alessandro.93.fra

Sph3raLab

Immerse yourself in the world of 3D digitization with our DIY 3D Scanner, powered by the capabilities of Arduino Uno and the 28BYJ-48 stepper motor alongside the reliable ULN2003A control board.The design includes a 28BYJ-48 stepper motor controlled by the ULN2003A board via Arduino Uno. This configuration allows your 3D scanner to feature a turntable, thanks to its built-in gear, enabling precise scanning. Additionally, you can enhance your experience by incorporating a distance sensor to further improve scanning depth. The data captured by the scanner can be easily processed through photogrammetry software, enabling you to create detailed 3D models.&nbsp;Update 19-03-2024:updated hole for usb-c connector with bigger one&nbsp;Key Features:<ul><li>Precision and Control: The 28BYJ-48 stepper motor provides precise step control, enabling detailed and accurate scanning of 3D objects. The ULN2003A control board simplifies the interfacing, ensuring smooth and reliable operation.</li><li>Ease of Use: Utilizing Arduino Uno as the project's core makes the interface and programming accessible even for beginners. Our detailed guide will walk you through each step, from assembly to usage.</li><li>Modular Design: The project is designed with a modular approach, allowing for customizations and future upgrades. Add sensors, hardware improvements, or implement new features to tailor the scanner to your specific needs.</li><li>Open-Source Software: We release the source code of the software, which you can find attached. This code can be directly uploaded to Arduino by copying the content from the provided text file and pasting it into the dedicated IDE. Feel free to make any adjustments or let me know if there's anything else you'd like to add!</li></ul> The design includes a 28BYJ-48 stepper motor controlled by the ULN2003A board via Arduino Uno. This configuration allows your 3D scanner to feature a turntable, thanks to its built-in gear, enabling precise scanning. Additionally, you can enhance your experience by incorporating a distance sensor to further improve scanning depth. The data captured by the scanner can be easily processed through photogrammetry software, enabling you to create detailed 3D models.

Scanner 3D & Turntable

scan

Jpesce

Simple wallmount bracket for SwitchBot W3400010&nbsp;printed with Bamboo PetG-CF

wall holder for Switchbot Indoor/outdoor Thermo hygrometer W3400010

elettronica

Toys_And_Stuff

Made this for holding business cards on the side of my photo booth.It's mounted with three screws

Business Card Holder

nolo

2emme3dlab

Print at 100% infill with a layer height of 0.08mm with a base layer of 0.16mm&nbsp;Filaments Used: PLA Eryone Black Transmission Distance: 0.3 PLA Eryone Blue Transmission Distance: 5 PLA Eryone White Transmission Distance: 6&nbsp;Swap Instructions: Start with Black At layer #7 (0.64mm) swap to Blue At layer #14 (1.2mm) swap to White for the rest.

Harry Potter HueForge

lrcustoms

PlayStation lamp for desktop or wall mount. &nbsp;The Bambu profile include all the versions that are the followings: <ol><li>Wall mount with hole for led connection. </li><li>Wall mount without hole for led/voltage connection (you can add on slicer as your need instruction below). </li><li>Desktop without hole(you can add on slicer as your need instruction below). </li><li>Desktop with hole for led/voltage connection. </li></ol>&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:79.46%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000085323/design/2023-12-06_70ef46eaec184.png"></figure>&nbsp;The version that does not have holes is because if you like to add it in other place or with different form. It can be done on Bambu slicer as follows if you don’t know already. &nbsp;Add hole to a part for voltage/led connection: <ol><li>Right click and select add modifier. </li></ol>&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000085323/design/2023-12-06_0356f7bd677f98.png">&nbsp;2. You can change the size and form of the modifier as regular model. &nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000085323/design/2023-12-06_d694bf3f2dfe.png">&nbsp;3. After placing it on the location that you want the hole and with the size that you like, select both parts (the “body” and the added modifier) to make the cut. &nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000085323/design/2023-12-06_207badf7b5a638.png">&nbsp;4. After performing the “cut” or hole you can delate the modifier and the hole for voltage/led connection will be ready. &nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000085323/design/2023-12-06_769095615c43.png">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;I did it with a 10 mm hole for add a connector and just when I plug the voltage adapter the light work. &nbsp;&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000085323/design/2023-12-06_2d8676ae5ce81.jpg">&nbsp;&nbsp; If have any question or need any help, please feel free to leave a comment or contact us. If you like can follow us on Instagram and YouTube for more. &nbsp;Instagram: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.instagram.com/lrcustoms/?hl=es" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.instagram.com/lrcustoms/?hl=es</a>Youtube: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC3_c6fH_6cQuHi-jA_igONQ" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC3_c6fH_6cQuHi-jA_igONQ</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;

