alejandro96villalobos

NxtGnPrtHub

English: Over the years, the connectors on the caps for the water tank in cars break. You can now print a new cap here. The opening of the ring has a diameter of 52mm, the same applies to the inner ring of the lid. The outer ring of the lid has a diameter of 50mm.Please use PETG as printing material, with other materials the connector will break. 100% infill is necessary. Do you need the cap in a smaller format? No problem, because you can easily scale the file in BambuStudio! Deutsch: Bei den Kappen für den Wasserbehälter beim Auto brechen über die Jahre immer mal die Verbinder.Hier können Sie sich jetzt eine neue Kappe drucken. Die Öffnung des Rings hat einen Durchmesser von 52mm, das gleiche gilt für für den Innenring des Deckels. Der Außenring des Deckels hat einen Durchmesser von 50mm.Nutzen Sie bitte PETG als Druckmaterial, bei anderen Materialien bricht der Verbinder. Ein Infill von 100% ist unbedingt notwendig. Sie benötigen die Kappe in einem kleineren Format? Kein Problem, denn Sie können die Datei problemlos im BambuStudio skalieren!

Car water cap (Universal)

autos

Ian Foulds

This is corner adaptor for building a printer enclosure using 1" aluminum extrusion. It should be printed on its flattened corner so that all three legs are of equal strength and no supports are necessary. There is an integrated pillar support on the inside that adds a bit of strength and allows it to be supportless.The wall thickness is 3mm for strength, and it should also allow scaling for different extrusion sizes.I have also added a couple of T joints as requested. I haven't personally tested them yet.<h3>Print Settings</h3>Printer Brand:CrealityPrinter: Ender 5Rafts:NoSupports: NoFilament: Overature PETG&nbsp;&nbsp;Category: Hobby

1"  Square Aluminum Extrusion Corner (No Supports)

TAlLLER

Damiano

Please give me a thumbs up 👍🏻 if you like this, even if you don't download this - it’ll help more people discover this model. Thanks so much ! Hi ! I made this micro SD cards slot cover for Bambu Lab P1S / P1P because I don't want to have dust in my slot (made for micro SD card which came with printer). I made two versions - plain one and signed “SD” one. You can choose what You want ! IMPORTANT ! My print profile is made that cover fits like a glove on card thickness about 1,1 mm - You must use a little bit force to put it on micro SD card. You must scale it if Your card have another thickness. After printing get off the micro SD card from the slot and put on cover on the card - it should fit smoothly - if don't scale it. Feel free to comment and if You like it please click “Like” button. If You like my model You can buy me a coffee ---> <a target="_blank" href="https://paypal.me/DamianS0k0l" rel="nofollow noopener">https://paypal.me/DamianS0k0l</a>

Bambu Lab P1S P1P dust cover micro SD card slot cover slot plug accessories

BAMBU LAB UPDATE

Ryxxi_makes

I made some enclosures for the arduino and the stepper driver that can be mounted onto the ikea bondis clock&nbsp;&nbsp;Specs of the arduino board i Used:&nbsp;<h4>38 Pin ESP32 CP2102 USB-C - Key Features</h4><ul><li>Voltage: 3.3V</li><li>Chip: ESP32 CP2102</li><li>Type C USB interface</li><li>Wireless connectivity: Wi-Fi & Bluetooth 4.2</li><li>Integrated flash memory: 4MB</li></ul>

Arduino ESP32 and ULN2003 motor driver Case For wandering hour clock with 28BYJ-48 unipolar stepper

