sizes9cm opening and 6 cm opening.&nbsp;Remove the support properly from the handle pinch mechanism (make sure all support i removed) and then carefully pinch the mechanism through the holes in the bucket.&nbsp;

Candy bucket - Halloween

Halloween 

Pork3D

Boaz RingAdd a touch of refinement to your everyday with the Boaz Ring! This geometric patterned ring embodies strength and swiftness, making it perfect for anyone who appreciates a hint of elegance. Features:Round yet strong shape with geometric patternsIntricate details and symmetrical design Printing No supports needed0.2mm Nozzle

Boaz Ring by Pork3D.com

OuijaWitch

<h2>Please take the time to read before you print, thank you.</h2><ul><li>AMS NEEDED!!!!</li><li>File is upside down for a nice textured or smooth finish</li></ul>THE MODEL IS LAYING FACE DOWN ON ITS FACE on the build plate for you already! The textured side of the model when you take off your build plate is the front of your model.&nbsp;I do have this model posted on my patreon if you are interested in the commercial rightsto sell. The link to my patreon is posted on my profile.&nbsp;-If you are having adhesion issues, please slow your machine down for the first several layers.-Please use glue adhesive if you are having issues with the print sticking -Message me directly if you need ABSOLUTELY any help or have any questions.

Best Mom Keychain 3 Colors

mothers day

Slowpoke's Workshop

Black and Blue Butterfly

butterfly 

Buzzzz

Simple large size poop chute to catch waste filament.165mm x 90mm x 165mm. Can easily catch 500-600 filament poop.&nbsp;Fits printers with filament spool in the back.&nbsp;If needed, it can be hold in place with a M3 x 8mm screw replacing the original M3 x 5mm screw or with three 15mm x 3mm magnets.&nbsp;Turn AUX fan off or set to 10% and open door and vent top glass to prevent corner from lifting when using PLA on large printd.&nbsp;Small version here <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/models/61768#profileId-64195" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/de/models/61768#profileId-64195</a>Medium version here <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/models/68789#profileId-72955" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/de/models/68789#profileId-72955</a>&nbsp;

Poop Chute with screw or magnet option

maintenance 

Unrivaled3D

Easy to print sign with AMS ready and no AMS files included. No prime tower is needed for this style of multicolor print.&nbsp;I make most of my signs 15mm thick so they can easily stand on their own but this can be changed by altering the z height in slicer with uniform scale unchecked.&nbsp;I've worked on a profile for this style of signs for awhile now and I am happy with the results so I recommend trying it out.

Mike Trout 27 Sign Display Wall Desk Shelf Art

office 

Numimadosa

Little Letter card or money holder for that special someone you want to spoil on Valentine's Day or any other day. This Print is perfect as you can write a special message and include a gift card or money inside. Happy Printing!!!

Valentines Letter

easter

user_782351002

Printed on Bambu X1C with Bambu Basic PLA filament. Standard presets for .4 nozzle. Textured PEI plate.