Play Station Lamp - Desktop and wall mount 

play

Lord Bouli

When I bought a set of 6 Ikea SKÅDIS boards and was putting them up on the wall I wanted something to allign them perfectly. So I took my calipers, took some measurements and opend fusion 360.First I made the “mini”s so the boards could be connected and aligned. Then when I installed them I missed the support of the wall so I quicly made the “riser”s to fil the (17mm) gap.<figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/479180/rich_content/745ad98a-7138-4827-91c4-144e299776cb/minis-and-board-design.jpg#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%22f3655efa-228c-4885-bcf3-4f9c5cead64b%22%2C%22w%22%3A4028%2C%22h%22%3A1803%7D"></figure>&nbsp;But not wanted to print out two pieces and sticking them together I made the “full” models.Printed them out and put them on the back.&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/479180/rich_content/dc69859f-d43d-405f-b697-d42943c2cef8/4-board-connect.jpg#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%228fbace0d-2e01-4bf5-833d-25e802f00314%22%2C%22w%22%3A2781%2C%22h%22%3A2964%7D"></figure>Result of “Skadis connect 4 boards full”.&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/479180/rich_content/2da8a229-7c0f-4226-87c7-c80f311d817d/2-board-side-connect.jpg#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%22c0b38cd6-d05f-4411-9dc5-b68f38e545b5%22%2C%22w%22%3A1580%2C%22h%22%3A2718%7D"></figure>Result of “Skadis connect 2 boards right-left side full”&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/479180/rich_content/c270dbae-6e81-4f04-b701-996e9e84d437/2-board-up-down-connect.jpg#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%2230a5c9e3-fc53-4a21-9f91-54fd42761821%22%2C%22w%22%3A3220%2C%22h%22%3A1926%7D"></figure>Result of “Skadis connect 2 boards up-down side full”&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/479180/rich_content/e5cf7276-62fe-406b-996b-0df5399109b0/corner.jpg#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%225ffb83e6-b990-4ecf-9260-15291112ea35%22%2C%22w%22%3A1781%2C%22h%22%3A1987%7D"></figure>Result of “Skadis connect 1 board corner bottom-right + top-left full” (you need 2 of these and 2 of “Skadis connect 1 board corner bottom-left + top-right full”.&nbsp;End result:<figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/479180/rich_content/0857fc44-1fcc-47c2-827f-a3d1dd0b235f/end-result.jpg#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%22dbdcb3c5-8d64-41d0-ac32-25d0cf05e4e4%22%2C%22w%22%3A3175%2C%22h%22%3A2873%7D"></figure>The additional benefit is you lose the lower screw holes so it looks (IMHO) visualy better (and when adding “<a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/277387-ikea-skadis-screw-cap" rel="nofollow noopener">IKEA Skadis Screw Cap</a>” by <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@ledsi_351866" rel="nofollow noopener">@ledsi_351866</a> it's even better.&nbsp;I uploaded all models in case people want them but standard you only need the “full” files. I used the original metal back plate/rail to secure them to the wall but if you got a flat surface on your wall you can probably use good double sided (nano) tape to secure the board connects to the wall (and also use it to connect connects to the boards). Havent tested this myself tho!&nbsp;And for all things you havent made yourself (including these), use at your own risk!