Electric

PProyects

AU3D

This bracket is designed for horizontal Kallax shelves (3x2, 4x1, 2x1, etc.), providing side access to the screws connecting the top and side panels. It is not suitable for vertically positioned Kallax units (2x3, 1x4, 1x2, etc.).<h3>Print instructions:</h3><ol><li>For each Skadis board you intend to mount, print a left and right bracket.</li><li>Use 100% infill for best results.</li><li>Supports aren't required, but you may need to refine the nut slot slightly before insertion.</li><li>Opt for materials known for strong layer adhesion. For reference, I used Jayo PLA+ white with a layer height of 0.2mm.</li></ol><h3>Assembly:</h3>For each bracket, insert an M4 nut into its slot. Depending on your printer's accuracy, some force might be required to ensure a snug fit.<h3>Installation:</h3><ol><li>From your Kallax, remove one long screw that connects the side to the top. This screw will be used to secure the bracket to the Kallax side.</li><li>When attaching the bracket, ensure the smaller screw hole points toward the center of the side panel.</li><li>(Optional) To prevent bracket rotation, you can:<ul><li>Add an M4 wood screw.</li><li>Use double-sided tape. From my experience, this step is often unnecessary. Once the Skadis board is in place, the setup becomes notably rigid.</li></ul></li><li>Repeat the process for the opposite side.</li><li>Secure the Skadis board using its original screw knobs. Tightening them adds to the overall sturdiness of the setup.</li></ol><h3>Skadis Collection</h3>I am constantly developing more IKEA Skadis attachments. Check out my <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/2942852598/collections/188108" rel="nofollow noopener">IKEA Skadis Collection here</a>.

IKEA Skadis-Kallax Side Mount Bracket

SKADIS

wuguigui

<h2>Summary</h2>I designed a 3D print clip without spring, the separated jaw mouth could be optionally chosen according to different usage.This design had another important function is to put pressure on the jaw mouth constantly, so it will not be loose like other 3D print clips.I recommend PETG as the filament because it has better toughness, not bad when using PLA+. But I haven't tried ABS yet, someone could help to do it.If you like it, please click "like“ it:)Thank you!A new one was designed based on this clip, with suction cup: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/12904" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/12904</a><h2>Print Settings</h2>Printer: snapmaker 2.0 A250 Rafts: No&nbsp;Supports: No Resolution: 0.2&nbsp;Infill: 60% Filament: <a target="_blank" href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&field-keywords=snapmaker+PETG+or+PLA%2B" rel="nofollow noopener"> snapmaker PETG or PLA+ </a> any