Scream Light Box

light box

Josh-3D

[Intro]I would like to introduce to you my fancy Scifi Box! Or crate? Treasure chest? Do I need to model some gold coins for you to fill this thing up with? Hehe.&nbsp;I wanted to produce a crate of sorts that'd be larger than the print volume, but assembled in a way that it didn't feel like it was just a model chopped up to fit into a printer's build volume. This is the results of those efforts. Part of my goal with this too was to make it easy to print, have cool styling, and have some sort of latch/locking mechanism (although it is primitive, it is still cool). For bonus points, I made it stackable!&nbsp;[What you'll need]&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:37.91%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/683999/2024-02-09_b6ff735a9db58.png"></figure>Tools:Hex Driver #3 & #2.5Drill bits for clearing out holesFile for cleaning up edges where berm is used, or whatever tool you like for that job.&nbsp;Hardware:16 M4 Nuts (Used for connecting the End Caps, Ends, And Mid section together. 8 M4x25 (Used to connect the Ends to the Mid section) 2 M4x30 (Used for the hinge) 2 M3x5 (Used on the Lock. You can Use M3x6 screws, but don't over tighten them, as it'll push through and show on the front) 14 M4x10 (6 for the Lock, and 8 are used to connect the End Caps to the Ends)&nbsp;Filament I used: (For reference! Use the colors you see fit!)Mid - Bambu PLA Iridium Gold MetallicEnds - Bambu PLA Matte CharcoalHardware - Bambu PLA Basic Bronze   [Getting ready to print]You're going to need about 2kg of filament for this case. It'll be about 1kg for the ends, and a little less for the mid/lid section. I modeled everything to be relatively easy to print, but they're still big full plate models, so make sure you've got things like warping under control (On the P1/X1 for example, turning off the aux fan!), that your bed is super clean, and yeah. These are big prints, so let's check ourselves before we wreck ourselves, because a failed print here can be costly.&nbsp;There is a little post processing that should be done with the models once they're off the build plate. Holes will need to be cleared for where the screws go, as I modeled a flat plane in place to help keep them clean. Additionally, on the lid, you'll want to make sure a screw can insert into the hole freely, and use a drill to clear it out if need be.&nbsp;[Assembly]Let's get to it, shall we? We'll start with the lid. Make sure a m4 sized screw will fit freely into the hole. We don't want it super loose, but we shouldn't have to screw it in. <figure class="image image_resized" style="width:55.37%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/683999/2024-02-10_c9999fe6e110c.png"></figure>Next, we'll assemble the lock mechanism. Two M3x5mm screws are used as stops for turning the lock. You can use 6mm length screws, but be careful not to put them in too far, as it'll push out and blemish the front surface of the lid. For everything else, use M4x10mm screws.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:55.83%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/683999/2024-02-10_41aad9dca556f.png"></figure>Now it's time for the body.&nbsp;1. Clear out the holes using a drill, so the screw can pass freely through.  (Planes were modeled in to help support the screw holes during printing)2. Inset 8 M4 nuts on either side of the mid section into the slots. &nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:55.28%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/683999/2024-02-10_f1141dd059fd4.png"></figure>(Keep in mind these drawings show the assembly of one side, but both sides should be done at the same time)3. Make sure you clear out the holes with a drill bit, like we did in Step 1 for the main body.4. Now, we'll use M4x25mm screws to attach the ends to the main body. Do this for both sides.5. For the hinge, we'll use a M4x30mm screw, or longer. These are just pushed in, and to hold them in completely, we'll insert a plug/dowl to help keep them in place. Before you put the screw/dowl in for the lid, position the lid in place (This step is not pictured!). Make sure you're happy with the fit of everything before you secure the lid, as once you get the screws and plugs/dowls in, it'll be difficult to remove them.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:59.3%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/683999/2024-02-10_0b45c572681a.png"></figure>6. The lid should be installed at this point, with both ends installed. From here we'll attach the end caps. Firstly we'll insert 4 M4 nuts on each end.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:58.99%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/683999/2024-02-10_e51dd47e5aea7.png"></figure>7. We'll use 4 M4x10mm screws on each side, screwed into the holes inset into the bigger holes! Once we have all of those in, we'll cover them up with the end plugs. The slot in the plugs is sized to work best with a coin. <figure class="image image_resized" style="width:60.06%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/683999/2024-02-10_35cdd6dea4d61.png"></figure>That's it! Enjoy!&nbsp;-------If you like my work, consider showing your love by <a target="_blank" href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/josh3d" rel="nofollow noopener">Buying me a coffee</a>. Additionally, if you're looking to sell prints of my design, please check out my <a target="_blank" href="https://www.patreon.com/josh3d/" rel="nofollow noopener">Patreon</a> page for more information.

Scifi Crate

saves

Seymour3D

I created this Mickey/Minnie Mouse Croc Jibbit for all the Mickey Mouse lovers!&nbsp;I hope you guys enjoy this cute print!&nbsp;Filament: Bambu Lab, PLA Matte - Ivory White, Scarlet Red

Mickey/Minnie Mouse Croc Jibbit

jibbitz

RP47 Designs

Print at 100% infill with a layer height of 0.08mm with a base layer of 0.16mm200mm x 200mm.&nbsp;Filaments Used: PLA+ Sunlu Black Transmission Distance: 0.6 PLA+ IIID Max Red Transmission Distance: 5.5 PLA+ Sunlu White Transmission Distance: 5&nbsp;Swap Instructions: Start with Black At layer #11 (0.96mm) swap to Red At layer #18 (1.52mm) swap to White for the rest.

Valentines Hueforge

hue forge

Poldion

Introducing the "Skadis Stand" – the sassy and stylish solution to elevate your IKEA Skadis pegboard game to new heights! Crafted with precision using the wizardry of 3D printing, these quirky appendages transform your humble pegboard into a majestic masterpiece.&nbsp;&nbsp;Check out my Other Skadis Stuff in my Profile!

Skadis Stand

waxounet

Keychain Jar

jars

Garfield_Enthusiast

Designed a little radiohead branded coaster. The rim has hexagonal texture, and the design is recessed into the face of the coaster. The lines are actually taken from the album cover The Eraser, whose cover art was designed by artist Stanley Donwood. I would have made these “lines” smaller, but ran into some issues with png to svg file conversion. I hope you enjoy, and please feel free to directly message me if you want certain aspects removed, although this shouldn't be a problem given that i've included the original stl model file.