Skadis connect 4 boards mini

skadis

3Deen-Druck

Hello folks,&nbsp;you got a new printer and spent all your money on it, but where to put it? Don't get an ikea lack table they said, it's too unstable they said. &nbsp;Bullshit!&nbsp;You're getting actually a fine stable table, which is a lot stronger than you thought, for your bucks. Just a few modifications, and soon you can jump on it without a problem. (Disclaimer: Please don't try this at home, this stunt should be only performed by trained professionals.)&nbsp;Well, here you get a set of everything you need, actually a tad stronger than it was already.&nbsp;Screws needed: 88x 4,5x20mm&nbsp;And after you got more metal than wood, you can put your stuff on it and be happy.&nbsp;Example:I got one reinforced lack table, ontop a 15kg concrete plate and the p1p printer, stacked another ikea lack on it with a full filled ams (4x 1kg), stacked a second ikea lack on it to store my other filament (15x1kg). So you get a sense of whats holding up.&nbsp;-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Please don't forget to LIKE👍, Comment ✍ and RATE ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ - it would be awesome! Thanks❣

Ikea Lack Table ReReReinforced - Tankbuild

ikea lack

brody.bolanos

Bambu Lab P1P Cable Chain Assembly (1/9/2023)Designed a few parts needed to attach a cable chain, similar to the one seen on the X1. The chain helps keep the USB cable and PTFE tube completely inside the P1P, which is needed if you're going to use a covered top like the glass lid on the X1, also just like the way it looks!<blockquote><h3>Latest Update</h3></blockquote>All previous updates will be posted at the bottom. Update (5/9/2023)*Updated File - Cable_Chain_Frame_Adapter_Front_2C to 3C<ul><li>Added a 2 degree incline to the chain, which should help further prevent sagging. </li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/244401/2023-09-27_m2rkyvvgfhy4.png"></figure><blockquote><h3>Files</h3></blockquote>Main Files<ol><li>Cable_Chain_Frame_Adapter_Front_3C </li><li>Cable_Chain_Frame_Adapter_Rear_2D </li><li>Cable_Chain_PTFE_Clip_2B </li><li>Cable_Chain_Housing_Adapter_4A </li><li>USB_Cable_Cover_3E</li></ol>Alternative Files<ol><li>Cable_Chain_Frame_Adapter_Front_Inserts<ul><li>Uses qty 2, 5x3 mm inserts</li></ul></li><li>USB_Cable_Cover_Hygrometer<ul><li>Hygrometer - <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GNMKYCZ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GNMKYCZ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details</a></li><li>Most of the Amazon ones are the same, as long as the dimensions are 1.89" x 1.13" / 48mm x 28.6mm</li></ul></li></ol>Print File<ul><li>Cable Chain Build Plate</li></ul><blockquote><h3>Additional Parts</h3></blockquote><ul><li>Qty 1 : 10x11 Cable Chain - <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QLGWQ1L?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QLGWQ1L?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details</a><ul><li>Not needed if using printable version <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/23659" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/23659</a> </li></ul></li><li>Qty 6 : M3*6 (M3*4 should also work)<ul><li>If using the Hygrometer, you'll only need qty 5</li></ul></li></ul><blockquote><h3>Print Orientation</h3></blockquote><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/244401/2023-09-27_3jiot00vcj41.png"></figure>-Picture doesn't reflect current model numbers, use the letter to identify what is what. <blockquote><h3>Print Settings</h3></blockquote>DO NOT USE PLA, IT WILL BREAK. Please use PETG, ASA, PLA+ , etc. I used Polylite Pro PLA+, eSun PLA+, Overture PETGQuality<ul><li>Please see build plate file. </li></ul>Support <ul><li>Please see build plate file. </li></ul>Other<ul><li>Bed adhesion - use brim if you're having adhesion issues</li></ul>* To remove the supports for 4A, grab the bottom of the support that printed on the bed and pull it outwards and upwards, you'll need to use some force but it wont break anything. &nbsp;<blockquote><h3>Assembly</h3></blockquote><ul><li>Remove the tube anchor and PTFE tube ( I'm not using the tube anchor anymore). <a target="_blank" href="https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/p1/maintenance/tube-anchor-assembly" rel="nofollow noopener">https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/p1/maintenance/tube-anchor-assembly</a> <a target="_blank" href="https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/p1/maintenance/ptfe-tube" rel="nofollow noopener">https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/p1/maintenance/ptfe-tube</a></li><li>Remove the USB cable rubber bushing that holds the cable in place on the housing. <a target="_blank" href="https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/p1/maintenance/toolhead-housing" rel="nofollow