Clip

brody.bolanos

Bambu Lab P1P Printable Cable Drag ChainI created a printable cable chain for the p1p as not everyone has access to the cable chain from Amazon that I linked in my other design <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/23653" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/23653</a> . There were a few things that I wanted to meet or exceed from the store bought design including a reduction in sagging and lighter weight. <ul><li>Chain has a minimum bending radius of 18mm, making sure the wire doesn't get over bent.</li><li>When fully extended ( side with the latches face down) the chain has a slight curve, meaning it wont lay completely flat. This is intentional to make sure the chain wont accidently bend the opposite way.</li><li>Each of my links weigh 1.963g and the cable chain links from amazon weigh 2.160g. </li><li>Below you can see the difference in sagging with the chains fully extended.</li></ul>Please use <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/23653" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/23653</a> for the rest of the instructions and print files for the complete assembly. &nbsp;This is a 3d printed chain with a lot of moving parts, overtime tolerances will loosen and it will start to wear down. I haven't had any issues so far but the Amazon chain is still a better option overall when it comes to durability and smoothness. <figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/244611/2023-09-27_j3urpsw5m7fl.jpg"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/244611/2023-09-27_0djvy4hh02bh.jpg"></figure><blockquote><h3>Files</h3></blockquote>Main Files<ol><li>Chain Link Latch</li><li>Chain Link Latch PTFE Clip</li><li>Chain Link 0.0</li></ol>Alternative Files<ol><li>Chain Link -0.02</li><li>Chain Link +0.02</li></ol>Print Files<ol><li>Printable Cable Drag Chain Assembly</li><li>Printable Cable Drag Chain Test Print</li></ol><blockquote><h3>Parts/BOM</h3></blockquote><ul><li>22 Chain Link Latch</li><li>22 Chain Link 0.0</li><li>1-3 Chain Link Latch PTFE Clip ( I used one on the 11th link)</li></ul><blockquote><h3>Print Orientation</h3></blockquote><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/244611/2023-09-27_dwzfge3tu4g9.png"></figure><ul><li>The PLA/+ printing preset for cooling uses the Aux fan, I don't know how much it effects the print as the fan blows from one side but I kept all the male sides of the links facing towards the fan. </li></ul><blockquote><h3>Print Setting</h3></blockquote>Filament Tested - eSun PLA+, Bambu Tough, Polylite PLA Pro (dried and kept around 20%RH). DO NOT USE PLA, IT WILL BREAK<ul><li>See print file</li></ul>Supports<ul><li>None</li></ul><blockquote><h3>Before You Print</h3></blockquote>In the Files section you might have seen two alternatives Chain Link Files.<ol><li>Chain Link Final -0.02</li><li>Chain Link Final +0.02</li></ol>These alternative files change the hole sizing slightly in the cable links. 0.0 worked perfectly when using PLA + but when I switched over to PETG I had to tighten the tolerances, making the hole smaller, hence the +0.02 file. Alternatively, -0.02 will expand the hole . More under “Assembly” below.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/244611/2023-09-27_2n9xykfuj8sc.png"></figure><blockquote><h3>PETG Note</h3></blockquote><ul><li>It seems like a hit or miss with PETG, as a small percentage of users couldn't get good prints ( including me). If you are having issues with the tolerances being too lose please comment or message me and I will send you + 0.03/0.04 files. </li></ul><blockquote><h3>Assembly</h3></blockquote><ul><li>Print Printable Cable Drag Chain Test Print</li><li>Once you've printed the test file, press the matching links into place, in total 3 small chains consisting of (0,0,0) (+.02,+.02,+.02) (-.02,-.02,-.02) . It's kind of hard but a little easier if you slide the links together along the chamfer on each cylinder. </li></ul><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/244611/2023-09-27_g6fawy05urym.png"></figure><ul><li>Next snap the latches into place</li></ul><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/244611/2023-09-27_11ru8ghqjsnh.png"></figure><ul><li>What you're looking for initially is a snug fit, after rotating the pieces back and forth a handful of times they'll loosen up and you should be able to figure out which sizing is correct. There should be very little movement (almost none) when wiggling the links in any other direction other then rotating. If you have PLA + I would suggest doing the test print in that ( pla should work fine for this but the pieces will definitely break ) reasoning being I know PLA + gives a good fit and even you you want to print in something else, it'll help you get a good idea of how it should feel. </li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/244611/2023-09-27_a9kvyeohlog5.jpg"></figure><ul><li>Once you've figured this out, use the file Printable Cable Drag Chain Assembly ( which is sized at 0.0) to print out 22 links, 22 latches, and 1 PTFE latch ( or more ). Or use another sizing!</li></ul><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/244611/2023-09-27_qxbgr6led8o5.png"></figure><h3> </h3><h3>Make sure to recalibrate after the chain is installed. </h3>&nbsp;<blockquote><h3>Tips</h3></blockquote><ul><li>I only used 21 latches including the PTFE latch, I forwent the first latch on the link (the side closest to the frame) </li><li>To remove the latches, insert a small flat head screwdriver and twist. </li></ul><h4>Be careful where you place the PTFE clips, one in the middle is enough. Additional locations can cause the PTFE tube to put unwanted force on the chain.</h4>&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/244611/2023-09-27_jdfxwg6vkfon.jpg"></figure><h3>Please use <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/23653" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/23653</a> for the rest of the instructions and print files for the complete assembly. </h3>&nbsp;If you like my designs and want to say thanks, you can buy me a coffee and help fund the filaments I need for prototyping. A donation of any amount to <a target="_blank" href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/brodyB" rel="nofollow noopener">Buy Me a Coffee</a> or <a target="_blank" href="https://paypal.me/brodyb10?country.x=US&locale.x=en_US" rel="nofollow noopener">PayPal</a> would be greatly appreciated!&nbsp;<h3>As always, given different printing environments, filaments, etc., prints may not work perfectly for everyone. If you are having issues please message or comment and I will try my best to resolve the issue.</h3>