Zack M

Bambu Lab

This seasonal model has 113 parts, and by default prints in 6 colors that lay down on 9 separate plates. Once upon a time, a project of such scale demanded a certain amount of courage to start preparing and slicing, let alone print it. Now, with Bambu Lab's hardware and software, you can finish the print within two days and customize the colors to your liking. You can even customize the text and the logo!&nbsp;In the Assembly view mode, you can simply choose a part and press the number of the filament to color that part. We left blank plate in the model so you can type in your own text.<figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=88gXxk9oWPg&t=29s"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/88gXxk9oWPg?start=29" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure>

Bambu Christmas Cabin

Christmas

Tridense

This bust of Hercules originates from the Farnese type.The Farnese Hercules is a colossal marble statue, most likely a Roman copy of a much older Greek bronze from the fourth centuy BC. The enlarged version, now the most famed, was made for the Baths of Caracalla in Rome (dedicated in 216 AD) where the statue was recovered in 1546 and is now on display inthe Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Naples. The sculpture depicts a muscular, yet weary, Hercules leaning on his club, which has the skin of the Nemean lion draped over it. In myths about Hercules, killing the lion was his first task. He has just perfomed one of the last of The Twelve Labours, which is suggested by the apples of the Hesperides he holds behind his back.The type was well known in antiquity, and among many other versions a Hellenistic or Roman bronze reduction, found at Foligno is in the Musée du Louvre. A small Roman marble copy can e seen in the Museum of the Ancient Agora, Athens.