noopener">https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/p1/maintenance/toolhead-housing</a> <ul><li>There's no actually way to remove it unless you want the cut it off so I just slid it to the other side of the cable </li></ul></li></ul>&nbsp;<ul><li> 6 x M3*6 </li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:75%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/244401/2023-09-27_fjmch9qxymva.png"></figure>&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:75%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/244401/2023-09-27_zp873er73fe2.png"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:75%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/244401/2023-09-27_u23hvj1o37se.png"></figure><ul><li>The cable chain should be 22 links .</li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:75%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/244401/2023-09-27_sukfy4vpwit0.png"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:75%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/244401/2023-09-27_lsn4q05vga59.png"></figure>&nbsp;<ul><li>Push the PTFE tube though the opening and out the back side & re-insert it back into the front housing <ul><li>I have about 2in of the tube sticking out past the part. </li></ul></li><li>Insert the chain housing adapter 4A into place<ul><li>Step 5 & 8 should clarify how to do this , simply press it into place . <a target="_blank" href="https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/maintenance/replace-typec-cable" rel="nofollow noopener">https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/maintenance/replace-typec-cable</a></li><li>The little side brackets face outwards </li></ul></li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:75%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/244401/2023-09-27_r2cb20s2ndta.png"></figure><ul><li>Attach the male end of the chain to 4A, open all the side brackets on the chain and put the cable in, close it up. </li><li>Snap 2B ( the clip) onto one of the chain links and push the PTFE tube in ( I have it on the 11th link) . <ul><li>I purposefully left the clip wider then the tube. During some testing it definitely seemed like the tube needed to be free of constraints ( especially in back right corner of the frame). The fit is tight as the clip needs to stay in place. I clipped it on horizontally then rotated it vertically </li></ul></li></ul>&nbsp;<ul><li>Lastly, attached 3E</li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:75%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/244401/2023-09-27_gzcr6mifrv0a.png"></figure><h3> </h3><h4>Make sure to recalibrate after the chain is installed. </h4>&nbsp;<h4>Alternative location for the hygrometer</h4><ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/23650#profileId-22261" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/23650#profileId-22261</a> </li></ul><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/244401/2023-09-27_823cer655uxs.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;If you like my designs and want to say thanks, you can buy me a coffee and help fund the filaments I need for prototyping. A donation of any amount to <a target="_blank" href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/brodyB" rel="nofollow noopener">Buy Me a Coffee</a> or <a target="_blank" href="https://paypal.me/brodyb10?country.x=US&locale.x=en_US" rel="nofollow noopener">PayPal</a> would be greatly appreciated!&nbsp;As always, given different printing environments, filaments, etc., prints may not work perfectly for everyone. If you are having issues please message or comment and I will try my best to resolve the issue.&nbsp;<blockquote><h3>Previous Updates</h3></blockquote>Update (4/25/2023)*Added file - USB_Cable_Cover_Hygrometer<ul><li>Per @xXSMOGXx recommendation I added a cable cover version that can hold a hygrometer<ul><li>Hygrometer - <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GNMKYCZ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GNMKYCZ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details</a></li><li>Most of the Amazon ones are the same, as long as the dimensions are 1.89" x 1.13" / 48mm x 28.6mm</li></ul></li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:24.86%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/244401/2023-09-27_nyboec1rn79g.jpg"></figure>Update (3/29/2023)*Updated file - Cable_Chain_PTFE_Clip_1B to 2B<ul><li>Shortened the height of the loop.<ul><li>Looked like it was getting to close to the underside of the frame.</li></ul></li><li>Improved fitment with chain.</li></ul>Update (2/8/2023)*Updated file - Cable_Chain_Frame_Adapter_Front_1D to 2D<ul><li>Simplified mounting hardware needed ( 6 M3x6).