Radiohead Coaster - Mugs and Cups

coasters

Disttrack3D

Easy to print ashtray that can be used outdoor if you print in adecuated filament.&nbsp;If you use this ashtray in outdoor y recommend PETG or ASA

Ashtray / Cenicero

ashtray

unequaledryan

Imposter wax candle making kit! Great holiday gift for the imposter in your ship.&nbsp;Printing tips:<ol><li>You should not need to use any supports or brims. Orient as needed, and should be pretty obvious.</li><li>If you can, increase the detail/smaller layer height towards the top of each Positive so the layer lines are less noticeable.</li><li>PLA is rumored to react negatively to silicon liquid latex due to the sulfate in PLA, but I have not had any issues so far using PLA.</li><li>Make sure your printer is not over-extruding. Slightly under-extrude if needed.</li></ol>&nbsp;Thing you'll need:<ul><li>Silicon Mold material, found at Michaels, online, etc. Look for liquid latex rubber style</li><li>Paraffin Wax - Best we found for these was the 100% paraffin at Michaels. Do not use Soy wax. Try other waxes at your own risk.</li><li>Rubber Bands</li><li>A pot and a melting pot to melt the candle wax</li><li>Candle wick that is strip shaped. DO NOT USE ROUND WICKS. (See the groove that will be made from the positive front mold. That is where the wick will fit. If the wick is too big or small, the wax will leak out from the head as it cools.)</li><li>A scale that can measure 1 gram increments</li></ul>Mold Instructions:<ul><li>Print all the parts "Imposter Wax Enclosure"</li><li>Insert the "Silicon Positive Mold - Front" into the Curing “Enclosure - Top”</li><li>Slide on the bottom to encase it. Make sure the positive mold is pressed securely to the back. (See the GIF)</li><li>Wrap in in 3-5 rubber bands so that it presses tightly onto the positive.</li><li>Mix your silicon mold material (Eyeball how much you think you'll need for one side, and then add about 20% more) Don't waste it! Shits expensive!</li><li>From about 1-2 feet above the mold, SLOWLY pour in the silicon liquid so that a TEENY TEENY stream is entering the enclosure and hitting the bottom.</li><li>Fill just near to the top, leave about 2-3mm from the top if possible.</li><li>Add a small small wedge under the base opposite the slit side of the enclosure, so that the entire assembly has a small (2-5 degrees) angle so that any trapped bubbles are stuck and rise out</li><li>Let it cure until very firm. Usually about 6-12 hours, depending on temp/humidity.</li><li>Extract the mold once cured, and repeat the same for the other positive side.</li></ul>Wax Pouring Instructions:<ul><li>Heat your wax to well past its melting point, but below 200 degrees, add any colors till you get it correct. (Hold off on scents until you are close to pouring)</li><li>Cut about 4-5 inches of wick</li><li>Warm the silicon molds with a hair blow dryer or a dehydrator until the molds are warmish.</li><li>Lay the cut wick into the groove on the Positive - Front mold and through the base large hole.</li><li>Pair the Rear molt to the Front. Gently pull the wick back and forth from both sides so that the wick settles into the groove.</li><li>Enclose the molds with the 3d printed Wax Enclosures. Put rubber bands around both the top and bottom. Thicker rubber bands work well. Should be a little hard to get around the enclosure.</li><li>Optional: Scent your wax now.</li><li>Pour the wax into the hole slowly till it overflows the top.</li><li>You will see shrinkage happening in about 30sec - 1minute. Keep pouring to make sure that the wax is full at the top. NOTE: The goal is to keep HOT wax entering the voids as the wax cools, so that the HOT wax melts and gets sucked into the cooling/shrinking areas. This helps keep empty pockets from forming around the feet and butt.</li><li>Once the top has solidified and you can not pour anymore wax in, let cool for about 3-4 hours. Do not put in the fridge or freezer.</li><li>Cut off the butt stem with a sharp razor blade.</li><li>ENJOY!</li></ul><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/54760/2023-09-30_d3a6f1d1a355e8.gif"></figure>&nbsp;

Among Us! Candle Kit

candle molders

soukup273

Candle holder for a candle in a quiet home. suitable for Christmas eveningsdo not let the candle burn to the end, it could melt the plastic holder. printed on 2 perimeters, 5% fill

Halloween

tpu

mothers day

butterfly

maintenance

office

easter

light box

saves

jibbitz

hue forge

Halloween

jars

coasters

ashtray

candle molders

everyday things

dog

valentine's Day