Bust of the Farnese Hercules

trav

Ukdavewood

Update 2/2/24Added Extra profile containing optional underwater parts and a stand - which can be bolted on the bottom with 3xM4 x 15mm Cap head screws.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Update 13/2/24Updated the underwater print profile to move the section breaks so that they line  up with the main waterline model.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/530902/2024-02-13_4007ddc013b068.jpeg"></figure>Also doubled up  the tiny azipod motor parts - as it doesn't add much to print time and will then give some spares in case of breakages or printing issues.&nbsp;Also slightly improved the adaptive layer height settings.&nbsp;&nbsp;Update 4/1/24.I have added the underwater hull part of this ship to my 1:1000 scale version here<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/15006#profileId-14776" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/15006#profileId-14776</a>&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:29.97%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/530902/2024-01-04_4a0113e166b658.jpg"></figure>If there is any interest in a version scaled for this 1:500 version please let me know via the comments I will create one.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Scaled at 1:500 and mutli coloured - this model is multi plate, quite large and requires a lot of time to print.It is recommened that people try one of the 1:1000 or 1:1250 version first - which print without supports on a single plate.&nbsp;Updated 31/12/23New version of the Dome on deck18 added as a 2nd + 3rd plate on the same print profile as was uploaded on 21/12&nbsp;Updated 21/12/23Alternative version of deck 8 included in seperate profile - to avoid issues with lighting channel showing through very thin deck layer.&nbsp;Updated 9/10/23:Corrected a problem with a duplicate part from deck 15 being present and one part from deck 14 being missing.See Plate 14.&nbsp;Updated 30/9/23:Corrected a problem with the port side of the hull section not slicing correctly.&nbsp;Also note that since releasing these complex multi part 1:500 ship models I have found that the BL printers are capable of printing these models quite well at a 1:1000 scale on a single plate. Seperate entries in Makerworld have been created for the 1:1000 versions.&nbsp;&nbsp;Update: 8/9/23:A new version of the model has just been updated that addresses points 2,3,4 & 5 below.&nbsp;&nbsp;Update: 18/8/23Following feedback from the 2 successful end user prints of this model I am planning to make the following updates:<ol><li>Enhance the build instructions - I have already made some updates to bring these instructions in line with the slightly more detailed ones on printables.</li><li>Thicken up some of the more fragile top decks - that are quite difficult to remove from anything other than a cooled down textured sheet</li><li>Change the settings in the build files to increase the use of brims - to avoid corner lift off</li><li>Include built in part numbering on the main deck parts.</li><li>Provide a version of the centre hull section with slightly wider tollerances - to make it easier to push parts together</li><li>Provide simpler smaller scale versions (1:1000) of this ship for single plate, single colour and multi colour printing.</li></ol>&nbsp;Third ship in a series of Seven 1:500 scale Models of P&O Cruise Ships - Iona - for personal use only.&nbsp;Iona is the largest P&O Cruise Ship currently in service.&nbsp;Designed for multi colour printing on a Bambu Lab X1C or P1P with 8 Colours (2 x AMS).&nbsp;STL files not available individually as there are too many.Designed using Fusion 360.Model is approximately 3 build plates long - so needs to be printed in separate sections which are slotted together at deck level, then each deck is bolted together using M4 Cap Head Screws.Printing will take well over 60 hrs in total - in separate plates which average about 2 hrs printing time each - but some of the more complicated plates take in excess of 13 hours to print.&nbsp;For reference here are the filament colours I have been using in order of quantity - with a best guess at Bambu Lab equivalentseSUN PLA+ Filament 1.75mm, PLA Plus 3D Printer Filament Cold White eSUN PLA+ Silver SunLU PLA+ Blue SunLU PLA Red 1kg 1.75mm PLA 3D printer filament Printer - With coil (Gold Color) SUNLU 3D Printer Filament PLA+ Plus Grass Green Aldi Balco Blue 1kg SunLU PLA Yellow Bambu Lab Orange ICE Filaments ICEFIL1PLA104 PLA filament, 1.75mm, 0.75 kg, Barbaric Brown eSUN PLA BLACK  With the quantity of white being about 10x the rest.My best guess at equivalent Bambu Lab Filaments to these would be:Bambu Lab PLA Basic Jade White Bambu Lab PLA Silk Silver Bambu Lab PLA Basic Blue Bambu Lab PLA Basic Red Bambu Lab PLA Basic Bronze Bambu Lab PLA Basic Green Bambu Lab PLA Matt Ice Blue Bambu Lab PLA Basic Yellow Bambu Lab PLA Basic Orange Bambu Lab PLA Basic Brown Bambu Lab PLA Basic Black&nbsp;Around 22 M4x16 and 4 M4 x 10  &nbsp;Build instructions. (updated 18/8/23)&nbsp;<ol><li>Print plates in the order presented. Writing deck numbers onto printed parts can help with organisation. **</li><li>Recommend textured plate is used for most prints - especially those with only 1 layer in some parts - such as deck 19 Bow. Cool plate however useful for very long thicker prints - such as Hull if being able to pause prints overnight is a requirement. **</li><li>For the thicker hull sections the dovetail joints are quite tight so a small amount of trimming of the dovetails may be required to get the pieces to slot together.</li><li>On the stern section of the hull I have included some slight overlaps to stop corners from being round that will need to be trimmed off. **</li><li>It is recommended that a small hammer is used to gently tap the dovetail joints together - going slowly from side to side - until the sections are flat.</li><li>Completed decks can then be bolted together using the holes with slots for screw tops.</li><li>Lifeboats need to be slotted into deck 7 tabs - it may be necessary to slightly widen the slots in the lifeboats with a screwdriver.</li><li>The canopy on deck 19 also slots into some fairly tight holes - so again these might need to be prized open slightly with a small screwdriver</li></ol><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/530902/2023-08-18_a2c7dd1a41697.jpeg"></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;Model has only been printed once so far, and was re-sliced for this upload.Further details of the design and built process are available on the Bambu Labs forum AMS section.Details of this model will also be posted on<ol><li>The Bambu Lab Official Facebook Group</li><li>The P&O Facebook Group</li><li>The Ship Models Facebook Group</li></ol>&nbsp;This is a personal project. I have no connection to P&O Cruises or Carnival Corporation other than being a customer.This version is released under a CC Non Commercial No Derivatives license due the P&O Cruises branding.&nbsp;&nbsp;f360 ref: iona 5b Arvia V1 S500 v122. 30/9/23  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;

P&O Cruises Iona 1:500 Multi part

Awesome Prints

GuyH77

NOTICE: I have learnt a lot from this design. As a result I have created a new base ramp which is now released. This design is still valid and I will continue to maintain it. It serves it&#39;s purpose of the original designed goal. I designed this scoop to aid removal of larger debris that could interfere with the bed movement. My new design is an attempt to try and improve on the removal of very small bits of plastic. That is one criticism of this design. &nbsp;Alternative Design: Only tested by me so far: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/507985#profileId-423740" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/507985#profileId-423740</a>&nbsp; - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -&nbsp;A simple two part print that forms a ramp at the front of your Bambu Lab printer making it easier to scoop out any stray bits of plastic.&nbsp;I printed standing up with a brim. The reason for this orientation is to get a nice smooth wall and strong clips. Split the stl to objects.&nbsp;The two halves should slide together with a snug fit. The clips help locate the scoop in the base of your printer.

Christmas

trav

Awesome Prints

P1S Upgrades