</li><li>Angled PTFE tube upwards slightly to help lift the chain. </li><li>Added a bottom support for the chain, big improvement on any sagging. <ul><li>See 2nd picture, chain stays horizontal when fully looped 180 degrees. No sagging.</li></ul></li><li>Integrated the chain mounting link into part 2D.</li><li>All screw locations are on the back now, no nuts or washers. Will be posting a version with threaded inserts soon.</li></ul>*Updated file - Cable_Chain_Frame_Adapter_Rear_1C to 2C<ul><li>Angled the PTFE tube downwards slightly, more direct path to the spool.</li></ul>*Updated file - Cable_Chain_Housing_Adapter_3A to Cable_Chain_Housing_Adapter_4A. <ul><li>Added strength, cleaner print. </li></ul>Revised instructionsUpdate (1/31/2023)*Updated file - USB_Cable_Cover_2E to USB_Cable_Cover_3E<ul><li>Updated sizing to fit my printable p1p cable drag chain design. </li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/385282-bambu-lab-p1p-printable-cable-drag-chain" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.printables.com/model/385282-bambu-lab-p1p-printable-cable-drag-chain</a> </li></ul>Update (1/24/2023)*Updated file - Cable_Chain_Housing_Adapter_2A to Cable_Chain_Housing_Adapter_3A. <ul><li>Reworked the tolerances to be a tighter fit between the printhead and adapter. Substantial improvement over 2A as it reduces sag in the chain, almost none now. Because the tolerances are tighter, there is a small “break in” period ( ~30 minute print) for the part to loosen and rotate more freely. </li><li>Added additional support to keep the chain bending radius at 18mm. “They are designed for specific bends and such as to not harm the cable, if you design a chain wrong it could damage the cable more than not using one at all.” . 2A included this but I added another stop which subsequently increased the rigidity of the part.</li><li>Increased the rings thickness slightly for additional strength and added small groves for easier assembly / removal of the chain.</li></ul>*Updated file - USB_Cable_Cover_1E to USB_Cable_Cover_2E<ul><li>Users were stating the fit was unessecerally tight so I reworked it to go into place easier.</li></ul>*Updated print settings for P1P OTA version 01.01.01.00Update (1/11/2023)*Updated file - Cable_Chain_Housing_Adapter_1A to Cable_Chain_Housing_Adapter_2A. <ul><li>Previously file 1A was able to rotate freely at both connection points. File 2A corrects this by adding a bend radius constraint of 18mm between itself and the cable chain. Without this the cable could overbend. </li></ul>Added file - USB_Cable_Cover_1E<ul><li>Covers the cable chain connection point to the frame and USB cable.</li></ul>Added file - Cable_Chain_Frame_Adapter_Inserts<ul><li>Alternate version of 1D that uses threaded inserts instead of washers/nuts.<ul><li>M3 x 3 x 5mm - <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D683Q26?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D683Q26?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details</a> <ul><li>Qty: 7</li></ul></li><li>M2 x 4 x 3.5mm - <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B094H1SRK4?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/dp/B094H1SRK4?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1</a> <ul><li>Qty: 2 (optional)</li></ul></li></ul></li></ul>

Bambu Lab P1P Cable Drag Chain Assembly - 5/9 Updated

Jochen R.

Holder for up to two scalpels and 6 blade replacement kits

Ikea Skadis Scalpel Holder

ikea skadis

laisch

<blockquote>Info: The wrench fits for anglegrinder nuts with 35mm hole circle diameter. But like some comments mention there are also other types of nuts with 28 or 20 mm hole distance. Check your dimensions before you print it</blockquote><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:32.61%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/165220/2023-11-12_c39e11d978104.png"></figure> Found this Idea in the video of pocket83 and had to do a 3D printed version of it<figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SoMkAkV62v0"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/SoMkAkV62v0" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure>The model prints without supports if you use 0.2mm layerheight.&nbsp;For furhter hardware you need at least 2 M5x20mm hex nut screws. You can screw them directly in to the model. If the fit is too tight you can tap the holes before screwing the screws in.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/165220/2023-11-03_tkq9czc274jr.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;

Quicky (Angle grinder wrench)

da fare

JC_Offroad (AKA - JeeperJC)

I created a 1x5 gridfinity blade holder for my setup and thought I would share. I really liked the design and style of the Babo scraper holder, so I remixed it and made it into a 1x5 gridfinity and created holders for the replaceable blades as well.